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About rustred

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/22/1957

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  • Location
    westlock, ab can.
  • Interests
    collecting IHC stuff,auction sales.

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  1. and I suppose the stimulus money is in your socks cushioning the blow.
  2. I have 2 of those trucks with the 345 and they have a holy 2 bbl carb.
  3. 335 cid, so you need an engine from the WD9 tractor. better yet get an engine from the SUPER WD9, 600, 650, tractors and these are 350 cid engine and more powerful. approx. 15 more h.p. than the 335 engine.
  4. I have a 1953 TD14A and it is yellow. no sign of red and its original paint. my TD18 is yellow also original, 1948.
  5. the carb needs adjusting, running way too rich. its not even running smooth. should be purring like a baby kitten. set main fuel adjustment on bottom of carb to 3 turns out. set idle mixture screw to 1 turn out. start it and fine tune it. BUT you must set the timing first, as always with any tune up. it will start with 1/2 a revolution once things are set.
  6. just a bunch of idiots out there that have no clue how to even put a tractor in gear, so they put there mouth in gear!
  7. wont budge? and what tractor are u talking about. never had a one that wont sit back down. do you have things cleaned up good???
  8. well on assembly paint can be your worst enemy. just a pain in the slawka.
  9. nothing inside housings are ever painted. only exterior parts.
  10. I think a steamer would be the best choice to remove grease. careful on what degreaser you pick as some will remove or fade paint. unless you plan on a disassembly of it to clean it. good luck
  11. man you hit the jackpot there!! totally agree with leaving in its work clothes as its complete and all original. tough parts will be the clean up, trying to keep originality on it. painting it will devalue that unit for sure.
  12. as with any patch up job you need to use common sense as to what will and will not work. the 282's need good compression for easy starting. sleeve wear and valve protrution is very important. plus you don't want anything between the sleeve and bore. you want the heat to transfer into the block. I would lift that sleeve out and clean it up good and inspect it for cracks. cracks are common on them. you want it to push in quite firmly by hand. if u must use locktite use only a small amount amount around the bottom. you have to think that eventually someone will or might be removing it again. don't go crazy on the honing either. if u feel a ridge at the top when carbon is removed then no sense even reusing it. same with the head new seats and valves as required is the way to go for easy starting. sure they will run as you say with limited use but she wont be easy starting. plus injectors and pump factors in too. don't forget about the 3 stage torque of head to 120 ft. lbs. plus the retorque after an hr. or two of running at operating temp.with a valve reset of .027. spray the head gasket with felpro high tack sealer also. been using that stuff for over forty years.
  13. is the rack moving when you operate the throttle lever on pump.? the throttle lever should be moving quit a distance.
  14. nice super. 1953 I would think. in 53 they went to the channel frame. whats the serial #?
  15. sounds to me like the pump is worn out. too much clearance inside. or might have a suction leak. needs a pressure check and flow check. they need to be replaced with a rebuilt. as pumps are rebuilt and the checked and set to spec. at the shop. its not something you do at home.
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