rustred

they are a good tractor. plus very collectable.

he is talking about it not shifting, sounds electrical to me, it it shifts and wont move then it would be mechanical like burnt clutches, or o rings. not enough info here at all.

exactly, why overhaul it when its possibly an electrical problem. and you say it wont shift ,... so there u go. so i dont know whats with the confusion emogi. and of course the oil color and smell tells a story also , which we dont have that info.

yep typical rip off shop. good mechanic's fix the actual problem !

its for your satisfaction not the next guy's even though it can help have the complete history of the unit.

it don't really matter what u pay, u want it buy it. it has nice sheet metal which is the biggest deal. just need fenders and a seat and done.

and to add,... u dont just pull a head and replace the gasket. there is a lot to check, head and block for flatness, pull all the valves out and inspect them and check guides, look at the cylinders for wear. check the head gasket to see if it has been sealing good. and so on. so if its running good with a little leak as u say just leave er b. a walk around after a shutdown with a rag and a can of brake clean is cheap. this is old stuff is very expensive to fix especially these gas starts. can put 10k in that engine very easily. i gave this same info on yesterdys tractor forum and wow, u could tell who knows what. that moderator said i was too toxic for the site, so i said **** with them idiots.

like to see this leak. a leak is a leak that you can visually see oil running. i have yet to see such a leak on a head gasket. and have worked on all kinds of engines. show us , can talk and talk but that solves nothing.

post a pic of them. i have a 1939 model wd40.

i totally agree with the float drop being too low. i have a w6 that would keep flooding and thats exactly what it was. plus make sure that float pin is pinched in the bracket and make sure the float is set level.

i would wash the engine and get rid of all that old oil. then use it some and see what it does. i agree on not disturbing the engine. these things ran for hrs. on end in the field and many have small weeping. i dont have much faith in these new diesel head gaskets. as for retorquing, once the nuts and head and gaskets have been there that long sandwiched to retorque wont do anything. i have tryed that on the 282 and no difference. i would pay attention to the valve cover as that is more of a possibility. and if you have no internal leaks thats a good sign.

both models were built in 1956. the 600 was built for a period of about 6 months before the 650 took over. Guy Fay was saying approx. 35-45 gas models. i have both diesel models. the 600 had a very short production run.

where the rest of it ?

why ?

what do u mean by rebuild ? most times these simple old carbs only need a cleaning and a kit put in . means disassemble and soak it in gunk and wash out with warm water and blow out all passages with air then assemble. make sure the float is checked and set level. and check the needle and seat if not being replaced. so simple. i do all kinds of carbs. on lots of these i even make the gaskets.