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rustred

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About rustred

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/22/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    westlock, ab can.
  • Interests
    collecting IHC stuff,auction sales.

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  1. and here is the stuff I use, so what u mean u cant find any.
  2. and fine tuning means only turning the distributor very small amounts like 1/16" at a time , turning till max rpm you will be way out to lunch. you want to vary timing by only a couple degree's at a time. and experiment with it.
  3. well no. factory has a setting to follow if its all original engine. I have yet to see someone time an engine by ear and its to factory spec. almost every time it will be advanced too far. you don't need a timing light to time them . I have timed piles of these old tractors . seldom use a light and when I check my timing against a light it is right on. you can either use a piece of paper or go by the spark snap. get the engine on compression at TDC then line up the timing marks where they should be. then loosen the distributer hold down bolts a bit. then turn the ignition on and rotate the distributor clockwise a bit. then when you start rotating it counter clockwise you will hear the spark snap! that's where you tighten the distributor down. the other way is to not have ignition on and turn distributor clockwise a bit then put apiece of thin paper between the point contacts. the slowly turn distributor counter clockwise while slightly pulling on paper. the point where the paper pulls out is the spot to tighten the distributor down. been doing this for years and years, foolproof. plus you will see how easy starting it will be. plus make sure your points are set to spec. first before setting timing. then you adjust your carburetor. and another thing... make a small chisel make or punch mark on the housing where the factory setting is , then when you want to move it a couple degree's which is probably only a 1/8" movement of distributor. you have your reference point. other wise you have no idea where your at. lots of times they are marked already.
  4. that's the only head gasket there is , unless your talking about the valve cover gasket?
  5. rustred

    W9

    I have one also. they are a big brute. I cant even find the fuel pump or kit for mine or the starter switch that goes on top the starter. finding parts for the 9 is pretty much obsolete. the w6 is a lot easier.
  6. I think you would want the 427 truck engine instead. they were a real work horse. plus had the governor on distributor. 4 bbl holley carb.
  7. I looked at mine and the rod is so simple to make as its almost straight. nothing hard at all.
  8. ill see what I can do.
  9. I also forgot to say, even if the old one is all bent up you still have it and the tractor there to fab one... right?
  10. I said I would send you pictures on the other forum, but you didn't send me ur number,...so?
  11. normal situation. that is what the hole is for on the bottom of carb. it is sucking gas up into manifold, then if it don't start it falls back down and leaks out of carb.
  12. that is true. I make the deciding factor when both heads are side by side. that one kinda looks like in good shape except cracks. another one might need valve guides, seats, and valves plus the grinding. all depends what you find and its general shape. ideally would be another bolt on head. I sold a super wd9 head for 650.00 few years ago. ready to bolt on. that was reasonable.
  13. that head can be repaired, … but it will be costly. valves look good as they are sitting up high and not all pounded out. even the cyl.s look good,
  14. I am in Alberta Canada. the stuff is still that stinky stuff that if you get it on clothes or hands it can be smelled where ever you go. unless it has just been deleted as I bought mine couple years ago.
  15. just remove the pan and check the brgs. how else is a person to know. will get all kinds of comments here. anti freeze just sitting in the oil will not hurt a thing. to get it high enough into the brgs. it would need a lot of antifreeze, meaning no oil. presume it was not run with antifreeze. even if it was leaking some just drain it out the pan plug before starting and go.
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