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About rustred

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/22/1957

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  • Location
    westlock, ab can.
  • Interests
    collecting IHC stuff,auction sales.

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  1. yes, just monitor how much it is leaking. say if you use it for an hr. drain it in a can to see how much it is actually leaking. i put up with the leak if it like 1/2 cup in few hrs. if the fuel is basically running into the pump then yes you need to do the repair.
  2. then its 2 1086's better stay with the old antiques!
  3. looks like it goes with that unit. and even made that u can use a hammer on them. looks like a w6 crank , is that for the truck?
  4. dont know what you know about those pumps. but, those pumps require engine oil in the pump. about 2 cups worth. drain plug is at bottom there and full level is that petcock. add oil at the flip top. that is the transfer pump in front of sediment bowl behind injection pump. that transfer pump has a seal that leaks the diesel into the pump case. pretty well 80 percent of these old engines do that. what i do is just drain down the level with the petcock when i use them. mine dont leak a lot but do leak. then once the oil gets pretty thin from diesel i just change the oil again. for the amount
  5. these engines came out with the Bosh pump also as well as injectors. i have that set up on a wd6.
  6. from what i have found on these 282's is the cranking speed is really really important. i have a 560 , 282 that has never been apart with 5600 hrs. and it is the easiest starting 282 i have ever seen. can sit all winter ... hold glow plugs for 30 seconds and its running on the third revolution. basically as soon as you hit the starter button. my 660 dont start no where near as easy and it has had the head done, but i know it needs sleeves and pistons
  7. i worked in a GM garage years ago and went for schooling on them old 5.7 engines and 6.2's the instructor made a point of specifying that all lines must be the same length and hold the same amount of fuel. maybe 2 cc's dont matter? i dont know now. he never said anything about how much variant you can have. yes i have tested injectors. and yes i believe what your saying about them. so maybe instructor did not know either, but that is what he was teaching. guess learn new stuff all the time. even those old WD40 pumps need to be set up on a test bench for fuel delivery with those adjust
  8. yes last ones produced in 53 before the supers. dont know what the serial number is. in 53 have both models.
  9. the non TA tractors use 80-90. with a TA u need hytran oil and its not just hydraulic oil. when these tractors came out they did have gear oil in them but it did not work good with the TA especially in the cold weather. you can switch if you want if using it in winter time. no will not hurt it. long as its hytran oil. but i think gear oil is cheaper?
  10. that is correct ! it was a poor connection to the hold in winding so yes that was the problem hold in winding not holding and pulling the drive the drive in. and yes they can be cleaned up to work or replace so???
  11. rustred

    W6 puller

    there is 3 adjustments on the drawbar arms. you can go up to 18" high max.
  12. rustred

    W6 puller

    you interested in a os4?
  13. better look for a different tractor then.
  14. yes, i have turned that contact bolt also as the get worn down from contacting. there u go back in business.
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