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rustred

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Everything posted by rustred

  1. and you are correct on that , as well i know that so that is why i said what i said. the shock load finished it off, due to the wear. if the tractor was new this would have not happened. so what is all this pin poking for, but thats alright i get to read more comments buddy...
  2. those are one of the best sounding J.D'S .always did like the sound of them even in the evening could her them for miles in the field. i bet those 2 will out pull the 830.
  3. did you loosen the oil drain plug first to drain off any antifreeze if there was any in the oil.? kind of a common procedure when you know you have coolant leaking into oil pan.
  4. you could pull the pan first . have a cardboard under it with rad full . then watch for drips on card board then inspect with a good light where they are coming from. can be a very slow drip . that would be the best thing to do, as taking apart first can be hit and miss on a slow leak.
  5. "... do they go all out once or does fatique take its toll over time?"... i was just answering the question you asked. and no front end loader wont do that. its physics. your welcome.
  6. you shock loaded a crack and that is the outcome.
  7. am not saying it will break all at once, but it is un necessary front weight that will do the damage in time. plain to see. pull it apart and inspect the crack you will see . the bounce finished it off.
  8. same thing as breaking a sick over your knee.
  9. plus it looks like your raking hay not spraying a crop.
  10. i hardly think so , what is the weight then of that sprayer. i am sure ur not driving with the front wheels off the ground. and if it bouced in the ruts and broke that tells the story.
  11. i think if you had over 400 lbs hanging off your belt buckle you would fall flat on your face too. weights go on the rear . if needed.
  12. you could use them for anything but mounting ties on.
  13. that is true . its just that the farmers were burning this cheap grade of fuel to save money, in the 30's and 40's, but in the end they ended up with worn out engines. so there was no saving. better off to just dump in 1/4 diesel fuel if you had two tanks. the engine has to be run HOT though.
  14. check the compression first and record it. set the valves to spec.( .017) . then recheck the compression. a valve set is part of a major tune up. as said the wires MUST be the wire core not carbon core. plus the timing has to be set to spec. it sure sounds like an exhaust flutter. plus you set the carb after the timing set, NOT before. open the main jet on the bottom 3-4 turns open at 5 turns the needle will be fully out of the seat for heavy pulling. set the mixture screw at 3/4 turn out. idle screw is 400 rpm. tractor should be starting with 1/2 a revolution crank, meaning when 1 cyl fires it should be running.
  15. is it just for looks or to run distillate? as disitllate is obsolete and you dont want to burn that garbage anyhow and wash down cyl. walls then burn oil.
  16. the springs are there for a reason. you will break off the governor arm on the housing this way. you have no cushion now.
  17. i am not sure if they fit each other but didnt think so. years back i put the whole international 560 front end on my super w6 . al i did was shorten the stay rod a couple inches. lots better front end , not like those old worn out w6 tie rods. plus both had 18" tires so no problem there. you might have to physically try each one to find out.
  18. yes u asked for info... i said check compression. that is the first step. u came back talking about investigating the problem . so yes it gets a person annoyed that you asked and then were told how to find problem by did not procede to do it. i expected you compression readings posted next . no different that diagnosing over the ph from work. is was told check compression and did not then i better have some explaining to do to the higher ups. its just the procedure in diagnosing. it dont bother me cause i just try to help everyone out. even j mech was good but he could not stand when people didnt listen either. u got free good proper info so use it. i dont use sugar an anything so i guess that hurts some feelings. .... ooh and yes stompin top sings that song. we had a saying at work "good help is hard to come by". so thank you and good luck .
  19. well i started my super w6 gas i have not had running for a few years. so i thought of this 5 gear thing. i put it in 5 th gear right on the yard at 1/4 throttle and it took off no problem went down the road 1/2 mile and back stopped a couple times to see what you are complaining about the the tractor takes off with no effort. but yes pulling a load behind you need to start in 4th and shift. so if its not taking off in high gear you have other problems.
  20. i am amased, compression check was ordered. yes, so check the COMPRESSION ! nothing hard. sounds like the head gasket is burnt between the 2 cyls. AS STOMPIN TOM SAYS GET TO IT AND AT IT, CAUSE IF YOU DONT GET TO IT YOU WONT GET AT IT TO GET TO IT. for the time you spend posting your investigating's you have the comp. check done and have your answer. its the head gasket from what you describe. do you have a compression tester? you will get 2 low readings on those 2 cyls' do you know how to check compression???
  21. well lack of info here then.
  22. yes lots of info here... but my question is why will it not start out in 5th ? i have yet to see these tractors not start out in 5 th gear. as i said give it 1/2 throttle in 5th and just let the clutch out. it will go chug chug and get rolling quite easily. do not slip the clutch , that is the bad thing. plus no reason to grind gears either. maybe that engine needs some tuning. i have all these tractors from w4, w6 w9 400,450, right up to 660 and they all start out in 5 th.
  23. just get things out of the way and drive a punch through it and pop it out. make sure sealing surfaces are clean. pound the new one in using a socket or what works only on the outside edge. plus use some blue locktite on the sealing surface. no silicone. on the flat convex frost plugs you have to tap the centre flat once installed , as thats what seats them. i presume you have the cup type.
  24. rustred

    Update stinks

    my last post has two different posts mixed up in it!
  25. think you better be more specific. engine, radiator, steering? trans, diff? must be your first tractor. the manual covers all that also.
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