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Everything posted by rustred

  1. that is a repaint. not even correct green for the type M engine. its a darker green . non of these are green.
  2. also NAPA can get them . i have bought at both places.
  3. i would have to look on my bill. why not just ph and ask someone with knowledge, its the parts man's job. try to remember tonight. there is nothing hard to get those filters.
  4. thats a rarer than rare find ! even power steering.
  5. just wonder what wrong with this one? take it apart and clean it.
  6. yes, why is the pushrod damaged? why are u removing the rocker? nice to have info.
  7. are the filters properly bleed? when bleeding running on gas you should have a lot of flow out of final filter
  8. just out of curiosity was the throttle open and give give each cyl 5 puff's of compression on a warm engine? those readings are not all that bad. first time i saw results posted following the firing order. a burn valve is more of a huff ing sound in exhaust. to check you stick your hand over the pipe at idle and it will have suction on the burnt cyl. exhaust valve.
  9. how did this become? tractor running and stop? or went to start it and no go? first check point gag and set also clean points. quite possible its the condenser. a bad coil on a running tractor will be hot to the touch.
  10. this is my brothers tractor he had our neighbor do. took him a year and a half but the end result is fantastic.
  11. i am trying to find out why low oil lube pressure is affecting my hesitation. i keep saying that cold everything works just fine... till after one hr of heavy pulling the deep tillage then this hesitation comes up. everytime i let the tractor cool off then its good again. no one has given me an answer to that.
  12. here is the factory ih set up. then the control , but i did not get pic.
  13. yes , it appears that way now. i blew air in those oil tubes and it comes out the other tubes. so that sure dont seam right. if things are sealing in those ta and direct clutch pack it should not do that.
  14. rustred


    holy man with the price of gas increases lately here, he might change his mind . 1.42 per litre. or it will be expensive freight at the end of the line.
  15. i am pretty sure he will be taking the head to a machine shop that does head rebuilding. lots more to it than just grinding the valves. plus i have never heard of doing only one valve anyhow. i guess maybe some backyard guy might though, but that would be just a patch up job as some do to get it going and gone down the road. a job on this head is about 500.00. and if you need to start buying valves and seats and guides it will be more.
  16. waa waa i was not critizing him. any time you run into engine problems compresion check is always first, then u replace parts , that is what i am saying. so why didnt you tell him to check compression.
  17. yes if the gear turns clockwise , give it one tooth clockwise to retard it. think or a car distributor when setting timing. turning it in same direction retards timing and turning it opposite of rotation advances timing. same on tractors.
  18. yes i have that gage hooked up also. i have 190 psi working.
  19. and to add to this on the lube pressure,... if i KEEP WORKING , it WILL KEEP DROPPING had it down to 5-6 lbs. so where is this oil going is my question. you guys are giving me general answers. i heard it was not good to be working below 9-10 lbs pressure on the lube side.
  20. i was just going to say the same thing. has to be drive gear, as it has too much advance.
  21. i also checked pressure with steering dead ended in both directions and have 1700 psi.
  22. well that makes no sense to what is happening on the tractor. as i said all is good when cold everything works as should. i have the gauges mounted in place of the light. you can start off cold with 19 psi , then as oil is warming up the pressure CREEPS DOWN , dont drop. then once its at around the 13 psi range if you stop tractor and then try to take off it hesitates then will jump and go. it does not do this cold when it has the higher oil pressure. NO problem with the steering at all, warm or hot. and the other thing is tractor keeps pulling as long as you dont step on clutch and stop it, as then it will not move. so how can oil pressure have a no affect on it?
  23. check the compression... most likely a burnt valve. why replace all them parts ? first things first.
  24. dont snap the mag. just get things lined up so the slot align with rotor in #1 position and away you go.in other words turn it backwards so your not fighting the impulse coupling. fine tune by moving the mag in the slots to fire at top dead centre. just did the same thing on a super wd9. fired right up after the paint job assembly. all i do is crank it very slowly with the hand crank as as soon as it click make sure you stop that instant and check your timing marks. adjust as needed by moving mag and repeat.,
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