rustred

he can stay in space along with his data. that is the so called plan that everything will be stored in space and it will take a lot of power to keep it there.

there's a lot going on now that we are not being told. same as with the G6 phones. we will be walking zombies and do as we are told. just look up once in a while, there is a lot of chem spraying happening fast. i have seen 6 and seven planes at once grid spraying, and no its not exhaust, as they want you to believe. every time i have noticed after the spraying , then comes the rainy days. i also am keep track of every time i see them spraying.

totally agree. i have been on there for 20 years. always the same old dim witted whiners. since that kid moderator came he dont know $hi1 . i got tired of him and his ego tripping so if im that toxic as he put it i dont need his $hi1. the ones that do know stuff they chase away.

have you confirmed no oil pres. by removing the gauge and cranking it, or try another gauge ? do not start it till you know it has pressure. the pump is the heart so best to start there next. worn pumps can have low pressure , but loosing all pres. something occurred with pump drive.

if the key shears it cant keep running as the dist. is behind the pump. post a pic of this farmhand set up, so can get on the same page.

the diesel used 12 volt and the gas used 6 volt. you will not tell the difference by looking at them. one has a black tag and one has a red tag. post some pictures of each one. so we get on the same page.

how does a female get into that much scrape ???

he must have it fixed,... we are ghosted

without you knowing what fittings it has , or us without eyes or pic's on the subject is very hard to say what you have going on there. it was a common thing for that control to leak , and if it was just the sealing rings on the fittings i am sure you would be able to figure that out. i have seen all kinds of different fittings there that were farmerized.

have you did the fuel flow check with the line off the carb, has to be a full line of gas gushing out depending on the fuel in tank level. plus that is part of a carb job is to check from sediment bowl down the line. seen this problem many times.

post a pic of this tractor problem and you will get better information as to the best fix.

thats quite a mess u got going on with that cylinder, the coolant has been leaking in there for some time to have it all pitted like that. definitely needs machine shop work. the valves will be removed and the head soaked and cleaned. then resurfaced most likely will need .015-,020 shaved off. then depending on the valve seats they will either be replaced as needed. dont think that head has seats so they will cut those out and install new seats and have them installed with the correct valve recession spec. ideal would be .005 recessed to keep your compression up there. once they get down to around .040 its new seat time anyhow. plus the valves will be checked if they are still serviceable. plus guides and valve springs and keepers will be checked. you should be coming out of the shop with a totally rebuilt head, no half azzed jobs for this head. plus you never ever drag a head as i can see with the marks on the valves, especially a newly resurfaced unit as that means u just screwed up that job! all carbon must be meticulously clean everywhere on the block. use a razor blade or a gasket scrapper, making sure not to make any scratches. i use permatex high tack spray on my head gaskets all the time . many use copper coat also. a warm up for an hr. after started and then the final retorque and valve setting. these baby engines and like the 282 will prove your job. and if you thinking just to replace that gasket again your wasting your time and a head gasket.

first you check pressure with a master gauge liquid filled preferred, not what's on the tractor. since you did the o/h you should be posting the actual spec's. just saying they were in spec don't mean much. they can be at the outer edge of the spec. how do you know the cam brgs were good ? that's the first place to look for lower oil pressure. .008 on the pump seams a bit thick to me. but in the end you don't have a brand new engine and your oil pressure is totally fine. if you had 5 lbs at idle then its a concern.

should not be hard to figure that out. is it fully seated now ? never saw any stick out of the flywheel. nice to know what this is on.

you said the shaft fell of when your turning ,... well that means that shaft is too short and they will fall off when turning as turning pulls the shaft out. the sliding yoke dont just stay in one place. thats why its sliding.

orientation is correct there. but it might be too short if its falling apart. plus the welding may not be correct giving it a wobble, but being too short will make it wobble as not enough shaft is inside to hold it steady. plus the sliding joint must be greased, as in pull it apart and grease the shaft up good, along with keeping u joints greased.

take the old seals to a brg. and seal shop like motion industries. they measure them and hand you new ones. plus way cheaper than going through a dealer.

when you switch to diesel the needle closes the seat . does "chugging" mean its running out of gas ???

THE 282'S oil cooler is on the left side under the oil filter. the engine oil coolant lines run through . it is not an actual cooler on the rad. dont know how yours is.

very poor loader tractor.

shedded ? would need a pic. to see its value. takes the right person that wants it. could be 100 - 1000.00 dollars, gotta know if the engine is stuck also. and if it sat outside its basically scrap value, or if someone wants the engine.

need to replace that seal.

you will not know that just by pulling the head.

yes, and that is what platigauge is for. why presume ? measure the clearance with plastigauge then u make the big decission.

your doing it wrong then, once you pull the outer brg. out , then you screw on the nut a few turns then u use the nut to pop the inner brg. out, by pulling on the hub. the nut catches the brg and out she pops. this is the way i have been doing it all my life. just like a slide hammer . and once brgs are packed you are good for years. these brgs. are slow turning on a tractor. not like on an auto where you are traveling hyway speeds. and we used to pack brgs. around 20k miles and he hub dont need to be full of grease either. i have one original front wheel brg on my duramax and it has half a million km.