rustred

yes its running on diesel in the video.

if your starter has the switch on top of the starter , then yes , its operated by a pull rod. i know the tractors you have to pull that rod. wonder why your asking as its a straight forward thing you can see and figure out,... either push or pull . post a pic. of that set up then i can tell you for sure.

yes and use the same weights as the 660.i had an 806 and the weights were the same as my 660's

i am not sure what they weigh. your guess maybe right.

the 301 is a sleeveless engine such as in the combines. the later 282's were to have larger intake valves in the 706. the 282 is stamped under the oil filter housing.

"brazing would be proper way to go", not what i was taught. as said its going to melt when the manifold gets red hot. gotta be stick welded with cast rod.

those 660 weights are also the same ones used on the 806. i got my 660 weighted to 12,000 lbs with 7 weights per side and those front weights.

the early ones used the same 282 engine as the 60 series 560, 660, in 1966 the german 310 replaced the 282 in these tractors. maybe that is what you have . or post your engine pic.

run a tape measure around each tire and see what they measure, that answers your own question. you dont want a taller tire on the outside. and also run the outside with low air pres. like 6 lbs is good. many axles have been snapped of due to running duals. thats quite a tire diff.

well for one thing u remove the hood and then you can pressure wash the engine. not a chance i would be working on a filthy mess like that. sure dont show where u washed it. injectors should be covered to prevent dirt from entering them and causing problems, along with all other lines. when head is off valves should be removed and checked for wear. same with the head for cracks . very common on these heads. be nice to see them pic's. dont even look like the head bolts nuts and washers were even washed, nor the threads cleaned, just off and on again. they must also be oiled .i were sure hope that head gasket don't leak being installed dry. so how do you know you have the problem solved ? was the gasket bad ? a man's skill is observed by his work cleanliness.

looks like a bank of 671's to me. used on the mud pumps on oil rigs. that was what we used in the 80's and 90's. the floor motor was the8v92 i remember one time the roughneck asked me what that engine was. i told him him that means it has 8 cylinders with 92 cid in each cylinder.

we do not know your skills. most anything can be rebuilt , by to justify putting that much money into something is the question. engine alone can be 10k for the rebuild. then the radiator who knows if its good plus new engine you need a good rad. then the rest of it who knows.. ? clutch , TA , trans diff> tires and so on. follow IH BLOOD 1206 with his 650 restoration then u will answer your own question if you can do the same. this would be a complete tear down of this 450 D tractor . 20k figure on the job would be in reason.

what about for the 282 diesel.? you can put a felpro in them then spray the gasket when running with soapy water and actually see the compression seeping out in tiny bubbles.

all depends on what you are doing, as i have already done that in a 560 loader tractor for winter use feeding cows , used straight aw32 vis oil. these tractors use hytran hyd. oil . will last a lot longer than say in a loaded truck. them diff's get hot to the touch on long trip.

it would be felpro, as victor is obsolete. unless there is someone else making them now like MAHLE as was suggested.

look at my first sentence and the reason why.

sure they did reuse them on them old low compression gas tractors in the 1920's and 30's. just smear grease on both sides and good. them were much better gaskets and it worked as i have done that also. you sure will not do that on any diesel .

i have always specified to use gear oil on puller threads, and always have also. put engine oil in your truck diff and see how far u go till its howling.

i had a new old sock victor gasket from Olson's . 🙂. glad i had that as them felpro gaskets are poor. i put in new sleeves and pistons ring, brgs. had the head rebuilt valve protrusion set at .006. that thing starts like when it was new. 2 turns after 30 sec. of glow plugs. the other day i was using it and shut it down while doing something. about 1/2 went by and thought i would try with out glow plugs. sure enough it started just like that. before the overhaul it took at least 10 seconds of cranking to get it started . the valves were recessed about .050 , so i will never get another head done with out installing new seats. thats the answer in easy starting. plus a retorque of the head and valve setting is a must. you will get close to another 1/4 turn on the head bolts when hot, after it has been running for an hr.

i always use Permatex High Tack sealer, on every gasket including head gaskets. been using this for over 50 years. i looked at copper coat once and put some on my finger and said not for me. i just rebuilt my 282 in my 660 and that is the test right there. its oil and gas resistant and never gets hard and the gasket is easily removable, not like some of them sealers that are like cement once hard.

post some compression results. dont look good to me. wheeling over like no compression. plus is there spark? is it getting fuel ? those also take the diesel long reach plugs.

pretty hard to give a quote with no photo's of them. it could be 1k- 3k , plus people are scared of the diesels. running or not running, and tires come into effect.

thats not going to work as the filters are full of fuel , or u mean after the pump. but even so the deal is to cut the air off. told us that right in cat class.

go for it , nothing to hurt in them. they roll pretty easy.