rustred

i agree the block is not toast, as its about the least worn thing . yes it can be decked and line bored and what ever else it needs. it appears squatch didnt want to spend that kind of money on it. and to get all them parts in shape would be quite a few thousand dollars. i cant get over that crank at how much wear it has. i know i would not spend that on it either.

well im glad u think that, as to me its way past worn out. plus the pistons in backwards, tells me who did that job. and yes you can have a patch on a block, but the rest would be done to spec. in a caterpillar shop.

i have seen a lot of worn engines, but this one takes the prize ! nothing but scrap there. i would hate to hear the rattling happening also,... maybe it was have another beer , as no radio to turn up ! Squatch knows what he is talking about and does good work. and a perfect example of wanna be mechanic.lol.

till you post what the new brg. clearances you have, its hard to know what your actual clearances are. seams like you just removed the old brgs. and checked the crank ?? no telling how much wear the brgs. have . .0015 is ideal on a reground crank with new brgs. .004, .005 is at the max wear level and means brg. time for sure. at .005 things will just wear that much faster especially under load, due to less oil pressure. plus running a thicker oil like #40, 20-50. of even the diesel 15-40 would help. there will be a lot more than 3-400.00 than a crank turning , thats only part of an overhaul.

that winch is more than enough to load that little dozer. they roll very easy on the track rollers . even if you jackknife your truck a bit and use a tractor to pull it up the ramps from the side of trailer. block the trailer wheels also. done that many times loading dead stuff. i take it it dont have a blade , and that is a lot less hassel . i have also losded dead tractors using a front end loader tractor and hooked the cable or chain to the loader and backed up pulling the tractor on, works good. gotta have a good size tractor not a tonka toy.

and the other thing was them clamps would come loose and wear the rims. even though they had a little block welded on the rim to prevent it from turning on the hub. i like the newer bolt on type far better.

these are the old style clamp rims , the standard "Super" tractors all use the bolt style with the rim tabs. on farmalls i have each way.

i am wondering why you are decking it ? never even hear of doing that on these. is the block warped ? common to plane the head though. head would require guides, seats , probably valves. springs would be checked or replaced . pay special attention the the valve recession on these heads. max is .046 depth. new is .004. i have mine at .005. you must give this spec to the machinest ! you sure are not going to be reusing the old brgs. even the cam should be pulled out and replace those brgs. and check the cam and followers. followers will need to be resurfaced most likely. they must be convex, if flat or concave they are done. as for head gaskets they are all felpro gaskets dont matter who sells them. that head must be torqued in 3 stages to 115 lbs. then run for an hr. min. at 1000 rpm rad covered for heat . then the head retorqued. and valves set to .027 hot. without retorquing you will blow that gasket out in no time. and also these heads are old and many already have small cracks in them. make sure its soaked by hot tanking it and checked.

must be plowing hrs. as the hole is not worn straight back. many times on a plow the drawbar will be slide over one hole to the left. could be 10,000 hrs. or more.

so what all is going to take place on this engine ?

as i say ... the 282 is a test of the mechanic's skill.

far as i know those are metric.

mostly applies to the 282 head gaskets. the old red victor gaskets were the good ones. these felpro gaskets dont last. you can do a perfect job and once the tractor is running spray soapy water along the head and you will see tiny bubbles coming out. i have changed many of these gaskets on my tractors . have lots with the 282 engines. good engine if you look after it and you cant pull the heck out of them. and for easy starting you need to drill out the old seats and install new seats . i set mine at .005 and she starts excellent , from the way it was before. gotta have that compression right up. case ih sells felpro and so does olsens gaskets. not cheap either.

i would be worried also about starting the engine with no oil pressure. have you checked the rod brgs. at least. might be why it was parked or for sale. cranking the engine over will have oil coming out of that gallery in place of gauge.

what engine is this in what tractor ? low compression worn out injectors causes wet stacking along with low idling. cover the rad to keep temp up and idle it at least 1000 rpm. at idle a diesel has no heat. it can also dilute the engine oil .

appears the needle and seats are worn or maybe have rust in them from sitting. but yes you need to take them apart and see if you can lap them in. no parts available for them injectors as far as i know. if the fuel is not being atomized and burnt then yes it will go past the rings and raise the oil level. could try putting it on a load and running it hot with the rad covered and see what happens.

i have the 560 international standard tractor and the 450 standard tractor , both diesels. i know the 560 will pull more than the 450. its the same deal in the antique tractor pulls.

because they just kept using them in high range. many many tractors out there without a working TA. i dont see the need for a TA either in them small chore tractors. not like your doing field work day after day with them . plus you have 2nd and 3rd gears to chose from. them TA's get screwed up from people not knowing how to use them.

lots of if's here.

should be a yes, as anytime them engines were overhauled they got 4 inch sleeves and pistons. i have yet to find one with the original 3 7/8 sleeves.

ooh ya, he was just over on Y T site and has everyone all sucked into is game. i saw past all that, pretty much told him off . .

take the measurements to a machine shop or an old sleeve and it can very easily be made. i had one made for the 282's years back, was around 100.00 then.

pull that starter of and get into it and replace the bushings and brushes and the terminals on that switch wear from contacting. if your pushing hard on that switch that is one obvious sigh also. also on some of them starters you could turn the contacting terminal around. you can keep asking questions here but till you dig into the problem nothing will be fixed. and yes the bendix is also on it way out if it spins sometime. your worrying about the wrong thing here. that set up has worked for ages and no one complained, you need a properly working starter .

1927 IHC type M 1 1/2 h.p. engine

ya that dude had more luck than brains.