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About Coytee

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    Knoxville, TN

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  1. Awesome! Thank you very much. For my next OCD question.... I don't like the idea of them dangling under the fenders. (keep in mind I have those double pocket fenders). How to run the wires? Is there enough inherent length to run them up the support channel on the inside of the fender? Actually, since it's possible the fenders might come off in future, I might make some pigtails and run the pigtails down the support channel so the wires are tucked away and if the fender ever needs to come off, you don't have to re-string the wires down anything. I've not dug into that yet since I'm still at this stage (only have verticals painted, fenders are next THEN it all starts to go back together) Well...hmm... just looked and of the various projects I've done to this thing (shifters, ammeter, tach, PTO....) I don't have a single picture showing the two lights. None the less, this is the fender from a side view. I glanced at it this morning and didn't notice any holes on top to put flashers (don't care) or perhaps a rear facing work light. (I would have an interest in that one). Doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. I'll probably never need them. Though the rear work light could be handy.
  2. I need to poke around the website, but do they make... a " two in one"? Meaning, I take the hot wire to first lamp on fender. Lamp has a connector on it but that connector has a secondary outlet so I can plug the second light to the first? (I know I can cut/snip some wires to make things work but if I'm already in the world of these connectors, my way of thinking is to try to keep it the same all the way through...... you may call me OCD if you wish)
  3. Not being an expert on those things, at a glance, I'd have to say those are either exactly what I need or a very close version.
  4. Thank you for those....I've not looked yet but will when I get some time. In case this answers something not answered above....here's an example. Since I've not looked into the terminal locations of the wires yet, I don't know if I need one or 15... so I was planning on ordering ten sets. Hopefully, that would give me enough to use the male end on the various parts where I need one.... (would end up with extra female ends). On the ground wires, I could use the full pair.... so in other words, I could pick/choose what I need to make it work. I was looking at 10 sets, if I need extra, that's ok. I don't recall specifically what this connects to...but it's a short wire, "#71" and is brown. I grabbed it because it's short and I didn't want to carry the entire harness into the store!! It looks like a naked male spade would go into it but on a hot wire, I'd want it covered.
  5. Went to NAPA And they had nothing. I went to pep boys and he pulled out two catalogs and could find nothing Do you have a brand or a vendor or an SKU for those parts? I know I can buy some off the shelf pieces but I don’t want to redo what’s already there I would rather match what’s there with its mate
  6. There ya go, from the man himself! That cleared up some of my confusion (though I was deducing this was the answer) Not great pictures, as I just yanked them out & opened them up a bit....but here's what the main line looks like. If you look carefully on the bottom right corner, you can see where my cat was preparing to chase a wire. So, 88Sseriesrestorer..... my fenders have double pockets (evidently I don't have 1066 fenders on my 1066....I had no clue when I bought it) I've got two pocket lights for each fender. Each light has a red/black wire coming out of them. I'm presuming that I can simply ground them to the bolt that holds the light on (and let it ground through chassis). The question then is, what type and where would I get the connectors to mount to the hot bare wire? Can I walk into any auto-store and find those connectors? Since I've not gone through it yet, would I only need them for the front lights and the four fender lights?
  7. I had a couple dead end, snipped wires behind the dash. I was always a bit fearful that they might be hot & short. (I think I've since realized having no fuse will eliminate that problem) I also had some wires who's sheathing was split down the length of them. I'm not sure yet but I'm presuming the harness I have will fit a couple different models so I might have some connections that don't get used. I think I'll need to get some (not sure what they're called) but quick disconnects. The light fixtures are bare wires and the harness looks to have a male/female connector on it. I've not looked yet for the parts so took harness & put into my car so I'd have the parts with me if I went into a parts store, I'm presuming auto-parts.
  8. I can take a picture. It's actually three parts. "Main" harness, fenders and as I recall, dash? None the less, it's three packages, three sets of paperwork. When I looked through the paperwork, one of them had some diagrams and those diagrams were probably not much more than a copy of IH schematic (but I don't know that). The diagram looked to be a small diagram and kind of fuzzy, as though it was taken from someone else. I still have to get the canopy arms reinstalled along with the fenders. I took them off to respray them. Those buggers are awkward to carry around alone! Only have canopy supports done, probably won't get to fenders until this weekend, THEN I'll be dealing with the wires. Maybe I can sneak them out while the wife isn't looking & lay them out on the floor. I did notice that the alternator wire is a pair of wires with the 2-plug on the end. Knowing that my current wire setup won't charge the battery unless I have that jumper on the alternator, when I put this on, I guess the first thing I'll need to check is to see if the battery is charging. If it is, I can lose the jumper. I don't want to take it all apart, put dash back together to only find out I have a dead bulb in the telite indicator. I tried to reach it and so far, can't get good grasp with the snarl of wires that are packed in there.
  9. Have (replacement) wiring harness in hand for 1066. Bought new LED lights for front and fenders. Currently NO lights work and most wires are just dangling around.....or have been cut. I have a memory in the back of my head that says the fender lights (for example) have a single wire which is hot. The ground is to the chassis itself. (there is no "ground wire") I only glanced at the new wiring harness and if I understand it correctly, there is a single lead there for the light (I only did a quick review of the wires verses schematic I saw) 1. Is my voice correct that the way the lights were wired was with a single wire and the ground was through the chassis? 2. If so, I'm going to presume I can simply take the ground wire and ground it at the mounting bolt (letting the light fixture ground to chassis as the new lights have 2-wires) If I misunderstand the harness when I glanced at it and it has +/- wires, then all's well and I just need to get some connectors for the lights. 3. On the dash is the Tellite. I've not removed it yet so this is a blind question....but ultimately, does it use the SAME bulbs that are used for the dash illumination or, is it a separate bulb? Let me restrict my question.... I understand it uses a 'blinky' bulb....I do NOT care about blinky, a solid light is fine in my book....so in that context, is it the same bulb as the dash lights?
  10. Just a comment.... "still not here" I would have liked to think that if they didn't have all the sections, they would have told me that up front. As is, he says he 'thinks' it will be done on next Tuesday which means yet another weekend opportunity wasted. Had I known that I would have at least looked into other vendors. (might not have changed anything but I would have been dealing from a position of knowledge instead of surprises) PS: as I recall, their website, his email, his voice.... SOMETHING / SOMEONE told me "we have one in stock" (not 2/3'rds....) oh well. Guess I'll have to work on my wife's list some.
  11. Coytee

    Battery Covers

    I made comment about one fitting (though temporarily it seems) and fell off while cutting a field. I saw it (bent) picked it up and placed it in the toolbox. Left it there until next weekend when I was using tractor (last Thursday/Friday) and when I went to refuel...... noticed it was gone. So it's jumped ship and is again, laying out somewhere, waiting to be rolled over again. Perhaps it's on a quest to find a female cover?? I don't know... with only a small portion of it showing out of the tool box, I was kind of surprised to see it jump out. Now, I have NO idea where it is. I know it will show up sooner or later, probably wrapped around a blade or something. I think I've become a bungee fan. I had bought a pair of them expressly for holding the batteries in, then decided to just "do it right" and buy covers.... so I already had the bungee's ready. Maybe I can take the second (pristine) battery cover, turn it upside down and serve some shrimp in it or something!??
  12. Coytee

    Battery Covers

    I'm glad others (you) consider them a PITA... that is becoming my experience. Fortunately I only care 5% about them....I'm not OCD about them and have other issues to work on. Right now, I have the unused good one (that I could never get to sit tight) sitting in my tool/box drawer... the other one is in the tractors toolbox sticking out the end. Not sure if they're worth the effort given the simplicity of the strap that holds each battery in AND (prior to getting my charging system fixed) access to the batteries for jumping purposes) Now that it's charging that's a moot point but it did illustrate the extra step to go through when you need to do that
  13. Coytee

    Battery Covers

    I got rid of the square battery and put two (not sure of style) 3ET or something like that.... two of the 12V long/skinny type. I bought two covers for them and at the AUTO store, two sets of rods to tighten the lids down. One of them simply slides to the side when I try to tighten it down. The first one, I can get the lid on straight BUT, the other day I was cutting a field and noticed something laying in front of me where I had already cut. Got closer, stopped machine and saw the "working" cover had fallen off and been run over. Now it's bent. It's like the angles are wrong on these things. It's not a big deal....I finally put some rubber straps over the batteries to make sure they stay in place BUT... I was trying to fix things up. I did buy the holding rods at an auto store. I didn't look at the "correct" ones online so for all I know, they might have a slight different angle. Upshot is, when you put these on and tighten them down, they tighten and pull the inside edge UPWARDS. It's almost like the hole (in the lid) is in the wrong place for the angle of the rod. Again, not a huge deal, I can live without them....I was just trying to fix some things that were missing. I also had to buy new cables as I was absolutely paranoid that the lid was going to short on them (one of them was a thicker metal piece and rode a bit high) So in a way, I'm more at ease with the straps, now they can't short.....but it looks a bit more naked now. Is there a secret on putting those things on? Maybe there's a certain wrench size I should use. I didn't use my Torque Multipler, I should get it out. I've not yet bought a 6' cheater wrench!!
  14. Just ordered the starter button.
  15. Got the safety switch. I didn't even think on replacing it.....not terribly worried about it. It works fine and is easy to get to. The reason I did some of the dash parts was simply because I'll be in there and it's much easier to do while it's apart than to take it back apart again and again... Now that I think about it, I did NOT order a starter button..... didn't think about that.
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