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    Knoxville, TN

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  1. I've driven mine down my road before (dead end country road and I'm at the dead end but have about 1/2 mile of the farm along the road) I've really detested the hand throttle when going down the road.....too fast, too slow....back to fast, then back to slow. Whenever I'm on the road I keep thinking how nice a foot throttle would be. Might have to get one though generally I'd not need it.
  2. If this still allows the hand throttle to work.... then would it do the following? Set the hand throttle at "X" rpm's (say a lower rpm for easy mowing of short/thin grass). Run into a clump, you currently have to move the hand throttle.....but could you instead, apply the foot throttle and after you get through the need for extra oomph, let go and it will go back down to the range dictated by the hand throttle? I ask because my backhoe has both. (foot for loader work and hand for backhoe work) If you have the hand throttle applied and you turn around and push the foot throttle, the foot throttle will PULL the hand throttle back down to its base location, essentially taking over control of the circuit and negating the application of the hand throttle. I could see the need for some added oomph and would be nice if the foot throttle added it without changing the hand throttle. (I am presuming this is indeed how it works, just looking for confirmation)
  3. When the steering cylinder on my (industrial) backhoe went south, the steering wheel essentially fought itself and would hardly turn at all. In fact, I hobbled home by raising the front wheels (using loader to take weight off them) and then they'd turn easily for direction changes. He stated that his steering wheel turns freely but his wheels don't. wouldn't he have a similar "fighting" issue if the cylinder had an internal issue with the seals?
  4. I know I've lost some Hytran when my lift cylinders on the mower blew a gasket. I had originally over-filled it but not sure that it's 5 gallons over now.
  5. If it's the O-ring, is that easily accessible? Tractor is 1066 open station I can't attest to steering as I was going in straight line..... BUT, I DO have a fleeting thought that the brakes were iffy. My (fleeting) memory is that when I initially stabbed at the brake pedal, that it was more spongy than normal... so I hit the other side (perhaps both?) and was able to stop. That's when I moved the T/A back/forth, Tellite went out and things were normal.
  6. This happened yesterday and it was the first time it's ever happened. Cutting the hill behind the house. Was in low range, 3rd gear WITH T/A engaged. Was heading down the hill so thought I'd let gravity help a bit and pushed up into DD. I freewheeled for a very short distance and the Tellite was on. I was befuddled as this has never happened. I yanked T/A back and nothing changed. So, I clutched it, put back to DD (and then maybe back to T/A, I don't recall) and everything was fine. This happened twice, both times the Tellite was on and both times I was heading down the hill going from T/A to DD and both times it worked itself out. It never happened going into T/A if I was facing up the hill. But, me knowing that I don't know all the nuances of these things, am wondering if this is the beginning of a T/A problem knocking at my door?? So thought I'd ask.
  7. I went there once. Had some pretty company with me on a pretty day. Was a nice drive. Other than the bear, I can walk out my door and see everything else in the field in front of me (picture). Just last night, took dogs out for their last round and there were about 15 deer in this field, while I was taking the smallest (and near blind) dog out....so she didn't get excited about the deer and the deer just ignored us NOW, when I take the big dogs out, one being a Great Pyrenees (sp?) SHE will go into chase mode and just about pull you over if you're not ready to defend your life. I found the geography of Cade's Cove pretty uninteresting (since again, I have most of it out my back door) however, I DID enjoy the dwellings I saw.
  8. Mother of an old girlfriend told this to me....must have been around 1977. What did the sadist say to the masochist when the masochist said "hit me, hit me" Sadist: "no"
  9. I didn't show this part... but two of the three motors have a wiper seal in the bottom in addition to the sealing, seal. The instructions tell you to (paraphrased) "tap the wiper on all sides to drive it out" Tap my hiney. I tapped it to smithereens. Interestingly, two of the three motors had (in this order) the bottom seal, followed by a snap ring and that then, was followed by the wiper. The third unit (same one that used the OTHER internal parts) had the seal but did not have the wiper. Since I didn't know this up front, I bought three wipers. I also made the decision to install the wiper so they all have the same bottom end in them. I had to destroy all the seals to get them out, there was NO "tapping" on them to get it done. Mind you, this picture was while the wiper was still looking GOOD. I really had to shred all three of them to get them out. To the point of grabbing the extended bits with my vice grips and ripping them apart until they finally succumbed to my relentless persistence.
  10. Being somewhat OCD on trying to follow directions.... here's a PDF of what came out of the owners/service manual. Note parts 6,7,8,9 verses part 12. On the pictures above, you see the brass figure 8 (part 12) and it has two elongated seals that go on it. Now look at the book and you have parts 6,7,8,9 I was having mental siezures trying to figure out where they went because they simply didn't exist (in the FIRST motor I did.....) I tried to set them up in there and just convinced myself that there's no way they were designed for that. Then, looking at the brass "figure 8" part (item 12) I realized that the outlines of those parts (6,7,8,9) were essentially cast into the brass part. So, I decided to not put them in and figured the kit simply covered more than one version of motor. Turns out that was correct. The SECOND motor I took apart, DID need these 6,7,8,9 items. Took second motor apart, replaced things, got it back together and with two bolts tightened (per instructions) rotated the shaft....worked fine. OOPS, there's the gasket laying beside the pump! Had to take it back apart to put the gasket in. Put the two bolts in, but now, it would NOT turn. What happened????? Took it back apart and one of those group items (happened to be part #8, shifted when I put together (they simply 'snap' together and are easily sprung out of place) Anyway, part #8 shifted and got pinched/crushed when I tightened it down. NOW what do I do? Well, since the first (and third) pumps do NOT use those parts, I thankfully had some extras! So pulled one of those out and fixed it all up being more careful this time.
  11. The pictures are of the first (of three) motors. I learn as I go. When I did the next two, I simply left them on the machine and broke the bolts loose while they were in place (same way I'll put the final torque on them when done). In fact, I broke all the bolts loose.....the bolts mounting it to the mower, the ones clamping it shut, the ones holding the inlet, outlet hoses and the pressure relief on top. Made it easy when I put it on the table. Oh, and on ALL three out of three..... I snapped (broke) one bolt on each motor that holds the pressure relief valve on top. Fortunately, the first one that broke, snapped while I was putting it back on.....so it had been out, hole cleaned and had anti-seize applied. I had to tap it out but got it. The next two snapped during the removal process.... so they still have 30 years of muck/corrosion in there to break loose. So, yesterday, I took one (completed) motor to my machinest friend and took the second motor apart and since it was in pieces, took only the top part to him so he'd have more options with it. Meaning, the first one, the entire motor unit, has some seals in it so he can't apply too much heat to it. The second one, he can do as he pleases since it's the naked top section. He said he had means to deal with both situations (the full unit also has the drive shaft sticking out so it won't sit flat on a surface without dealing without putting it on blocks or something. Here's more of the journey inside... (it's not much of a journey) The instructions say to "simply reach in with both thumbs and pull this brassy plate out" HAHAHAHAHAHA no way it was coming out like that. I needed another cheater friend Pulled something out of tool box that I thought would be perfect for this....and indeed, made pulling the plate out easy peasy. Full gaze into the guts. Oh.....originally, I was NOT going to venture this deep as from what I could tell, there were no gaskets in here so why bother? I then discovered there is a little "U" shaped plastic ring with an o-ring seal inside the "U" and that ensemble goes around each of those wells. You can see the raised lip....and indeed, when I got that far, I found one of those gaskets damaged. Probably the wrong term, but here are what the impellers look like. The oil simply pressures through one side, out the other and turn these in the meantime and now you're working!
  12. LoL the 1066 was used to try to buttress the motor as well as sandwiching it between my knees. The Crows foot broke so I used the stabilizer holding it as my plan B. Since the tractor was involved as a helping hand I thought I'd share.
  13. I've got a hydraulic motor that I was going to rebuild. Never done it before and jumped in blind. (I do have its manual for some assistance). Took it off the mower, sat it down and went to take it apart.....but the bolts in it were VERY tight and I'm unable to turn them without the whole unit turning in my hands. Also, with the bolts between the flanges, they're near impossible for me to reach with a socket.... so I pull out my 3/4" crows foot and get a clamp. (this is where the 1066 comes in. Note my cheater bar that I had on my breaker bar. My 3/4" crows foot snapped in half!! I do not have arms of steel.... quite the opposite. Shoulder surgery on one arm, other arm recently broken, then I broke the wrist on my first arm.... so I have what I affectionately call noodle arms. I tried to use the clamp to hole the motor from rotating while I grasped it with my knees and used my noodles to cheat a bit.... and that ()*#$_+)#$*#_} crows foot snapped in half. I am however, a persistent type and an idea struck me. The manual calls for holding this in a vice and, I don't have a vice. The closest thing I have to a vice is the wood clamp. As a side note, I am not "without vice", but that said, I don't have a vice. You figure it out!! I DO however, have an industrial backhoe.....so it dawned on me that I can maybe use it for some help! Used my home-made vice and took my 3/4" combo wrench along with a 5 lb hammer and got the bolts loosened. Now to get it apart. First thing to know is "the book" says to simply "place your thumbs on the shaft and gently apply pressure to lift apart...you may need to tap on side to break it apart" I don't know what or who they are talking to..... that was written for Shirley Temple. There was no way this was coming apart that easy, so I had to cheat. I got my little cheater out and got it apart very easy. Got it apart and discovered that I had say, 10 replacement pieces.....but only 6 in there. Do I need to force the extras in there? They DO show in the book but not in the motor itself. (answer is no, turns out I received parts for both versions of the motor and one of them doesn't use them and the other does) So yesterday, I'm putting one back....need to torque the bolts down. Now that I know what I know, I'll wait until I get it into place before torqueing down..... the 2" torque wrench adapter/extender (not sure exactly what it's called) snapped on me. I didn't get the first one tightened down. Stupid thing is (supposed to be) made in USA. Forget the brand but I read they primarily dealt with military and today might be out of business (??) None the less, it broke so now I need a new one. Decided to just get a Snap-on. It's available and it also gives the amount of torque its rated for. So now I wait for it to arrive however, have the third (of three) left to rebuild so have some time while I wait delivery.
  14. Coytee

    Work boots

    Letting your inner crazy show??!! ?
  15. Hate to be the bearer of negative news.... my understanding is as long as the battery is IN the phone, it's able to 'phone home'. Turning it off does NOT disable it. If you genuinely want to disable the phone you have to physically remove the battery.... that is when it will go off grid. I said years ago that the day may come when we get a "phone ticket".... meaning what is speed? Distance divided by time. So if my PHONE arrives in Florida in say, 7 hours and Florida is for example 600 miles away then in order for my phone (therefore me) to arrive in Florida in 7 hours, my AVERAGE speed has to be 85 MPH. Average speed meaning, when I'm leaving my driveway, when I'm slowing down for a stop sign, when I'm going through town....NOT just when I'm on the highway. So if my average speed has to be 85 MPH and I drove normal through town then I defacto had to be driving at "X" MPH over the speed limit....so here is your ticket in the mail. The towers can ping you along the way (or vice versa?) so "they can know" because you have your tattletale with you. I like the Hillary method.... smash them to smithereens!!
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