Jump to content

Coytee

Members
  • Content Count

    426
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

43 Excellent

About Coytee

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Knoxville, TN

Recent Profile Visitors

886 profile views
  1. Criminal (but nice) pictures from a criminal mastermind. Today, you subvert the trackhoe....tomorrow what will it be? a post hole digger???!!!
  2. Just went out to get a picture. I would have expected to see threads of some form or another.....then again, other than the screw in port in the PTO of my 1066, I'm rather ignorant of the variants. I've gotta guess that I'm not going to walk into Tractor Supply and find something to fit this machine (??)
  3. I do have a service manual. At least an electronic version PDF. I don't know how accurate/complete it is. Thanks for your thoughts... they seem consistent that the issue is in the pump verses the secondary pump at base of steering column. I pressure washed the pump area last night... Looking at buying some adapters to pressure test. The adapters appear to be threaded/screw on and the port on the machine appears to be smooth with a lock shoulder around it (much like the male end that goes into a tractor remote). Heh, I was going to simply go out, yank pump off and get it in my hands, maybe take things apart, to gauge how it looks.... then realized pump is attached to hose, hose is attached to tank... I don't know how much fluid is at risk of coming out but I need to be prepared to capture all of it lest I have a real mess!
  4. Might have figured it out, had to cut some pages out to make it simple "Steering page 009" is the pump I'm referring to.
  5. I'm stumped.... thought I had the answer and now I'm not sure. I have a JCB industrial backhoe/loader. It's a 1550B (circa 1987) and will dig a two foot flat bottom at 15 1/2 feet. Symptom: Drive to somewhere, say other side of farm. Use machine for few minutes to tidy up what is going to be a burn pile. Get off machine (leave running) while I ignite the burn pile (some complete trees so it's a big pile). Get back on machine and now, it's near impossible to turn steering wheel. It WILL turn but very 'herky/jerky". Driving machine home (after putting fire out since I was leaving area) I discovered that if I feathered throttle a bit, the wheel would loosen up a bit and allow some steering. It's now the second time in a row that this has happened. I would also describe it as, get into your old car/truck that has a power steering pump, start driving and then SNIP the belt to the pump and now, the effort to turn your wheels just went skyhigh. I'd say this is very similar to that (there is no belt on it. It's direct gear driven) Just today, testing it in driveway, happened again. Seems to run and turn ABSOLUTELY fine with NO issues at all..... until it warms up. Initially, I had thought that I was low on hydraulic fluid so hoisted a 5 gallon bucket up and promptly over filled it. (you can NOT tell the fluid level once it's above site glass, the fluid is very clear) I also SOMETIMES hear a bit of a whine that strikes me as new (I've owned this for near 20 years). This faint whine is why I "knew" it was low on oil, and was proved wrong. Talk to dealer who's 90 miles away. He's concluding that my pump is going/has gone bad on me... saying that while cold, the fluid is thick and when it warms up, the fluid (didn't catch what he said) but when warm, the fluid will "go there", maybe through a bypass ?? Anyway, that's my issue so I need to buy a new pump. I've been playing tag with a shop about acquiring a pump and it dawned on me.... I think this has a screen filter for the steering pump. I would imagine that if that screen was clogging, I might experience the same issues, no?? However at the same time, it might be intermittent and maybe sometimes I'd NOT have an issue.... and I would also think that I'd have the issue with cold or hot fluid. I'm attaching a PDF I have (if it will work). The pump is at the bottom. Dealer said this is the first pump to look at and if it doesn't fix it, then to look at the (I don't know the name) I've always called it a "hand pump", the one at the BASE of the steering wheel. This " hand pump" went out on our IH-444 (see how I figured out how to make this forum relevant!!) Anyway, it went out on the 444 and leaked like a sieve. I took it apart, put new stuff in it and now it works totally fine. It would TURN fine before, it just leaked like there is no tomorrow. On my backhoe, I'm having different symptoms.... no leaks, but difficult turn when warm. Curious if anyone has other thoughts other than perhaps driving it into said burn pile. Oh, and I have been told the pump is NOT user serviceable but when I look at the diagram, I'm wondering why?? Looks simple enough to take apart. As a treat, I'll see if I can find one of my old burn piles. Look for the backhoe in the BACKGROUND. I'm known as the local pyromaniac. Had about seven of these burn/slash piles after the farm was timbered. Appreciate any thoughts on the steering. Well crap. I have a PDF from the manual....and can't connect a PDF file to illustrate the steering circuit.
  6. Well 'Yikes" is about all I can think of.... It DOES seem to be a bit obtuse but for the efforts mentioned above, I think I can just live with it folded away. I removed the pin that links the lower arm to the adjustable vertical arms so now, the lower arm would be just flopping on the ground. I raised it to near vertical and wrapped some temporary wire around the upper arm (Rockshaft arm?) Today, if you look at the back side, both lower 3-pt arms are straight up. The adjustable arms are next to them and all that is being held in place by some wires until I could figure out how to remove lower arms. After reading above, I don't think I even want to fool with trying to remove them (though I'm sure I'll give it a modest attempt) Now that I'm not snapping 540 shafts, I'm pretty content. As for grinding.... not sure I care to do that. I would not want to grind any of the bracket that holds the increaser.... so that's out of the equation which means I'd have to grind on the stabilizer part which is now, simply laying out of the way, dormant. I don't know how this is going to end up.... but I don't care to spend the time with some of the above wrestles to remove the pin. If I can wiggle it out, great, if not, it will stay put and I'll figure something else out. All these are an easier issue to deal with than snapping 540's like popcorn.
  7. Looking to remove both of my lower link arms. Got to looking at the attachment point and when the retaining bolt comes off along with (what I'll call) the retaining ring.... the pin that holds the arms on looks to have two flat sides (that the ring holds onto).... Does this pin "simply" (hahahaha) pull out, is it threaded and those flat sides are used to unscrew it? It was closing in on dark yesterday so I simply took both lower arms and raised them to vertical, strapping them to the upper arm so they are not dragging.....waiting until later to try to remove. If you wonder why I'm trying to remove them.... You may recall that I snapped several 540 shafts while using a hydraulic powered mower. Caught some various comments about my attempts... None the less, the REST of the story? Turns out the stabilizer control which is connected to both lower arms.... rotates in/out as the arms widen/narrow.... the arms would flop a bit as tractor was being used, this would cause stabilizer to rotate in/out.... when rotating out, it would just barely hit the lower lip of the mounting bracket for the speed increaser.... slowly bending the bracket just enough to cause sideways pressure on the 540 shaft and snapping it. I disconnected the parts to the stabilizer, held the arms to the side and viola, problem is fixed!!! Now, I want to simply remove the arms so they're out of the way (since this is a dedicated mower machine).... toss the arms into garage until further use. Which brings me back to.... how best to extract the pin that is holding the arms on? They are now, totally removed from any/everything but for that pin. It doesn't seem to have any wiggle.... put a wrench on the flat sides to see if it would wiggle there and so far, no luck however, I've not put any oomph into it so I don't crank on the wrong item. Looking at the schematic from CASEIH, it appears to be nothing more than a pin that should slide in/out. All I'm really looking for is clarification of that fact and are there any tricks to pull it out. Oh, and I do NOT have a welder so tack welding something to it to use a slide hammer isn't going to be easily accomplished. There doesn't seem to be any access from the back side where it can be hammered/tapped out?
  8. I suppose this will be a dumb question but why not put a truck (or anything that would fit/work) on it?? I don’t hear with my eyes so to me, who cares what it looks like as long as it quiets things down??
  9. Right.... so what I'm trying to learn is what is the range between clutches not releasing and moving in TA (if I understand your thoughts correctly) Is that range 10 rotations, 4 rotations or .03859390583038 of a rotation? If "close enough" is close enough, then fine. Does out of adjustment cause any wear issues? If so, I want to get it as close as I can. Signed, Very
  10. Was out yesterday cutting a field... noticed it was getting "weird" on shifting... got worse... Then it got absolutely obtuse. Long story short, found out the adjustment rod on the dump valve (lock nut) had come loose and it decided to self adjust, making things go haywire. As I was busy away from home, didn't have any tools, not even a pair of pliers (why is a single tool called a pair of pliers??!!) So, did some quick finger adjustments and got it acceptable. Got home and did a quick adjustment again and tightened down the lock nut. Still a bit buggy.... so that's what's got me wondering just how fussy is it? Is it going to get buggy if it's off by 10 turns? how about 3 turns? How about a half of a turn? As this is my first dump valve machine, I have no background and am just trying to know how precise it has to be. (1066)
  11. That was also my understanding (and why I grabbed them)
  12. Couldn't give you a size other than I was at the auto parts store and they were on the wall. If memory serves me, I misspoke a slight bit.... The fabricator guy near me made a cable for me out of welders wire. So, three of them are store bought and that one is a larger diameter wire.
  13. New cables too however, they're a more typical 12v cable and not one of those monster welder sized cables I've seen. (so perhaps that is also a consideration) So to recap since it's been a bit disjointed (by me) New wiring harness New Ignition New Ammeter New lights (all the way around) 2-new 12V batteries (long skinny type) 4 new battery cables New alternator New dash light fixtures & bulbs New Tellite fixture & bulb I didn't change out the clutch safety switch All that said, I can't think of much else that's electric that wasn't touched or replaced. I'll try to test in place out in the field or fire it up and bring it home to tinker on. I appreciate the shared wisdom, thank you.
  14. It's new too (I realize that doesn't mean it couldn't have a bad diode) I like the idea of doing batteries first, then pull starter off.
×
×
  • Create New...