Coytee

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About Coytee

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    Knoxville, TN

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  1. I'm going to need to buy a new battery for my 1066. Right now, I don't have any trays (stock) for a battery. Prior owner fabricated some trays for a battery (larger squarish one). I'm thinking I'd like to go to the long skinny type (12-volt). I see them on Ebay/other....but am still not clear how/where they mount. Makes me wonder if I'm missing something or just don't see the pattern on the tractor. Would someone consider taking a picture of how each battery tray actually mounts to their 1066 so I'll maybe have an idea if I already have the right parts (less the tray) Also, do I understand there is a "lid" that goes with them? I'm guessing the lid has the hold down arms to keep the battery from bouncing around?? Here's what I have. Don't know how clear it is but he has a rubber bungee cord holding it down. (yeah, it does seem to work) I don't like it though. Also, I think the skinny battery will simply tuck away better.
  2. Coytee

    Adjusting MCV question

    All good info for a casual reader. Most of the fields here tend to be open & flat. We do have some hills....but using an IH 444 for the last 20 years with ZERO brakes has created habits in me to simply presume I need to turn/park accordingly so I'm not pointed up/down a hill. That said, we have a field that's not been cut in probably 10 years and it's a jungle over there. Fortunately it's pretty small....indeed, probably smaller than your front yard. That is where I personally got into my quagmire but I was still on level ground so brakes/no brakes would have not been a problem for me at that location. I do remember, years ago, I rented a Kubota L-35 as I needed a backhoe. I got to the back side of the farm where you are on a hill. The Kubota is their GST where you can shift on the fly.... what I didn't know at the time (as I had never driven one before) is it stops, hydraulically shifts to a neutral gear, then hydraulically puts you into your next gear selection.... well...when you are pointed straight up/down a reasonable incline and it unexpectedly (to you) shifts into neutral....it starts to free-wheel.... For the first 34 nano-seconds I didn't know what was happening, then realized what was going on. I had to grab the steering wheel to hold myself and put as much pressure on the brake as I could while it changed gears. I was shocked at how little brake pressure that tractor had.... I was hanging onto the steering wheel for dear life trying to put pressure on the brake pedal...of course, the fact that I was bouncing while going (forward? backward? I don't remember) down the hill probably had something to do with my inability to effectively brake the machine. Today, you might call me overly cautious! Been there & learned my lessons, had the mark in my pants to prove it!
  3. Coytee

    Adjusting MCV question

    At the risk of sounding like a pest... I just got done looking in Craigslist and Ebay for pressure testing kits.... seem they are all over the place. Since I don't own one, never have, I'm not sure which one would be the correct one for me to use. Would you consider a link to one where you'd be comfortable saying "this one will take care of your needs" (I appreciate it)
  4. Coytee

    Adjusting MCV question

    Can you enlighten me what gauge I'd use and what values I might look for during the adjustment stage? (or is it more of "pressure off, pressure on" situation??)
  5. Coytee

    Adjusting MCV question

    Interesting little tidbit (thank you). I have presumed that simply I could as a fail safe, (an inconvenient one), simply killed the engine, made my gear change then started it back up but that's a pain in the hiney. Obviously, much better to fix it correctly.
  6. Coytee

    Adjusting MCV question

    Have the 1066. I made comment once about clutching it and gears not disengaging... I was told I might need to adjust the MCV / clutch but, to use the light on the dash as my guide when adjusting. Looking at the service manual, I was wondering where the sending unit is/was.... if I understand this correctly, it's on the right side of the MCV unit (correct?) I don't yet seem to have any dash lights working, not sure that I want to wait until I dig into / replace (?) the wiring harness as I don't yet know it needs it. Got me wondering, could I just go to the sending unit and check a signal straight off of it? If so, would I be best to use a DMM and look for a certain voltage at certain times or, am I better off just making a backyard light (automotive type) to wire in and use so the light will illuminate when appropriate? As a side question... what is actually going on in the tractor to not allow the gear to disengage? I was cutting a back part of the farm, needed to go from forward to reverse and the lever was stuck in forward. I had to rock the machine (let clutch out, tractor lurched forward....during the lurch, re-clutch and pull into neutral) I've dealt with engines/clutches before but I'm ignorant here... you push the clutch in and it would/should disengage the transmission from the power of the engine. What would be pressurizing the transmission (what, where, how and WHY?) to prevent the transmission from being altered, thusly requiring this MCV adjustment? ??
  7. This tractor is open station but it has a set of bars that might have been for a canopy (might be a ROPS) I need to get a picture I guess but my question is, must this 'ROPS' be removed to take the brake outer housing off? It looks on a glance that there is only 1/4" of clearance there but for all I know, the housing can slide straight off (sideways) and not need to be lifted out. I don't know if that makes sense... can get pictures later but the bolts & mounting stuff for the 'rops' is VERY close to the brake assembly.
  8. I hate to keep asking what might be beginner questions.....but..... since I'm a beginner, I'll wear the hat!! Scenario: Have the new to me 1066. I now have six buckets (30 gallons) of Hytrans in my garage. Waiting for warmer weather to change oil. Meantime, for those who might remember, I have a metallic 'rubbing' noise coming from the 'lower right rear' (from perspective of sitting in seat). My guess at the time was one of the axle bearings was going bad... I was told jack it up, see if there is play in the axle as evidenced by the tire moving up/down. I didn't perceive any BUT, might have done poor job at the test so I'll still rate that a "I'm not sure". Alas....it could be the brakes... Here's the thrust of my question... *IF* the bearing is my problem... does that get washed with Hytrans? Something else?? I don't want to warm tractor up, pull to garage, dump all the oil replace with Hytrans only to find out later that my bearing is bad and my Hytrans is now polluted. Should I first, ascertain if it's the brake or the axle PRIOR to changing Hydraulic fluid? (I'm thinking this would be prudent) Second question regarding the brake... as I was driving home today, I was thinking how could I do a quick-check on the brake?? My question is, "would this work?" I don't know the size, but I was thinking I could remove suspect brake assembly, plug hydraulic feed tube...take for quick spin in our (flat) field. I'll know immediately if the metallic sound is gone or not. If it's gone, that's going to be strong indication that it's the brakes....if it's not, then something else. (I think I'd have an issue with the Bull gear (?) Bull Pinion (?) forget what it's called....flapping around so what if I gutted the brake container, put container back on to hold the bull gear? hmmm... now that I actually type that out, I'm thinking that it's the brake pads/friction disks that actually do the holding of the bull gear so I don't think that will work. crap (yeah, partially thinking out loud while fingers are typing)
  9. Coytee

    Couple more 1066 questions

    Interesting to know, thank you. I was going to ask how I might know and was planning on taking a better picture of it... I'll look. (though I don't recall any tag sticking out as noticible to me....but we'll see, I wasn't LOOKING for a tag to stand out!)
  10. Coytee

    Couple more 1066 questions

    Regarding the pictures, This is old...I didn't take it with the rops & mount in mind....but it's what I have without walking out there. I have ZERO canopy for it....just the surrounding bars like you see (and appear like in your pictures) I've never taken a link cover off.... have to look into it. I don't relish the idea of muscling 5-6 buckets up this high and holding them while it glugs away, standing in an awkward/precarious position.
  11. Coytee

    Couple more 1066 questions

    1. I THINK mine had a canopy at one time. It has the frame going around the driver that the canopy would otherwise bolt to. (I refrain from calling it a ROPS until I confirm). That's my question, how do I know if I have a ROPS or just a frame for the canopy? 2. I think prior owner was perhaps restoring the tractor. I don't really know. Both of the fenders are primed and that's it. If I had to guess, I'd say they where bought primed and installed but again, I don't know. None the less.... they have TWO 'pockets' for fender lights on each of them. My question is, do those fender lights use the same lights as the front headlights? If not, what goes in there? 3. When the Hytrans is replaced.... any reason to flush system (since I don't know it's history)? 4. On actually refilling the Hytrans, just pull dipstick at transmission & pour away? Any reason to have tractor idle during process? (to help pump it to other locations in machine)
  12. Coytee

    257 Bulbs Getting Hard to Come By

    Got it, thanks. I guess it will make sense once I actually focus on it and do it.
  13. Cancel.... I clicked into each one and saw that AFTER you drilled into the description, it told you which tractor it fit! where's my coffee......
  14. Coytee

    257 Bulbs Getting Hard to Come By

    Not an argument, but more a comment of confusion... Other day, I stopped at tractor. Yeah it was cold so my fingers weren't 100% but it wasn't THAT cold. I was totally unable to move/budge, unthread, unsnap the red cover which leads me to presume it's somehow fastened from the rear? (much like the key has the threaded portion behind the dash to hold the assembly) ?? I know I'm going to take the dash apart again so I'll find out in due time....I am just choosing to ignore it right now until it warms up. (don't like working outside in cold if I don't need to....since we have no shed to break the wind, I wait!)
  15. Coytee

    257 Bulbs Getting Hard to Come By

    Question if this is the one on the lower right side of the dash on a 1066, used for adjusting the hydraulic pressure when fiddling with the clutch... does the red cover come off or do you have to gain access through the back side (removing a panel somewhere) Stopped by tractor today as I was out on the backhoe & tried to remove the red cover.... it wasn't budging which suggests to me it's rear entry. (not a huge issue as I intend to replace other bulbs in there so will be getting back inside the dash) I was trying to satisfy my curiosity on how to remove it and was thwarted so merrily went on my way.