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About Coytee

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    Knoxville, TN

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  1. I don't work in the field of my degree. My degree is (what was then called) Personnel Management or now, we'd call it Human Resources. During my senior year, I had a (required) class for Union Negotiations. It culminated with us dividing into teams (management verses union). I was the leader of the Management side. We had something like two hours to hammer out an agreement. We were the first to leave the room and were done within maybe 30 minutes. The teacher was floored. She immediately cornered us and started grilling us on how did we possibly finish so quickly? We (mainly myself I guess) said we looked at some of their requests. Some were reasonable, some were not. We went over the reasonable ones and cleared them (accepted). We then went to the more difficult ones and proposed what we felt to be fair middle ground solutions. The other side could see we were operating with good faith so they also operated in good faith. There were none of the (typical?) us verses them shennagians causing one or both sides to entrench. We (as management) genuinely adopted the 'lets take care of everyone' attitude. Seemed to be the honest and fair thing to do. I have ALWAYS felt that there are at times, there was a 100% need for a Union. There are also times a Union is 100% NOT needed. I think it always falls back to the simple Golden Rule philosophy.
  2. I pretty much agree with this, 100% (financial advisor for 34+ years and still going)
  3. I used one growing up. Faded memory says it was also electric start (I remember having to move that confounded battery to the kitchen to charge it when done) None the less.... my recollection of it (I'd call it mid 70's) it was as reliable as an anvil. I don't recall it ever giving me any issues. Light weight so I was able to push it with good ground speed. We had a large yard with a slope on part of it so I'd push it up the slope and "trot" after turning around to go back down the slope. The trot was really a VERY brisk walk but, the mower just ate whatever was before it. I really don't recall ANY negatives with that thing.....to the point that today, 40 years later, I was debating a mower for my front yard (back is landscaped so no mower needed). Debated specifically getting a LawnBoy but instead, got a riding mower which was replaced with another, and another...... and now, I have the Deere 430 mower that I got specifically because of its being diesel and me wanting to get away from all the gas cans laying around. Since I already stock about 45 gallons of diesel, I thought it made a lot of sense. Was a good decision for me.
  4. (Just got home from work) I got to thinking about this....and given my forgetting the name, it dawned on me that it's certainly possible that I asked them about HiGuard..... to which he was answering my question, letting me know it's totally different (and I still have no clue). But if that's the case then it's certainly reasonable that he was telling me how different it was while I was "knowing" in the back of my head that Hytrans and MasterTrans were the same thing.....and we both could have been right. What I was trying to ask him was is Hytrans the same price as MasterTrans..... I'd have to presume they're the same but until you ask..... and I never got an answer because I may have asked the wrong question. I almost called them on the way home but I hit some pretty rural areas and the phone dies....AND it's not THAT big of a deal. But I'm resigned that I probably asked him the wrong question about Higuard. Oops.... then I get to compound that by publicizing here that I likely asked a stupid question! Double Oops!
  5. Now that I reflect, I think the "Hyguard" is John Deere (that I use for my riding mower). Mastertran, that's it. (Ultraction if I recall?). I've not been able to find the 5-gallon buckets in either location/city for a lessor price. He did say that they had a price increase 'a while back' but I have no clue what that means. I'm just glad the total fluid exchange is done and now I'm on "keep it full" for a while verses having to flush it all again. Makes for expensive upkeep on a lawn mower (I only use 1066 to pull 15' flexwing) Doesn't Case now own NH??? My understanding is this location is a dealer of both (but I will say I only noticed Case machines behind their building so maybe this isn't .......the case HA!)
  6. and it's not a 'what should be used' question!! My 'local' Case dealer is 50/60 miles away (I have a "local" NH dealer that is maybe 25 miles away but I didn't know this two years ago) None the less.... I had bought a supply of Hytrans to do a complete oil change when I got my 1066. Bought a couple buckets at a time when I was in the neighboring town. Got it done, had a couple extra buckets. I then discovered the NH delaer that was much much closer AND I get to that little town far more often than I get to the original town....so all is good. I've been told that the Case/IH Hytrans is 100% identical to the NH (I forget their exact name....Hyguard??). So I bought two buckets of that after all the dust had settled. Enter Covid and (for work) I'm stuck working out of my basement for 18 months so no trips to either town for work purposes (I get paid mileage so figure I'll get reimbursed for the drive to wherever I go, as long as I can weave it into a trip for work) Fortunately for last 18 months, I've not needed any of these fluids. Things are changing and now I'm allowed back on the road for work. I'm heading to the original town where the Case dealer is. I figure since I'm there I'll buy a bucket ($125). They had a pallet of Hytrans sitting by the door AND on the opposite side of the door, they had a pallet of (Hyguard?).... told the guy I came to get a bucket. As I was paying, it dawned on me to ask about the price of them in case they had a different price on them.....given it's the 'same thing', why not. The guy was ADAMENT that they were NOT the same thing. He got into saying Hytrans (I have no idea what he exactly said so bear with this paraphrase).... Hytran is a 10-30 weight, ISO 100 and has a WQ rating of 5 Hyguard is a 15-45 weight, ISO 62 and a WQ rating of 7 (again, the above isn't likely correct, point is, he spouted off a lot of technical jargon) "Totally different items for different applications" I'm not an engineer nor their employee.... so I am not going to put my understanding against someone like that.... so I just nodded & left. I thought that was interesting, and then I realized.... I didn't really LOOK at the buckets sitting on the other side of the door and I don't really KNOW that they were in fact, Hyguard (or whatever the NH name is, I am blank right now).... so it's possible that he was right, if in fact, they had something there that was NOT what I was presuming it to be. I had higher priority things to go get done than to fret over what he said or what I saw..... I just thought it was interesting on how insistent he was that the two were different (under the presumption that it WAS Hyguard sitting by the door) I never did find out how much that bucket cost.
  7. Very cool!!! Now....what happens to the first person who's driving it and brings it back with a scratch on it???
  8. I didn't add that some of that required paperwork has to be court certified AND that stamp has to be less than (if I recall) 60 days old. So if you get a Letter of Testamentary, get it stamped.....then find out your state requires you to ALSO have a Tax Waiver......and you send off for that and it takes 61 days to arrive, you have to march BACK to the court to get another form that's not stale. If you don't know this, send everything it, it gets rejected and you're starting from scratch. I once had a guy come to office and certificates were in: 1. Fathers name (passed away 20 years prior) 2. Joint with Mother (who just then passed) and Father 3. Mother alone The Joint mother/father shares took about six MONTHS to fix because he had to go back to reopen his fathers estate since his mother never fixed it. Was a mess. Don't. Just don't.
  9. Not related to you.... this is a general comment. As a practical matter, you (speaking in general, not directed to you specifically) don't ever want to hold physical certificates in your hands or safe deposit box/other. If you have one, you might have several (certificates) Why? Say that a train hits you and now you are plowing the great fields in the sky, what happens? Someone (during a sad time because of your loss) has to find the certificate, get a death certificate, get a Letter of Testamentary and possibly an Affidavit of Domicile. Send all this legal paperwork in with the certificate so it can be put into an account and then, distributed (perhaps per the Will) Thing is, what if you have 20 different stocks? (as in 20 different companies) Now your survivor has to do this 20 different times. Having helped people with this over the years, let me be blunt..... you are going to put them through a GRIND. What I tell people is "if you are mad at your spouse/child (whomever will settle your estate) and you want to get one last final poke in their eye, then leave it as it is....because you are making it as difficult as possible for them......if instead, you love them and want to make things much more easy.... then deposit those shares into an account via your SIGNATURE (verses them getting all sorts of legal documents) and then on that account, put whomever down as a "TOD" (Transfer on Death) BENEFICIARY and totally avoid probate for these shares of stock. I just cringe when I hear about people holding shares..... generally speaking, they do not know the mess they are sitting on that they can totally fix with a couple strokes of their pen verses forcing their loved ones the hassle of going through the legal document process and then probate with it. I know that nobody here really knows me....nor likely really cares and I'm fine with that if that's the reality. Of what experience do I speak? I've been in the financial industry for 34 years and have come across this situation far too many times. If you love your loved ones, heed the above. If instead, you're holding a grudge on them and want to put them through the grind when you're gone, don't change a thing! Also, if you decide to make that new brokerage account joint with a child (for example) so the funds are theirs on your passing, DON'T do that either. You want them to INHERIT the stock, not have them gifted. If you put their name on said account, you are giving them half the shares AND half of your cost basis. You want them to get the stepped up cost basis at (your) death. None of the above is investment advice, just a PSA trying to offer some of my experience back to those who's wisdom I've tried to absorb. If anyone has any questions, I'm happy to explain further. You may now go about your daily business.
  10. Thank you 1. I intend to take them apart if for no other reason than I am a highly curious type as to how things work. 2. Didn't know they might need to be reset/calibrated, good to know. I would have thought you pop them in and consider it a day. 3. I might end up having to take them to a shop... but for the good job on the motors.....that was done by me, cold turkey. I had never seen the inside of one and just dove into it to figure it out. Like I said, I am a highly curious type and (for good or bad) I'm confident enough in my abilities that really, nothing intimidates me. It might be TOO MUCH for me to deal with, but I usually discover that after I've taken it apart. I was very careful and meticulous when I did these so I personally am 100% confident in their current integrity. I'm probably set for another eye opening event when I finally get new blades on this. Farmer who sold it to me said they were 20 years old. (maybe he didn't use it that much?) they do not have that rounded off "butter knife" leading edge. Still pretty square though a number of dents/nicks in them from hitting rocks over the years. I wanted to get the operational base of the machine in good order before I potentially wasted money on new blades (and turned out to have worthless motors to drive them) Now that I know the motors are good, the blades will be next.
  11. Sorry, missed that. The mower was made as a "Terrain King" brand. Terrain King was bought by Alamo so now, if you look up an Alamo "Falcon" flexwing mower, that is the evolution of this mower. This mower was originally bought by the local airport. I understand that they had 3-5 of them to keep the place taken care of. For whatever reasons, they sold one or all of them, no clue. I bought this from the farmer that bought it from the airport. https://www.messicks.com/blog/alamo-falcon-15-flex-wing-mower
  12. My luck I'd attach it to the wrong one! Heck, I'd probably have to buy yet another mower at everyone's discretion!! I really don't have any issues here with anyone. Heck, I even appreciated the comments that J-Mech sometimes gave... I just see little point in people (in general) trying to be moronic and sanctimonious about things. If you have something (helpful) to say, say it. If you want to pick on someone and make them the brunt of a joke so everyone can get a laugh, have at it... but condescending attitudes aren't very constructive for anyone and really tell more about the person giving them than anyone receiving them. Especially when you don't know blip about the person. I did a cursory look around on reliefs... I'm seeing them in the ballpark of $50/60 though I don't think they're the exact style I need. I'll ask the hydraulic shop about parts but I might just replace them. Dirt-Floor-Poor: I agree with shaft drives can also have their share of problems. I thought this was a bit different in what it might do for me and got it for 'dirt floor' pricing so didn't have much to lose. (Cheesy pun intended). I knew I'd have a learning opportunity in front of me and I've learned a lot. From what I understand (and I'm by no means any expert about this stuff) the issue with something like this is the transmission of power sufficient enough to do the job. Therefore you have to sandwich in what they call a 'speed increaser'. So I have this thing bolted to the PTO that takes the 540 PTO and increases the speed of it by a factor of four. This high spinning rate is then what powers the hydraulic pump and I believe that's the key to this working well. You have to get the hydraulic pressure high enough to work the motors. Prior to rebuilding the motors (that operate each blade spindle) I could rotate the motors by hand. After I rebuilt them, I had to take a pipe wrench to them to get enough force on them to turn them (as per the book instructions). My finish mower will cut the yard/field in front of the house. If the grass is long, it will leave clippings and some mulching. This mower pretty much obliterates everything it rolls over (save fallen branches but sometimes those too) When I was in the field with the grass not cut for 8 months, it was waist high. When the (good cutting) blade went over it, it was cut, sliced, diced and pretty nicely mulched. I didn't have any 'ripped out and spit out' long grass to speak of. It really does seem to be a cutting monster.
  13. The rest of the story: To those who say I need to junk this and as I recall " buying a good Bush Hog or Schuldte, or whatever fits everyones fancy." I'll certainly still continue to read selectively what you have to say as I sometimes find it of value and other times... not as much. I'm not into buying what fits everone elses fancy, I'd rather do my own research. That said, I went out today after work. I was going to swap motors and see what happens... got to thinking as I looked at it. I can swap the pressure relief valves easier/faster than the motor so let's start there. Swapped the outer two (inner one has different relief pressure so it stays). Noticed that the units seemed to both be intact with no internal seals broken/missing that I could see. It looks like it comes apart and I did not take it apart (yet). The outer seal on each had a small slice on it from when it was tightened down. I presumed that since I see no external leak there, that O-ring is at least good enough for now. Went out to cut a swath and "wow". Couple things changed. 1. The limp side has now flipped, pretty much confirming that the relief valve is not holding. The previously limp side is cutting like a bandit and the previous bandit side is now getting limp. (and to think I was going to buy an entire 15' flexwing for what will be the cost of a new pressure relief! Well, in fairness, I've decided that I'll probably replace all three of them so I was going to buy an entire 15' flexwing for the cost of three relief valves. I'm glad I don't listen blindly to everyone I read on the internet, seems they don't always know what they're talking about and jump the gun at times!) 2. The entire time I've had the mower, it has N.E.V.E.R. made a sound from the relief valves operating. Today, I hit a thick spot and heard a bit of a whistle that I'd never heard so now I know I've got a valve popping off. 3. The 1066 has N.E.V.E.R. bogged down with the mower. I'm guessing it's because the valve was leaking and never fully fighting back (and the older seals that have now been replaced). I don't know if there was some crud in there or not (I didn't see any) but when I got to a thick spot, the engine got bogged down a bit. Push clutch, RPM's come back up, I see grass flying, move forward and it's a clean cut. Meanwhile, the other side was ripping to shreds what came before it. It's a bit like it's been awakened but still tired on one side (with the now known to be bad relief valve) 4. Decided that I'll first, take the valves apart. I have NO idea what's in them, the manual doesn't get into that. Their commentary is simply to replace them. I'll know more when I dig into them. If it looks like they can be rebuilt (I have no idea) I'll rebuild them. Otherwise, I'll just buy new ones and move on. So thinking off the top of my head, I have a VERY ugly hydraulic mower. Pump has been rebuilt, all motors rebuilt. Soon, the pressure reliefs will be fixed. Thing cuts like a bandit when it's not slowed down. I can turn tractor to it 90 degrees and literally pivot the mower on the inside wheel, making a circle if I want/need to cut it that tight. I can raise a wing 90 degrees if I want (and I do NOT want to) to cut an embankment. I DO let it ride up the embankment but I don't raise it to make that happen. Slapped a new hose on it, rebuilt the lift cylinders and replaced the hydraulic fluid. I've got about $3,500/$3,800 in it. I'll bet that would fit some folks fancy.
  14. There is no check ball inside the motors. There is always room for mistakes but all the seals inside the motors have been replaced. I don't know the GPM. If I recall, the tank holds "about" 10/15 gallons HOWEVER if you look at the picture, they have four 'cooling channels' that are part of the frame and oil flows through those as well. I think the total volume is perhaps as much as 40 gallons. (interestingly on the newer models, they have a much larger tank and did away with the cooling channels) Yeah, Mr. Budget carries a pretty heavy hammer.... Funny how easy it is for some to be critical when it's not their wallet doing any of the talking. I paid $2,000 for this, knew it needed some work and knew I'd be spending a bit.... right after I bought it, I found about 4 hours away, a 20' Schulte but by the time I reached them on the phone, it was gone (I think they were asking $6K). I don't know enough about the 1066 regarding PTO pressure verses the plates. I would have presumed the pressure helps clamp the plates to transmit the power....but I would have also presumed that if the plates had some wear and were thinned that you'd need to either apply more pressure or, replace the plates. Having not thought of the pressure part of the equation, this is why I initially asked about how to see if it was slipping. Given that the spring measured slightly short when I rebuilt it, I was associating the spring with the clamping pressure, not the hydraulic fluid. We've got a birthday party here today. I only have Saturday/Sunday to work on this type of thing as I'm busy during week. Wife won't want me to bring this to the driveway to 'ruin' the party, pushing me further behind.
  15. Forgotten is that in the beginning, I had a lot of troubles snapping the 540 shaft on the tractor (snapped it three times). As it turns out, it was the linkage that connects the lower arms to each other. When they moved, it moved hitting the multiplier attached to the 540 and putting side stress on it, snapping it. Interesting that nobody is noticing that the tractor itself caused my first issues until I got them figured out and took that linkage off. Be that as it may, I guess someone has to take J-Mech's place huh? I'm still awaiting donations from the constructive help crowd.... 🙂
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