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rustred

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Everything posted by rustred

  1. i see now, you have that old bosh pump on there so that is a very early 335 engine. from early 1940's. those engines do not have an actual solenoid. just the push button solenoid on top of starter. those pumps only had one filter. all fuel lines are different. plus there is a shield for under those filters for the ih pump. plus the primary filter has an adapter at the bottom of filter to make it fit in that housing. many are missing and the filter flopping around doing nothing.
  2. i was right at the ih dealer and the parts man said they are so old they are not in the system, that is more amazing than google. thought maybe someone had run into that size engine bore but not likely.
  3. that is correct, its 6 volt. maybe an auto or tractor wrecker you might find a used one. new will be expensive for what they are. i have one on my 806 and the inside has like a card in it instead of the coils. it overcharges so i just keep the alt. unplugged most of the time. and yes i know 560 is generator.
  4. ih # is 997417R91. 6 cyl. 3 9/16 x 1/8 .
  5. the contacts in your regulator are stuck closed. give it a tap once you shut the key off. you will see the needle go to centre. plus you are overcharging that is why the acid is leaking. .... replace regulator.
  6. and you are correct on that , as well i know that so that is why i said what i said. the shock load finished it off, due to the wear. if the tractor was new this would have not happened. so what is all this pin poking for, but thats alright i get to read more comments buddy...
  7. those are one of the best sounding J.D'S .always did like the sound of them even in the evening could her them for miles in the field. i bet those 2 will out pull the 830.
  8. did you loosen the oil drain plug first to drain off any antifreeze if there was any in the oil.? kind of a common procedure when you know you have coolant leaking into oil pan.
  9. you could pull the pan first . have a cardboard under it with rad full . then watch for drips on card board then inspect with a good light where they are coming from. can be a very slow drip . that would be the best thing to do, as taking apart first can be hit and miss on a slow leak.
  10. "... do they go all out once or does fatique take its toll over time?"... i was just answering the question you asked. and no front end loader wont do that. its physics. your welcome.
  11. you shock loaded a crack and that is the outcome.
  12. am not saying it will break all at once, but it is un necessary front weight that will do the damage in time. plain to see. pull it apart and inspect the crack you will see . the bounce finished it off.
  13. same thing as breaking a sick over your knee.
  14. plus it looks like your raking hay not spraying a crop.
  15. i hardly think so , what is the weight then of that sprayer. i am sure ur not driving with the front wheels off the ground. and if it bouced in the ruts and broke that tells the story.
  16. i think if you had over 400 lbs hanging off your belt buckle you would fall flat on your face too. weights go on the rear . if needed.
  17. you could use them for anything but mounting ties on.
  18. that is true . its just that the farmers were burning this cheap grade of fuel to save money, in the 30's and 40's, but in the end they ended up with worn out engines. so there was no saving. better off to just dump in 1/4 diesel fuel if you had two tanks. the engine has to be run HOT though.
  19. check the compression first and record it. set the valves to spec.( .017) . then recheck the compression. a valve set is part of a major tune up. as said the wires MUST be the wire core not carbon core. plus the timing has to be set to spec. it sure sounds like an exhaust flutter. plus you set the carb after the timing set, NOT before. open the main jet on the bottom 3-4 turns open at 5 turns the needle will be fully out of the seat for heavy pulling. set the mixture screw at 3/4 turn out. idle screw is 400 rpm. tractor should be starting with 1/2 a revolution crank, meaning when 1 cyl fires it should be running.
  20. is it just for looks or to run distillate? as disitllate is obsolete and you dont want to burn that garbage anyhow and wash down cyl. walls then burn oil.
  21. the springs are there for a reason. you will break off the governor arm on the housing this way. you have no cushion now.
  22. i am not sure if they fit each other but didnt think so. years back i put the whole international 560 front end on my super w6 . al i did was shorten the stay rod a couple inches. lots better front end , not like those old worn out w6 tie rods. plus both had 18" tires so no problem there. you might have to physically try each one to find out.
  23. yes u asked for info... i said check compression. that is the first step. u came back talking about investigating the problem . so yes it gets a person annoyed that you asked and then were told how to find problem by did not procede to do it. i expected you compression readings posted next . no different that diagnosing over the ph from work. is was told check compression and did not then i better have some explaining to do to the higher ups. its just the procedure in diagnosing. it dont bother me cause i just try to help everyone out. even j mech was good but he could not stand when people didnt listen either. u got free good proper info so use it. i dont use sugar an anything so i guess that hurts some feelings. .... ooh and yes stompin top sings that song. we had a saying at work "good help is hard to come by". so thank you and good luck .
  24. well i started my super w6 gas i have not had running for a few years. so i thought of this 5 gear thing. i put it in 5 th gear right on the yard at 1/4 throttle and it took off no problem went down the road 1/2 mile and back stopped a couple times to see what you are complaining about the the tractor takes off with no effort. but yes pulling a load behind you need to start in 4th and shift. so if its not taking off in high gear you have other problems.
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