rustred

be sure to check your valve recession also . recessed valves cause hard starting and extra smoke on start up, due to lowered compression. installing higher compression pistons without proper valve work, you dont gain much.

the first thing when you turn it on is to make sure the compressor is running, not just the outer pully turning. if low on " freon " different name now, the compressor will not kick in. unless experienced with A/C time to call the repair guy. lots to look into. might even need to add oil , but its a trade in its self with the special tools . u could get a can of the stuff to top it off but you still are in the dark.

if there is grease Zerks in the caps they were installer after. no Zerks came from factory in caps. wheel brgs. are to be removed and cleaned and repacked by hand.

napa can sell any brand of points, like Echlin or blue streak, or now china ones. blue streak always was the better brand. you cant just say napa points. i used to ask for blue streak .

long as its clean no problem . i have used 30 year old diesel that sat in a tractor. heating oil and diesel is the same product, just add some 2 cycle oil to the heating oil and go.

resurfaced surfaces are not classed as used .

thanks, i was interested to see if they had some special technic i have not heard of. plus all this copper coat stuff everyone swears by. i have never used it to this day on a head gasket. when you have 2 machined surfaces you do not need goop. and a gasket is made to take up to .010 of warpage. GM had metal head gaskets and they were installed dry for example. plus think they would be fooling around with goop on the assembly line.

care to explain.

exactly.

before tearing them down you need to get them working in a field for 1/2 a day at operating temp even cover the grill if you have to. add some seafoam to the diesel before you start. highly unlikely but not impossible for them to have 20k hrs without have the head off. diesel engines are made to be worked not putting around. plus there is a lot to check before tearing them apart. like adjust valves, check and set timing is something i always do. check the fuel filters also or change them is the best. sitting is not good rust and condensation collects in them. i dont even start a tractor till i go through it. you dont know who had their fingers in them before. plus an oil change for sure , 15-40 nothing less. and not shell oil.

i have bought these gaskets from olson's. nothing wrong with their service. i am saying its the actual felpro gasket. the 282 is the perfect engine to test this gasket. you can install it, retorque it after the warm up and spray soapy water on the gasket and you will see the compression seeping right through the gasket. i have replaced lots of gaskets on these engines in over 50 years. its the manufacturer. and they make these for case ih also. and they are not cheap.

i am not a rookie mechanic.

far as i am concerned felpro is a poor gasket. i have proven that on the 282's , they are garbage gaskets. the old victor gaskets were the good gaskets. but they are obsolete.

to be sure,... shut off the tractor and work the lever up and down, that will relieve any pressure on the hoses and make them go limp. you also can turn them in the female ends with no pressure. if they have pressure you will not turn them. tid bit of the day.

time. plus the carb main jet must be open enough or it will be running lean and miss. have it 2 1/2 turns out minimum , harder work another turn out.

because the coil is getting hot, feel the coil after starting it and then after 1/2 hr -1 hr/ if you cant hold on to it its done, garbage , junk. as in my other post a major tune up. why do this and that on thing at a

the first thing to check is the oil cooler BEFORE tearing the engine down. seen that many times on the 282.

yes, they even had ones you use on a rachet is what i have.

i highly drought u will get that pump professionally rebuilt for under 2k. in an injection shop. but that's what they charge as that's their business. its worth more than the machine.

you need the proper cleaning cloth. paper towel will scratch any glasses.

im north of edmonton alberta. it looks pretty much the same as yours, with nice tin. i got a nice 650 also. plus a nice low hr wd9. got a super wd 9 but not running yet. got a very nice original w9. plus a bunch of others.

yes 166 cid. i was just saying to look at that little diesel, it looks like a miniature 282. used to have one in a 340.

the bigger terminal , which is pos. goes to ground. and yes the points are inside the mag , why not check it for spark before even trying to start it is the standard thing to do. pull the coil wore out just enough to see the metal connection and crank it over. you will se and hear the spark jumping. plus these diesels use a long rea1sch spark plug , not tlike the gas tractors. plus they are about 25.00 each. so be very careful not to cra1ck any removing them. gas plugs dont work very well for starting .

adjusting running is more with hydraulic lifters. i hate that and its messy. cold setting is .002 over the hot setting.

looks good ! i have the 600 with a hand clutch. where in canada you located ?