tractorholic

How fast is it going? Is it at top speed?

Cut the old hose out and lube the new one. You could be able to get it in place without removing anything.

Is the linkage moving on the right side of transmission below cab?

I thought all 5100's were end wheel drills. They didn't use a caddy.

I have an early 1086. A 1977 model. I m sure it never had it . I have been following this thread wondering what you guys were talking about.

If I understand your post, you get around 300 dollars per acre rent and would like to run cattle on 80 acres. I don't think you will increase your income per acre. I have been feeding cattle for 15 years buying 500 pounders and finishing them in a feedlot. I also run 70 beef cows. I think you would be better off to feed them in a lot and keep the rent coming in on your crop ground. But I know that wasnt your question. I feel fortunate. I have increased my net worth every year I have farmed. I started in 1991. Some days I feel it would be easier to rent the ground out for big money but I like what I do. Being happy and doing what you like is hard to put a dollar amount on. Good luck.

I rarely have anyone in my pickup but me 90-95% of of the time. Put 15-17K miles a year on. Regular cab with an 8 foot box. I wouldn't need a second seat for anything but junk.

It looks to big to me, to be a 100. My 100 looks about right behind my f12. I would think it would look smaller than that behind an h.

Do you think it is possible the teeth were that way from the previous starter? I would probably put it on and use it too. How does it sound when it is rolling the tractor over?

On my 1066 with a custom cab (diamond cab) it had a short pedal, with no booster. The person I bought a booster from told me the boosters always came with a long (or taller) pedal. I guess I believed him because my 766 and my 966 have boosters and tall pedals. My 756 and 826 have no booster and short pedals. The booster I bought for my 1066 didn't come from a 66 series, but it had a tall pedal. In that diamond shaped cab, the battery cover is in front of the clutch pedal, and that short pedal was difficult to get the pedal clear down. The longer pedal makes it easier to get the pedal down to start it.

Does anyone know why tractors with a clutch booster had a taller clutch pedal? I would think without a booster a longer or taller clutch pedal would give more leverage and be more beneficial. But it is my understanding the shorter one is the way the we're without.

A couple years ago I give 850 for one. We'll worth it for as much as it gets clutched though.

I recently had a starter off that I had no trouble with, it was in the way for what I was fixing.I had it checked because it was off. I found out it had the wrong drive on it. They asked how my ring gear looked. I said fine. They said it wasn't going in the teeth all the way because the drive was wrong. Looking at the ring gear he was right. It was only one third of the way in the teeth. The teeth looked fine. I have no idea how long it was on that tractor. I have only put 100 hours on it since I bought it. You said the starter was a rebuild before you bought it. Hopefully it is the right one for the tractor.

That happened to mine in the fall of 2017. Slipped on the low side. Put in new clutch packs in the two speed and redone master clutch. Expensive, but now good for a long time. I got a kit from triple r tractors. The cutch pack on the high didn't slip but it was in bad shape also.

On caseih website it's the same part number for each side. 157 bucks each! Ouch. I am surprised at the price. Bet they don't sell many anymore with them so accessible aftermarket.