Mudfly

I was waiting if anyone else commented on this, since I have zero first hand knowledge. I will say that the YouTube channel Farmcraft101 just redid his injectors on a fuel pincher for the exact same reason (fuel in the oil). He also changed the fuel pump, reset the governor, and set the output on the injectors. He was able to source the tools, but discussed what would be needed to work on it without the specific tools. it looked like a PITA to me, but could see how it would be worth it vs trying to repower a truck with a different engine.

I think uninsured/underinsured is required everywhere. I've used it as I was rear ended hard and the driver of the other vehicle decided they didn't need to stick around even though they destroyed their radiator (assuming not here legally). The state patrol that came to write up the accident report was kind of surprised he didn't find the other vehicle within a mile with the several gallons of coolant on the ground at the accident site. Either way, the accident report was written up in my favor since I was rear ended while driving on an open 4 lane highway with little traffic and I actually stopped. This was over 15 years ago and even then it was $7000 in damage.

Never been in this circumstance, but will insurance cover anything related to an event that occurred while running from the cops? Or if you were proven to be intoxicated? Seems like those would be really good reasons to deny coverage.

For fist sized rocks, just get a roller and pound them down either before or after you plant. I'd post pictures of some of the ones that I just plucked out of a pasture, but the site isn't taking pictures still. There were a couple that the skid steer wouldn't lift and tipping capacity is over 4000# on that machine. Got them pushed out of the hole and to the rock pile. Probably pulled 15 or more in the 2 to 4 foot diameter range the other night and these were all within 50 feet of each other. Plenty more to go if I choose to do so.

Concur that it has survived 46 years. It has maybe 2000 hours on it in those 50 years. I bought it last winter. I high suspect it was used to plow snow on an asphalt driveway and that's about it. Not the dustiest environment. Not that I'm putting it in the worst environment, but at the same time I'm just asking if a dry element filter would be a better option for air filtering. Even a 1980 diesel engine has a lot tighter tolerances than a 1950s Farmall. I believe oil bath filters really went out of style in the 60's and 70's. I'm assuming there was a reason why, even if it was just ease of maintenance or the need to keep a filter small enough to fit under a hood (dry filter element is more efficient with space). Neither will work well if not maintained.

I have a Ford 4600 diesel and it has an oil bath air cleaner instead of a dry filter element. I see that there were options for dry element air cleaners. My question is would it be worth looking for the parts to change over to a dry element filter or should I just keep it as an oil bath? It seems like the oil bath is actually cheaper to maintain but not sure if they are as good of a filter. I thought I read somewhere that oil bath cleaners can be just as good as a dry type but are limited on air flow after a certain amount of cfms. thoughts? Opinions?

Sorry about your medical problems and I can't help you with your issue. Also sorry for the side track, but I've been meaning to ask you if you have a Super C listed on craigslist currently? Listed in Two Harbors, thought that could potentially be yours.

If you are going to run it at some point, just bite the bullet now and pull the head. Yes you have to buy a head gasket and drain/replace coolant, but you will know what you have in the cylinders. You can clean out any rust and likely get a good idea if your rings are stuck or not. You can also take a look at your valves and send off/lap if needed. If you choose to not do that, I still am a fan of jacking up one rear tire, put it in 5th (direct), and put a lever and weight to keep torque on the wheel/tire and engine. The consistent pressure seems like it works well. Possibly reversing the direction of the torque every few days.

Need some more context to help you out. Was it working and then just stop? Is this a new to you tractor or one that you don't have any history on? Have you recently taken a loader off or is there a power beyond valve? The reason I ask is, my BIL bought an 884 (same hydraulic system) and the remotes wouldn't work. Turns out the previous owner took off a loader and loader valve, but didn't connect the power beyond lines back together to get flow back to the valve. Simple fix once we knew what was wrong.

Not my patch work, but you are likely correct. Lots of things not quite right with this car.

Look like it is supposed to be the port on the side that Dieselman suggested. I will have to get some more vacuum line and a splice tomorrow get that hooked up. I do not remember cutting that line but must have happened.. or as I said it was never hooked up. thanks.

I don’t remember plugging that line but that was a thought that ran thru my mind. It’s not long enough to reach there. I am starting wondering if it was ever hooked up. Which may explain why it has always idled poorly.

I rebuilt the Holley carb on my wife’s Mustang last winter. Too much going on and just got around to putting it back on tonight. (I know shitty to wait months to reinstall something when we should be driving it). I have everything hooked up as I remembered it and then I see a loose hose that I have no recollection of. It’s the vacuum hose to the distributor for the advance. I don’t remember taking that off. The hose is not long enough to reach any potential vacuum port and I don’t believe that it went to the carburetor. (If it did I don’t know where.) it has an aftermarket Holley 4 barrel carb (4160?) that the previous owner installed. I’m not super happy with it but it’s what I have currently. Here are some pictures. A quick google search says that it goes to the vacuum control valve, but I can’t find that or know where it’s supposed to be. thoughts on where this is supposed to attach to? I have the carb attached to a what I assume is a vacuum line in the valve cover.

I think he means a stihl 390, which is their biggest homeowner or farm grade saw at 64 cc's. Its same chassis as a 290 with a bigger jug.