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  1. Need a realtor? I can PM a few. I know one that lives in Floodwood that would likely help you out or at least not screw you over.
  2. Are the chargers physically close to the radio? You could try a faraday cage around the chargers to see if that helps blocks the rf interference. A faraday cage is just grounded metal mesh or cage. Chicken wire is too course. Needs to be finer holes. if it is putting rf into the electrical circuit you need some kind of buffer. Do you have an UPI (uninterrupted power supply) that you could plug one into to try? or run the radio off battery power.
  3. I'm a little north of there. We have warnings for sustained 30-40 mph and gusts to 60 mph until midnight. I saw his post. Looks expensive. @oldtanker is pretty close I think, did you have anything fall over or fly away?
  4. Or you could say they come free with every $120 purchase.
  5. While I was doing chores the other day, my mind was wandering. I got to thinking about what is the cheapest thing we own that has the most usefulness. I had a few ideas but settled on a plain old plastic 5 gallon bucket. Can be purchased for less than $5, maybe a $1, or possibly even free in some cases. They have a million and one uses, possibly more. we use ours mostly to haul water at the stables, but I have used them for everything in the past from picking rock, to mixing mortar, to hauling feed, used oil containers, storage, concrete form, tool box, etc. i couldn’t think of anything else that can be purchased cheaper that was nearly as useful. anyone else have anything to add to many uses of a 5 gallon bucket, or better yet, tell me something more useful that costs less than $10. Here ends my random thought for the day. Thank you for reading.
  6. Parts for this were mostly sourced off the bay of E, so I didn’t have to go visit my local unfriendly Stihl dealer. I don’t know what it is but it annoys me when I walk in anywhere and know more about what I’m asking questions about that the people behind the counter. I do have a digital copy of the parts manual that I don’t believe is authorized by the manufacturer, so that does help. Luckily Husqvarna makes theirs IPLs public. Which makes ordering parts so much easier.
  7. Managed to get it back together. No screws left over and not missing any. the only aftermarket part is the muffler, otherwise all OEM. haven’t fired it yet. Maybe tomorrow if the rain stops.
  8. https://filterqueen.com/products/air-purifier-defender I know of this brand. It is a quality product. Not sure how it compares to others but the company has been around for quite some time. Not cheap either. Take a look at their website at least. Added: I forgot it actually is rated by the FDA. Not sure if all brands are or not. their vacuum cleaners are good, but ridiculously priced.
  9. A little grease on that part and all sealed up. Got the clutch side all back together tonight. (Oil pump, chain brake, clutch, etc). should be able to get it all back together this weekend, but it’s supposed to rain until monday. So it might be another week before I get it fired up.
  10. So per the other forum, when the clutch goes on it presses the bushing in tight to the crank. They confirmed to either use grease or sealant on the bushing and it should be good to go. Learning new things all the time.
  11. On another forum trying to figure it out. If the bushing is supposed to spin with the crank, then I'll put some motoseal in there and call it good. Just seams weird to me that it doesn't seal to the crank.
  12. UPDATE: This one is giving me some fits. Parts have been a bit of an issue, but have everything now. The piston and cylinder and in along with the crank seals. Having some trouble getting it to pass pressure test. Holds vac fine for 10 minutes. These have what the call a oil pump bushing on the clutch side. The ID of the seal on that side seal to the OD of this bushing. But the bushing is just a slip fit to the crankshaft. I'm getting a slight leak from the annular space between the bushing and the crankshaft. I'm trying to figure out exactly how that side is supposed to seal. Once I get that figured out, I have an hour or two of assembly and then this one should be good to go also. Pictures of the PTO side seal.
  13. UPDATE: this one was done awhile ago, but with the crappy weather I wasn’t able to get it tested like I wanted. About 3 weeks ago I was finally able to take it out and cut. I ran almost a whole tank thru it and it pulls well with an 18” bar buried in dead dry wood. It’s not oak or ash, but some relative of the cottonwood. I wasn’t happy with the low side. Seemed rich, adjust, then lean adjust. Couldn’t find the sweet spot. Finally did one last adjustment and it went from Lean to pig rich without actually moving the low jet. Decided the carb was done. Purchased a brand new Zama for it, just got it the other day. Put it on tonight and wow what a difference. The 1.25 and 1.25 turns was almost dead-on for tune and it wasn’t supper sensitive. Pulled my tach out and dialed it in where I feel it is safe to run. I think it’s finally fixed. Just need to put another tank thru it to make sure nothing else is wrong. Now I’m still chasing an air leak on the 044 I have on my bench….🤯
  14. Mining vs EVs. Interesting article on the subject. I will not comment beyond what this says other than to note. Decisions will need to be made..... Lithium doesn't grow on trees. https://www.duluthnewstribune.com/opinion/columns/national-view-bidens-ev-push-may-hit-mining-regs-pothole
  15. That’s preventable. Even a dead or low starting battery is easily remedied by a charger or jump pack. Not sure how to keep battery efficiency up in -40 unless you keep it heated, which would reduce overall efficiency by pulling power from the battery itself.
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