TB5288

Yes, no problem getting pan off or on on any 86 series.

Good time to pull the oil pump off to inspect it. You will need front crankshaft seal.

I've always known LED lights to be polar specific also. However, I recently bought some that were not. Made me wonder if something had changed with them.

I installed LED flashes on 8950 without resistors and they work fine. The resistor was intended to provide an additional load so the flasher trips. There's enough load on the system without the resistor to trip the flasher. I'm not saying the the resistor is your problem but take them out. Sounds like you need a wiring diagram.

I've never seen a check valve installed there, always an orifice. Just go to the dealer and ask for a 3l8 rubber compression sleeve. Make sure you get all the old one dug out of the nut.

I think my 8950 is that way also. I'm not saying it's right but I think it does the same thing. I've never really worried about because I'm usually on the clutch anyway.

Thank You!

Great! Thank you for this information. However I'm still unsure about the fan. With the switch in the middle position and the fan control switch all the way left, the fan should be off. Are you saying a faulty sensor could still keep the fan running while not in auto mode?

I've been working on a/c systems since before a/c certification was a thing. That part I'm good. What I don't know for sure is how the auto system works on this thing.

The a/c quit cooling while running on auto. I thought I'd try manual by moving the switch to the center position (I believe that puts it in manual), then it really lost cooling, so it must have been working somewhat before. So I flipped it back to auto and turned the fan speed to high. Then it seemed to cool better but I would not call it good. Then at the end of the day I noticed the fan itself would not shut off when I moved the switch back to the center. The fan always runs with key on, not the cab pressurizer fan, the actual fan. I don't know what's going on here. Not codes on the little digital display, it just shows temp setting and it does move when the temp knob it turned. I haven't had gauges on it yet, does this system cycle the compressor to regulate temperature? Or does it move a diverter door? The coolant it shut off, so I know it's not heating heater core. I don't know if I have 2 different problems with the fan and cooling problem or if they could be related. I haven't studied the system much at all yet. Any ideas?

I suspected that also. If I'm looking at this right, the separator switch feeds power to terminal 23 on the instrument panel connector and then the instrument panel sends power to the separator clutch solenoid from terminal 34. That's probably only possible if all criteria have been met, such as seat switch, low pressure, etc. To me it looks like if the separator is engaging, then the signal is getting to the shaft monitoring system. I haven't checked for power at any of these terminals but everything else works fine.

Well, I can't say for sure, because I don't know, but it's never been that way. I always engage the machine at low idle but is has to be at least 1000 engine rpm's. When the separator is engaged, the alarm comes on and all the icons on the screen would be flashing until the engine is revved up. Then everything would go quiet. It doesn't do that anymore, it's always quiet. That part is actually pretty nice, but I just have a feeling it's not working the way it's supposed to. I'm more concerned about the yield monitor and how it's going to work because it's tapped into the clean grain sensor for a speed signal. I haven't started harvesting yet, I'm just hoping it works right.

It's always been that when you engage the separator, the shaft speed alarm is on and the digital schematic shows all the sensors flashing. It does this until rpms are up to speed. I believe that's the way it's supposed to work. Mine quit doing that. There no alarms at all. The only one it will recognize as slowing down is engine rpms. And it only does that it you rev it up and then slow it back down under 2100 rpm's. I unplugged each sensor individually and it will throw the alarm when I do that and show the correct sensor on the screen. So I think it would alert me if I broke a belt or plugged the elevator but I don't think it would alert me of something slowing down. I don't know what happened. All at once I noticed it wasn't working. The only calibration I found is for engine speed and rotor speed. The rotor was set to 90. I don't know if that's were it should be. I dropped it to 75 but nothing worked any different. Anyone have any ideas where to look?

The o-ring that's by itself in the plate, not by the pump. You have just the o-ring, that's replaced with a Teflon ring and o-ring. The new o-ring is a different size then what you have now. Yes, you want the Teflon.

PN 70932 15 GPM