Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

TB5288's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)



  1. Yes, it has the switch to where you can watch both or either one. The lights for the rotor loss never do come on, except when the key is turned on they come on for a little while. I don't think those sensing pads are working.
  2. Can't see wheat or milo kernels, at least I can't. But even if I could, how would I know the loss is coming through the rotor and not over the chaffer? That's always been the challenge. The only thing I know to do is I open the chaffer all the way. If I have loss out the back, it pretty well has to be rotor loss. I make rotor adjustments to get the loss acceptable. Then I start closing the chaffer to clean the bin and continue watching ground for loss. Any additional loss is coming over chaffer. If there's a better way to do it, I'm not aware of it. I do not harvest corn.
  3. It's all kernels to me, I don't harvest corn! lol! It was just a question, not looking to start a debate. To be honest, I never use the system anyway, even after I have the machine adjusted to my liking. Just never knew why there not sensing pads somewhere behind the chopper or impeller.
  4. What was the thought process with the grain loss system on these machines?! Specifically, the rotor loss sensor pad location. The grain that hits those pads is not lost at that point, how is this supposed to be accurate at all? Is the assumption that any grain that hits those pads should have already been out of the rotor at that point?
  5. I checked with Abilene and they say they got 15 used ones and new aftermarket.
  6. Did you look for the ball in compensator line?
  7. I can't actually see were the leak is. The fuel pools up at the bottom of the core where it sets on that 3 inch housing. Looks like that housing is welded to the core on the ends
  8. Got it out. Thanks again. Now, to see if I can find someone will to fix it. I really don't want to buy a new one.
  9. Thanks Puller, that's what I was to hear!
  10. Anyone ever had to remove one? I got a leak on the fuel side. Not sure what I gotta do to get it out. Got it unbolted, have tried to get it out yet. Will it come out without tearing side of combine apart?
  11. I would spend more to get 1 piece gasket.
  12. There is a lot of possibilities here. Could just need everything adjusted. But you say the wheel want to come off the ground. I'm assuming you mean the clutch engages so aggressively that the front end pops off the ground? If so, that sounds like something more than adjustment. Even if the clutch pedal has no free travel, you should still be able to feather the clutch when starting out. First thing is you gotta get the clutch pedal and TA dump valve adjusted properly and see what you got. The transmission brake probably needs adjusted also but that can wait till you see how the clutch releases/engages when properly adjusted. Only then can you really tell if the TA is working as it should also.
  • Create New...