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TB5288

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  1. I think I'd be replacing that shift fork.
  2. I'm betting the spider that holds the pistons in the rotating group in the header drive motor has worn through at the center ball. When this happens all spring pressure is lost to hold slippers against end plate. Can test this but should have a flow rate to do so. Not difficult to remove motor and inspected. If you're not familiar with hydraulic motors, take it to someone that is. Lots of pieces inside.
  3. Agree with KSUfarmdude, Hy-Cap. has them at a considerable discount compared to C-IH.
  4. Yes, the pto control valve is under the tank. Steel lines running from valve to pto. Lots of possibilities as to what's leaking, but it must not be on the oil feed side of the valve since it only leaks with pto engaged.
  5. There's a bigger washer that goes on the shaft first, then slide the lever on the shaft. Tighten the retaining bolt and there should not be any back and forth movement in the shaft.
  6. I've seen kits to eliminate the super charge line. What was/is the reason to eliminate the super charge line? What problem occurs? My 1486 has weak and slow hydraulics from the remotes, is that by chance a reason for removing?
  7. I'm assuming you have the pump removed at this point. Pop the dust seal off and you'll the see a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and then remove the thick brass washer/bushing. It can sometimes be a little challenging to get it out. Turn the pump upside down and shake it around, sometimes the bushing will slide out to where you can grab it. Then you can get to the seal with a pick. Install new parts in reverse order
  8. The block may be cracked. I had something similar on a 966.
  9. I'm wondering if the shaft that the Hi-Lo shift fork slides on didn't slide out. There's a snap ring that keeps this shaft from sliding into the differential housing. I've seen the snap ring break and then it slides back too far. Still have to pull the cover off.
  10. Your thoughts make sense, I have not switched the hoses but it's something I will try. The strange thing is this isn't something I just started doing, been running it like this for 7-8 years and always could get the pressure I needed by just adjusting flow in inside lever. I'm not convinced it's not a sprayer problem but it just doesn't seem like it is.
  11. Actually I run them both back all the time.
  12. I might clarify this a little more, when I move the flow lever for the inside lever, it does change the flow, up and down. But it's like I'm not getting max flow out of the remote until I also increase flow on the middle lever.
  13. I wouldn't be insulted, because if that was the problem because that's easy to fix. Unfortunately that was the first thing I checked and I found them to be hooked up correctly. Thanks for the suggestion.
  14. I have a pull type sprayer hooked to this tractor. I run the product pump with the inside lever and the boom control valve with the middle lever. Yes, I know the outside lever is the motor/priority valve....I don't want to get into that. Been running this combination for 7-8 years. Today I noticed something unusual, I didn't have enough pump pressure so I increased the flow on #1. With flow on max I still didn't have the pressure I needed. For some reason I increased the flow on #2 remote(the one that controls the booms), When I did this, I noticed the pump pressure increased. I messed with it more and verified that changing the flow on #2 remote also affects the flow on #1. I can get the pump pressure I need, just have to increase flow on #2. I'm trying figure out what causing this. I've had several of these tractors loose the little check ball that's in the #3 valve, the ball that allows it to be priority. I can't remember the symptoms of the hydraulic system when that happened. Anybody know how they would act?
  15. No sh%#, guess I need to just shutup.
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