TB5288

The valve body the the relief goes in? Yes. Had that off and apart when I had rock shaft cover off. Didn't see anything wrong but there's not much to see. I'm wondering if there is a crack in the valve body.

O-ring in relief bore was replaced, a couple times actually. Supercharge line was eliminated, not all these tractors had the supercharge line. Return oil T'd into return line to filter on right side instead of MCV pump suction. This was one of those things were nothing else was helping, let's try it. I had little confidence this would change anything and I was right, it didn't.

I think you still have something wrong. Hi side seems a little low but I'm not familiar with that freon. Heater valves shutoff? I think the next thing Is be looking for us a restriction in a line. Check for cold spots in the hoses. It should cool better and I don't think you should see much a difference between 1400 and 1500 rpms.

Good point!

It just doesn't make sense to me that I would see oil coming past the relief already at 1000psi. I wish it was easier to identify where the oil was coming from. But if it was easy, everyone would do it.

Everything I have tested point toward a faulty pump, and that may be the case. My hesitation it because this was the reason I replaced the pump back when I did. The biggest mistake I made back when I replaced the pump was I didn't flow rate anything before or after it was replaced. I'm going to pull the pump to inspect, the only way I'll know for sure.

Yes, sorry I didn't clarify that it is the open center system. I eliminated the supercharge line, one of the last things that I tried. Didn't change anything. I have replaced that o-ring you're referring to on the relief valve. I don't see any indication of the o-ring leaking on the pump flange. As far as the cast in line, how would you ever find that? Is it visible looking in from the back? I know the line you're referring to, I just didn't see any indication of oil leaking from the top up in that area.

This will be a little lengthy and I apologize up front. When should the hydraulic relief valve start relieving pressure? Does it start at the relief pressure it's set at or is that when all pressure is relieved? I have a 1486 that has had non-stop hydraulic problems for years. Low flow, slow hydraulics. A lot of parts have been replaced, a lot of work has been done. No help yet. I'm getting about 11 gallons of flow through a remote, that's low should be 15 I believe, I think it was a 15 gallon per minute pump I installed. The flow drops off well before relief pressure. I can get 2000 lb of pressure with the flow shut off completely. But the flow already starts dropping even at a thousand pounds of pressure. At 1500 psi I'm down to 5-7 gallons of flow. I don't know where the oil's going. I have the third link cover off on the back looking for problems. I don't see any air bubbles coming where the pump mounts, I do have quite a bit of oil splashing around up by the pinion shaft but I believe that's just lube. When I start to load down the flow rater and get around 1,000 psi then I start seeing more oil coming from up above. I'm not sure where that oil is coming from for sure, I'm not sure it's coming from the relief valve. When I close the valve all the way down and stop all flow, it just doesn't look like I have 15 gallons of flow or whatever it would be coming from the relief area. I just don't know where the oil is going. Probably going to tear everything apart again and look for blowing gaskets or whatever. Just wondering if anybody had any ideas. I've replaced the pump had the rock shaft cover off went through the three-point control valve, replace the relief valve, replaced seals in the filter housing on the suction. Someday would like to get this thing fixed.

Not sure I understand the question. Are you asking if #2 is used? If that's what you're asking, yes it is.

Also, 1 more thing, make sure the engine fan is not on backwards. I'm not saying that to be a smart a** or anything like that. I've seen it happen a few times. I think it gets taken apart to replace bearing and gets reinstalled backwards by mistake. Depending on what the tractor is doing, alot of times you'd never know it.

You need to get the second condenser installed, it made a huge difference on mine. Also, if it doesn't have it, take some foam and stuff it on the sides and on the top of the condenser's. Make it so the air being pulled through has to go across the condenser to get to the radiator and can't get pulled into the radiator around the sides. I have no complaints on the a/c in this tractor since installing the second condenser, and I'm in 100-105 a lot. I also installed a conversion to the cab blower. I installed the blower assembly that has a motor for each squirrel cage fan. That made for more air flow, but the condenser made biggest difference because it got the air cold.

The only time you would have any oil flowing(in field mode)would be when the fold cylinder needs oil because the wing went up over a terrace or something like that. I would think you could have the flow control way down when in the field. You would probably want to turn it up to when folding.

Since you're not dealing with flow, just pressure, I think you can use either valve you want. You can't use the large return because you wouldn't be able to move the wings if you did (I'm assuming this is also the fold circuit for the wings). You can set the detents tighter to hold the lever, or use bungee cord. Just make sure it doesn't pull too hard and go to float position.

You should be concerned of any type of leak. One leak leads to another and on and on. Exhaust needs to go out the muffler, not under the hood where it turns everything black. Exhaust under the hood also leads to exhaust in the cab, you don't want that. Fix it before it causes more problems.

Lucas is not going to fix your problem. You need to hire a mechanic to look at it. Too many comments just don't make sense