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About TB5288

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  1. Not arguing, just not my preference. Might be because I've done many more 66 than 86. I just don't like working up under cab or through cab floor. Plus the side fuel tank which is always full and the rear wheels are in as far as they can go. I like to work standing up if I can. Cab can be tilted back and out of the way in 30 minutes as long as it has hinge mounts on rear. And it's easier when rolling back together. To me anyway, just my opinion.
  2. Are you referring to the 66 series? or TA in general? Personally I'd rather replace the TA in a 66 series than an 86 series. That's assuming the cab can be tilted on the 66. I won't do it as pictured. Or now I'm thinking the cab my have been set back down after rolling everything out. Aside from the steering column/fuel tank assembly, I think the job is easier on these tractors. I don't like working through the cab floor on the 86 series at all.
  3. TB5288

    1486 3pt

    Got everything tore down. Didn't find anything obvious like I was hoping. No broken/loose bolts, hard to say if any o-ring could have been leaking. I do have a couple questions. The valve body on top of the cover that has the relief valve in it also has another larger poppet valve with an o-ring on it, is that the priority valve? The o-ring on the poppet looks like it may have been leaking. If I'm looking at this system right, everything with the remote/hitch system is in this valve or the 3pt cylinder/valve system. Is that correct? I want to make sure I'm checking all the possible problem are
  4. TB5288

    1486 3pt

    Is J no longer here?
  5. TB5288

    1486 3pt

    I definitely had oil pouring out but not sure if it's normal or not.
  6. TB5288

    1486 3pt

    So when a remote is engaged should the excess flow stop? As long as the remote is actually flowing and not deadheaded?
  7. TB5288

    1486 3pt

    Well, I couldn't tell where it was coming from, just that there was oil pouring down. So there is constant oil flow? Eve when the three point is not moving? Where does the oil dump from?
  8. TB5288

    1486 3pt

    My 1486 has had low hydraulic pressure/flow and 3pt operating problems for many years and I'm finally looking to fix it. The filter has been changed many times over this time, makes no difference. Replaced hitch pump and relief, no difference (open center). I pulled rockshaft cover and am going to tear the 3pt system apart. Question is, is there an easy explanation for adjusting all linkages when I get it back together? I loaned manual out and will have it back in a couple days. Also is there a priority valve that controls oil going to remotes and 3 pt? I haven't found my problem yet, hoping I
  9. As ksfarmdude said, but, if you don't know how an a/c system works, get someone how does. It can be dangerous if you don't know what to do. No need to get anyone hurt.
  10. HyCapacity has anything you'll need for that engine. But not Clevite brand. HyCapacity sells Maxxforce brand. I know there are some on here that would never use this brand and all that but there isn't any brand everyone agrees on. Personally I have installed 5 of there overall kits. Not a lot, but I've not had any problems with the parts. The hours these engines have accumulated range from 350 - 5800. Just my opinion.
  11. Many possibilities. Did you add coolant when you checked it. They will find their own "full" level. The excess will be pushed out overflow. What was coolant temp. when this happened? Was it getting to the high side? It may have been a normal event.
  12. Right. The cab does not have to be moved. You'll need to remove the engine hoods first and then can remove the covers over steering column. Usually a grimey mess in this area with fuel spillage mixing with dirt, a good opportunity to clean everything first. A good idea to check all the linkages in this area at this time since it is a little bit of a PIA to get to. Fuel gauge also, if it doesn't work this is opportunity to fix it. Throttle lever, is it too tight or too loose...adjustment right there if needed.
  13. Oil temp makes a big difference on how these tractors shift. So yeah if it was cold the first thing would be to get everything warmed up good and see how it shifts. Cab mounts is a good possibility, I haven't personally seen many worn out but have seen several where the rubber broke loose from the center sleeve.
  14. In my opinion, this would be a good tractor to buy IF you can do the work yourself. No way would I take it to the dealer and have them fix it. Just understand what you have here, you said synchronizer is out of 3rd gear and it shifts hard into reverse and medium range. So you have potential problems in speed section and range section, 2 separate housings. Much more work = Labor $$'sss. The test harness needs removed and sentry unit put back in. When you fix 3rd gear syncro you can see if anything was damaged from running test harness. Speaking of 3rd syncro, does it just grind going in the gea
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