TB5288

Will a TSR chopper that's in a 1680 work on a 2388? I see TSR offers different kit numbers for different models/serial numbers, etc. What is different between the kits? I understand if you're changing physical structure size, but comparing a 1680 to a 2388, what would be different?

You got it right.

I do have 13 bolt final drive design, never thought about one behind SAE and the other metric. But both combines have 10 bolt wheel pattern and axle couplers that use a single bolt. Just adds to the confusion I guess. So pretty obvious the extensions won't work but not sure on axles and wheels I guess. I may just have to try it and find out.

I have a 1680 with 18.4-38 duals that I'd like to swap with a 2388 with 30.5-32 singles. Any problem of I do this? I'd rather have 42 inch duals but the 38's I have are nearly new. It doesn't look like the axle extensions on the 1680 would work on the 2388, but I'm not sure. Would that be correct? If I need different extensions, what about the axle shafts...are they different? Final drives are definitely not the same between the 2 machines.

I don't think this tractor is going to work well for that. The lever closest to the door is priority valve but that's more for running a motor and holding constant speed. You need constant pressure, not flow, I think you'll generate heat no matter which valve you use

19 volts normal on exciting wire?? I did the same test on my 5288, has the same alternator, it had 13.5 volts on both regular terminals. I put that alternator on 1486. Both terminals had 13.8. There must've something wrong with the alternator that was on the 1486 that doesn't show up on bench tester.

Got something I can't quite wrap my head around. Alternator quit charging. Volt gauge dropped and baler monitor voltage reading showed the same as tractor volt gauge. Took the alternator off and had it tested. Alternator tested fine. Did not take it apart, but tested good on stand. So I got to looking and found the resistor for the exciting wire was bad, had no voltage getting to the alternator on that wire. I replaced the resistor and everything worked fine. Go back to baling and the voltage dropped again. Didn't have testing equipment with me but I know the back of the alternator was not magnetized. Anytime I've found the alternator not magnetized, it was not charging. So I headed back to the shop and while driving back the alternator started charging again. Everything seemed fine. I started testing voltages and this is what got me confused. With the engine shot off, I have 12.5 volts going in the resistor and about 7 volts coming out. The seems normal. At the alternator I have 12.5 and the battery terminal, 12.5 at the battery terminal on the regulator plug and 7 on the exciting wire. That all seems fine. With the engine running(and charging) I have about 13.5 at battery terminal and the regulator plug, but at the exciting wire I have 19 volts. I have 19 at the alternator plug and also coming out of the resistor in the cab. Why would I have that? I've never checked that voltage before but I sure can't believe that's correct. I talked to the test shop and this guys been doing this for 40 years, I've never had a problem with his work or knowledge. I thought the regulator was maybe stuck. He said if the regular was stuck the voltage would be that high on both regulator terminals. Any ideas?

Thanks for that information!

Dumb questions for you on that monitor. Do you know how accurate it is? What is your reaction to what the monitor is showing you? What mean is, will you slow down when it gets high? Will you make sieve/chaffer adjustments accordingly to what you see there or do you make all your adjustments according to what the bin looks like and loss going out the back and the return flow is what it is? I just curious more than anything. I've been around a couple machines that have something like this and when it showed excessive return flow the guy running machine says, "ahhh that damn thing ain't right anyway, if I slug the return then I know it's too much!" I have a 1680 and it doesn't have anything like this.

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

Counting lights?? Yes they come on when the field lights are on and the turn signal is switched to right. But how do they become courtesy lights? I mean when I turn the lights off to get out of the cab, everything is off. How is it supposed to work?

Ok, so I got the light problem somewhat figured out. Biggest problem was a connection in harness that had all lights dead. Now I just have a couple lights(bin & unloading auger) that don't work and it may just be the lights themselves. Next question is I'm told the side likes also function as courtesy lights...they stay on for a set amount of time. Is that right? If so, how does it work? Mine turn on and off. Not sure how they are supposed to work exactly.

Ok, yeah I already washed that filter out. Just curious where it was so if I have a problem down the road. Thanks Again!

Ok, thank you for that information! I think you're exactly right. Everything seems to work just as you described. Maybe 1 more question then, do you know how the system senses cab temperature?

Decided to do a thorough cab cleaning on the 2388 recently purchased because I think it has been awhile, if ever, since it was last done. I removed the floor mats, tilted the operator seat forward, removed the storage container and all that and got it all cleaned out. While doing this I ran across something that puzzles me. On the wiring harness that lays on the cab floor, under the floor mat, there is a connector that lays just in front of the steering column. As far as I know, this is where 1 of the cab temp sensors should be. Problem is, there's nothing plugged into the connector, it's just laying there open. As far as I can tell, this combine has the auto hvac system. It's got the digital readout and the desired temp reading changes with the temp knob. Also has the 3 way switch that I believe is for manual, auto, and auto/heat. Also don't have any fault codes showing up. I would think a sensor unplugged would trough an active code. The a/c does work, but I can't say whether it's working properly and auto and all that. I just know the air gets cold. Haven't used the combine in the field yet. Anyone have any ideas on this?