rustred

its about a 1000.00 machine if you must have it. them IHC 4 cyl. diesels are scarce and not much for parts. they are the 282 engine minus 2 cylinders. sprockets and tracks do look good.

the first thing a person does is to check the spark on any engine that has been sitting. when the points sits closed they produce a film on them and you will get not spark. it takes a bit of emery to pull through the points to clean them. then you can also spray them with brake clean in the open position. make sure the gap is set to spec. / .020. the firing order is 1342 counterclockwise. also is this a magneto or distributor system ?? most are mags. need to make sure you have gas to the carb. open the drain to see if you have good flow. these diesels are 12 volt pos. ground. while yes they can be pulled to start ,... but the engine will be cold and it will take 1/4 mile to get it started. long as you see blue smoke puffing out the exhaust pipe she will eventually start firing and will start. not a good idea to use starting fluid. even though some people do . these gas starts are the best deal since sliced bread. the engine warms up on gas then it switches smoothly to diesel. and when its time to shut them down you idle them for 15 minutes to cool them off after working them. it's a diesel engine and you always shut them down on diesel. non of this switching back to gas. diesel at idle runs cooler than gas also. you follow all this procedure to prevent the head from cracking. from the start it was to switch them to gas , but that got changed, once IHC got smarter. only shut them down on diesel. i been working on and been around these engines all my life , and they are a good engines. you do not want to start rebuilding one as parts are scarce and expensive. there is a kid on YT asking about these engines and i told him the truth and the moderator didn't like my advise so Mr. Norman canned me . and all i was doing is talking in shop language ,that's really funny as they can all the people that know stuff and tell the truth, and are left with guessers and whinners. lol. soon as you post technical stuff they sure ignore that , and are lost. and think loosening pistons in a rusty cylinder and using the same rings and brgs and lapping valves they have an overhauled engine.🙄 they have lost many old knowledgeable guys there ,i don't know who is gonna fill their shoes., lol.

warm it up or after a work out and adjust them. hot means after running it.

totally agree, it takes away from the beauty of the tractor.

first of all i would say you have 2 problems, the manifold is not going to affect engine power. you need to do a major tune up on that engine.

them small tires sure dont look right on that.

i have noticed that also on some spray cans. with a wide spray pattern you can do a good job. some cans just have a straight spray pattern and its a buggar to paint .

no wonder it was a secret, lol, not many titans left here. we still have a good foot of snow in the fields in central. alberta. last year i planted potatoes on may 1st. that sure wont be happening this year.

ya, and years ago on the oil rigs, them Detroit's all got 15-40 the same as the cat's.

looks like a home built unit.

why not give some details about this unit instead of just twanging away. versatile industries is in manitoba and had pretty good tractors and farm equipment.

how can it just lock up ??? was there oil in it ? nice to have some info. the best bet is to disassemble your engine then do an assessment on it and go from there. just locking up might be a cheap fix. not much info,... was it running and siezed ?or stuck when went to start it.?

loosening the return line or the cover screws does the same thing. depends where the check valve is on this tractor, as most are in the bottom of the tank in older ones. plus what is the timing spec > ? as it might need a bit more advance.

yep, very hard to find good actual info , as most is b.s. and smart azz answers. best info is having an actual service manual not relying on hear say. u tube is not much better, with all the wanna Be mechanic's.

the second on is junk as i see chisel marks on the sealing surface, then few cracks dont matter just orientate them correctly as said. and carefull cleaning them bolt holes are they are blind holes and using too long of a bolt will break the head casting into the coolant. tighten slow and evenly a little at a time back and forth between bolts. once run and hot i recheck them. any carbon leaking past the seal rings will make for a difficult removal next time.

they will fall off when you back up without raising the disc's up. they just unscrew and fall off.

ha ha, guess your not very old. there is piles of good old country singers that are no longer here. George Strait i don't even call and old singer. but yes i would say I'm diehard country. lots from the 1950's and 60's. we have a good AM radio station on 840 CFCW i listen to steady. i dont even like FM. i know if you found it or could get it that would be your station. or try it on a lap top and see what you think.

turn the engine over slowly till the mag trips is what i wanted to say. and stop there and look at your timing marks.

its out of time then. get number one cyl. on compression then turn the engine slowly and see where the timing marks are. that will tell you the story. sounds to me like your guessing and not confirming the timing is correct.

problem probably stems from removing the mag. and sending it out to whoever worked on it. in most cases the points only need to be cleaned and gapped and can be done without removal. that is how these no start problems start. who knows what he did or if its assembled correctly. have you squirted some gas into each plug hole to see if it actually snorts farts or starts ? have you checked the compression ? have you checked the valves for being stuck ? your working on it ,... but what are you doing to it ? info , info is needed.

it could, he said it was running and stopped. i would be checking the mag first also. he did not say how far the rotor is off either. number one cylinder wire sits at around the 2 oclock position on cap , factory position.

to get the drunks up earlier. or to cut them off sooner.🙎‍♂️ heck with that just keep the standard time.

if your asking if the super gear and cam will work replacing the 1940 cam,... yes. i gave that procedure so u can actually see where the rotor is pointing once the marks are lined up. why pull a front cover without knowing for sure.

i dont see how the timing mark can be 1/4 turn out when the stroke is at top dead centre. there is no vibration dampener on the front pulley to slip . how are you checking for the piston at tdc ? get the timing marks lined up at tdc on compression then check to see if the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder . if its out of whack then you have a cam timing problem , such as a sheared key or more.

gasket scraper and razor blade and then emery on a wooden block, sometimes with gas, wd40 or brake Kleen. brake kleen mostly for the final cleaning. using wire wheels and them other emery disc's will damage the block faster than u know it. they remove metal ! no way do you want any marks on the head or block .