superman

There are no experts, they would have been broke and gone long ago. mainly experience, restorers, tractor people, hobby, collectors. What is it that you want to know???

My two cents; 2 1/2 inch npt thread ( National pipe thread ) the thread is tapered that's how it tightens up, it also adds stress to other parts like cracks & breaks, just get your pipe snug. Chasing pipe threads by hand, 18 inch crescent wrench helps a little. cleaning manifold threads, wire buffer, Dremel tool with cut off wheel work best, you can chase the threads all the way down. Put a rag in bottom to catch the stuff. The pipe, emery cloth the threads a little nock off the high rough spots, heat the pipe with a torch get it hot, the carbon in steel will burn and shrink the pipe and stay in place. install pipe, wire buff the threads, lube threads test fit a few times, one inch of thread in would be ok, install snug, run your tractor check your pipe. piece of cake. 25 years ago I started using stainless pipe??!!$$ it don't rust, shrink or burnout.

only cut with a Farmall

The question I have is to whether to leave the cables connected or not?? when your tractor is going to set or store, on hook one cable? why?? there is a certain amount of draw that will trickle off the battey when setting? coming from the wiring, the fields in the generator & starter. charging your 6 volt battey go right to the post no problem.

OK guys I'll see what I can do about a test, one thing we already know is there is a leak, making it's way to the oil pan?? A test could pin point the problem or it's up in the head where it cant be seen. I thought water with this weeper leak it's heavier to seal with this summer run and will separate to the bottom of the oil pan and give me a reading with a petcock drain.

OK; pressure is some thing to consider, I don't think my old radiator can take much. Thanks for the Idea's Guys.

Yes not much of a leak, just a weeper, the super C will not be doing much mainly light work one tractor show. I'm thinking drain the freeze do my mechanical service, new temp gauge, new pipe coming out of the manifold , distrubitor rebuild, glue the oil pan back in with Loctite blue noooo gasket, did that 25 years ago to a farmall M oil pan no leaks to this day, tappet covers get the same. New oil & filter, Filling with water for the summer and watching it. I would need more detail on pressure test?

Today I pulled the spark plugs, looked real hard with a flash light in the plug holes, cranked the pistons up & down to the top and no anti-freeze ??!!$$$$

Farmall Super C this last winter showing anti- freeze in the oil pan!!?? about a 1/4 cup?? I just bought the tractor last fall, no records, put it in the barn for winter storage with about five service job to do on it, one was pull the oil pan for a scrub and during that cold winter storage the anti- freeze showed up.?? What to do?? With a bright flash light I looked up no cracks, it looked like no. 2 piston had a little green?? between the piston and the wall, So I'm thinking cold winter, did the head gasket shrink back?? Should I pull the head. Any Idea would help.

My 806 has 18.4 x 34 rear tires it sets ok with front 9.5 L x 15 L tires, This 806 is the newest tractor I have all the other are the letter series, I bought this 806 on Craig list maybe three owners, farming, sawmill, auction , FARM, Me. I think It sat out side the day it rolled out new. Year to date I have done 35 mechanical repairs & adjustments and you know how thing's get after a lot of year's. I get a better price for them, they make a great therapist with higher assets on the end $$$$$$$$$ Not sure what a sammich is?? the 9.5 will be ok, butttttttttt We get are share of soft wet ground up here. thanks I would walk a mile just to look at a Farmall ***************************** Armand

65806; That is a beauty, nice looking front tires too, OK I'm still thinking and listening here thanks guys.

Let's see M or SM and how's it look??? Kind'a hard to tell you have three different photos, tires on back ward, fore ward, summer time, winter time, high ground, flat ground, the one looks like a post card?? You must have been looking for a long long time??? 1952 to 1954 was the run for supers, butttttttttttttt they also made M's because I have one disk brakes, MW live power clutch. I would take some cash over to the people and buy that M, were not going to live forever.

Hello Red Power People; My 806 needs new tires and rims, the rims need sand blasted and painted or replaced for new, not sure what way to go, It's to early to get in to painting I do that in July. The 806 tractor I been wanted for a while this one was pretty run down, 1964 gas, TA, wide front, mechanical good shape, good hyd. pressure, steers good, shifting well you know how 806 shift. Looking at the rims 6 hole 15" inch 6 1/4 wide, 4 1/2" inch center hole, what are they?? looks like a standard AG. rim?? The tires, well the good one is flat, 3 rib 9.5 L - 15 L what to buy?? At this time I could use some recommendations.

OK; I'm back!! I can't stand to see a H or M turned into a parts tractor. The trans and the rear end drive are all together on the H & M there are four oil plugs on the H & M The two oil drain plugs on the bottom drain well for a few days, The big plug in the back with a long screw driver and rag fish out any thing you can, metal chips, water?? that will tell the story of what you have??$$. Drain and put plugs back in and out to keep condensation water out. The Farmall H & M have oil delivery trays casted on the inside walls feeding the constant mesh gear and on the trays lay metal chips, grindings from the past!!?? So I do not recommend a flush. With the two drain plugs back in with thread sealer soft set green stuff, take out top cover plate fill plug and side fill level plug, and that's what it means level tractor, pour 80-90 in the top till it comes out the fill level plug, put oil plugs back in and record maintenance. with the weather hot or cold your tractor will perform well. To all H & M people check rear drive, drain out one hafe gal. check for water & chips. **************************************** Armand

Hello mike; You have one of those H's that sate out side and the rain and wet air all went down the shifter to the inside!!??$$ The little room between the bottom and the bull gears, ice will form and lock you up or blow the bottom out of a tractor!! I've seen three so far?? so put a boot over the shifter. The tran's & rear drive are all together on the h