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About superman

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    Advanced Member

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    Northern Michigan
  • Interests
    Mechanical repair, Schwinn's, Farmall's, fabricating, print reading, design, welding, gardens, restoration, Timber tools, cultivation, Tractor shows, Chevy trucks

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  1. I use brake parts cleaner all the time, it's best for cleaning oil contaminated cracks in steel, it dries fast and leaves no residue. every thing today has haz. mat. welding femes are a hazard, weld in a well ventilated area with a gas fume mask. Tanks not designed for pressure can rupture and split at the seems, add one pound of air pressure to the tank multiply that by the cubic inches in the tank you get a big number. don't like it don't try it. ***************************** Armand
  2. superman

    New Shoes

    18.4 x 38 are Mr. big bad tires, very nice. I just put new 3/8 inch link ladder chains on my farmall H for snow plowing and them chains would drop out of sight in your lugs. thanks for the show.
  3. Small hairline crack right by and around the mounting support, is a stress crack. The crack can run behind the mount?? take some measurements, cut off the mount with a 4 1/2 inch. cut off wheel on a grinder, wire buff, inspect for cracks or corrosion, clean the metal real good, use brake parts cleaner, replace the bad or wire weld the cracks. When doing tank repair, test with water before and after the mount go's back on. try it you'll like ************************* Armand
  4. I'm pulling some service on my H engine runs on gas with a mag, adjusted the tappets to .017 th. they were loose, adjusted fan belt was loose, the throttle plate the hand lever was not going down to the bottom notch?? adjusted that at the buffer springs by the tappet cover, just right now. With a start up and a good warm up the engine is running good. 🔧 Question; pulling on the hand throttle from the first idle notch up there's a initial dead spot?? and I'm not pulling fast, if I pull it slow the engine rpm comes right up no dead spot?? Can that be adjusted out? It's all about red stuff here. ************************ Armand
  5. Use the C for Garden work and landscaping, get a super C and put a spinner on the steering wheel. Armstrong steering is what it's called ************************** Armand
  6. Here's a Super C with a fast hitch and a flouting draw bar with cultivator attachments, PTO, flat belt pulley. Just put a pin in and go ********************* Armand
  7. 560Dennis; My last post here explains what I had found, for part of my service work I adjusted the tappets to .014 th. good shape, this motor is wore about 60%, bring your vacuum gauge up here and show me how you hook it up?? This Super C is going to the Alpena MI. Tractor show in August, you can drive it around with my patent pending umbrella hanger design. It was the carburetor ***************************** Armand
  8. Hello Mr. 57; I was born in 1956 Vapor locking when hot, I don't think so although I know some vehicles that have done that. This is a old post and I needed to update it, When I pulled the carb for a inspection I found that the venture was in up side down??!! The Idle circuit was plugged??!! The flout was all deformed, The brass throttle shaft was wore heavy, I thought WOW how could this carb worked to run the motor?? New kit, new flout, the new brass shaft tighten things right up, the idle circuit was cleared. Super C is running smooth no hesitation just pure red power. 😉 👍 Thanks Mark's carb shop for talk and new flout ****************************** armand
  9. Hello people; With some service work complete, I been driving the super c around making gov. & carb adjustments and it is not running smooth seems like it has a slight hesitation cant put my finger on it?? This farmall super c motor is not surging or hunting or running up and down?? looking at the carb. the throttle shaft has .010 movement and now I'm thinking it's sucking air?? so I pulled it. I have a kit coming not sure if that will tighten that up?? The carb. is a Zenith and the market is overwhelming with replacements, rebuilds, core charge !!??$$ not sure what way to go, I'm thinking a new carb would be nice, what do you think?? money's no object, getting it is the object ******************** thanks Armand
  10. I thought I would update this post for a finish: OK; I talked to my mechanic about pressure test details, went to Harbor Freight, bought a pressure testing kit for about $90.00 dollars, I thought WOW!! I set up a good fit, my wife pumped up 8 lb's and I looked?? the pressure held and I did not see any leaks, good job every one. Pulling the oil pan for a scrub & inspection was a good thing, found some loose knotter keys and one messing on the crank rods? Also the oil pump cover had a blown gasket !!??$$ I had to buy shim stock gasket .005 thick, cut it, test fit it, put it together with Permatex hard set, 24 hour set I pumped about a 1/4 cup of oil into the pump put it in. Oil pan back on with Permatex red 24 hour set torqued pan bolts. Now I'm thinking will that pump pull the oil up, what do you think, maybe I should start a new post oil pump priming.
  11. There are no experts, they would have been broke and gone long ago. mainly experience, restorers, tractor people, hobby, collectors. What is it that you want to know???
  12. My two cents; 2 1/2 inch npt thread ( National pipe thread ) the thread is tapered that's how it tightens up, it also adds stress to other parts like cracks & breaks, just get your pipe snug. Chasing pipe threads by hand, 18 inch crescent wrench helps a little. cleaning manifold threads, wire buffer, Dremel tool with cut off wheel work best, you can chase the threads all the way down. Put a rag in bottom to catch the stuff. The pipe, emery cloth the threads a little nock off the high rough spots, heat the pipe with a torch get it hot, the carbon in steel will burn and shrink the pipe and stay in place. install pipe, wire buff the threads, lube threads test fit a few times, one inch of thread in would be ok, install snug, run your tractor check your pipe. piece of cake. 25 years ago I started using stainless pipe??!!$$ it don't rust, shrink or burnout.
  13. only cut with a Farmall
  14. The question I have is to whether to leave the cables connected or not?? when your tractor is going to set or store, on hook one cable? why?? there is a certain amount of draw that will trickle off the battey when setting? coming from the wiring, the fields in the generator & starter. charging your 6 volt battey go right to the post no problem.
  15. OK guys I'll see what I can do about a test, one thing we already know is there is a leak, making it's way to the oil pan?? A test could pin point the problem or it's up in the head where it cant be seen. I thought water with this weeper leak it's heavier to seal with this summer run and will separate to the bottom of the oil pan and give me a reading with a petcock drain.
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