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superman

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About superman

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Michigan
  • Interests
    Mechanical repair, Schwinn's, Farmall's, fabricating, print reading, design, welding, gardens, restoration, Timber tools, cultivation, Tractor shows, Chevy trucks

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  1. OK; I'm back!! I can't stand to see a H or M turned into a parts tractor. The trans and the rear end drive are all together on the H & M there are four oil plugs on the H & M The two oil drain plugs on the bottom drain well for a few days, The big plug in the back with a long screw driver and rag fish out any thing you can, metal chips, water?? that will tell the story of what you have??$$. Drain and put plugs back in and out to keep condensation water out. The Farmall H & M have oil delivery trays casted on the inside walls feeding the constant mesh gear and on the trays lay metal chips, grindings from the past!!?? So I do not recommend a flush. With the two drain plugs back in with thread sealer soft set green stuff, take out top cover plate fill plug and side fill level plug, and that's what it means level tractor, pour 80-90 in the top till it comes out the fill level plug, put oil plugs back in and record maintenance. with the weather hot or cold your tractor will perform well. To all H & M people check rear drive, drain out one hafe gal. check for water & chips. **************************************** Armand
  2. Hello mike; You have one of those H's that sate out side and the rain and wet air all went down the shifter to the inside!!??$$ The little room between the bottom and the bull gears, ice will form and lock you up or blow the bottom out of a tractor!! I've seen three so far?? so put a boot over the shifter. The tran's & rear drive are all together on the h
  3. SuperIH; The I-H gloss red on your tractor looks beautiful, rich red good eye!! I see your number's are on track with mine. I-H # 50 red ( 1937- med 1949 ) PPG 70019 Dupont 7410 I-H 1102B red 1949 - 1958 I-H 201 red 1958 - 1961 I-H 2150 red 1961 - 1980 I know it may seem like I'm beating a dead horse here but paint has changed?? to protect the environment, O-Zone, weather, Dupont is out My old can cover of it says it contains lead.
  4. Gordon 76; The red looks perfect, I will put it in my paint nots: I have a martin Senour store in town I will go check it out thanks. I have some more paint to list?? Majic I-H red 8-22972-8 ( enamel ) Man. Yenkein Majestic Corp. Ohio, local farm store carries it the color is right. I use it all the time for enamel paint touch up. Van Sickle red 45571 that's all the info I have on the stuff. More info please *********************************** Armand
  5. superman

    H hood

    My hood is pretty much welded up, I'm working on hoods this week and next week, this hood needs a new thermo shield inside I will fab one and weld it in next week. I don't have any current pictures, only the past.
  6. superman

    H hood

    The I-H hood sheet metal thickness: 16 gauge 0.0598 th. for the holes I use a 12 gauge backer plate on the inside and weld into them from the out side.
  7. 2150 IH paint code Last painted parts with PPG 71310 mae acrylic enamel, the color, tint, tone, is off to munch orange in the red !!??$$ looking for other?? Dupont 7410A centari acrylic enamel, no longer available. and it was the right stuff for tractor show paint !!?? 2150 Case I-H ( enamel ) is manufactured & packaged and distributed by Valspar Co. from my paint notes. U- tech paint acrylic urethane U500, paint code not sure working on a number?? Painter's we need more help here?? I scrape & paint every thing I do. ***************************** Armand
  8. Platform holes are really sloppy??$$ then go for the bottom kit the cross pin will shoulder in and screw tight.
  9. The fill cap and vent on these pumps has a felt filter to vent, it keeps dust, bugs and water out. Volume exchange oil out air in. The hydraulic oil is returned to the reservoir by static load only, and air out, so make sure the fill vent is clear?? The pump will go right back in the coupling is a pain, on the farmall M the coupling is just a tee slot, line it up and the pump is in or out no bolts, YA" baby were talking NASCAR Achtung!! working on Farmall's can be addicting ************************************* Armand
  10. Glad to here progress, the pump will be well worth the effort, it will run another 100 years, I was thinking maybe there was a bad batch off springs?? I say this because I'm running four pumps now and never had any thing break, maintenance free, on restoring I have changed the input shaft seals, C/R ( Chicago Rawhide ) they made seals out of leather and them seals are still doing a good job today. You know people need to understand that when your working on the letter series farmall tractors you are going to run into a ( snag } is what I call them!!?? So work on the on the other stuff, it will all come together.😄
  11. superman

    H hood

    The cut and the fit should be ok, for sheet steel repair I use a wire welder smaller wire the better .030 - .035 and .045 if your good. Fit and tack every 1 inch to minimize shrinkage, make your tacks and welds on the inside. To minimize shrinkage back step the weld?? you weld 2inch then move ahead 2inch and weld back to your last weld and leave the small 1/8 weld for super strength on the inside, On the top side grind any high spots bondo, prime, and paint. piece of cake ************************** Armand
  12. You know what I'm hearing is all your parts are in good shape, you need a die cut metal shim pack to set the running clearance between pump body and gears 0.003 - 0.007 th. maybe a tighter bushing. Put a new seal in at the input shaft part 35 part no. 43509d, they always start leaking, buy the I&T shop manual IH- 8 will show you every thing you need to know. pump body, 5017 eb with shim package 352 424 R91 Go to and Industrial, parts, bearing, material store for stuff
  13. Mufflers in question?? The I-H one's stamped maybe or not, are, were, galvanized and stayed that way for ever, or a long time!!$$ The new OEM are painted and start burning the paint away to rust the very first use. that makes me mad. The muffler makes the show tractor ************* Armand
  14. I see factory casting marks all over, screw heads, numbers, cast for factory records, batch no. is factory?? The important one is on the bell housing tag serial number. The open hole to the left on your picture is for the 5th gear lock out ( good for kids ) The color looks like red primer paint?? What are you going to use for a top coat?? I ask this because I'm close to that time?? Always go the extra mile when you restore ************************************ Armand
  15. Cooter; That's a good start, open it up see what you have??!!$$$$ due to wear and trans chips that started the failure you now have a major overhaul. the trans and final drive now is contaminated with metal, gear chips, pull down every thing else, record, mark the shims, wash every thing super clean, parts washer tanks work great for big jobs. lay every out on a table keeping organized, Bearings: get a bearing book, new bearing run .003 th running clearance, wore bearings over .010 th. should be rejected. measurement taken with clean bearing in hand slid a feeler gauge between the race and the ball ??!$$$$. A new bearing are not that bad on price$$ I take all my bearings or numbers to Applied $20 to $60 Seals; same thing, C/R numbers to new. When you make it back to the back lash setting start a new post so we can all scrutinize? It's not just a ( Tractor ) any more ********************************** Armand
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