superman

Hello new member; ??!!$$ Your H looks like one of mine only I'm waiting on a engine rebuild, I know the amount of hours required to pull the belly pump and put it back in. So pull it down some more check the gears it may have ran dry, check the onloading valve and replace the broken spring. Note: Them pumps ran off the constant mess gear and ran all the time, step on the clutch and the pump stops so dose your hydraulics. Hydraulics System Spring number: 45 valve cam and piston lever spring, I-H part number 15 068 EB let us know if it's on the I-H parts book??$$ and what kind of paint are you using?? ******************************** Armand

Always at 4:00 o-clock, the knob is out of the way, and you can rest your arm after many hours and still control, try it you'll like it.

Welcome to the club;

I just bought a Farmall A, not running, left rear tire flat for a real long time?? the hunting camp owner had no Idea what it was worth?? and I don't like making up prices. You know at that point you have to deem the tractor broke not running a ( parts tractor ) and go from there. He asked me what's it worth? I told him one to two thousand if their running and good rubber. My wife and I looked at the A just prior and she said $ 300.00 my offer $300.00 the guy said ok.☺️ To complete my list I'm looking for a Farmall super A, running, complete, good shape ********************************* Armand

I went back and looked threw the E-bay sale photos and the one close up picture shows a crack on the left from cast hole to cast hole?? I'm sure it was over looked. So here are some pics the red one is for your viewing pleasure. 🙂

Hello Red Power people;

When the oil gauge moves up like a turtle and drops like a rock you can have a lot of loose rockers.

I'm pulling service on the band brakes on a M, bought not to long ago the guy said it was running rough and pulled the carb off to rebuild it, Along, long time ago?? about 5 to 10 years ago. I bought it as a parts tractor, but it has a lot of Red power potential. pulling the brake covers off, the brake bands looked good, right side seal has a heavy oil leak running down to the draw bar anchor and the draw bar anchor is broke in half !!?? WOW I seen a lot of draw bars and tables broke but not that. The brake drum on the left side has a weld repair made 3 inch up from center 8 inch long ?? I thought maybe it was pried off and broke, so I ordered one on E-bay and took it out of the box and it had a crack in it about the same ? the S/H box looked ok ?? I'm thinking no one would send a wheel with a crack, over looked maybe. I'm thinking a casting flaw, a stress relief ?? So the question here is has any one ran across a crack in the M brake drums ?? tractor brakes most important but less serviced ********************************** Armand

That's a good place at the oil pressure switch, my 806 wiring is a mess also nothing works not even the tac. looks like it was hit by one of those solar flares they talk about?? bought it last year the guy said he bought it at a auction and last used at a sawmill ?? I will put a gauge there this coming spring, I start my 806 gas standing on the ground and let her warm up, that's a good time to view the gauge before getting on. Auction tractor's have no bodies name on it ??!!?? ********************************* Armand

Simple answer…….. one wire 12 volt alternator threw the amp gauge to the battery is OK makes for a nice clean update. about one wire alt Put one on my SM in 1990, that's 29 years ago was recommended by the parts store Manager, had to design and build the mounting bracket, measure a tight belt to fit with a 3/8 inch air gap between the alt. and hood, WOW the one wire went threw a 30 amp gauge to the battery. That was the best thing since pizza and beer. The info sheet at that time said you have to rap the throttle up to energize the fields to charge. I have done three since that and the last two don't need a throttle rap up RPM. My super C I bought last year is all original 6 volt system and it will stay that way for fanatics only. The less you do the more you will preserve ******************************** Armand

Cleaning, degreasing, build up, stripping, paint, rust, big parts on the out side, that's a good subject here. Start out side on the drive way, put some oil mats down, power wash, car wash, contractor wash, heated power wash cut fast. Maybe two three times and have a scrub pail full of cleaning tools for the tough spots. The more you do the better you get, ********************************* Armand

WOW; This is great mechanical info thanks. your questions new spring description part no. 358108r91 large coil spring steel color small coil spring red color no instruction my advance plate for the SUPER C is 22 L I read every thing here twice, and going against the laws of common sense, that makes sense, the right advance curve is needed. Feeling good about it now I will put the new springs in. After start up and warm a timing light would be a good tool to use and witness the advance curb TDC. My notes on past distributor advance plate no. Farmall H 40L, 806 25RS, tack drive dist. 22L, advance plate hole wore wide 22L Snowing here in Mich. 8 inch will get the SUPER M out to plow snow today. THANKS **************************** Armand

Hello tech people; I'm pulling service on a FARMALL SUPER C distributor, I bought the tractor just a while ago in good shape, no story, no service maintenance log on the tractor, that's about typical for the letter series tractors I buy, with 20 mech. jobs needed, I get a better price, I love it. So I pulled the distributor off took it all apart, cleaned, scrubbed, every thing. Ready for assembly, I noted the advance springs, one was sprung ?? Ordered a new set from the I.H. dealer at $36.84 dollars ??!!$$ WOW, received the spring set and one was one size BIGGER than the other ?? Called the dealer he said he would reorder, He made a check and 20 min. latter he call me back and said go a head and put them in that the way they are, I'm thinking !!??$$ so what's up with the springs?? your never to old to learn****************************** Armand

OK; People every one get's a red star for posting on this subject thanks. For all my mechanical parts I've been using super clean full strength, parts are soaked over night most grease and paint fall away finish with a hot pail of water with a few oz. joy soap oil base stops rust or super clean mix again scrub and rinse. It's not a fast cleaner, keep your hands out of it, don't soak aluminum parts it will eat it up!! It don't do much for rust like my carb. not a oil base cleaner you can paint , 1 gal. best for the dollar bought at Wal-mart. You are now enjoying my life long hobby ******************************************* Armand

Hello red friends; Best carb cleaner, best method, best solvent, what ever? I have a farmall M carb it was taken apart years ago by this guy he said the M was running rough and that's as far as it got?? the carb sat apart in a shed for years and now .I own it. The carb needs a good soak, rust in gas ports?? So I wanted to ask what's working today or the past??