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  1. We mow alfalfa 4 cuttings per year and cover crop of wheat and ryegrass from our corn fields. We generally only get 3 day windows to make hay. So conditioning is a must for us. We did come across a set that was interesting to me. https://www.bdrollers.com/the-crusher-hay-conditioning-rollers/ They claim to reduce drying time as they are a full contact roller.
  2. We have the odd rock in our fields that may go through a discbine. How do the steel rollers do with rocks
  3. How do the Massey rollers work in alfalfa. That is our primary crop.
  4. I'll have to check out finzer. Apparently we have one a few hours away in nc. Do you just ask if they can recondition rollers, i assume every location has the same capabilities.
  5. Today went south while mowing hay, the conditioning rolls on our New Holland 7220 discbine separated. Long story short new Holland wants 9000 for both rollers. I found a company in Kansas that will recondition them for 4000 including freight to and from. The company in Kansas was ag belting outlet. Anyone heard of them before or used their products? Or know of another company that refurbishes rollers?
  6. The problem is trying to find 2 healthy guys. There has been no one willing to do manual hay labor here since the late 90's. And it isn't as inefficient as one might think. We meaning 2 people have baled and stacked in the barn 1000 bales in an evening with a Kuhn's system. We used to have a new Holland 1034 bale wagon and for us it works better to use a accumulator. In our sheds we can get more in than with a stack wagon. The wagon was 7 bales high. With this we go 9 bales high and 2 packs wide. Couldn't do that with a stack wagon due to the width. We use 2 trucks and trailers so per trip we can potentially take 300-320 bales. That would have been 3 trips with a stack wagon. I view the accumulator bale packs as a round bale shaped different. When you look at it that way then there really isn't much difference in them. A pack of 10 weighs 6 to 700 pounds and a dry 4x5 realistically isn't much more weight. It takes the same time to load a roll on a trailer as it does to load a pack of square bales. And stacking in the barn is the same way. Plus you can charge same price in the field as in the barn since you can load for the guy in no time.
  7. Our baler is a new Holland with the hydraulic tension. We run the pressure in the middle to lower side of the green on the gauge. The adjustable hay doors/wedges are removed and it makes a tight bale. We used it on a nh 565 with I think 2 wedges removed and maybe backed off the springs a little. The stacking on wagons depends more on operates ability but it does pretty good. I usually throw a strap on the rear when getting on the main road.
  8. Yeah I blew it out already hoping that would help. But it didnt
  9. Kuhn's accumulators work very well. No chains or sensors. Works off gravity. Have had one for 4 or 5 years now. If you have a loading dock you can load it with a tractor/skid steer using their grapple. We have a af10 and I have set bales up into the rear of a dry van that the buyer then moved by hand and restacked as we didn't have a loading dock. So apparently Kuhn's changed their name to norden. https://www.nordenmfg.com/
  10. The tractor wasn't steaming and seemed to be running fine. We had to cut some emergency feed and the regular chopper tractor had a water pump go bad. So we put the 1 row head on a new Holland 718 chopper in really green corn that was 13 feet tall Running in low 2 direct or low 3 ta back. Tractor didn't seem to be running out of power just noticed temp seemed to be running higher than normal. It never passed the green mark and when after each load I let it cool down. I have changed the thermostat already as the tractor wouldn't come off cold and if it did the temp was very unstable. The new thermostat was a 180 I believe and under light load it sits to the right of the middle line. Outside of the radiator is clean but I've been suspecting that the radiator has some clogged tubes internal to it. I guess I need to put in a known good gauge from a parts store just to verify the temp and rule out a bad sender. But I'm pretty sure it's a radiator problem
  11. On a 706 282 what is considered normal operating range on the temp gauge can it go over to the tic before the h (green line I marked on pic) and still be considered in the normal working range? If it goes past is that considered hot? Under heavy load mine is just to the right of the green line. A little above where it is now
  12. If the cab is designed to come off for engine work then it's not bad at all. Ford cabs come off easy from what I hear, some Ford techs say under an hour. And then you have all the room in the world to access whatever you want. Now it sucks for the at home guy, but is actually nice in a shop with a 2 post lift
  13. What about on a narrow front? Serious question. I've always used the weight by bracket on the narrow front tractors
  14. I am actually curious about proper tie down points on a tractor. I saw the suggestion made in the other thread to avoid using the front weight bracket because they have seen them break off. I admit the weight bracket is a easy place to attach to, but if it isn't strong enough then where would a good secure location be on the front? The rear I'm not worried about, there are plenty of solid places to tie off to.
  15. Raked hay with a v rake and a f150 before. Just went round and round cause the truck didn't have hydraulics lol. Pulled a 4 basket tedder that only needed a 35 hp tractor with a 120 horse tractor because it had air conditioning. Pulled a old 2 row corn planter with a 80 hp tractor.
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