supermechanic

I recall a half track that was in a junkyard some 35 years ago. the yard owners had a hand crank holmes wrecker boom and a cutting torch set installed on the track. it was used to move parts/ cars in the yard during mud season. I thought it was the coolest thing going yard has long been closed, land where yard was now sits at the bottom of a reservoir.

Look on Yesterdays Tractors for case 800. Whole bunch of photos.

VOLCANO TAX!!!!!

since you are in pennsy, try this stuff. I know of none better. https://www.berkebileoil.com/instant-gum-cutter.html

A farm up the way from me has(had?) one of those. Always sat out in the weather, always ran when he needed it. The farmer passed a few years back, don't know if his kids still have it. Quite a few of the diary farms had masseys around here.

Try these people. www.compressorparts.com You will need to call them with your model number, the website they have is not to easy to use. I have put new vanes in an ingersoll rock drill motor, pert near the same concept. Not a huge job.

Is that an oil flooded screw compressor? Hard to tell from the view angle. If it is, you may try cleaning it up a bit, as these units are fairly robust. If the nicks on the rotor are not too deep, you may get by with just a good cleaning , perhaps buff down any sharp edges with some mechanics cloth. On the other hand, if the interior of the housing has deep gouges, air end is toast. Good luck, keep us posted.

The memory of money saved on a 'good deal' is much more fleeting than the angst derived from the necessity of replacing a part that fails too soon. They are cheap for a reason. Radiator failed due to the weak welds where the tanks join the tube sheet. All aluminum unit lasted only 5 years. Company that sold the radiator disappeared, no recourse for faulty product. I went from all aluminum, welded radiator back to the stock type with plastic tanks. So far, no problems. Your experience may vary.

The crosses on each end of a section of tubing need to be in the same plane

I also agree the last section of drive shaft is out of time. Slip the spline out of the yoke, turn 90 degrees oor untill the crosses line up, then re assemble. if spline has a 'dead' land, (extra wide land) to match a corresponding key in the slip section , shaft needs to be cut apart and assembled correctly.

Jack the back wheels off the ground, first one then the other. Block well, use stands, etc. try to see which side makes it jump. if it jumps each time, the drive line is out of balance. obviously, if it wont jump, the front end is at fault.

"Get a big yakum rope and have another container ship built up some speed and she’ll come out.... " Yea, but in one piece?

Rip out all of the soft joints and braze new. You have identified the problem, and know the solution. If management won't comply, get onboard with Department of Labor and Industry. Someone needs to make this right, that person is you.

Perhaps a local library may have a copy of 1962 Motor's Truck Repair Manual. I had a copy at one time, it was lent out to someone and never came back.

The up side to this is you will have a much easier time getting the bead loose from the rim. It is impressive how tight a tire gets on a rim after 30 years.