Woolls01

Fuel knocking/trying to over rev due to getting gas sucked in whole switching to diesel.

So wanted to pass along an update! I adjusted linkages, cleaned the pump, checked the buttfly valves all were good to go. Tried to switch from gas to diesel and she started chugging again. So back to square one. I pulled the card off and for better lack of terms there is a cam that is on a shaft that shuts the needed to keep gas from flowing into the carb bowl. That cam was cracked and rotated on the shaft. I pulled it out and crafted a replacement. It took a couple trys but I got it installed correctly and the linkages perfect and it switches over to diesel like a dream.

I recently purchased an 826 with a bad engine and a good engine that needs to be installed. I'm waiting on a new clutch but once that gets in I'm going to put it together. The injection pump cover has a solid insert so I can't see the timing pointer. It is a D358 with the Bosch pump. My understanding since the pump is keyed would be that I would either be close on the timing by just bolting the pump on or 180 degrees off. Am I understanding this correctly? Also is the solid cover behind the plate on the pump removable so I can actually see the timing pointer in the pump? I would love some guidance in this since I'm unfamiliar with Bosch pumps and German diesel. If someone experienced would like to share their phone number I would appreciate it! Thanks!!

Ok so here's where we're at. Started it again last night and when switching over there was severe diesel knock and it wanted to run off. The good news is I know why now. It's still sucking gas from the carb somehow. I will try to adjust linkages but to be on the safe side I started it on gas, turned the gas sediment bowl off and as soon as it started to sputter to die I switched to diesel and it switched over with zero issues nice and smooth!

Ok, so I drained and put fresh oil in the pump. The rack seemed to move as it should best I could tell. I started it and it switched over to diesel and was running ok. I started to increase rpm and it took off so I quickly killed it. I worked the throttle back and fourth about ten times then tried again. It fired right up and didn't do it again. Ran it for about an hour at all rpm and speeds. Seems to be fine! Thank you for your help! As for the one with blow by I will get back to you!

Thank you I will start there! This will be very helpful. I will reply once I check this out and get back to this thread!

Just purchased a pair of MDs. One runs ok but has a lot of blow by. Starts good on gas, and switches over to diesel well. Chuffs a bit of white smoke every few revolutions until it's good and warm. Pegs the oil pressure gauge and drops just a little when it's hot. It sat for a long time.... I'm thinking stuck rings. What's my best option here other than a tear down? Also the second one runs good on gas but as soon as you switch it over it wants to run off. This one also sat for a long time. I'm thinking something is stuck in the pump...

Just picked up this solid 856 custom and would like to turbo charge it prior to giving her a new paint job. Besides M&W (because they are hard to find and getting $$$$) are there any other options that include a decent kit?

Okay so I have an update I had replaced one of the Pistons with an aftermarket piston and it looks like the valve recession wasn't exactly the same as the original piston. I can see that the Piston was making very slight contact with the intake valve. My diagnosis is that as I backed off the clearance on the intake valve it didn't open quite as soon so there was no contact but that starved it for air so it was sucking open the exhaust valve. Does this make sense? I cleaned up the old piston and reinstalled it hoping to start the tractor this afternoon.

Also oil pressure is 55 lbs at idle cold and 50 hot

Got a 1967 806 diesel. Had a loose sleeve so sleeve was replaced now that cylinders valves cannot be set correctly. The exhaust valve makes a hammering sound when adjusted to spec but quiets to a tapping when backed way off. If you tighten the intake valve down to almost zero clearance it hides most of the noise. The noise is all valve. Tractor starts and runs well but something clearly isn't right. Valves look to be in decent shape, I lightly lapped them before putting it back together. Guides were nice and snug. I don't believe these engines had much issue with cams/ lifters. All other components have checked out well. I've switch rockers and pushrods to see if that changed and nothing. I'm leaning towards weak valve springs since I likely brought the compression back up on that cylinder. Any thoughts?