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About td9bcf180

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    56 TD9-91, 59 BCF180 Tandem, 43 Chev CMP Army Truck, 70 Timberjack 230 skidder

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  1. I did that last week but not a remodel. Just a new shower kit/install. Priorities!
  2. Yes, definitely. I need to put the forklift on it and take the pressure off the back end and straight up a bit to see if the flywheel is catching like you say. I might do this BEFORE I take the yoke bolt out to see if it will slide off the shaft and if not then the bolt has to be cut/ground off/made to disappear. Thanks for the help, BK. Any progress with yours?
  3. I think if I get a lift on this and the yoke bolt removed, it will all come out as one. Gonna try that.
  4. My Paragraph 28 is slightly different than yours. I was told that the clutch and front yoke will all come out as one. Maybe your TD6 is different than my 9. Your clutch and shaft will be left behind? ???
  5. Ya, I tried that BK. And it moved so that's why I think it should have come off. I have a jack on the front of the engine and can "wiggle" it easily up and down but it seems as if its one small thing holding and it has to be that yoke bolt. That's probably the problem and it will be off by day's end. Gotta get past these small issues cause the big ones are coming up. Engine and steering clutches. I have another engine and you can see my post on the engine forum about that. Cheers.
  6. Ok, thanks Redwood. They look exactly the same but only one number difference in the fuel pump between the two. Not sure what that signifies. This is the Drott engine.
  7. I will send you a private email when I know what I need. Thanks Hector.
  8. I have a 350 ci engine in a 1956 TD9-91 dozer. Hopefully it will be torn down early next week to see if it's fixable or a throw away. Seized and been sitting (got wet) for years. But I bought a 350 ci engine a few years ago and its been kept undercover. It was from a Drott track loader, though. The only difference I see on the 2 engines is the fuel pump part #. My 56 dozer says its part # 270074R91. The Drott fuel pump # is 270075R91. I guess what I am asking is will the Drott engine bolt up and fit in my dozer and what's the difference between these fuel injection pumps?
  9. The plate is going over the dowel pins OK. You are saying that the other half of the yoke won't come off the splined transmission shaft, hector? I will cut that bolt somehow. Thanks. By the way, do you still have some parts for TD9-91's?
  10. I tore into trying to remove the engine today and still have the same issue- it pops out maybe 1/4" and no further. (starter has been removed). So I'm thinking one of two things: 1. there is still one bolt in the tranny/clutch coupling. I thought the complete 2 piece yoke would slide off the splined shaft but it goes to almost the end of the thread and stops. See picture. Left hand side is transmission end. MAYBE I SHOULD REMOVE THE 3 BOLTS ON THE END CAP OF THE TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT ON LEFT SO YOKE SLIDES OVER THE SEAL??? 2. I can use a short hacksaw and feel my way around the
  11. If the book says so- it will be done. Thanks bk.
  12. Not a good picture attached but you can see how far I have moved the engine from the main frame. Maybe 1/4 inch. Seems to be bound on something. I took the 2 bolts from the pivot shaft cap off and when I jacked up the front of the engine to take the weight off the equalizer spring pack, the spring came off easily. But it just moves ahead and hopefully enough to get engine out. The back engine plate is sliding on the 2 dowels, OK. If you look at my other photo of the transmission yoke/clutch coupling- it still has the bottom bolt holding but the big retaining nut is off and the whol
  13. Pete: I just went through your 7 pages of your TD6 rebuild and have learned a lot from that. TD9 and TD6 have a lot of similarities. Great restoration job by the way. BN: I had the impact on the 6 bolts but nay nay. Heat should do it.
  14. Ok, I'm back. As you can tell, this is a "Saturday morning project" so it's slow going. But a little progress has been made. I got the clutch adjusting lock off (2 bolts) but everything else it's seized solid as you said, BK. So it was back to getting the bottom tranny coupling bolt removed so the coupling would split. Since everything is seized I got 2 of these coupling bolts out (on top- easy) but the 3rd one is directly underneath and a real fight to get at. BUT- I did get the nut on the transmission shaft end of the coupling off and removed so now the engine and clutch should come
  15. Merci beaucoup, Mister Gemme. I will try this later this week.
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