Pukeko

They need straight 30 weight ( hot climate 40 wt) Dont use multi grades in those old engines..I have a 600 as well.I prefer that weight in several of my old IH,s gassers too. I am also in Alberta,east of Edmonton.

dont touch it with a barge pole . Overpriced P.O.S. No parts available down there,nobody will know anything about them.They broke cranks due to harmonic balabcer breaking,blocks cracking due to poor casting,oil pump switch failing causing hard srarting problems .If an auto,probably 4L80trans ,certainly no parts or knowledgedown thereon that topic.They were replaced early 2000,s by the Isuzu "Duramax" for good reason. Being 2 wheel drive ,heavy front end ,pisspoor off road due to heavy front end .

that was wheat on last years canola stubble. We also did barley, canola and some oats ,plus meadow-brome grass for seed recovery.

Just got finished before all of the heavy rain. Sorry, tractor is the wrong colour.

Wouldnt be a TS24 with those engines,probably a TS14.The early TS 24 I operated had the wide grill(59-60 vintage) and had a 12V71 in front, and a inline 6-71 in the back.3 speed Allison trans ,and about 26 yards struck capacity.

I worked for a guy back in late 70,s for several winters in the oil fields, and he had 6,s,7,s and 8K,s .Everything used Mobil XD 30 weight in engine ,trans ,finals, trans(stick and powershift),hydraulics .All with no problem. It simplified maintenance with the 40 odd cats he ran.At the low temps we worked in northern Alberta ,sometimes down to minus 55 C, the lighter viscosity helped. Note ,back then ,no fancy cabs,just a ROPS with lots of tarp.

I use Chevron "TorqForce" 10 W in my Cat 257B2 Skid steer.It has the specs for Cat and is 2/3 the price . Especially when you blow a hose or bust a line and its pissing on the ground. Exxon /Mobil makes the oil for Cat since 1987.Prior to that it was Chevron I think? Some "dyed-in - the - wool" Cat guys think Cat makes their own oil, but it is made to their spec by outsiders. Same as JD owners buying JD branded oil,batteries ,tools etc at twice the price .Nothing wrong with it if you insist on paying more I guess!

Looks like a little Fiat,maybe a 455 Ag.

I was referring to the top left pic ,black and white .I also think it is a TD14.I figured the TD20 was Farringtons machine .I also have a pic of it somewhere.

I think Allis is referring to the top left pic of the black and white really fuzzy ones. ( not the red 9B in the colored pics.)

They are 18,s.

Thanks for that.I wasnt aware he hadnt said the size of the place when you had posted,so my bad.I work for seasonally for a guy with up to 3000 cropped with 500 hp(green),so I get your point .Big implements ,(60 ft seed drill ,90 foot harrows etc)so cost per acre reduced.

Not trying to belittle you, but 60 to 100 hp for 10 lousy acres!!How much would you need if you had 500 acres ?1000hp on your reckoning.A 300 utility,Ford 3000 series ,Masse,y 135,235 ,D17 AC, then depending on budget474,574 IH,s and so on would be adequate in my opinion. Often it comes down to dollars,so even a good Super M with a.ftermarket 3 point hitch like Sandhillers would work It is just going to take a bit longer ,but you are saving a ton of money..Some of the older larger Ih,s get expensive if the PTO,clutches T.A.s etc crap out.. As far as narrow fronts go,a WF is slightly more stable on undulating ground when turning.When a tractor falls over,it is always from the rear when it cocks one of the wheels .If the NF is out wide, and not making a fast turn ,especially down a bit of a hill ,not the side of a mountain, there shouldnt be an issue .A trailing implement with considerable tongue weight, helps keep the bum down, more than a mounted implement based on C of G,and you are not usually turning with it down anyway.Wheel tractors are inherently unstable , more so with speed .One of the Ag Universities in the UK many years ago were doing experiments when the first ROPS were in their infancy .They had a couple of different makes flop over at as little as 16 Degrees angle when severely mishandled,and they were wide fronts.Even on crawler tractors pulling heavy discs,fertiliser spreaders,etc on hill country on contour work ,you try to minimise down hill turns ,because usually thats the time it can go pear shaped .and they are way more stable than any wheel tractor.I have many hours on those , and on scrapers(carry-alls,pans ,depending where you come from) and down hill turns ,even when loaded ,you try to avoid because they can flop over before you realise whats happening. So a WF or NF is fine if you are careful on hilly or undulating country. On flatter ground ,a NF works very well, especially in row crop applications with small or narrow headlands .Thats just my 2 cents, not everyone will agree ,but that their prerogative . ( NB. that spelling is correct)

Thats more like it Mr Marty.They are probably 10000 lb axles ,so you have 30000 lbs minus trailer tare weight. That would be about 8500 lbs, ( depending on manufacturer, they are all a bit different .My 40 footer tri axle dually is 9000) but you have an allowance for the truck axle .Up here in Canada I am allowed up to 16060 lbs on my truck( single axle semi ) with 24.5 rubber. Now on your 1 ton, you certainly wont have that much of an allowance ,but there is going to be some ,again depending on what your state allows. We are also allowed the max weight on the tires. I.e here in Alberta there are 12 235-80 ,10 ply 16 Inch tires on the 40 footer rated at 3042 lbs per tire (weight varies depends on manufacturer) at 80 p.s.i ,so I am good for 36000 gross on the trailer .I have been over some often ,but I get the allowance on the drivers so am well clear .Not sure what the rules are down there, and here it varies province to province re the numbers .Long story short ,that trailer will work great for you as long as the old chev is ok with the stopping part .and the good is that the trailer has three good braking axles to help with that part of it.