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rustred

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About rustred

  • Birthday 03/22/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    westlock, ab can.
  • Interests
    collecting IHC stuff,auction sales.

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  1. and you are correct on that , as well i know that so that is why i said what i said. the shock load finished it off, due to the wear. if the tractor was new this would have not happened. so what is all this pin poking for, but thats alright i get to read more comments buddy...
  2. those are one of the best sounding J.D'S .always did like the sound of them even in the evening could her them for miles in the field. i bet those 2 will out pull the 830.
  3. did you loosen the oil drain plug first to drain off any antifreeze if there was any in the oil.? kind of a common procedure when you know you have coolant leaking into oil pan.
  4. you could pull the pan first . have a cardboard under it with rad full . then watch for drips on card board then inspect with a good light where they are coming from. can be a very slow drip . that would be the best thing to do, as taking apart first can be hit and miss on a slow leak.
  5. "... do they go all out once or does fatique take its toll over time?"... i was just answering the question you asked. and no front end loader wont do that. its physics. your welcome.
  6. you shock loaded a crack and that is the outcome.
  7. am not saying it will break all at once, but it is un necessary front weight that will do the damage in time. plain to see. pull it apart and inspect the crack you will see . the bounce finished it off.
  8. same thing as breaking a sick over your knee.
  9. plus it looks like your raking hay not spraying a crop.
  10. i hardly think so , what is the weight then of that sprayer. i am sure ur not driving with the front wheels off the ground. and if it bouced in the ruts and broke that tells the story.
  11. i think if you had over 400 lbs hanging off your belt buckle you would fall flat on your face too. weights go on the rear . if needed.
  12. you could use them for anything but mounting ties on.
  13. that is true . its just that the farmers were burning this cheap grade of fuel to save money, in the 30's and 40's, but in the end they ended up with worn out engines. so there was no saving. better off to just dump in 1/4 diesel fuel if you had two tanks. the engine has to be run HOT though.
  14. check the compression first and record it. set the valves to spec.( .017) . then recheck the compression. a valve set is part of a major tune up. as said the wires MUST be the wire core not carbon core. plus the timing has to be set to spec. it sure sounds like an exhaust flutter. plus you set the carb after the timing set, NOT before. open the main jet on the bottom 3-4 turns open at 5 turns the needle will be fully out of the seat for heavy pulling. set the mixture screw at 3/4 turn out. idle screw is 400 rpm. tractor should be starting with 1/2 a revolution crank, meaning when 1 cyl fires it should be running.
  15. is it just for looks or to run distillate? as disitllate is obsolete and you dont want to burn that garbage anyhow and wash down cyl. walls then burn oil.
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