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Posted
2 hours ago, lorenzo said:

Its not R-12 in it self that forms a phosgene but rather the composition of any refrigerant consisting of chlorine.  
Chlorine in the refrigerant was the compound mostly responsible for oil migration throughout the system. When the manufacturers were forced to remove chlorine from the refrigerants, the next problem was developing a synthetic oil to replace the mineral based oil that was widely used in systems, using refrigerants with chlorine. Then the next problem was the new synthetic oil was very hygroscopic. Yes that’s actually a word and it means high affinity for moisture. I could go on and on, but long story short, the removal of chlorine to “save the planet” caused a snowball of subsequent problems.

Finally, someone got the word right! I don't know how many times I've seen people write "hydroscopic".

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Posted
5 hours ago, sandhiller said:

Worse yet, if it comes in contact with extreme heat say as in welder sparks it can produce phosgene gas which was used as a chemical weapon in WWI

Very deadly in small concentrations ☠️

Always check the label

Only buy non-chlorinated brake clean

Few yrs back there were 4-5 stories in the "news' similar . 

Father son both perished ,building a roll cage for racer /Z  ,   one both cleaned aluminum etc with liberal BC ,then assembled and locked parts in form to be welded.

late that day or next day .....15 min of tig is all it took.

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Posted
1 hour ago, jeeper61 said:

3 cans of starting fluid W-T-F?

If you can't get it going with a few sprays stop,it's not a Deere 

I wonder if they tried jerking the steering wheel? 🤣

I am sure they poured that brake clean through is as well.not saying it did anything though. The new brake clean barely cleans😉 

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Posted
5 hours ago, sandhiller said:

Worse yet, if it comes in contact with extreme heat say as in welder sparks it can produce phosgene gas which was used as a chemical weapon in WWI

Very deadly in small concentrations ☠️

Always check the label

Only buy non-chlorinated brake clean

Few yrs back there were 4-5 stories in the "news' similar . 

Father son both perished ,building a roll cage for racer /Z  ,   one both cleaned aluminum etc with liberal BC ,then assembled and locked parts in form to be welded.

late that day or next day .....15 min of tig is all it took.

Ammonia was also used for early efficient factory ice.

At some point late 80's (mfg must have change formulas) rash of or near death/s from mixing cleaning products (old ammonia with "new" chlorine.)

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Posted
3 minutes ago, hillman said:

I am sure they poured that brake clean through is as well.not saying it did anything though. The new brake clean barely cleans😉 

Silicone lubricant spray works in place of starting fluid. Our diesel tech where I used to work used silicone spray when he had a diesel with non-functioning glow plugs. I couldn't tell you if it can cause any problems though.

 

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Posted
1 hour ago, zleinenbach said:

hey now don’t ruffle those feathers again!!!! 😂😂

My friend has a Deere wheel loader it's seen better days

I need to get a video of him warming it up that will ruffle them 

You have to spray it and when it starts you have to keep spraying it until the cylinders warm up enough for the rings to seal and it will run on its own  

20-30 seconds sometimes longer and that is the summer 

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Posted
On 11/22/2025 at 6:51 PM, stronger800 said:

Is there any merit to brake clean ingestion?  I’d say that stuff is dryer than either 

The green is, not red

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Posted
On 11/23/2025 at 9:33 AM, Skagit Farmer said:

Yes, it can form Phosgene gas.  Phosgene gas was used as a chemical weapon in WW1.

In 1975 IH special tools had burner head to fit a propane torch bottle fitted with a hose to draw air through to the flame. You were instructed to run the end of the hose past anywhere you thought there was a refrigerant leak. Any R12 would turn the flame yellow/green. It came with warnings about Phosgene gas (mustard gas). To use it only outdoors and not breathe any of the fumes. Not only dangerous but really didn't work very well either. Within a couple of years the electronic sniffers became available.

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Posted
14 minutes ago, Owen Aaland said:

In 1975 IH special tools had burner head to fit a propane torch bottle fitted with a hose to draw air through to the flame. You were instructed to run the end of the hose past anywhere you thought there was a refrigerant leak. Any R12 would turn the flame yellow/green. It came with warnings about Phosgene gas (mustard gas). To use it only outdoors and not breathe any of the fumes. Not only dangerous but really didn't work very well either. Within a couple of years the electronic sniffers became available.

We used those outfits when I went to mechanic school. I never used one in the real world. 

Posted

If there is biodiesel in the fuel system it may turn to paste in a few months causing problems. Not all cleaning solvents will dissolve the sticky mess. Stordard Solvent in my was tanks would not do anything to clean it up. Some brake cleaners work better than others.

Most likely your fuel problem is due to stuck pistons in the rotor. I was able to them freed up on my 460 by pressurizing the fuel system with the hand primer pump. I don't see that pump on your tractor. You could try to get the pistons to move by applying air pressure the the inlet port on the pump while cranking the engine. While the engine is running there may be 60 psi pushing the pistons out but there is very little pressure at ranking speed. If you are going to try this just make sure to either remove the top cover or the timing cover so that you don't build pressure in the pump housing.

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Posted

A friend bought a 560D that had been sitting in a three sided building for a reported 30 years, tank full of real diesel fuel. They put kite fuel in the tires and just for kicks installed a battery, cranked it over a couple times, and then started hitting the glow plugs on a trial and error basis. It fired right up and they drove it on the trailer.

Real diesel fuel means everything to combustion and mechanical longevity which is exactly why they deceptively browbeat it out of existence.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Owen Aaland said:

In 1975 IH special tools had burner head to fit a propane torch bottle fitted with a hose to draw air through to the flame. You were instructed to run the end of the hose past anywhere you thought there was a refrigerant leak. Any R12 would turn the flame yellow/green. It came with warnings about Phosgene gas (mustard gas). To use it only outdoors and not breathe any of the fumes. Not only dangerous but really didn't work very well either. Within a couple of years the electronic sniffers became available.

I have that tool just for memory sake, dont use it of course as I have an electronic sniffer.

Posted
8 hours ago, stronger800 said:

Did this tractor get going? Should I plan a trip?

I checked the basic stiff first, 

Fuel in tank, fuel at the filter outlets, fuel at inlet of injector pump.   Removed the top of the injector ( 3 screws) all nice and perfectly clean inside, everything moves freely inside, took the little timing cover off the side of injector pump, marked it to verify it is rotating , gently taped on the side, top and bottom of pump and still no fuel at the injector inlets.  It had one bad glow plug but that wasent the problem. 
 

I walked away from it for now and moved on to other projects. 
I will probably load it up and take it in to someone at Nebraska Equipment in Seward.

Posted
6 hours ago, Owen Aaland said:

In 1975 IH special tools had burner head to fit a propane torch bottle fitted with a hose to draw air through to the flame. You were instructed to run the end of the hose past anywhere you thought there was a refrigerant leak. Any R12 would turn the flame yellow/green. It came with warnings about Phosgene gas (mustard gas). To use it only outdoors and not breathe any of the fumes. Not only dangerous but really didn't work very well either. Within a couple of years the electronic sniffers became available.

That tool was really a pretty good method if you were patient and slowly went over each and every potential place that might leak.  I used one for years . It was called a Halide leak detector ,  A small copper plate with a hole in the center was screwed to the side of the torch chimney, once you set flame and the copper got red hot the refrigerant gets drawn into the flame by a sort of vacuum. The chlorine in the refrigerant reacted with the hot copper causing your flame to turn green. 
 

Next time your sitting around a camp fire make up some BS story about a ghost turning the fire green and when no one is looking throw a piece of copper into the fire, your friends will be amazed and think that your psychic.

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Posted

I don’t know if there would be any merit to this or not, with that style of pump, but I wouldn’t think lightly pressurizing the fuel tank with air would hurt anything.  I put a partially open air line in the tank and lightly pack a rag around it. To give fuel a push.

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Posted
21 hours ago, Drysleeves said:

Real diesel fuel means everything to combustion and mechanical longevity which is exactly why they deceptively browbeat it out of existence.

Just moved one ,hasnt been started since 2011,fuel <2005...GP circuit out, bad clamp cable terminals. Took 4 sniffs 1st time ,now just 1.

AS tank was <1/3. 2gal of 2023 went in + 1qt atf  this week....burns slightly faux  PC clean/er. 

Still Have 5 gal /dino< '95 in reserve,for projects....td6 -9  have +- 10Gal < '02  left as those were big tanks.

BTW current flux ,acids,de greaser ,and burning non chlorine BC ,did 0 toward cleaning OE, 00 cable to solder new ends on. 

Posted
8 minutes ago, mmi said:

Just moved one ,hasnt been started since 2011,fuel <2005...GP circuit out, bad clamp cable terminals. Took 4 sniffs 1st time ,now just 1.

AS tank was <1/3. 2gal of 2023 went in + 1qt atf  this week....burns slightly faux  PC clean/er. 

Still Have 5 gal /dino< '95 in reserve,for projects....td6 -9  have +- 10Gal < '02  left as those were big tanks.

BTW current flux ,acids,de greaser ,and burning non chlorine BC ,did 0 toward cleaning OE, 00 cable to solder new ends on. 

I dont have even the slightest clue  what in the world any of that ment.

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Posted
36 minutes ago, lorenzo said:

Just moved one ,hasnt been started since 2011,

That's all I really totally understood.

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Posted

For what it is worth, last time I had problems with a D282 I removed the return line at the pump to get it started.

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Posted
18 hours ago, Red Flyer said:

For what it is worth, last time I had problems with a D282 I removed the return line at the pump to get it started.

Yes i tried that first. Thankyou for mentioning that because i wasent sure if that was worth trying. I also blew through that line back into the tank to make sure the check balll in the tank was free. 

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