FARMALL FIXER

I think you are on to something here . With seals the guides are running too dry . I dont use the valve seals on my overhauls on turbocharged engines . The cylinders have air pressure in them on both the intake and exhaust strokes controlling excessive oil going past the guides . Never had an oil consumption problem by not putting in the seals . Just my 2 cents worth .

Turn the ignition switch on and grab a test light and see if it lights up on the terminal of the coil that comes from your ignition switch to see if you have power comming from switch if you do than move the test light to the other terminal with wire going to distributor and crank engine over the light should blink while cranking indicating your points are doing thier job . If light does not blink and lights steady it indicates your points are dirty , not closing or not making a ground which is basically what points do is make or break a ground causing the magnetic field to collapse in the secondary windings inside the coil creating a spark . If all of this checks OK the problem is the coil or coil wire , rotor or distributor cap not delivering the spark out the spark plug wires . Make sure rotor is turning when cranking engine as well .

Also check your TA spool linkage adjustment and make sure the spool in make the full travel when TA is shifted

Sounds to me like you have a tooth out of the park lock gear in the range transmission . The noise will be more prominent in reverse . To investigate it you will have to remove the aux fuel tank if the teactor is equipped with with one , and remove the side cover on the range trans and you should be able to see the range gears and inspect

I remember learning the PFC System not to long after they first came out . Yep " Pretty Fricken Confusing " is a pretty accurate term until one got to understand them .

Yep you are correct ....... I found that out the hard way once doing an overhaul . In a hurry and not paying attention to detail during assembly . They dont start worth a S**T if the pistons dont come to the top . Right overhaul kit per part # but wrong pistons in the kit . Got rhe honors of tearing it down again and installing correct pistons . Lesson learned !!

Yep I am a member

Pete ... I was a little unsure of where he was at in the repair . I was thinking he had replaced the TA clutch and had it back together and it would only move on the low side and no change when moving the lever ahead to direct . I certainly may have understood wrong .

Just a thought . When you replaced the TA clutch did you remove the 3 bolts that goe threw the pressure plate ? These should be removed after ppa installation as they keep the ppa released to aid in TA clutch installation . If not removed they keep the clutch disengaged which wont allow direct drive which os when the TA lever is forward .

J-Mech pretty much nailed it . You can turn up the smoke screw all a person wants but all you will get is more smoke and very little more HP without an increase in air to go along with the more fuel . Fuel + Air = HP

Check cam lift when you have the rocker shaft off .

Thinking it is possibly from high & low shift rail . Used to retain the fork on the rail . It what was before the the shift rail upgrade . There are E-Clips on the 3 point hitch vave linkage but none that would that size as I recall . It could be from a previos repair to the high and low shift rail .

A few years ago I installed one on an M . The disks were worn and needed replacement , I didnt know where to find some so I gave Hy-Capacity a call . I mailed one of the disks to them and they custom made some , customer wanted an extra set done besides for future use .

If I remember right it is a solid pin and there is a small soft plug on each side of shifter housing that retains the pin .

He is an unbelievable talented person !!