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Red Flyer

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Everything posted by Red Flyer

  1. Is that a "sometimes I just sit" chair?
  2. I have had good luck with coke.
  3. Rare one, only about 1000 made?
  4. I have always used the Stanadyne additive.
  5. Today I installed a new electric pump and was able to get the field finished. It still loses rpms once in a while but not as bad. I am at a place now that I can uncover the fuel tank and inspect all of the lines. I am not sure how you can attach a test gauge by the bleeder screw, must be a home made tool. I will keep working on that too. Thanks for all of your comments they are much appreciated. Not sure what I would do without this forum. APF
  6. Mine is 1999 model with the metal tank. When I remove the primary filter and turn the fuel valve on there seems to be plenty of gravity flow from the fuel tank.
  7. Still having the same problem. Checked all air ducts and found no obstructions. Put on a brand new vented fuel cap that I had sitting on the shelf. 80 degrees this morning let the engine warm up for 5-10 minutes and started down the rows of wheat, well that lasted about 5 minutes this time before I started loosing power again. Usually I get about 2400 engine rpm with no load but appears to have a hard time getting to 2400. Maybe it is time to start looking at the fuel return check valve that Farmall Doctor was talking about. Really glad I have this forum and all the help it provides.
  8. I have a new vented fuel cap sitting on the shelf and will try that tomorrow. Also check the fuel supply line.
  9. Well I capped of the waster gate line at the tee (#5). I started about 1130 am this morning ran for about 30 min covered about 1/2 mile of wheat and the same symptoms came back. Even when I was at the end of the row with no load on the rotor the engine spooled down to about 1800 rpm. Must be something else.
  10. Electric pump in front of the primary fuel filter.
  11. Just got started on the wheat harvest and the combine started acting up. Rotor rpm's started dropping so stopped and checked front, rear and sides but no obstructions in the rotor.. Then I noticed the engine rpm was dropping quickly as well. Checked air filter and replaced fuel filters even though they had 300 hrs. Still same symptoms. When I was bleeding the air out of the filters I noticed a abnormal sound coming from the fuel pump. Well now I am going to replace the fuel pump as soon as I can get one. Any other suggestions? 4400 engine hrs 3600 rotor hrs. APF
  12. First off, I have found this thread to be most interesting and informative. I have had this 806D for about five years that I paid $1000.00 for with a stuck engine. After overhauling 2 gas engines. (farmall 230 and farmall M) I decided to tackle a Diesel engine. I call the 806 my trade school tractor because I tore it all apart and did get it running just as a learning project. I do know that one of the liners it not that tight, the clutch is bad as is the T/A. I have a short block from a salvage yard that claims it has 400 hrs since overhaul. The short block is black and a C block. So my first question, are there oversized liners available or do they have to be painted up with aluminum paint? Or should I take a chance on the short block? Also the injector pump and injectors have been overhauled and a new mcv pump has been installed. Thanks in advance of you comments. APF
  13. Like the green in the air intake.
  14. Not hard to do at all. I like to clean up the commutator on a small lathe so it has good contact with the brush. Make sure you have GOOD cables.
  15. Starts filming here again in May for the next season.
  16. Red Flyer

    new ride

    Most uncomfortable car I have ever sat in that is 2 yrs old.
  17. Red Flyer

    new ride

    Wife has one. I hate it.
  18. Dad had one. It was a good day when he sold it.
  19. I am trying to install a new muffler and tailpipe on a 1986 F-250. When I got the pipe and muffler I put a magnet on the pipe and muffler to see if it is steel or stainless. The magnet stuck and then I find out that some stainless exhaust pipe will hold a magnet. My original plan was to weld it with a mig welder and not use the clamps that came with the kit. If I do weld it I assume that I will need stainless welding wire and then how do I transition from OEM steel to new stainless pipe. Should I just clamp it and forget about welding it? Should I not worry about it and just weld it. Four pieces that came in the kit will all slip together. Thanks in advance for the comments. Arlin
  20. We put one in 5 years ago for the A/C mostly. When the heat side kicked in it did not do well below 25 deg F.
  21. Stevens Model 67. Must have been the auto correct.
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