5488 air conditioning

[mrfred54]

Have tried everything under the sun with this tractor. Air works but not very cold at all. What I have done, receiver drier, expansion valve,cleaned evaporator heater core,new foam on cab cover,cab filter and recirculation vent working properly, cleaned out and flush all the lines, washed and flushed condenser and radiator very very good. Draw a vacuum on the system for 35 minutes, bout 27-28 inches of vacuum. By the time I get about 14 or so ounces of Freon in it is already close to 250 lbs on the high side on my gauges. Before I started on this tractor, when I hooked up the gauges the high side was up to about 335 lbs. The low side was about 35 lbs. Can't get cold air out of this system and high side pressure gets so high, the high pressure kicks the system off. Hope someone has idea what to do. Talked to local dealer and everything they suggested I already done. Sorry this post is so long.

[TB5288]

58 minutes ago, mrfred54 said:

Have tried everything under the sun with this tractor. Air works but not very cold at all. What I have done, receiver drier, expansion valve,cleaned evaporator heater core,new foam on cab cover,cab filter and recirculation vent working properly, cleaned out and flush all the lines, washed and flushed condenser and radiator very very good. Draw a vacuum on the system for 35 minutes, bout 27-28 inches of vacuum. By the time I get about 14 or so ounces of Freon in it is already close to 250 lbs on the high side on my gauges. Before I started on this tractor, when I hooked up the gauges the high side was up to about 335 lbs. The low side was about 35 lbs. Can't get cold air out of this system and high side pressure gets so high, the high pressure kicks the system off. Hope someone has idea what to do. Talked to local dealer and everything they suggested I already done. Sorry this post is so long.

Add a secondary condenser from HyCap or other aftermarket supplier. Will make major difference with high side pressure.

[acem]

Sounds like a blockage, probably at the expansion valve. 

Take the cab top off and take the foam off.  Run the system and see what is hot and what is cold if anything.  Looking at the coils, tubing, expansion valve and all can often be informative.

 

[FarmerFixEmUp]

I put both of these on my 5288 to get the pressure down , 

https://www.hy-capacity.com/air-conditioning/condensers/condensers/pid5913/condenser-auxiliary-kit-serpentine/

https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=127812

 

134 freon runs really high pressure when your condenser isn't getting enough airflow across it. I have Duracool in all my tractors. On the 5288 it runs about 25 and 240. 

[tractorholic]

7 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

I put both of these on my 5288 to get the pressure down , 

https://www.hy-capacity.com/air-conditioning/condensers/condensers/pid5913/condenser-auxiliary-kit-serpentine/

https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=127812

 

134 freon runs really high pressure when your condenser isn't getting enough airflow across it. I have Duracool in all my tractors. On the 5288 it runs about 25 and 240. 

Where did you mount the extra condenser?

[mrfred54]

8 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

I put both of these on my 5288 to get the pressure down , 

https://www.hy-capacity.com/air-conditioning/condensers/condensers/pid5913/condenser-auxiliary-kit-serpentine/

https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=127812

 

134 freon runs really high pressure when your condenser isn't getting enough airflow across it. I have Duracool in all my tractors. On the 5288 it runs about 25 and 240. 

Is the hycapacity  condenser same size as original??

[Diesel Doctor]

I heard of an A/C trick that works on anything.

Most vehicles and tractors run heat to the heater core and cab year around.

That puts all the A/C cooling really close to the heater.

The trick is to install a shutoff on one of the heater lines to the cab.

Shut that off in the summer and it makes a big difference in the A/C.

Turn the valve back on in the fall and the heater works as it should.

 

 

[midnightman]

19 minutes ago, Diesel Doctor said:

I heard of an A/C trick that works on anything.

Most vehicles and tractors run heat to the heater core and cab year around.

That puts all the A/C cooling really close to the heater.

The trick is to install a shutoff on one of the heater lines to the cab.

Shut that off in the summer and it makes a big difference in the A/C.

Turn the valve back on in the fall and the heater works as it should.

 

 

This definitely made a noticeable few degrees difference on my 5088. I have always done this seasonally.

[FARMALL FIXER]

You have a restriction on the high side somewhere. If you only put 14 oz in and getting those kind of high side pressures that is not right.

If you are sure all your lines are free and clear , and your radiator and condenser are absolutely clean the next thing I would look at is your rec drier, I know you replaced it but new is not allways with out a problem with a new part.

[HydroTek]

2 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

I heard of an A/C trick that works on anything.

Most vehicles and tractors run heat to the heater core and cab year around.

That puts all the A/C cooling really close to the heater.

The trick is to install a shutoff on one of the heater lines to the cab.

Shut that off in the summer and it makes a big difference in the A/C.

Turn the valve back on in the fall and the heater works as it should.

 

 

 

The '88 series has a valve on the engine already -- unless it is broken

[HydroTek]

1 hour ago, FARMALL FIXER said:

You have a restriction on the high side somewhere. If you only put 14 oz in and getting those kind of high side pressures that is not right.

If you are sure all your lines are free and clear , and your radiator and condenser are absolutely clean the next thing I would look at is your rec drier, I know you replaced it but new is not allways with out a problem with a new part.

Radiator is likely plugged at the bottom , where the air flows for the AC condenser core

The radiator on the '88 series plugs from the bottom to the top 
so no or little air flow over the condenser core
AC not cooling is one of the first indicators of a plugged radiator on those models 

[brahamfireman]

One trick is to spray water on the condenser,  if pressures drops then you're not getting enough air flow over it. One other thing to do is shut it down and watch pressures. It should equalize to about ambient air temp. If it takes forever to equalize,  you've got something plugged.

Only time I've had high pressures like that was plugged expansion valve. Our 5088 just got new expansion valve, dryer, and suction hose in the A pillar. It would hold vacuum for a few hours then slowly dropped. Found a very rusty suction line on the pillar, Now it cools great. 

[Doc Egor]

Does the 88 series have quick disconnects in the lines to the cab like the 86 series did?

Used to run into situations like what is described here when there were issues with those things.....went to a SOP of knocking the guts out of them when an 86 came in for AC work as it eliminated some of the high pressure problems.

 

 

[FarmerFixEmUp]

6 hours ago, mrfred54 said:

Is the hycapacity  condenser same size as original??

Yes, I believe it has more fins per inch than the original. 

 

6 hours ago, tractorholic said:

Where did you mount the extra condenser?

It attaches to the back of the oil cooler. 

 

 

[FarmerFixEmUp]

26 minutes ago, Doc Egor said:

Does the 88 series have quick disconnects in the lines to the cab like the 86 series did?

Used to run into situations like what is described here when there were issues with those things.....went to a SOP of knocking the guts out of them when an 86 came in for AC work as it eliminated some of the high pressure problems.

 

 

No disconnects, when you split these you can take the condenser and compressor off while still attached and not lose any freon. 

[mrfred54]

This is the third receiver drier and expansion valve on this tractor. I can bring the pressure down with the water trick, but it will NOT cool good. Have cleaned the radiator over and over and it is absolutely clean. The pressures will equalize after shut down but it does take about 10 minutes. The suction line never sweats on this tractor. Think I'm also going to try a new suction hose as suggested. The heater valves are closed and removed a heater hose just to make sure there is no coolant flowing through a valve. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

[FARMALL FIXER]

9 hours ago, HydroTek said:

Radiator is likely plugged at the bottom , where the air flows for the AC condenser core

The radiator on the '88 series plugs from the bottom to the top 
so no or little air flow over the condenser core
AC not cooling is one of the first indicators of a plugged radiator on those models 

I agree. I remove the front hood and grill and fan and loosen and tip the condenser and oil cooler out l, than wash it out.

[snoshoe]

Not the authority here but a couple ideas. Any restriction post condenser should result in lower suction pressures and a resulting cold spot at the restriction. If still original style compressor. While turning by hand should feel two compression strokes per revolution. Are you sure the belt isn't slipping? What I'm getting at is maybe the compressor isn't pulling enough. Next would be to use your temp gun and check in and out Temps of condenser and evaporator. And compare them to Temps indicated by your pressure gauges. That should also indicate your superheat and supercool.

[mrfred54]

17 minutes ago, FARMALL FIXER said:

I agree. I remove the front hood and grill and fan and loosen and tip the condenser and oil cooler out l, than wash it out.

Went so far that we removed the radiator,condenser and oil cooler from tractor so I know the radiator is not the issue

 

12 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Not the authority here but a couple ideas. Any restriction post condenser should result in lower suction pressures and a resulting cold spot at the restriction. If still original style compressor. While turning by hand should feel two compression strokes per revolution. Are you sure the belt isn't slipping? What I'm getting at is maybe the compressor isn't pulling enough. Next would be to use your temp gun and check in and out Temps of condenser and evaporator. And compare them to Temps indicated by your pressure gauges. That should also indicate your superheat and supercool.

compressor is original, haven't checked the compression strokes but I will. Kinda ruled out the compressor because it will build high pressure but I will check it out

[mrfred54]

Just got done looking at parts book for the 50 series. Can someone tell me the difference in the fan blades. Lists fan for the 50 and 52 and a different one for the 54. Just wondering if this tractor may have the wrong fan. Maybe should have a couple more blades or different pitch????  Engine does not run extra hot but just looking for anything with this air conditioning

[FarmerFixEmUp]

I believe the 5288 fan has 6 blades and 5488 has 8. 5488 might be bigger diameter too. The 5488 I had moved a lot more air than my 5288. 

[acem]

I don't remember exactly how the 5488 is plumbed, but are there any ports where you can check pressures in the system other than the standard ports?

Often the pressure switches can be removed and gauges hooked up in their location.

[snoshoe]

11 minutes ago, acem said:

I don't remember exactly how the 5488 is plumbed, but are there any ports where you can check pressures in the system other than the standard ports?

Often the pressure switches can be removed and gauges hooked up in their location.

Think you're after the same thing I was only I was using temps.

[HydroTek]

We don't "try parts" like the suction line just to see if that "fixes the problem" ...either a part is bad or it is not

The fact that the compressor can make enough pressure to trip the high switch , says the compressor is likely OK

...and that also means there is too much refrigerant in the system
Unless the system is overheated , all of the gas will fit comfortably in the high side of the system , without tripping the switch

I get you say the radiator is "clean" but, can you shine a light thru the area below the fan shaft ?
that radiator is problematic about plugging in the lower area 
since it has more rows and finer fins that previous models

Just a simple blowing out with an air hose will not work
Gonna need to either remove the radiator
or remove the fan and air director so you can get a straight shot at the fins to blow the dirt out
...then wash with water until you see the water flow between the fins on the opposite side
...and shine that light thru, so you can know the fins are clean 

You can also remove the side cover and use a shop rag laid on the fins with the engine at idle to see the effect of air flow
-- the rag will "stick" to the fins if the radiator is clean 

I generally replace the core with the straight thru type like used on the combines
That radiator is more than large enough for that tractor in the first place , and the slight loss of cooling from the straight design is not noticed

Testing the pressures at the service ports is plenty 'good enough'
that pressure should be equalizing in about a minute after the compressor is off
but too much gas in the system will cause longer times , like you have

On a hot day , we are looking for about 30 on the low side and 225 on the high side
These are average pressures -- high side will vary with temperature

Air flow over the evaporator core is important to get good "cool" in the cab
the foam blocks in the top of the cab need to be addressed so air is not flowing past the core
If you are a smoker, you may wind up replacing the evap core from the coating getting on the fins

It can be cleaned, but at my rate , it is not cost effective 

[acem]

Great information above.

However based on your description, I would bet you have a blockage in the freon system.  Probably at the expansion valve.