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Diesel Doctor

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Everything posted by Diesel Doctor

  1. I had a demand heater years ago and it was a pain, so I removed. it. Was supposed to, once a month, drain it and use some chemical to clean it internally to get the scale off it. The wife finally revolted and I went back to a 30 gallon natural gas. Wife happy, problem solved! Are the newer heaters any better? I have heard of small ones under a sink on 110v. Do these work and for an extended period of time?
  2. Maybe Jensales or Waltstractors could have one. They didn't say "NO". I would have the checkbook at the ready if you find one. If you are going to haggle over the price, you will probably go without. I do know that Meyer's Tractor Salvage buys up all the old "killer" tractors in this area and he parts them out They had a lot of the old stuff. Give Paul a call and see what he has. http://www.meyerstractor.com/
  3. There are four different single front wheels. One uses a 6.50X16 tire with Timken tapered roller bearings in the front axle. 49111BD The other uses a 6.50X16 tire with brass bushings in the hub that runs on the front axle. The odd one runs a 7.50X10 tire with brass bushings in the hub that runs on the front axle. 49113DB You can also get the single front wheel on steel. 67877D for 10" or 67878D for the 16". I am not sure but it appears the ones without Timken tapered bearings may run in 90 wt gear oil as there is a gasket between the two halves of the hub and also grease seals on each end. I have never been that close to these.
  4. Unsure if the drain plug is right, or wrong, but I like it. It may drain slower but the threads are steel to steel rather than aluminum to steel. The worst case is the reducer gets messed up and you have to replace it. That is only once that you removed it from the aluminum. I would leave it as is, no matter if it is M&W factory or not.
  5. Only use steel line for oil pressure. The vibration of the tractor will crack a copper line fast. You will then have a leak. The oil in the line will not compress but the air will. If it reads 40 psi it is because the air is compressed to that 40 psi mark. Like they say, you can't see inside a steel line so you never know what physics is happening inside.
  6. Those are usually stuck and need to be destroyed to get them out. You then need to clean the lower area where the thermostat fits into. The thermostat must easily move up and down in the casting to properly operate. If the new thermostat sticks anywhere, it will not work correctly and will usually overheat.
  7. Those 14's are a lot of work but you always want to do it all, so you know it is right. An overhaul is just dotting the I's and crossing the T's to insure all is within specs. When you get her finished up, take her out and use her like a rented mule. This is where I loved the dyno and the pyrometer. A good 1/2 hour, or more, at max power will force the rings out and seat them well. No wonder I can't hear. Standing beside them when screaming with the exhaust right out of the turbo elbow. Music!
  8. I seen a guy use an air hammer to get things loose. He used a blunt bit in the hammer and just moved it over the area you want broken loose. The rust just flew and soon things came apart easily. The vibration caused the rust to break up and fall out of the cracks. It was quite amazing to watch.
  9. Here is the parts list for the clutch assist cylinder. Looks like only five o-rings to overhaul it other than the seals at each end. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/tractors/agricultural/naaa01agr079over100hp/international-66-series-diesel-tractor/drive-train/drive-train-clutch-booster/cn/8332AC82-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/22CB6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
  10. Back up to the IH Construction Equipment site on this forum. Those guys know where it all is. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/forum/9-ih-construction-equipment/
  11. The RD was an IH made pump that originally came on the 806. They had their issues and IH soon came out with a kit to replace the RD with a Roosa Master.
  12. Today's news agencies only seem to report on the doom and gloom. Always remember, there are good people in this world. May God bless them all!
  13. There is nothing on Ebay. Call any of the major salvage yards. They can talk among themselves until they find one for you.
  14. The dirt daubers, birds and other pests will build nests ahead of the air cleaner. Remove the air cleaner and make sure the tube running from the air cleaner to the grill above the radiator is clear. You will be surprised what is found in here. And it don't take much of a restriction to change performance.
  15. Strip that rear end and transmission down to nothing. Then rebuild it with any needed bearings and all new seals. Look at the age of that Ol Girl? She needs a bit of TLC!
  16. I'm from the federal government and here to help?
  17. Before DEF, I would be more concerned with batteries. The computers and electrical equipment can drain a battery in less than two weeks. Unless running battery tenders? These units usually have more batteries to run all the gizmos but must be able to start and go, when needed.
  18. I will not go through Des Moines, Iowa without stopping at Smokey D's BBQ They have the best burnt ends I have ever ate.
  19. This is a terrific idea and it looks beyond great. I can remember the wood letters above the parts counter. Was that a special font or did IH come up with their own. I would like to cut out some words, like "PARTS", "SALES", etc. But would like the correct font so they look correct. Does anyone know or do I need to copy off someones known letters? I happened onto this picture of what I am talking about.
  20. A farmer brought in a Roosa Master pump with the head seized and the drive shaft twisted off. I overhauled it and put a new shaft in it and offered to come put it on for him. He informed me that he was smart enough to put a pump on. I later found this pump ran for less than a minute, seized the head and again twisted the drive shaft. Since I knew NOTHING, he took the pump to a reputable pump shop and they also rebuilt it. That one also ran for less than a minute. Since none of us knew NOTHING, he ordered a new one out of IH. I told him I would put it on and he grumbled, NO. I told him that if the new one also seized that he was out a lot of money and if I seized it, the shop was out the money. He stormed out of the shop but later that day, the tractor appeared in the shop. (His billfold rubbing up against his sanity!) I put the pump on and timed it. I rolled the flywheel back to recheck the timing and the pump continued to turn the same direction. I pulled the pump off and slid a Crescent wrench on the pump drive shaft. (To this day, I check all drive shafts this way) I could turn that shaft about 30 degrees with a loud clunk at each end. I pulled the front cover off and found the pump drive gear bearings had failed and had pulled the retaining bolt right out of the block. It was just floating around in there. ( How the farmer had me fix the timing gear is another story? ) The pump drive shaft cannot be out of round more than 0.003 so this floating gear was way over that. The point is, there is a place to learn and a place to hire a pro and learn? If you have never seen it done before, and do not know what to look for, then can you do it, probably yes. But is it worth the gamble since a pro can have that put back on and running and timed in less than an hour. Not that it is, but if something else is wrong, you are gambling with a lot of money. Your choice!
  21. I just went on the Case/IH site looking for the part #, etc for the conversion kit, and what you get with it. I wasn't able to find it. I did find a REF # that said to buy the complete pump and that was to fit the 806. Now someone, with the 806 IH service manuals, needs to research the conversion. If you could find a parted out 806 with the Roosa Pump, with the higher serial #, you could get the Roosa kit that came from the factory. You can then probably use your pump, if you wish. Or determine what you have is correct.
  22. Sad to see that drug abuse pushed Ansel to this extent. Or was it insanity that pushed him to drugs. In any event, Australia lost great men on that date. I also remember a drug crazed Australian who was shot dead at the 50th Sturgis Rally. He had been up for days using drugs. Minutes before his death, was driving his Crocodile Dundee knife through the front doors of Sturgis residents. He attacked a hand full of law enforcement just standing in the street. Law enforcement put him down before anyone was hurt. No one wins!
  23. I have seen that many degrees of slack in the timing. You are taking the slack out of three gears and the pump drive before things start to move. I always backed a flywheel back about a foot before bringing the timing back up to verify the pump timing. I have never installed a Roosa Master kit from the RD pump. I suspect that pump was pulled off another engine and installed on your 806. It probably was not made to fit your 806. So they had to McGiver the adapters to align the timing gears. I have seen that button cover before but I cannot remember where. You can either run it like it is, as it appears it works rather well, or look for the proper pump, adapter and gears for a true 806. I suspect you will be happier with how it runs, if you do.
  24. That Cub Cadet teaches them how things work. When you steer left, or right, what happens. When you hit the brakes, what happens. When you hit Dad's pickup, what happens. This may be smaller but this is where the learning really starts.
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