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Everything posted by TB5288

  1. Take the seat out and replace it with an air suspension seat. You will be very happy if you do. Expensive, but well worth it.
  2. Yes, it does. I had it in my mind that the 2nd hose on the top sending unit was fuel return like the 50 Series International. Forgot that the fuel return went to bottom tank so, yes, the vent hose from bottom tank goes to top tank. Thanks for your reply.
  3. Where does the vent hose on the lower tank run to? Not the top tank, the bottom.Thanks.
  4. Yes, I can turn it until the drain pipe hits the manifold.
  5. I'm rebuilding the engine in an 8950. The turbo that was on it had waste-gate. The new turbo I'm installing is non waste-gate, probably the same turbo as 7140 used. I have a question on the turbo drain pipe. I have the flexible/formable drain pipe. These pipes only start flexing about 2 inches down from where it mounts to the turbo. Because of this I'm not able to have the drain exactly at the bottom, it's at a bit of an angle because the drain pipe hits the exhaust manifold and it's not flexible at the spot. Has anyone done this? Looks like a 7140 has a formed drain pipe that is probably bent just a little by the mounting flange. Do I need to get that pipe/setup? Does it matter if the drain is not at the bottom? If you look at the turbo from the air intake end, the drain is probably not quite at the 7 o'clock position.
  6. What is your gauge doing? Not reading? Always full? First test the wiring circuit. At the bottom tank, 1-remove the wire that attaches to the center on the sending unit, 2-turn ignition key on, 3-ground the wire you just removed. The gauge should show completely full with the wire grounded. If it doesn't there is a problem in the wiring from bottom tank to gauge cluster or a problem in cluster. If it shows full, move on. 4-there are 2 wires at the bottom sending unit, connect them together somehow and make sure the connection is not touching anything metal, 5-remove center wire from top sending unit, 6-ground that wire with key on, the gauge should show full, if it doesn't you have a problem in the wire from top tank to bottom tank, if it does move on. 6-the 2nd wire on the top sending sending unit supplies ground to the circuit. This wire causes a lot of the problems with these gauges. Unhook it from the sending unit and touch this wire and center wire together. This should peg gauge full, if it doesn't then you have a problem with the ground wire. If it does show full touching the 2 wires together then the wiring circuit is good, the problem is in the sending units. Knowing how the gauge has been acting will help to say which one.
  7. Don't forget, the center plug in differential housing does not drain axle housing. Need to remove small plugs closer to axle housings to drain them. That's where the metal will be.
  8. Ok, thanks. That is the way I have it installed. The oil cooler hose wasn't too bad to deal with because I had it unhooked from the cooler for other reasons. I was able to roll the complete hose as needed. Thanks again.
  9. I looked at parts breakdown. The t fitting that is installed shows to be T'd into steering return. But the port it is showing is cooler return. Another question is " does it matter if either is used?"
  10. I'm adding the hydraulic motor return to an 8950. I have the T fitting and hose to add to hydraulic filter base. I have a question. Does the turn hose get T'd into the oil cooler return or steering return? The parts schematic shows it with the steering return but I thought it was supposed to be with cooler return.
  11. No saddle tanks, no extra suit case weights. I'll probably turn the dish out and attach the wheel so the biggest portion of the offset on the wheel is to the inside. This will get me a little wider but not at it's widest. I'm just trying to get a little more clearance between wheel and frame so I can set steering stops a little tighter. No row crop, so that's a non issue.
  12. Ok, I'm assuming you had wheel spacers to get them spaced waay out?? I don't need anything like that. I'm just thinking of turning the dish out attaching to wheel to where it is widest.
  13. Any problem with setting front wheels at their widest setting? I haven't seen many set at widest mark. Does it cause too much stress to hub and pivot bearings?
  14. Nothing in the cab works when it won't stay running. I'm sure since the cab solenoid it not turning on. I know the wire you're talking about and will take it off to clean connection.
  15. Got another question or 2. So the problem I'm trying to find is that the tractor will not stay running sometimes after it's started. The hold in coil is not getting energized on the fuels shutoff solenoid. It's very intermittent, most of the time it stays running fine. So it's hard to find. So I understand how the instrument cluster sends power to the fuel shut-off and over-ride relays after the engine is running and ignition switch at "run" position. One question is what signal is the instrument cluster looking for in order to keep the engine running? I would imagine engine oil pressure, anything else? Also, when the engine does not want to stay running, it makes no difference if I push the over-ride switch. It still does not stay running. That makes me think the problem is not with that circuit. Would anyone agree with that? Another thing I noticed is when the engine does not stay running the signal wire on the cab solenoid is not getting power. It looks like the circuit that supplies power to the cab solenoid also supplies power to the fuels shut-off relay and over-ride switch. It looks like the signal wire runs from the ignition switch straight to the cab solenoid and my problem should be in that wire. Is there any common problem that causes this? I have not traced that wire yet.
  16. The sentry unit gets power from left battery, unless it's been moved to cab solenoid. This would be one of the first things to check. Did you try shifting between 1-2,3-4, of 5-6? You should hear the tractor make this shift. Even with range in neutral and clutch up. If you can't hear anything when making these shifts, the sentry module (assuming it still has one) is not getting power.
  17. Make sure the clutch pedal is coming up all the way. Sounds like it's not and that's cutting pressure to apply clutches.
  18. I guess my main problem right now is PAI needs the engine serial number. Anyway of knowing what the original serial number was? Or are you saying what I have "is" the serial number but they will not get it to come up under Cummins?
  19. Ok so now another problem. I contacted PAI. She asked for engine serial number. No problem, I have a picture of the engine data plate, all the information is very clear. She tells me serial number is wrong, it doesn't come up. Well there is not doubt what is on the tag. I log on to Cummins website, enter engine serial number. I get the same message, "serial number not found". What's going on here?? If this was a reman engine would the serial number "not" show up?
  20. There are so many after-market options anymore it's hard to know which to stay away from.
  21. Direct from them or through a dealer? This would be for an 8950.
  22. What is an approved aftermarket brand for an overhaul kit? I have installed several Maxxiforce kits in IH engines and I have to say I've never had a problem with any of them. I know some will not agree, nobody agrees on everything. What about AgKits? Not sure what brand they sell. I'm thinking of an exchange head also. They offer a "new" head that seems pretty reasonable. Is it junk? If it's new, who would be manufacturing a new head?
  23. Anybody know there is a wiring diagram available on-line? I doubt it but thought I'd ask. The cab solenoid is not always getting activated and when it doesn't activate the signal wire is dead. I wanting to find out what route that wire takes from the ignition switch to the solenoid.
  24. TB5288


    Run the engine with valve cover off and see what you can see. Pour some fluorescent dye in the fuel tank.
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