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TB5288

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Everything posted by TB5288

  1. What do you mean the clutch is soft? If you lose hydraulic pressure, the clutch should be hard to push.
  2. Well, acem, obviously it's your decision on how to do the repair. CIHTECH gave good directions on how to do it on the engine. The reason I would do it on the engine is because your initial comment said it runs great. If you had said it's hard starting, or hard starting when hot, or anything other than it runs great, it would pull it off and send to pump shop. Another factor may be your budget, but maybe that part doesn't matter. On the engine you can probably fix it for $20-$30. If you send it to pump shop, who knows. But then again, the pump shop may catch something going wrong now instead of when it breaks. Your choice on what to do but I would not let the aspect of how difficult it would be to repair on the engine affect your decision. It's not a hard job.
  3. For what it takes to see the timing marks in order to remove the pump it's easier to remove the head with the pump on the engine and replace the square ring that's leaking.
  4. Thank You. Do you know if this is the same turbo as the 316468 turbo ihrondiesel is running? There's so many dang turbo models it's hard to know which is the right one to go with.
  5. When it quits does the steering wheel spin and tires don't turn or does steering wheel get hard to turn? I wouldn't condemn the hand pump without more diagnosing. Cylinder could very well be the problem or spindles seizing.
  6. Would you happen to know the part number of the turbo you are running?
  7. So you're saying like a 7150 did not have a waste gate?
  8. Thanks, I'd appreciate it.
  9. Does anyone know the part number for an S300 turbo?
  10. Yeah the Detroit in my truck now will boost up to 48 psi but I set the liner profusion at .004 to handle it. But a truck engine doesn't run at max HP for long periods of time. A farm tractor doing tillage work could be a little different, it probably runs at higher HP/boost levels for longer periods of time. I really don't want to raise liner heights to hold more boost on this tractor. That's why I'm asking.
  11. Anyone know what max turbo pressure should be on an 8950? It's got the waste gate, when should it open? Also, can I install a non waste gate turbo if I need to replace it? Well I know I can, but will it generate too much boost?
  12. Thank you bitty got the chart. Yeah I'm trying to talk myself out of removing the tank. I opened the drain on the bottom tank and the didn't seem to be anything but clean fuel coming out.
  13. Well, pump to the shop and tore down. Not good, not good at all. Pump must have sat with water in it for a while. Lots of rust on plungers and barrels. $3500.00. I don't know why it ran as good as it did. I doubt injectors are much better the way the pump looked. Fuel tanks coming off to make sure they are clean. Not looking forward to removing the bottom tank, it's got the one that wraps around axle housing. On another note, anyone know what the accumulator charge should be?
  14. I pulled the pump tonight, we'll see what they find.
  15. Fuel transfer pump is new also.
  16. I had just replaced the fuel return valve with the latest greatest style. I realize that doesn't mean it's good but the reason I replaced it was because of low fuel pressure. It fixed the low pressure fuel problem at that time, that was only about five engine hours ago.
  17. Well this one will be a little hard to explain. When my 8950 gets good and warm the engine has a "stutter" or "flutters" when running at any speed and "no load". It does not do this when pulling and does not do it until good and warm. When it's parked it'll actually shake the tractor a little bit. Plus today I had a god awful gear noise coming from I think the transmission. I think it's gear chatter from the engine fluttering, at least I'm hoping that's what it is. It all runs fine on the field. Anyone ever heard of such a thing? It's like the governor has a problem, but I've not heard one like this. First I thought it was missing out, but I don't think so. I cracked each injector line, they all act the same. Check exhaust manifold when first started and everything consistent there also. But, it sounds fine when cold. While revving up it's smooth and when it reaches set speed it starts fluttering again. Exhaust is steady, very little blow by and it's consistent. Anyone got any ideas? I have not checked valve adjustment. Timing good, fuel pressure good. Don't know boost pressure but don't think that's anything with this problem. Appreciate any thoughts.
  18. So you had the "keyed" countershaft installed and not the "splined" countershaft? The keyed shaft was the update.
  19. I'd be curious to know how much of your tractor is Case-IH? I mean I doubt there's much being used from a 5240 but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe I'm crossing the line asking these things, but I know very little about this sport. Are the transmission/rearend housings Case-IH? Cummins engine?
  20. Did you go through the process to "Center" the shoe assembly before tightening bolts?
  21. Can somebody please explain to me how the hydraulic couplers on an 8950 are supposed to function? I mean there's a drain hose a leak off hose and I've got oil coming on both of them. When should I have oil in the leak off hose that ties back into the reservoir housing? When I activate one of the valves I got a steady stream of oil coming out of the drain hose. Obviously that is not right, but what is the problem? Just a coupler?
  22. Well if that's not the problem I still give Farmall Doctor an A+ for coming up with that theory! It sure makes sense that that could be the problem. Well done!
  23. Injector harness or poor connection where it passes through valve cover. Ground is your problem,those 3 share same group circuit.
  24. When does it jump out? Is it when letting clutch out and torquing up the gears? That's usually when it happens. Depending on how long it's been doing this, I know you said he just bought it so maybe he doesn't know, the engagement teeth in the collar can wear at an angle. If this happens there's nothing that will fix it other than replacing parts. Why it only jumps out in 3rd is a good question, seems like that could be a coincidence. Like ksfarm said, linkage adjustments. I know you said it's been done, but this problem "usually" is related to linkage adjustments. Roll pins, clevis pins, ball joints. Make sure these are good. With this shift linkage setup, there's a lot of places a little looseness can add up to alot overall.
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