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TB5288

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Everything posted by TB5288

  1. Most of the trucks we had come in that would have had the 360 in it, now had the T444E in it.
  2. You can take the compressor housing off the turbo also. Just remove the 6 bolt and it slides off
  3. I think he's saying he's not able to rotate the compressor housing because it's hitting the intake pipe. Plus the turbo isn't fully mounted, so it's only going to get closer when he does. I agree with what you're saying. This one does look a little odd to me.
  4. Are the rears set wide to complete to job or do you run them like that?
  5. You can remove the spools from the valve bodies from the back and replace seals for the spools. If it's leaking between the valve bodies then you have to remove the valve bodies. There's also the fittings on top of the valves where the pipes attach that run to the couplers. O-rings to replace here. Lots of possibilities. Probably best to replace all o-rings.
  6. If the tractor has a loader on it do not install taper mate. I have broke 10-12 over the years on 2 tractors, and that's not an exaggeration. Maybe I'm too rough on them but I spent big $'s going back to OEM and haven't broken on since. Got taper mate from Abilene, Hy-Cap, All-State, they are all the same.
  7. Set screws may have come lose on shift fork, have had that happen. But there's also the ball joints that connects shift shaft to shift lever. Sounds like there's too much slack in shift action somewhere.
  8. I believe they come out fairly easy. Remove wooden block and drive gear pin and "screw" out the front. If you're replacing them, use the hot wrench to remove. Just don't burn the machine off!
  9. I think I'd be replacing that shift fork.
  10. I'm betting the spider that holds the pistons in the rotating group in the header drive motor has worn through at the center ball. When this happens all spring pressure is lost to hold slippers against end plate. Can test this but should have a flow rate to do so. Not difficult to remove motor and inspected. If you're not familiar with hydraulic motors, take it to someone that is. Lots of pieces inside.
  11. Agree with KSUfarmdude, Hy-Cap. has them at a considerable discount compared to C-IH.
  12. Yes, the pto control valve is under the tank. Steel lines running from valve to pto. Lots of possibilities as to what's leaking, but it must not be on the oil feed side of the valve since it only leaks with pto engaged.
  13. There's a bigger washer that goes on the shaft first, then slide the lever on the shaft. Tighten the retaining bolt and there should not be any back and forth movement in the shaft.
  14. I've seen kits to eliminate the super charge line. What was/is the reason to eliminate the super charge line? What problem occurs? My 1486 has weak and slow hydraulics from the remotes, is that by chance a reason for removing?
  15. I'm assuming you have the pump removed at this point. Pop the dust seal off and you'll the see a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and then remove the thick brass washer/bushing. It can sometimes be a little challenging to get it out. Turn the pump upside down and shake it around, sometimes the bushing will slide out to where you can grab it. Then you can get to the seal with a pick. Install new parts in reverse order
  16. The block may be cracked. I had something similar on a 966.
  17. I'm wondering if the shaft that the Hi-Lo shift fork slides on didn't slide out. There's a snap ring that keeps this shaft from sliding into the differential housing. I've seen the snap ring break and then it slides back too far. Still have to pull the cover off.
  18. Your thoughts make sense, I have not switched the hoses but it's something I will try. The strange thing is this isn't something I just started doing, been running it like this for 7-8 years and always could get the pressure I needed by just adjusting flow in inside lever. I'm not convinced it's not a sprayer problem but it just doesn't seem like it is.
  19. Actually I run them both back all the time.
  20. I might clarify this a little more, when I move the flow lever for the inside lever, it does change the flow, up and down. But it's like I'm not getting max flow out of the remote until I also increase flow on the middle lever.
  21. I wouldn't be insulted, because if that was the problem because that's easy to fix. Unfortunately that was the first thing I checked and I found them to be hooked up correctly. Thanks for the suggestion.
  22. I have a pull type sprayer hooked to this tractor. I run the product pump with the inside lever and the boom control valve with the middle lever. Yes, I know the outside lever is the motor/priority valve....I don't want to get into that. Been running this combination for 7-8 years. Today I noticed something unusual, I didn't have enough pump pressure so I increased the flow on #1. With flow on max I still didn't have the pressure I needed. For some reason I increased the flow on #2 remote(the one that controls the booms), When I did this, I noticed the pump pressure increased. I messed with it more and verified that changing the flow on #2 remote also affects the flow on #1. I can get the pump pressure I need, just have to increase flow on #2. I'm trying figure out what causing this. I've had several of these tractors loose the little check ball that's in the #3 valve, the ball that allows it to be priority. I can't remember the symptoms of the hydraulic system when that happened. Anybody know how they would act?
  23. No sh%#, guess I need to just shutup.
  24. Just trying to make it easier to locate for someone that may not know the system is all.
  25. If you don't find anything obvious and you want to take the time to do it, you can manually engage the ho and low clutches one at a time. Just need power and ground source. Remove both sentry pressure safety switches and install gauge in each port so you can monitor clutch pressures.
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