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Everything posted by TB5288

  1. I've had the shoulder bolt(#2) come loose. That allows too much clearance between #1 and #3. The detent ball pops out. I just had to find ball laying in the bottom and tighten the bolt.
  2. I changed the lights like you. I lifted the front and put a block in and did what I had to do. I wasn't sure if the rear even moved, maybe it did.
  3. No need to remove cab top to replace lights. Maybe you knew that, just sayin
  4. Well anything is junk if it's wore out. If it's in good condition it's a good baler. My experience was with a 565a Hesston.
  5. They are the same baler as the Hesston 565. Hesston called their automatic version a 565a. Not sure how Case/IH designated the auto version. I don't know if the 8460 is auto or manual. They were a very good baler for the time. One of the biggest downfalls is you can't see the pickup from the cab seat. If starting roll flaps were in good condition, starting a bale wasn't a problem. Twine arm can be a little finicky to adjust(on the auto baler). Value would depend greatly on condition baler. Number of bales on it, belt condition, sprockets, etc
  6. Yes but pushing clutch in to start out and stopping is enough. Never liked auto adjuster, if the ring is stuck on a manual adjuster, the auto adjuster was stuck long before that. That was my experience anyway.
  7. Sounds like it's running out of fuel. Have you changed fuel filters. I don't think transmission gear has anything to do with problem, I think it's the extra load on engine in 18th.
  8. TB5288


    So if it's an elog cab, can I not stay on paper?
  9. TB5288


    So maybe I'm not understanding it correctly, but why does it matter if it's pre-elog or post-elog? What would that matter?
  10. TB5288


    Yes, I'm aware of the rust. It just seems like there's a lot more for sale in those areas. How do you know if it's pre elog?
  11. Anybody know of a good used 9900ix pre-emmision for sale? I'm in Kansas, seems like the possibilities I can find are in Canada or East coast. Pre-emmision seems to be the hot point. Understandably so. .
  12. Most of the trucks we had come in that would have had the 360 in it, now had the T444E in it.
  13. You can take the compressor housing off the turbo also. Just remove the 6 bolt and it slides off
  14. I think he's saying he's not able to rotate the compressor housing because it's hitting the intake pipe. Plus the turbo isn't fully mounted, so it's only going to get closer when he does. I agree with what you're saying. This one does look a little odd to me.
  15. Are the rears set wide to complete to job or do you run them like that?
  16. You can remove the spools from the valve bodies from the back and replace seals for the spools. If it's leaking between the valve bodies then you have to remove the valve bodies. There's also the fittings on top of the valves where the pipes attach that run to the couplers. O-rings to replace here. Lots of possibilities. Probably best to replace all o-rings.
  17. If the tractor has a loader on it do not install taper mate. I have broke 10-12 over the years on 2 tractors, and that's not an exaggeration. Maybe I'm too rough on them but I spent big $'s going back to OEM and haven't broken on since. Got taper mate from Abilene, Hy-Cap, All-State, they are all the same.
  18. Set screws may have come lose on shift fork, have had that happen. But there's also the ball joints that connects shift shaft to shift lever. Sounds like there's too much slack in shift action somewhere.
  19. I believe they come out fairly easy. Remove wooden block and drive gear pin and "screw" out the front. If you're replacing them, use the hot wrench to remove. Just don't burn the machine off!
  20. I think I'd be replacing that shift fork.
  21. I'm betting the spider that holds the pistons in the rotating group in the header drive motor has worn through at the center ball. When this happens all spring pressure is lost to hold slippers against end plate. Can test this but should have a flow rate to do so. Not difficult to remove motor and inspected. If you're not familiar with hydraulic motors, take it to someone that is. Lots of pieces inside.
  22. Agree with KSUfarmdude, Hy-Cap. has them at a considerable discount compared to C-IH.
  23. Yes, the pto control valve is under the tank. Steel lines running from valve to pto. Lots of possibilities as to what's leaking, but it must not be on the oil feed side of the valve since it only leaks with pto engaged.
  24. There's a bigger washer that goes on the shaft first, then slide the lever on the shaft. Tighten the retaining bolt and there should not be any back and forth movement in the shaft.
  25. I've seen kits to eliminate the super charge line. What was/is the reason to eliminate the super charge line? What problem occurs? My 1486 has weak and slow hydraulics from the remotes, is that by chance a reason for removing?
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