midnightman

The one that always runs, and never breaks down or requires maintenance.

Just had the truck in from my local supplier last week. Yep, higher than Covid times. Tariffs are not helping on either side of the border. Usually stock 6” x 3/4” weld on cutting edge as I get it in a 20’ length. I think the last time was around $26/ft CAD. I sold my last piece and need to restock, but my supplier is probably not bringing any up across the border due to the cost.

All of the above. Have driven everything from 3 on the tree to 13spd. Started driving on my own on the farm when I was probably 9. My training was “I’m taking the tractor home. You can take the truck. Don’t wreck anything”

My first portable was an early 70’s SA-200. It’s true that they are probably the smoothest machine someone could ever use. Sound cool too with about a 8” straight pipe right off the manifold of the 4 cylinder continental. Working for 8 or 10 hours, the cool factor was diminished if you didn’t have at least 25’ of cable between you and the machine.

I haven’t burnt a 7014 in years although there’s a box on the shelf here. If it’s not wire feed, I stick with 7018 with some 6010 for either a root pass or dirty rusty stuff. 6013 for thin sheet metal. Have a box of 7018AC for if I’m using someone else’s buzz box.

Progress over about 45minutes yesterday while I was having my morning coffees.

Look up the engine on Messicks. Lists most hardware dimensions.

I was thinking about doing that on my loader mainly for when I’m using pallet forks

When I was in college in Calgary, I worked for a family near High River. He had two of the rebranded Kirovet articulated 4wds. Here in southern Manitoba there were lots of the smaller Belarus loader tractors used as chore tractors

I have seen a couple old forklift masts that have been adapted to the 3pth on the tractor. While not as good as a real forklift, good for occasional use, easily removed from the tractor, and puts th weight on the big tires and axles.

First thing I do now to change one is grab the torch and blast the cross and cups out. Spent enough hours years ago beating on them, c clamping or in the vice. As vtfireman says, a couple good smacks with a big hammer will align everything and make sure they are moving freely.

Somebody that shouldn’t have thrown the instructions away when they opened the box

Hoping everything goes well and it makes life better for the future.

I’ve done it a few times. If the elongation #s are high enough to let the weld stretch as it’s cooling without cracking, it can work. Definitely not the 1st choice, but sometimes will work. Definitely better than trying with a mig or 6010

I thought that I heard that it’s Super Intelligence now?