Newer F150 drive shaft

[Cattech]

I bought a 2021 F150 last fall, 3.5 EcoBoost, crew cab 6.5 box. So far it has been a pleasant truck. Maybe not as efficient as I hoped, but that probably has more to do with my right foot than the truck.

Anyway, I noticed a slight vibration that comes on at 67 mph. It settles down some over 75. The frequency is appropriate to the speed the driveshaft is spinning and there's no change if I manually change gears. There's little to no change if I put it in 4wd, a little wiggle of the steering wheel doesn't affect it either so I don't think it is in a front bearing hub. I had it jacked up and I couldn't feel anything in the pinion or trans case output front or rear. The hanger bearing didn't seems to have any problems either.

So Ford, in their infinite wisdom, used a shaft with CV joints in all but one flex point, and topped that off by deeming the shaft non-serviceable. If it were problem free, I could live with that.

I figure though, the shaft is as good a place to start as anything, and that brings me to my question. I found the OEM driveshaft online through a relatively close dealership for $520. I also see Dorman sells a shaft with replaceable U-joints. It would cost me $150 more to get this one. I like the idea that it is serviceable, but that could be detrimental too.

Anyone have experience with these shafts? Or a similar vibration issue?

[Cattech]

One other thing. The driver seat cushion is showing that I'm not the first heavier driver to own this truck. Has anyone found a more durable replacement foam for 21 and newer? I see several for up to 2020, none for newer but OEM.

[stronger800]

I’ve owned three ‘15-24 150’s like that, sister has two, buddy on number 4, oldest one was 140k, but we’ve never replaced an u joint or shaft.  I did put a unit hub bearing in one at 90k, but it didn’t vibrate. I noticed a slight jiggle during a tire rotation.  I’ll assume you already tried rotating the tires diagonally to rule those out?

[stronger800]

I’ve had non serviceable i joints start to lock up on other vehicles, and the vibration was pretty intense, at certain speeds.  More so than a tire would do. Maybe you’re seeing that and that’s what you’re saying 

[Cattech]

I should have added that I'm at 56k miles, bought it at 50k. 

I have not rotated tires, they were brand new at purchase. I won't rule it out, and intend to get the truck aligned, tires rotated. That said, the frequency of said vibration is way off from what I would expect out of a tire problem and is strong enough I would expect a visual chop in the tread if they were the culprit. 

[stronger800]

New tires can be junk these days too though.  I’d start there.

on at 65 and off at 75 sounds like a tire to me.  I’d think a shaft issue would be worse over a wider range

[Wes806]

If you think it might be the front driveshaft. Before you spend the money on a new one pull the front driveshaft off and drive to see if it does it then.    I have had them go bad on me and sat along the road and pulled it.  Hope that helps.

[stronger800]

His front shaft isn’t turning when he’s in 2wd though, so that should rule out that shaft

[iowaboy1965]

30 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

I’d think a shaft issue would be worse over a wider range

 Not necessarily 

[iowaboy1965]

The all wheel drive cars are similar. Drive shaft for the 2010 sho was $800 more less when I checked. Never needed one and it's gone now. It had 150000 plus with original rear shaft, as far as I know. Bought it with 70,000 on the clock.  I'd seriously consider one with serviceable ujpints if you end up replacing it. 

[cobfly]

1 hour ago, Cattech said:

I bought a 2021 F150 last fall, 3.5 EcoBoost, crew cab 6.5 box. So far it has been a pleasant truck. Maybe not as efficient as I hoped, but that probably has more to do with my right foot than the truck.

Anyway, I noticed a slight vibration that comes on at 67 mph. It settles down some over 75. The frequency is appropriate to the speed the driveshaft is spinning and there's no change if I manually change gears. There's little to no change if I put it in 4wd, a little wiggle of the steering wheel doesn't affect it either so I don't think it is in a front bearing hub. I had it jacked up and I couldn't feel anything in the pinion or trans case output front or rear. The hanger bearing didn't seems to have any problems either.

So Ford, in their infinite wisdom, used a shaft with CV joints in all but one flex point, and topped that off by deeming the shaft non-serviceable. If it were problem free, I could live with that.

I figure though, the shaft is as good a place to start as anything, and that brings me to my question. I found the OEM driveshaft online through a relatively close dealership for $520. I also see Dorman sells a shaft with replaceable U-joints. It would cost me $150 more to get this one. I like the idea that it is serviceable, but that could be detrimental too.

Anyone have experience with these shafts? Or a similar vibration issue?

Hanger bearing? Is that a two piece on a short box?

[Cattech]

15 minutes ago, cobfly said:

Hanger bearing? Is that a two piece on a short box?

Certainly is, the 6.5 box on a 4 door cab is the "long" box and the truck has about the longest F150 wheelbase at 157"

[Cattech]

It definitely feels long when I go to park the thing.

[cobfly]

16 minutes ago, Cattech said:

It definitely feels long when I go to park the thing.

I'll be danged. Does the vibration change under load or compression at the vibration speed slot? You probably know radials rotate front to back. Worth a try.

[Cattech]

A couple weeks ago, I pulled my 2 place snowmobile trailer a couple hundred miles, this was the deciding factor I need to do something with the problem at it was much worse. Now, I feel it all the time, but that's more because I'm more aware. Still though, 67 mph it's like flipping a switch, then it fades above that. Slowing down, I might feel it down to 65, then gone. I don't have any tire noise at freeway speed either. That's why I'm thinking drive shaft, it has to hit the certain resonance or frequency that something else is vibrating at. Different gears, same vib speed too.

[int 504]

Checking tire balance would be first for me then driveshaft. I've had them lose balance weights in the past and the prize winner undercoating on one side. Hit any bad potholes lately?

[cobfly]

Tires are easy to rule out or in. I've had rigs that were very finicky about tire balance. Never a Chevy though.😁

[stronger800]

My local tires guys told me to stop going front to back on “modern” tires close to 20 years ago.  I’ve been going only diagonal every 5k ever since. 
Owners manuals say diagonal, across then forward…all over the place 

[vtfireman85]

https://www.theseatshop.com/?tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=17593576065&tw_kwdid=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20946784734&gbraid=0AAAAAD4R2a7FNkBWZtjmBPbbe6bLetljz&gclid=CjwKCAjw1N7NBhAoEiwAcPchp-rb2vMOf6NRpEmV48WeEH0AjxBE4Mrtk-0id9EfhxGc4BqBIVThvxoCYsQQAvD_BwE
I bought from these folks, perfect fit and much stiffer than the factory foam. 

[lotsaIHCs]

It wouldn't hurt to have your tires "road force" balanced. It can identify tires with "heavy" or "stiff" spots. Tires usually have vibration frequency about 1/3 of driveline vibration, depending on gear ratio. But I've seen tires with more than one heavy spot making it feel like a driveline imbalance. If the road force balancing doesn't reveal anything, you can take your driveshaft to a driveline shop and have it checked for anything that would cause a vibration.

[Rainman]

Have you tried 4x4A  ,if it has  (A) in your transfer case?  

 

[Cattech]

Does not have the 4 auto, just 2, 4, 4L. As I mentioned, I have tried both 2 & 4 high, no noticeable change.

Another description of the vibration - it is at the frequency that a hummingbird flaps its wings and about the same tone you would hear if one is buzzing around your head. Roughly 3-4 times wheel speed.

No doubt I am going to get the truck aligned and rotate the tires, it has a very slight pull to the left anyhow. I would be pleasantly pleased if this fixes it.

I have talked to several people with newer F150s that took their trucks back to the dealer xx number times, replaced tires, wheel bearings & one guy even rebuilt a rear diff for vibration complaints and all ended up needing a rear drive shaft. The next shorter wheelbase (145"?) trucks had a recall on their driveshafts as well. I believe all these problems were because of the sealed CV joints in place of u-joints.

I mainly was wondering whether anyone had purchased the Dorman shaft and considered it an upgrade - replaceable u-joints and a serviceable hanger bearing sound good, but if I am then replacing those items all the time, it's not really a gain.

 

VT, thanks for the link to the seat place, unfortunately, I don't see that they have anything for '21 and newer F150s on their website, is it something I could probably call them about?

[Gearclash]

There is a hanger bearing on the rear driveshaft?  Dodge guys have produced reams of verbiage about problems stemming from the hanger bearing/two piece driveshaft on the Dodge pickups so equipped.  Seems like the consensus on those is to pitch the OEM driveshaft in favor of a one piece version. 

[New Englander]

If tire balance and rotation don't fix it maybe it's time to pull the shaft and get a feel for the joints. As I write and read what I've written I want to be clear that I mean your truck's drive shaft. Anyway, perhaps then you can further evaluate it, perhaps get the wheels off the ground and spin the pinion, maybe change the diff oil and look for shiny stuff. Just thinkin'. 

[JaredT]

I have an extended length Fprd Transit van.  I have two or three carrier bearings, cant remember honestly. I had to replace the driveshaft at 140k or 150k because of carrier bearings, U joints were good. It came as a complete assembly, ranged from $1200 at the local dealer to $700 about 2 hours away, which i happened to be going past anyway.  Took care of my vibration issues, good luck.