Endless point burning

[vtfireman85]

42 minutes ago, VacDaddyt said:

the points are on the neg side of the coil right?

Right 

[560Dennis]

I wonder ,which side of the points is the welded point build up on movement arm or the fixed contact ?

[acem]

As I understand it.  Your points are holding up ok with use but are burning when you store the tractor over the winter???

First I would disconnect the batteries when I put it up for storage.

I would check to see if they are actually burning or are just rusting.

Do you have alot of condensation in your storage are?

[cedar farm]

5 hours ago, VacDaddyt said:

the points are on the neg side of the coil right?

Unless a tractor is still on positive ground

[560Dennis]

This generation or  alternator .

voltage = what ?

voltage spikes  possible ?

[560Dennis]

According to Motor if the micro farad capacity of the condenser is to low the points burn .

If the burn point build up is on the plus positive side the mircofarad capacity is to low 

if the burn build up is on the negative minus side the microfarad capacity is to high .

[Chester5732]

I always use Echlin points from Napa. They also have a fiber rub block instead of plastic. Farming 80 acres with mine I still get 6-7 years of service.  Stay away from the cheap farm store junk.  Some people install electronic ignition. I refuse. If that module goes out you are several days without a tractor that can be setting who know where. 

[Jeff-C-IL]

If your electrical system is not shutting completely off, the points can "bond" while sitting.   This can happen on some older tractors where a generator has been replaced with an alternator - not sure why, just know it happens.    It the points "spark" when the key is off (take off cap, use small tool to wiggle points apart) then that is the problem.

 

[Binderoid]

On 10/10/2024 at 10:00 AM, Sparky said:

Okay....

You would not believe how many people that "absolutely *know*" that they installed their points correctly have dropped off a tractor at my shop because it won't start.

More than a couple of times I've checked the gap on the points and they were set at .20 instead of .020.....I don't know how they can expect that to work, but whatever.

Then again, I get a lot of people in here that simply cannot make a set of point last a season. Those are simply not adjusted well.

 

Travis

For real ? .20 is nearly 1/4 inch. I didn't know that the lobes were even that tall. 

[vtfireman85]

13 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

If your electrical system is not shutting completely off, the points can "bond" while sitting.   This can happen on some older tractors where a generator has been replaced with an alternator - not sure why, just know it happens.    It the points "spark" when the key is off (take off cap, use small tool to wiggle points apart) then that is the problem.

 

 

On 10/10/2024 at 9:40 PM, acem said:

As I understand it.  Your points are holding up ok with use but are burning when you store the tractor over the winter???

First I would disconnect the batteries when I put it up for storage.

I would check to see if they are actually burning or are just rusting.

Do you have alot of condensation in your storage are?

I checked the switch and i also checked with a test light and DMM at the distributor, its not staying energized, also the battery is holding a charge for a year between uses, through the winter even. I have a feeling they are burning with use, it sees maybe 5-8 hours a year these days and all in October. I imagine a bit of corrosion builds up on the burned points and come time to start it it won’t run without cleaning them. 

[HydroTek]

The metal that the points are made from is junk , compared to the old stuff

What I have seen is the points will turn black and then oxidize when not used
if they are cleaned you can still get some use , but will oxidize again after sitting

I have had good luck with Echlin points 
or change to the Pertronix that I mentioned earlier

[superih]

The key to running  Pertronix is the distrubutor must be well grounded. I feel the best part about them is the starting, got two farm tractors running them daily, they barely roll over and are running, never touch the choke anymore. 

[Diesel Doctor]

On 10/10/2024 at 2:52 PM, VacDaddyt said:

the points are on the neg side of the coil right?

Yes, if battery is negative ground.

[Gearclash]

1 hour ago, superih said:

The key to running  Pertronix is the distrubutor must be well grounded. I feel the best part about them is the starting, got two farm tractors running them daily, they barely roll over and are running, never touch the choke anymore. 

We switched two engines to Pertronix sparkers and not only did they start better but the 6 cylinder we did accelerated better also.  It was in a wheel loader so it was constantly accelerating and the Pertronix unit got rid of the stumble that it tended to have at mid range engine speeds. 

One of said engines has 14,500 hours on it, probably had a Pertronix system in it since it had 10,000 hours on it.  Switched because the dizzy bushings were getting a bit loose plus we were tired of messing with points. 

@vtfireman85 You need one of two things, either get a resistor in there so the points aren’t operating on 12V  or switch to a Pertronix Ignitor I.  The Pertronix units are not perfect but they get away from some of the problems that points and condensers have. 

 

[acem]

I have good luck out of Napa echlin points if I get them set right. Some are easy to set and others are harder. I always check and make final adjustments using a dwell meter.

Lube the cam but make sure the points are dry.

[snoshoe]

3 facts:

1. A 12volt coil with 3.4 ohm primary resistance will start and run like it should. If it doesn't something else is the issue and a resistor is not going to fix it.

2. A 6 volt coil with resistor and no bypass is apt to be just like the 2N. Everything works fine until it needs just a little extra. At which point it just quits.

3. A 6 volt coil with resistor and a resistor bypass will spark down to around 4.5 volts. At that point the 12 volt battery isn't cranking anyway.

[vtfireman85]

She was running pretty nicely today. I installed a “ballast required” 12V coil and welded a mounting bolt on top of the bracket. It’s either a hot start resistor, though it doesn’t say so or something, because it whipped over and fired after the first or second revolution all day.. I wish I could do that. I need 2 cups of coffee before my glow plugs even think about working. 

[Chester5732]

7 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

I wish I could do that. I need 2 cups of coffee before my glow plugs even think about working. 

I resemble that remark!!