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Everything posted by Jeff-C-IL

  1. Tight - I'm most familiar with the 400 series motors. You made sure the cover was not spread, that the little flanges on the inside of the gasket surface fit down into the head so the gasket is captured correctly. (A spread cover from overtightening the flanges will sit on top of the head, and leave a gap.) Then use the bolts with the washer/rubber seal to snug the cover down (I always drew them down equally). I'm sure there is a spec....I just tightened them so there was a little tension/compression of the cover. (ya know, put about THIS much moxie on the 3/8" ratchet). If I had to guess, about 15flb?
  2. That one is too obvious...it requires a blacksmith to work on the black hole machinery....😄 I simply use grease on the valve cover gasket. Permatex if you never need to remove it again (ya right). I'm sure there are better options. Don't overtighten the top bolts and warp the cover. I'm really impressed by the resto on the threading machine....NICE!
  3. I hate to be a negative kinda guy..... and I REALLY like your work on that pin.....But Did you consider that the pin was worn, but the holes in the pedal were not (or minimal)? You used a lawnmower blade to make a new pin....will the harder pin now wear the pedal out instead? (I realize you may not be suing this daily!) Pins/bolts are easy to change - holes in parts less so. I always use the softest bolt I think will not break, for that exact reason. I have a disk ripper that does a beautiful job, but is almost ready to be retired for scrap, because the sheer bolt holes are worn and egged from previous owner using too hard of sheer bolts. Everything is welded to the main frame, there is no clearance to drill out or weld up the holes.
  4. Does not look like it has the Backhoe on, did you get that separate or is it missing?
  5. Had a 1486 did the same thing - would drain the battery in2-3 days.. Was internal. Tested the plug, 12V on Battery pin, the keyed 12V turned on & off. Sent it off again...that time it was fixed.
  6. Here is about the only picture I took of the cab interior showing the blower on my early 4386. I don't think your 4366 above is much different. A pice that covered the main blower area. Another with stitched edges that covered the drop lid. You had to cut out for the radio, etc. which I did a really bad job of. IIRC, the actual roof had several sublayers, and then one that covered the top frame and the sublayers. There were also small pieces that covered the fuse panel under the dash, the firewall, etc, even weird little pieces to cover the sides of the "steering motor box" under the dash. If you have any specific questions about any area, please ask, it may jog my memory
  7. I installed a Fehr cab kit on the 4386. Helped significantly. I would think if you wanted to go the second mile and add dynamat under the floormat, that would be a big improvement. I know mine it was the tranny gear squeal....open the rear cab window and about blow your eardrums. I ended up with a pair of good earmuffs hung on the Hi/Lo lever, very rarely ran without them on. Now I use them on the X-Mark.
  8. Not sure exactly how a straight pipe might harm an engine? Should just lower temps slightly from free flow exhaust. Wil harm your ears though unless you a diligent with those headsets. Actually I did read a VERY interesting book about sizing exhausts once (back in the 460/454 days) - where a properly sized exhaust results in a moving column of air that almost self-scavenges the engine. While too small of pipe results in high back-pressure, too large a pipe actually results in a column that just starts/stops - also raising back pressure! Made a lot of sense, as it follows basic principles of fluid motion. But this was on the topic of large gas engines and longer exhausts (like a RV). I doubt if its very applicable to 3' long straight pipes out the top! It does make me laugh whenever I see one of those teenagers with the 6" exhaust pipe on their jacked up PU though!
  9. Yes I did.....a 1970 truck w/automatic? Thought never crossed my mind! I assume you would have to rev it up in neutral until the Torque Converter starts spinning the internals.
  10. These units are a simple slide gear. They are either meshing or not, the lever moves the gear into mesh. If you carefully push in the pedal while the engine is running, in neutral, clutch released, you should feel the gears start hitting (ie grinding!) If you feel the gears, the output shaft should spin with the lever pushed, clutch released. If you don't feel any gears, The only thing I could think of is the lever is not working to move the gear---not sure I've ever heard of that happening--these are pretty simple. If the shaft is spinning and you don't get any movement in the bed hoist, then you need to look at the lift/release knob/lever/whatever it is for the hydraulic dump valve.
  11. You can take the motors completely apart, soak the bronze bushings in oil overnight - and it may last another month. Never been able to really "restore" one if the bushings are dry and they get bound up. Hope its just wiring.
  12. There you go....my dad always set the 3pt off to one side when cutting for the same reason. I would think 1/4" x 2" would be fine. You might want to to make the bar a T by welding a 1/4 x 1/2" (or so) along the side in the middle (prevent bending). Make sure that the front of the bar is on the same pin as the front of the 3pt arm as shown above, so it does not bind as you raise & lower the 3pt. If you wanted to make the bar somewhat adjustable, you could use 2 "halves" that lay over each other, with 2-3 bolts thru slotted holes. Would not need to weld the T in for strength then.
  13. I just happen to know.....that the person who setup Porch's website moved on to another job, and Janet & Eric simply haven't had an opportunity recently to update the site. All you good folks are keeping them REALLY busy building tractor harnesses! I'll mention this to Eric next time I see him.
  14. Porch's often do "non-listed" harnesses. I was in the shop the other day and they had a big box labeled 4166 - clear full of a old harness set somebody wanted duplicated.
  15. YOu are not getting 12V to the dash (I assume you mean the tach, not the gauges, etc)....it has both battery and keyed 12V. Possibly your cab solenoid is not working (check inside the column with a DVM on the posts) . Or your tach could be dead. Only way to tell is to get a schematic and test power & ground in the tach plug. Recal is not a thing on these.
  16. I've seen quite a few PTO units that turn with no load....sometimes the oil is thick/cold enough to provide enough friction to make the clutches turn a bit. While I do NOT recommend trying this, we had a 1066 that the PTO spun with cold oil - but you could take your hand and stop it!
  17. Is it turning under load, or w/o any PTO shaft hooked up? If its just sitting there turning, no load, I'd be tempted to hook it up to a mower or some such (shut off the motor) then start the tractor and see if its just a bit sticky. Flip the lever on and off a few times to see if it will "break free". Just be careful, make sure nobody is around the machine when testing. If its really stuck on, yes, will need to be pulled and rebuilt.
  18. What Dirt meant is you are actually overstressing the tractor at 2.5 mph. Rule of thumb is you want to be able to move 4-5mph with any implement, slower than that and the torque loads on the shafts/axles/etc are probably exceeding design spec. As shaft rotation speed drops, torque across the shaft rises (for the same load). Slower is not necessarily less stressful on machinery. Doesn't mean you can't do it, just pay attention to your tractor - is it struggling at that speed, or gliding along easy?
  19. We have heavy black dirt, used to pull a 11 shank glencoe with a 1486. set about 10" deep. Our neighbor would borrow it, put another depth stop or two on the lift cylinders, and pull it with his 986 about 8" deep. Diff lock is for when you are having one wheel spin out - not gonna help you in general pull. All you gotta do is adjust the stops on the cylinder (or some other means if the machine has it) to set your depth as desired. As long as its working the ground OK.
  20. I agree, for this job, outside, using the pallet & forks....definitely the way to go! I feel you on the rain, man! Here in IL, it gets warm for one day....then cold and rain again. Had 1" of snow Monday, supposed to be 80 Sunday, the next day 50 and rain.... Normally I have all the floor heat turned off by now....this year...the cats are hogging the "electric grow pads" my wife uses under the garden starts....
  21. I have to ask - how did you "lock down" the 3pt arms so they did not just raise up?? Are you depending on the oil pressure in the cylinders? Are those actually2 way rather than 1 way? Gotta say that loader tractor looks familiar....spent a LOT of time on the 1066 w/ Westendorf loader feeding cows...... Dad's was a WL 44 w/ self leveling - slightly taller, but close enough.
  22. I think here's how I would tackle that..... Either have it sitting on concrete, or a couple slabs of plywood. Remove the other side tires, they are gonna have to come off anyway. Using the 3pt and chains just like you moved it, lower the entire rear end until the frame/tranny drawbar is on the ground. Then pick it back up a little. Block the tranny up just enough that when sitting the entire rear frame all the way down on the drawbar, the tranny sits on the blocks. Remove the driveshaft and bolts holding the rear end to the frame. Using the 3pt and chains just like you moved it, raise the frame up as high as you can and block it. Rechain and repeat until you run out of lift. At this point, you may need to use some jacks to raise the rear frame farther----but get it just high enough to get the axle housing out. Block REALLY well. If you have a forklift of some such, block and chain the rear axle housing to the forks, and unbolt & remove. Getting it lined back up may be tricky, but think ahead and figure out how to reinstall without damage. I would not pull the rear housing out from under unless you really need to, or want to work on the internals. Thats my remote suggestion - you solution may vary based on ACTUAL hands on!
  23. I find that settling problems are more likely the valve/check valves rather than the cylinders. But need to check.
  24. Both of those relays are just standard automotive 20/40A SPDT mini relays available in any auto parts store. My guess is somebody swapped one out at one point. I suggest running down to NAPA, grabbing a couple, and simply replacing all 3. Cheap troubleshooting.
  25. And that works fine with small (10-40kw) PTO generators where the HP & torque are well below the driveline limits.
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