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Everything posted by Jeff-C-IL

  1. I see two possibilities here - 1: the wiring from the header plug is rubbed bare and shorting together on the feeder or over the rotor cage, making the AHC system think it needs to raise 2: your Raise valve is sticking on (disassemble valve and sand plunger with fine grit sandpaper to remove burrs and "lip" worn in.) It frankly sounds more like the former - that the AHC is turning on and trying to raise the head until you "turn it off" by pushing the raise button. I suggest backprobing the "B" wire at the round 3 pin header plug - no head it should be 0V, head on it should be 3-5V depending on the head position (down 3, up 5).
  2. THese were on all "large frame" from the '06 thru the '86 series with OC hydraulics, not sure what they did after they went to PFC. We replaced the one in the 1066 with the '86 series one for enough power for the big Westendorf loader. Then years later later I put the original 1066 one in the 806 to lift the corn planter full of seed and 28%. The original 806 one may still be laying on a shelf somewhere....
  3. That looks like the remote pressure regulator off any 06-86 series, the p/n will tell you the working pressure. Someone likely replaced it with a higher pressure unit.
  4. Even if you pull the plug, the cavity will have lots of oil in it. I used a old "sandblaster" handgun, stuck the suction tube into the oil pool and blew the oil doewn the drain to clean mine out. Its not hard, but tricky as you have to take the guts out of the unit to get down to the levers to remove to replace the orings. Take lots of pictures during disassembly!
  5. So I assume that the pump only goes back into the gear one way then? Slip it back into the gear and line the marks up on the flange and it should be in time?
  6. This truck is an auto, so no pull start! Can anyone give me a quick rundown on how to pull the pump properly on these - ie how to time it so it goes back on right? Where are the marks, etc? (I've learned not to pull a pump until AFTER you set it to the correct timing mark....makes reinstallation SOOO much easier.) Inj - Whats it typically cost to have one of these pumps checked out and cleaned up? Low enough miles the pump should be in pretty good shape otherwise. Also, how about the injectors, are they susceptible to gumming up & sticking as well, or is it likely just the pump? My buddy actually has a whole different pump & injectors set he got off a running truck that was sent to the wrecker yard, but they would have way more miles on them. Almost prefer to get this one rebuilt. Still doesn't explain why it won't pop on ether.....but....sure hope its the pump, not something deeper.
  7. All good suggestions. The old tank and lift pump are disconnected, and an electric pump is being used. A solid stream of fuel comes out the Schrader valve. Next time my friend is here (truck is parked at my farm), we will try some of these - taking the pump top off and checking for solenoid operation is a good idea.
  8. To be clear, this is pre-powerstroke, the mechanical pump. When you crack the injector lines, the fuel does bubble out as you crank the engine - it just seems a little weak bubbling as the fuel slowly seeps out over the fitting. I'm used to the DT400 engines when you crack a line fuel squirts out like a fountain!
  9. Friend of mine bought a '93 Ford Superduty with only 65K miles on it.....no rust, interior/seat looks like new, fancy handicapped "doctors office" built into the box on the back, so I believe the mileage. The truck has been sitting for 8-10 years, and won't start at all. I was helping him work on it last night and we have done the following: New batteries. Electric pump from a jerry can with new fuel, new filter, and fuel bled all the way thru to the injector pump. The shutoff solenoid in the pump clicks when you take the wire on/off. Both connections at the pump have 10-12V on them. All injector lines were cracked, some fuel comes out, every line got wet. (may not be enough - it did not "blast" out as the engine cranked?) Checked glow plugs, 7 of 8 are good. 10-11V at the plugs when the controller is on. The controller comes on for 5-8 seconds, then cycles. I also directly jumped the relay for 20 seconds before a crank cycle. No change. We felt it was cranking too slow, so replaced the starter. It turns over pretty good now. Adding a jump pack and a jumper to another vehicle did not change crank speed or voltages at all. No smoke at all comes out the exhaust. We tried a tiny shot of ether - engine backfired into the intake and ether burned off inside the intake. Pretty sure it just ignited on a glow plug. We unplugged the glow plugs entirely and tried more ether - nothing whatsoever, engine does not even try to pop. The engine cranking sounds pretty normal, has a bit of a "thump" as it cranks with the air cleaner off, sounds a bit like a sticky valve thumping into the intake, but after listening to some you-tube videos some other trucks sounded that way too. Any ideas what to try next? Pull the pump & injectors? Timing chain? How do you check timing on these engines anyway? I never worked on one before. Compression?
  10. I have a JD 920 header. I had to have the auger pulled to repair damage. The guy who rebuilt it, has been rebuilding the crossaugers for years. I inquired about installing full fingers while I had the auger out. He was able to do so, but told me "To be fair, the full finger really does not do all that much - you may think you wasted your money". Got the auger back, new full fingers, and he had squared up the auger to get rid of the rounded off front edge. 10 minutes in the field and I saw exactly what he meant. The full fingers just kinda came around and stuck out there but really did not grab much. The newly squared auger, on the other hand, just sucked beans in. As soon as the plants touched the auger, they caught and sucked in and across instead of sliding off and laying there. HUGE difference. Several years later, the auger is starting to lose that sharp front edge, and beans are bunching more again. So I'd suggest step 1, grab a angle grinder & square up your auger flighting. Then try the bolt on fingers.
  11. Sorry I can't help you about the holddown clips I will say I have always found it interesting, that many many tries to make different cutterbars---and some do work very well in certain crop/conditions---but it always seems like they come back to the old 3" section and guard for best overall performance. Just like Cyrus McCormick worked out on the first successful reaper (his cutterbar design was what made it work).
  12. I think the M/400 type drawbar is probably most useful for what you are wanting to do. The fixed drawbar shown is probably fine, although you could also get the swinging drawbar attachment shown in the picture, useful for pulling rakes off to one side! I will say I've never seen one of the fixed hitches with the #12-15 parts shown!
  13. Heh! gotta a whole bin full of clamp bolts with one end broken short.....
  14. WE used to plow with an 806D on a 5 bottom IH 510 plow. Heavy soils. At night, you could see the old 806 would turn the muffler cherry red, 1 foot flame out the stack. Pulled it slow and steady! One of my earliest and best memories of growing up is riding on that combo while mom plowed (dad was running the 400 on the 4 bottom)
  15. Yes, oring & teflon ring. The teflon squashes, so its one use only, IIRC. Make sure your pump is actually pumping - check the key in the pump drive gear, make sure the nut is tight. You may want to actually disassemble the pump and see how the plates look, and that they are not stuck. Replace the orings as noted. Good that your ports align, as that is a real PITA to fix. I was pretty sure we were gonna have to get a whole new rear end housing, then I finally was able to get it welded up & ground over (figured what did I have to loose at that point!) The only other thing I could think of was the case to top cover oring. I've never had problem with that, but you could pull your 3pt top plate off and see if the oil is spraying out of the Left side top, or running down from the right side like its supposed to. Finally, check your pressure regulator....a stuck open regulator = no pressure.
  16. As usual, beautiful shots! What fun.
  17. Any reason why you can't just gently bend/arc the end of the B arm over so it sits more in the center of the A arm? I would think a big crescent wrench or pipe and a good pull would fix this nicely. Or is that arm made out of brittle cast or something?
  18. The old JD B ran a 4 star tedder no problem for me....actually really good combo. You stopped the tractor, the tedder stopped. Made for a real even spread. FInding good used tires -- pardon me while I go laugh hysterically......
  19. I also agree that these are very simple, nearly unbreakable tractors.....BUT....make sure you know what you want to do with these tractors before deciding what to buy. If you want to pull a wagon in a parade, just sit and look at it, drive it around for fun, pull a hay rake, or even run an auger, then great choice! If you want/need a tractor with a loader, more than one very basic hydraulic function (if that), 3pt hitch for a blade, etc, then I would look for something in the x06 lineup. The H/M & 3/400 models simply did not have the best hydraulics or 3pt's There are some with aftermarket 3pt units, but don't buy one of these expecting to add one. We had a 400. Reliable as all get out...but simply use-limited compared to the 806 or 1066. Still nothing to compare to getting the old 400 out on the road, latching the throttle down PAST the adjustment quadrant....and throwing that big TA lever forward! 😁
  20. PTO implements are not always built to "exact" specs to match the code, and then 1000 vs 540 PTO drives have different specs. The 2 piece drawbar made it easy to pull the pin and slide the drawbar in or out a couple inches, rather than having to crawl under the tractor with wrenches. Thus making it easier to hook up to different PTO implements. I never really correlated the two, but I wonder if the 2 piece drawbar was standard (or recommended?) on factory dual PTO tractors, at least for a certain model range? Our 1066 had the dual PTO and 2 piece drawbar, the 1486 was factory single PTO of course, and had the 1 piece drawbar. On the other hand, the 806 was dual PTO but 1 piece drawbar.
  21. Sometimes 2 "identical" motors can be very different. I had (2) JD 7720 combines, an '81 & an '85, both with 466 engines. Both engines ran fine with minimal smoke, no oil usage, used very similar fuel/hour. The 1981 would walk all over the 1985 I bought to replace it. First thing I noticed was how much less HP the newer combine had. Torque was lower too, much easier to kill the machine. Dropped about 1mph combining with the same heads. I had the pump checked out- it was fine. When there is no PTO to connect a dyno to, pretty hard to tell your "real" HP. Somebody may have given the pump screw a twist on my '81 before I got it....may be same for your I-282.
  22. Ah yes, thats the big one I forgot - dragging the corn picker or chopper and wagon thru the mud (you couldn't have the dual on).
  23. From a 1688, but valve stack is similar. #7 is the master/relief.
  24. Come to C-IL. Go to a farm auction. Buy the 720 5 bottom for $200. Cut it down to a 3 or 4 bottom. Just makes me sick what good 710/720 plows that are barely used go for out here....nobody plows, so nobody wants them....scrapper buys most. I've seen many plows go for $200 or less....even a few "no bids".
  25. It all depends on your ground. Heavy black/dry land farming, adding a 4x4 to a 1206 had no significant value, as the 2wd with duals could transfer all that HP to the ground just fine. Get into sandy soil, or being trying to spread manure in the winter on sloppy ground, or have a really wet field, or even some really loose loamy soils, and the 4x4 gave you enough extra traction to matter. Or, of course, the loader tractor in the feedlot (although the turning radius was terrible)
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