lotsaIHCs Posted March 16 Posted March 16 When you put your shear bolts in your PTO shaft, do you use washers of any kind or just the bolt and double nut? I've done it either way. I've used a flat washer under the head, then a lock washer under the nut and a second nut. I've done no washer under the head and a lock washer and double nut and I have done no washers and just the double nut. I can't say for sure if any way has made a difference or not. Just wondering what everyone else uses. Quote
Wes806 Posted March 17 Posted March 17 I have used flat washers both side with a stop but then lock washer with stop nut. Not sure if that's correct. Quote
MacAR Posted March 17 Posted March 17 I use a bolt and one nut, no washer. I like to stake the nut with a prick punch to keep it coming off on it's own, but I can still get it off with an impact. Works for me, might not for others. I have used a lock washer in the past if the package of shear bolts comes with them, but don't go out of my way to find one if they don't. 1 Quote
TroyDairy Posted March 17 Posted March 17 fwiw...... Every new piece of equipment we have ever gotten here with a shear bolt has never had washers or dbl nut. All got interference (crushed) nut grade 8 bolts of various sizes. Quote
yellowrosefarm Posted March 17 Posted March 17 Whatever I can find to put in there to get going to finish the job............. 2 1 Quote
iowaboy1965 Posted March 17 Posted March 17 I know there are different theories/opinions on what grade bolt to use. I've used grade 5 & 8 but here is the Google result.. Quote
snoshoe Posted March 17 Posted March 17 1 hour ago, iowaboy1965 said: I know there are different theories/opinions on what grade bolt to use. I've used grade 5 & 8 but here is the Google result.. More lies on the internet. In my experience grade 2 is hardly ever specified. Grade 2 stretches and tears rather than shear. Resulting in rounded hole edges, elongated holes and grooved shafts and hubs. All resulting in the next bolt failing sooner. Grade 5 is the one most commonly specified. Hard enough to shear clean without damaging other parts. Grade 8 sometimes specified for higher strength but can be subject repetitive impact weakening. The thing is use what manufacturer recommends. Generally just the bolt and a self locking nut is used. The idea is to draw the two parts together without clamping them together. Thus increasing shear force. Double nuts in lieu of self locking is certainly permissible. 3 1 Quote
oleman Posted March 17 Posted March 17 I see a share pin as a fuse pin, something to be sacrificed to save a more costly part, in a situation where having something break is acceptable. In the marine world, an anchor that will not return home is dropped via a share joint, normally a recovery ship is given the location and has a job of recovering the anchor and chain, worth several million $US. Quote
iowaboy1965 Posted March 17 Posted March 17 2 hours ago, snoshoe said: More lies on the internet. In my experience grade 2 is hardly ever specified. Grade 2 stretches and tears rather than shear. Resulting in rounded hole edges, elongated holes and grooved shafts and hubs. All resulting in the next bolt failing sooner. Grade 5 is the one most commonly specified. Hard enough to shear clean without damaging other parts. Grade 8 sometimes specified for higher strength but can be subject repetitive impact weakening. The thing is use what manufacturer recommends. Generally just the bolt and a self locking nut is used. The idea is to draw the two parts together without clamping them together. Thus increasing shear force. Double nuts in lieu of self locking is certainly permissible. I had thought the last time I looked it up grade 5 was specified. I don't keep anything around that isn't 5 or 8, as a general rule. Ty for your input. 1 Quote
Gearclash Posted March 18 Posted March 18 4 hours ago, New Englander said: I sure wouldn’t use a grade 8 Manufacturer will designate what grade bolt to use for the shear bolt. There are 3 shear bolts on the New Holland big square baler I have run for 25+ years. Two are 10.9 and one is 8.8. 10.9 is very close to grade 8. Quote
New Englander Posted March 18 Posted March 18 6 hours ago, Gearclash said: Manufacturer will designate what grade bolt to use for the shear bolt. There are 3 shear bolts on the New Holland big square baler I have run for 25+ years. Two are 10.9 and one is 8.8. 10.9 is very close to grade 8. Sorry, the OP was asking about a PTO shaft, not internal bolts. Lacking any experience in those I opined on PTO and in my limited experience I haven't seen any bolts other than specific necked bolts or grade 2 or 5 common bolts. Of course a slip clutch is probably a better but expensive alternative. My post hole auger was an eater of bolts. The manual called for grade 2 and it seemed it would go for ever without shearing one then in a rocky area it would chew up a bunch. I kept a handful on the ready with a couple of wrenches. Big squares: I never saw any in New England but at my CO base there was a outfit in the grass valley that used them. I would watch them and was always impressed with the pickup and stacking truck and its operator. Their storage shed was stacked perfectly neat and very full. Quote
Ihfan4life Posted March 18 Posted March 18 16 minutes ago, New Englander said: Sorry, the OP was asking about a PTO shaft, not internal bolts. Lacking any experience in those I opined on PTO and in my limited experience I haven't seen any bolts other than specific necked bolts or grade 2 or 5 common bolts. Of course a slip clutch is probably a better but expensive alternative. My post hole auger was an eater of bolts. The manual called for grade 2 and it seemed it would go for ever without shearing one then in a rocky area it would chew up a bunch. I kept a handful on the ready with a couple of wrenches. Big squares: I never saw any in New England but at my CO base there was an outfit in the grass valley that used them. I would watch them and was always impressed with the pickup and stacking truck and its operator. Their storage shed was stacked perfectly neat and very full. You apparently don’t visit Vt as big square bales are everywhere … Quote
New Englander Posted March 18 Posted March 18 14 minutes ago, Ihfan4life said: You apparently don’t visit Vt as big square bales are everywhere … Sadly no. Other than Montpelier when I was flying for an insurance Co. years ago there never was a big reason to go there for business. As for my personal pleasure I prefer coastal areas of New England or the Canadian maritime provinces. Perhaps I should expand my area. 1 Quote
stronger800 Posted March 21 Posted March 21 I stuck a junk looking screwdriver in my father in-laws walk behind snowblower once and secured it with black tape. Finished his driveway. I think you’d need a snap on screwdriver to work on a 300hp 1000rpm shaft though raining here today Quote
New Englander Posted March 21 Posted March 21 2 hours ago, stronger800 said: I stuck a junk looking screwdriver in my father in-laws walk behind snowblower once and secured it with black tape. Finished his driveway. I think you’d need a snap on screwdriver to work on a 300hp 1000rpm shaft though raining here today My friends dad never greased the auger shaft on his snowblower. It was discovered after transmission destroyed. My buddy and I heated the auger to nuclear and, with much effort, pressed the shaft out with a 50 ton press. His dad wondered why the shear bolts never sheared! Salt in the snow near the street probably made for the extreme corrosion. Quote
stronger800 Posted March 21 Posted March 21 Owners manuals actually want you to remove the bolts before you grease the augers. Not that I’ve ever done that, but I do remove and silver or copperify them every so often 1 Quote
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