1955 international 300 utility w/front loader

[Tyler Fontes]

Good evening everyone, my name is Tyler.  I have a couple of questions to ask about this 1955-56 international 300 utility tractor that I'm trying to restore. So I have this 1955 international 300 utility tractor that has a front loader on it, and I've been trying to restore it for couple of months now. I rebuilt the head on the motor, re-did new wiring and of course some other things, and I finally got it running and driving, and it runs and drives very nice and smooth. I just have one problem, the front loader won't go up or down and I don't know why. This 300 utility tractor that I have has a front hydraulic gear pump in the front, that runs a shaft through the front grill, towards the motor and attaches to the motor wheel that has the belt for all the moving parts including the fan, etc.. Im assuming that pump is bad and has no pressure to run the rams on the loader. Ive looked up online trying to find a replacement hydraulic front gear pump, that can replace the old one, but I don't know what pump would work or where to even buy one at. Can someone on this community help my fix this problem and explain to me what could possibly be the problem, or even tell me or send me a link to a hydraulic front gear pump that would work for this front loader? Please and thank you all for your time!

[MacAR]

Hi, and welcome to Red Power. Firstly, your front pump is probably aftermarket. I don't think IH ever used one but could be wrong. If you haven't already, make certain the pump is actually turning. Those drive couplers can break, and if so you won't have any pressure. Once you've verified it's turning, crack a line and start the tractor. It's messy, but a quick and easy way to see if you have pressure. If neither of those are your issue, you'll have to post some pictures of the setup so we can see how it's put together. 

Secondly, your 300 should have a hydraulic pump on the side of the engine to run the rear lift and remotes (if so equipped). You might be able to plumb the loader into that system if the front pump is shot. Just a thought. 

Mac 

[snoshoe]

Mostly what Mac said but yeah those front pump packages were usually put together by the loader manufacturer. Usually the entire loader hydraulic system is separate. Meaning it has it's own reservoir and filter/screen. Maybe simply out of oil?

[mmi]

Welcome 

Tough love time...

photos needed (you could be in a newbie hold yet?)

ITs likely the IH painted wagner 33-4 series,?

Before going any $$$ deeper KNOW the loader and tractor are for light and occasional horse barn use.get dirty trailer queen .

BTDT 10x. IH trailer queen /duty, engine mtd hyd system is even worse.

Thoughts of ANYTHING more just leads to $$$$ problems. Stop now and buy something guaranteed to do what you want .

Wanting to proceed we need photos details...?  out of oil, plugged filters etc ? MOST likely #2 or #1 , engine to hyd pump drive system is toast some or all.

When you hit $200 shelve the project for another time and put the next $2k into another tractor.

Get the pump sorted then step up to steering gear .arms, spindle issues,other hyd issues ,Otherwise great LITTLE tractor.

 

[supermechanic]

Pump has a spline that mates inside the coupler at the front of the engine. Nobody ever lubes the spline, it goes away from rust-fretting.

 Make sure the pump is turning.

[Jeff-C-IL]

There should be a separate oil reservoir - sometimes it is the frame of the loader.    Make sure you have oil (common SAE 30 motor oil is typical on these old systems).

Also, possible that a control valve problem (stuck open relief valve) may be preventing the system from building pressure.   As suggested, crack the hose and see if its actually pumping first.

If you do need a new pump, SurplusCenter.com is a great place to find pumps, etc.   All you need is one that 1) Physically fits & 2) has enough flow & pressure to move the loader.   Usually fitting sizes in & out can give you an idea of "volume" of an old pump with no data.   Look at other pumps with the same size fittings and you will likely be close!

The only caveat to the above comment is if your old pump has the pressure relief built in.  Some systems did that rather than have one in the control valve assembly.  Look for a plug with a adjustable screw, or "valvey" look on it.   If so, you may need to install one externally.

 

[Tyler Fontes]

On 4/3/2025 at 5:10 PM, MacAR said:

Hi, and welcome to Red Power. Firstly, your front pump is probably aftermarket. I don't think IH ever used one but could be wrong. If you haven't already, make certain the pump is actually turning. Those drive couplers can break, and if so you won't have any pressure. Once you've verified it's turning, crack a line and start the tractor. It's messy, but a quick and easy way to see if you have pressure. If neither of those are your issue, you'll have to post some pictures of the setup so we can see how it's put together. 

Secondly, your 300 should have a hydraulic pump on the side of the engine to run the rear lift and remotes (if so equipped). You might be able to plumb the loader into that system if the front pump is shot. Just a thought. 

Mac 

Mark do you mind if I could FaceTime you and show you what I have setup? What’s your number? If so, I wonder if you can send me a private message so that your number is not shown to everyone

[Tyler Fontes]

[Tyler Fontes]

So this is the setup! The loader gos up and down.  The back three point, goes down, but barely goes up, it struggles like bad. I’ve also noticed, the hoses are hot! Like temperature hot after running it. The pump on the side of the motor is also very hot, don’t know if that’s normal or not. The hoses also shake and make weird noses under pressure! I don’t know if that’s because maybe there’s air in the hoses? The hydraulic oil is full, but now I’ve noticed the oil is white after running it, I’m guessing water got in after sitting so long. Would that affect the pressure? I drained the water, and added new oil. But the oil turned white again. I’m assuming all the water didn’t get out, it hard to flush it out. If the loader works, and so does the back, but it’s struggling, does that mean there’s supposed to be two hydraulic pumps running it? The side on the motor and front? 

[MacAR]

5 minutes ago, Tyler Fontes said:

Mark do you mind if I could FaceTime you and show you what I have setup? What’s your number? If so, I wonder if you can send me a private message so that your number is not shown to everyone

I'm too dumb for face time, otherwise I would. I can also categorically state I'm not smart enough to figure out that setup. Looks like the engine drive pump is plumbed into the loader and the front pump isn't hooked to anything. Someone a lot smarter than me will be along shortly to sort it out I'm sure. 

[Tyler Fontes]

[MacAR]

What does the pressure gauge say on the front of the loader cylinder? 

[iowaboy1965]

Pump shaking and making noise is cavitation. That will ruin pumps over time. The white may be air in the hyd oil from cavitation. Does it look like lots of tiny bubles? A pic of the white oil would probably help us determine if its moisture or airieated oil. Those era farmalls had a brass screen in the resivoir for a filter that could collapse when it got covered with snot from moisture. Wasnt uncommon in cold winter climates for them to shake and shudder a bit until the oil warmed up. But they should not do it all the time. My experience is with a 400 row crop so a utility could be a bit different.

Another possible source of hot oil is  going over a bypass possibly from the system stuck on high presure. Make sure any hydraulic valves to remotes are centered. Sometimes they would not kick back to neutral when the cylinder reached the end of its stroke. 

This all applies to the tractor system and not the extra pump and set up for the loader. I can't Cypher out much from your pics. Snoeshoe or hydro tech or one of the many other smarter than me folks will most likely have some input soon. 

[snoshoe]

Been studying that nest of worms until I'm dizzy. I agree that front pump has been disabled.  Loader valve has been plumbed in series with tractor hydraulics. I assume single action lift. Since it hasn't been mentioned. I also assume no power steering. I would ask if the engine runs freely  when either loader or hitch valve is actuated

[acem]

Those hydraulic line are hard to follow.

It appears the loader lift cylinders are single acting and bucket cylinder is double acting.

Is it possible oil is getting low when the single acting cylinders raise the loader?

I'm not familiar with the 300 hydraulic system.

 

[mmi]

Again welcome

See photos worked for you

 

Only have more sage tough love to offer..

Its hard to tell from here? But yes its two hack jobs of the wrong answers.

The engine pump cant run that loader even if it had 10g/vs 3 g of oil.

Disable ALL external runs of lines and oil from the engine pump,Maybe too convoluted at this point.

Put that back to factory as much as possible per parts books, everywhere.

If its running ONLY on "engine IH system" ( and both together is worse) you are maxing everything out and 5-10x additional pieces are going to DIE .

Once engine system runs ONLY, the rear remotes ,top up the oil under the seat (but I would suspect a now destroyed and blocking filter)along with possible other issues.

Then remove at least front 1/2 of loader and etc, until you $$$ can address the "front pump" issues $$$$.

As this (from here) is a < #1200 first issue 300 it comes with the additional inherent frailties.Simply do not pass go,unless and IF !! you intend to ONLY !! load bark for the yard < 10 hrs a year>!   IF you intend to do ANYTHING more,or lift more than #200.. Buy a machine that is built and WARRANTED against that use.

Peruse tales from other owners here.

ONLY IH loaders here are weekender/novelty factory setups. ZERO ....... 300/50 not even with the little #34.

ANY "real" work needs done we go to a designed ji case  of '68-98

Would own an IH '68-85 with factory set up for 2xxx series. But      2x $$ ,the better performing/designed case.

Keep us informed

 

[hillman]

The tractor will do more work than loading bark but I do agree with mmi if the budget permits, I would upgrade. the IH pump would run it in good condition, but the auxiliary would be preferred if the pump is bad. Personally, I would use the front pump for everything and get a 3 bank control valve to run the loader and hitch. but thats expensive with hoses,valve and a pump.- more than the tractor is worth. The front pump is disconnected and the IH pump is hooked in series like snoshoe says. ( its where the steel line was cut and that awful 'U' made from 90s is, All those 90s and unnecessary fittings can cause heat in a system that has limited oil storage.   

 That said I don't know thats up with it, if the loader is going up than there's something going on with how he plumbed the hitch or a valve stuck . dunno.

 I have a W4 and a F300 working off IH pumps( 300 with a much better loader than you have- works just fine) but finally found something  a little newer ( I like old junk) in a 606 with a IH 2001 loader. old but with better hydraulics and good steering it does what I need. We don't know what you plan to use it for but 50 years ago the tractor like you have did a lot of work and the farmers thought they had a great tractor. I used my W4 for many years handling 4x4 hardcoare bales with armstrong steering. Yours can work but we got spoiled

 The steering on a 300U is one of their worse designs and not suitable for a lot of loader work . It will fail or is worn out now. check that out carefully before you go further 

Just my 2 cents

[Diesel Doctor]

I see in the first picture that the tractor pump is plumbed into the loader valve.

That should not be if wanting to use the main pump off the crank.

Tyler did not say where he is from on his avatar.

If someone is close, that has some hydraulics knowledge, they should stop and give him a hand. 

It can easily be fixed with a little help from us.

 

[supermpuller]

under the seat there is a dip stick, check oil  if its  milky looking drain  oil and replace with Hy Tran. Next remove the top of rear end cover amd inspect the filter it a screen and can  restrict oil flow. My dad bought a 300U  with a loader used it to plant, plow  and   cultivate corn and beans.. Raised some cattle and used the loader to load  manure spreader. The  300U still had the original TA in it and was sold in my farm sale last year

[supermpuller]

After looking at your pictures, you should use the  Hydaulic couplers on the back of your tractor to lift your loader and tip bucket then you can use the short levers  on your right side o the seat and get rid of most of your hoses and controll single  and  double controls. If you text me  we could phone each other  

[snoshoe]

Started out the loader didn't work and you wanted to replace front pump. Now loader works and hitch has no lift capacity. What changed?? Nothing wrong that I can see with the way it is plumbed now except the unsightly mess they made of it. The pump running hot is an indication system is on pressure. Hence my question on if the engine runs more freely with a lever actuated. More feedback and we can zero in on your problem.

[jimb2]

When I was young Dad had a 300U and when the pump behind the distributor started to whine, 2PT hitch became jerky and hydraulic lines got hot it was time to remove the seat, lift the top off the hydraulic reservoir and clean/replace the suction screen. It always had slivers of hydraulic hose in it. I don't know if hydraulic hose back in the 1950s was prone to deteriorate over time.
It was difficult to follow the hydraulic lines in the photos. 

[Jeff-C-IL]

I would concur with others.   You do not want the OE pump running the loader anyway.   I suggest removing the loader and getting the OE system back to normal operation first.  Find out whats overheating the oil.   Those OE pumps are too $$$ to ruin running it like that.   So simplify the system by disconnecting the loader from it.  Once the Tractor is working, then move on to the loader.

Figure out why they disconnected the nose pump and get that straightened out.    A good live pump mounted on a engine drive like that makes a good loader - we had a Ford 800 with a pump and loader like that - loader worked excellent.   Problem was no power steering - could not steer with full bucket!

 

[MacAR]

Jeff is right. The pump will run you $600 at least. I know because I'm about to buy one for my 450. Do exactly as was said above, remove the loader and get the main system squared away first. Then worry about the front pump and loader. 

Mac

[snoshoe]

Can't agree with those telling you to remove loader. Requires repairing/replacing expensive/nla pipes. Information we have says loader is not current problem.