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Everything posted by jimb2

  1. Re CAV pump on an IH German Diesel engine in the very early 1970s the IH 54/74 series tractors had a CAV/DPA injection pump installed but later production in 1972 the of the IH German Diesel engines had Bosch VA-BR pumps in stalled. See this link for the IH Service Manual - 454 474 574 674 2400 2500 Tractors on Group 1 General Page 7 it states the Static timing for 454 & 2400 with D-179 3cyl German with CAV/DPA pump as being 20 BTDC. I would guess the D-155 3 cyl would be about the same. Also on Group 4 Fuel System Page1, The CAV fuel system is described. Did your 500C already have a separate fuel lift pump as the CAV system usually has a lift pump. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/121219-d239-674-engine-manual-pdf/
  2. Hi Kirk, Re, My indicator isn't working properly. It gets warm but doesn't glow. Needs to be replaced. Before replacing anything, if you own a Volt meter do some voltage checks. On the 434 the GP switch was built into the ignition switch, you had to turn the switch past the ON position and push the switch IN and hold to turn ON the GPs. As you probably already know the GPs are wired in series so any bad one causes problems for them all. The new kit that replaces these GPs are all 12V and wired in parallel so a bad one other than a dead short to ground does not affect the others. With the ignition switch pushed IN for the GPs you should have 6V to battery Ground at the black wire on the first GP next the battery box. If you don't have 6V then check at the Indicator on the dash, one side should be 12V coming from the Ignition switch and the other side should be 6V same as the black wire to the first GP. Each GP should measure about 1.2 to1.5V when measuring across the input wire to the output wire. Also make sure the wires on the GPs are not corroded and the also the ground wire that goes to the engine block to the GP closest the rad. NEVER PUT 12V battery power on a GP as it will burn out instantly, check with an Ohm meter should be around 1 to 2 Ohms as mention in my previous post. Years ago when I worked on the GPs, I only had an analog VOM so measuring accuracy was only about 1 Ohm not like todays digital VOMs.
  3. Hi Kirk, I am posting below links and text messages from YT forum from 2012, some links no longer work but there are enough to answer your question. The prices have probably gone up 3 to 4 x since 2012. YTD Jdemaris link for replacement glow plugs: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=959462 Another link: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=999655 The control switch sends power through the glow indicator on the dashboard-left, and then through each glow plug. Note I said "through." They are all wired in series, one on the dash and four on the engine. If any plug goes bad, nothing will work. Keep in mind that when all is hooked in series, each plug only runs on about 1 volt. So, don't try to hook 12 volts directly to any of them. Heat up time is long, usually around a minute. That's with the original style plugs, e.g. Champion CH28, Bosch 0250001001, Lucas DS104, etc. Some people have converted to fast-heat conversion plugs that are now offered for old Mercededs 190D cars - that originally had the same slow system as your British IH. Original Glow Plugs: I just pulled a new Champion CH28 out the box and checked resistance (it's the plug for a B275 or B414). 1.8 ohms. I also pulled a used Bosch off the shelf for the same tractors. 2.2 ohms. Both listed as 9/10th of a volt and 40 amps. 18 mm thread with a 13/16" hex. They are rated .9 of a volt, not of an ohm. They sell them right here on this Website for $40, but I have no idea how correct their aftermarket part is. 703557r92 Glow Plug Resistor Indicator - For Models: B250, 275, 354, 414, 424, 434, 444, 2300, 2444. Replaces 703557R92, 706685R92. (Part No: 3042230R91) $39.60 Glow plugs are Champion AG28 or CH28 (155). Bosch # 0250001001 or 0250001010 Lucas: DS104 Beru: 214GK All are rated at .9 of a volt and 40 amps, i.e. 36 watts. Ohm's Law says ohms = volts divided by amps. That should be .025 ohm (1/4) but can't say I ever checked. I never use an ohm-meter for checking glow plugs. Too many false readings. Also such specs can be misleading, at least to me. I suspect those plugs are rated at .9 volts because of the total system resistance, not one plug. So, all five units run in series might equal that 1/4 ohm, but I'm no math wiz. Also used in Mercedes 190D cars besides the IH tractors. Posted by LJD on Jan 14, 2012: New style fast heat Glow Plugs: The IH B414 uses the exact same glow plugs as a Mercedes 190D car. There are complete "fast heat" glow plug upgrade kits sold now for the Mercedes that direct fit the IH B-275 and B-414. No need for any adapters. Kit comes with four 12 volt plugs that get wired in parallel instead of series - and a controller. Complete kit with four fast heat plugs, new wires, relay, controller, etc. is $144. Here's the parts list: The complete conversion kit includes the following * Heavy Duty Manual Relay * Quality push button hole mount switch * Mercedes factory 80 amp fuse holder * 2 - 80 amp strip fuses * Correct size and length of wire needed * All terminal connectors required * 4 Upgraded Pencil type Fast Glow Plugs * Three New Glow Plug Wires * Complete step-by-step illustrated instructions http://www.mercedessource.com/node/8320 You can by the kit without the controller for $80 - $120. Here is one on Ebay -but I'm sure you can find cheaper elsewhere . . . http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-QUICK-FAST-GLOW-PLUG-KIT-190D-200D-220D-240D-/190579548413 And you could also just buy four plugs for $15 each and figure out the rest yourself. If you order any Mercedes kits - make sure you verify the have the 18 mm glow plugs and not the newer smaller ones. The correct fast-heat Bosch Duratherm plug to fit your B-414 is Bosch # 0250201044. Threads are 18 mm X 1.5 - just like your originals. Work at full 12 volts and draw 20 amps each when cold and taper to 8 amps each when hot. You can buy just the plugs at $16 each at Amazon.com and several other places. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0250201044-Glow-Plug-Fast/dp/B000GTNFWK
  4. About 50 years ago Dad and I replaced a broken spring item #35 on our 434. It was very simple we took note of the amount of thread on rod item #41 was protruding above the locknut on the trunnion item #34, pulled pin item #32 and removed the top link bellcrank item #33, remove locknut of rod and rod had a flat screwdriver slot on top, unscrewed rod almost all the way out of the trunnion then Dad wrapped a few wraps of binder twine around the rod and tied it so the rod could not fall down into the hydraulic housing, finished unscrewing the rod out of the trunnion, removed the broken spring and replaced with new spring, screwed rod part way into trunnion and then cut off the binder twine, reinstall bellcrank, then continued screwing rod up into trunnion until we could install locknut and then screwed some more to take up the slack and tightened locknut and compared the tension on the bellcrank to our other tractor a B414 that had the same bellcrank. That is how I remember the procedure.
  5. The very first 574 I saw here in Canada in the early 1970s had a CAV/DPA injection pump with a lift pump on the right side of the engine. Neighbor bought a new 574 in spring of 1972 and Dad bought a 454 in fall of 1972 and they had Bosch VA fuel systems and a different ether cold start assist option. My brother still has the 454 and it is running well except for some hydraulic leaks. The early 454/2400. 574 and 674 could have a CAV/DPA fuel system. The 475 had a CAV/DPA fuel system as it had a Perkins engine. See the IH 54/74 series Service Manuals at:
  6. Hi Steve, see attach photo of page from my IH Service manual, are you talking about springs 35 and 43?
  7. Looks good, I knew the direct replacement had to be available as my brother has five IH/CIH tractors with 4 Cyl German Diesel engines in them. The older IH ones have the VA pumps and the newer CIH ones have the VE pumps with the 2 bolt hole mount. The VE pumps have an inbuilt cold start spring that when the engine is shut off and the fuel pressure drops in the pump the spring activates the excess fuel function on startup until fuel pressure in the pump is restored. This is good and not so good as even when the engine is warm and started the excess fuel is activated and you will see a puff of black smoke out the exhaust for a few seconds.
  8. It is controlled by the bolt that the steering arm is connected to BUT before disassembling the cylinder, jack up the from wheels up, disconnect PS cylinder at the rear under the foot rest, IIR correctly there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold the cylinder mount to the transmission case and then manually turn the front wheels from max left to right to see if there is any mechanical binding, you may have to start the engine to rotate the steering wheel some as left to right will be limited by the steering control arm but by disconnecting the cylinder it will tell whether the problem is in the mechanical part of the steering or in the PS valve and cylinder.
  9. The steering valve overhaul procedure is in the IH Service manual. Use the Message function (Envelope at top right of web page) of this Board to send me an email and I will email you a section of the manual.
  10. The older B414 had a upside down “U” with a hitch pin in the bottom, the later 434 had the same upside down “U” but with nuts and lock washers on the bottom. The hitch pins were a pain as go through some brush or tall grass and the pins were gone. The nuts could come loose as well, we used to take the visegrips and crimp the end of the threads so the nuts would not fall off. Another tractor we had just had bolts coming up from the bottom with a flat iron bar on top with two holes in it. Re PS, does your tractor have dual hydraulic pumps stacked one behind the other? One drives the 3pt and the other the PS. The turning of the PS is controlled by the valve in the PS cylinder that is moved by the steering arm.
  11. Make sure there is sufficient hydraulic oil in the reservoir. Jack the front end up so the front wheels are off the ground and try turn left and right to see if there is in mechanical binding. Also you may have to disconnect the PS cylinder under the left foot pedal to see if it is causing the problem.
  12. When I was young on my Dad’s farm we had a B414 and 434 and I would clean up the brakes once a year, usually after first cut hay was finished. I used the edge of a flat file to scrap across the brake disk to remove the glaze. When you get new disks you may have to grind the circumference down of the new disks to fit inside the worn groove of the metal surfaces or the new disks will just ride on the lip of the worn brake metal surfaces.
  13. Here is a couple links to look at: IH UK Bradford built tractors brake repairs: https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/International-harvester-brakes https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/bradford-built-international-harvester-major-brake-overhaul Bull pinion shaft leaking into brake housing: https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1377566&highlight=jimb2
  14. You will have to find the cylinders and hydraulic valves from an IH 1550 loader as that was the difference between a 1501 vs 1550 loaders. See attached photo, although I would do a better job of routing the hydraulic hoses. Google IH 1550 loader. Also see this archive post: https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/118581-international-loader/ 1550 had down pressure on the loader boom.
  15. Neighbor had a CIH 4230 with the FWD-REV transmission, I never heard him complain about having to put on the Park brake on a hill and we have plenty of hills. My brother has an IH 684 and a CIH 3230 with T/A and they would hold on a hill in HI or LO T/A with engine off. The T/A on the 684 started fail and the first symptom was it would no longer hold on a hill in HI with the engine off as the pressure would leak off and the hydraulic clutch would release. As I understand the FWD-REV transmission on the IH Doncaster, UK build tractors is the same as the T/A except that the FWD-REV has two clutch packs and hydraulic pressure is used for both FWD and REV clutch packs where as the T/A only used hydraulic pressure for HI clutch and spring pressure for LO clutch. The other differences were with the FW-REV the REV was removed out of the Range Transmission so Range trans only had HI and LO on the shift lever also there was a mechanical arrangement connected to the clutch pedal preventing changing from FWD-REV without the clutch pedal being pushed to disengage the transmission clutch. The 54,74,84 series had a separate small hydraulic pump in the bottom of the clutch housing in front of the Speed transmission that supplied hydraulic pressure to the T/A or the FWD-REV clutch packs, in the later 85, 95, 32XX and 42XX the hydraulic supply was from the main hydraulic MCV eliminating the separate hydraulic pump and hydraulic oil was supplied to the valve as shown in the photos I attached. The valve for the T/A was control by an electric solenoid connected to the T/A switch on the dash, the valve for the FWD-REV clutch pack was controlled by a mechanical linkage. This is my understanding and I maybe incorrect and someone can supply the correct information. Luckily on my brother's CIH 3230, we haven't had to be into the T/A or as CIH now calls it "partial power shift with 16 forward an 8 reverse gears".
  16. Hi, with engine off will the tractor roll forward with the FWD/REV level in FWD? Will the tractor roll forward with the FWD/REV lever in REV? There are some hydraulic pressure checks on the bottom of the clutch housing in front of the speed transmission. See attached photos of a couple pages of my CIH Service Manual below
  17. There is the switch between the Temperature and oil pressure gauges. Normally there is a key in the switch and we always left in the ON position. I can’t remember exactly what it controlled, it was not required to be in the ON position for the tractor to Start and Run. On the UK models, I believe that was where the horn button was installed.
  18. As Snoshoe says. Your B275 may or may not have a key switch on the bottom right of dash but IIRC this switch was a requirement for the North American market and just controls the lights on gauges when the light switch is ON.
  19. You will require an ignition switch from a later model IH Bradford, UK, built tractor such as 434, 444 or 384 if you want to include the glow plug function in the switch other wise a common ignition switch with OFF, ON and START will work.
  20. Hi, see attached photo item #4 has a roll pin that fits in a slot in the collar item #5, the PTO lever moves the collar backward and forward, in one position it connects the PTO driven shaft from the PTO clutch to the PTO output shaft. If Operators try to force the PTO into gear when the clutch is not adjusted properly the roll pin will shear off. The roll pin can be replaced by removing the 3 bolts in item #3 and extracting the PTO lever mechanism, the fun is to re-install the lever with the new roll pin and get the roll pin back into the the slot in the collar. Good luck JimB
  21. Very nice 434, Dad had one from 1969 until about 1980 with IH 1501 loader on it. I used it a lot on the family farm. Here is the test for leaking 3pt lift cylinder seal, with implement on the 3pt, lift implement to max lift height, shut engine off and close Isolator valve at the front right of the seat, let tractor sit for a while and if implement goes down the 3pt cylinder seal is leaking, if it stays up the problem is else where, OPEN Isolator valve before starting engine again.
  22. I learned something today, I did not realize that IH actually made a frame for the Bradford utilities for the IH 1850 loader. Our local IH dealer always put IH 1501 or 1550 loaders on Bradford tractors and the 1850 loaders on the Doncaster tractors. The dealer also Frey loaders that were lower cost.
  23. As Binderoid and Snoshoe said. Does the oil get hot if you are running the tractor without using 3pt? Also does it get hot if you are using the Remote outlet? Re Draft control lever, it should be fully forward unless you are using a 3pt implement like a plow or harrow, I am not sure it will work with your dirt scoop or not. Another thing to check is the Fast/Slow valve on the left front side of hydraulic housing, make sure it is all the way out. I have heard of the roll pin breaking and it is stuck half way between Fast & Slow also there is an O-ring that can break apart and plug the holes in the valve bore.
  24. Read the replies for the Case 585 brakes, mostly the same but depending on s/n of the 884 it may not have the plastic hydraulic oil reservoir for the brakes.
  25. Hi, the loader arms will work but the frame will not fit. Years ago the neighbor had a 434 and traded on a IH 574, he wanted to keep his IH 1501 loader because he had made some custom buckets for his 1501 loader on the 434, so he kept the loader arms and bought a mounting frame for the IH 1850 loader to fit on the 574. He told me later that he wished he had traded for a new IH 1850 loader and modified his custom buckets. Proper IH loader is either an IH 1501 or 1550 loader, in the USA, IH would install an IH 2000 loader on those tractors but in my opinion the 2000 loader was too heavy for that size tractor. Like putting size 12 boots on size 8 foot.
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