supermechanic

The shop I work in has steel I beams cast into the floor. It keeps the grousers on tracked stuff from marking up the concrete. It has also served many times as a pull point for jacking bent stuff back into position. The beams are connected in a grid pattern and also serve as a ground point for welding. The whole building frame is I beams, so I only need one welding lead.

cheapest jd 303 oil you can find, followed by the correct spec oil.

just did a little research, found out that Checker Motors built the cabs for both FWD and Dodge.

looks like they used a Dodge cab.

first thing to do see if the engine runs. top off all of the fluids then pull start it on diesel.

tracks are on backwards

looks like a 340. Mine has (had) a 3 point, and a pto. heavy duty framework for attachments

poor little under powered HD-5. Owner went to all that trouble and left the 2-71 intact. interesting cage. looks to be the pet project of some hydraulic wizzard.

get a donor vehicle, complete with all accessories if you are going to do a swap. the little brackets and connectors are the most difficult item when changing to a different engine

I would be more worried that there is no 'give' in the welded strap. Very likely to experience metal fatigue at the welded points. A few hard bumps and you no longer have anything attaching the vehicle to the trailer.

hook up with a truck shop or a school bus garage. if the shop is any good, they will not re-install engine coolant on any job where it needed drained. plenty of weight in antifreeze.

All I get is a notice "access denied" then a bunch of letters that look as if a cat walked across the keyboard.

You are right,I do hate it. I click on it and nothing happens.

Side note: I believe the big block chevy was invented in order to turn people into mechanics.they sure do make plenty of power, but the valve train is fiddly. the ones I was responsible for seemed to eat camshafts about every 50,000 miles.

most likely, all it needs is a new fan clutch. i had 7 of these in a commercial fleet, not firetrucks, but c30 4 speed big blocks. got rid of the last one about 7 years ago. at highway speed, cooling was ok. In slow traffic, watch out. if you can't hear the fan howling on a long, hard hill, that shows the fluid coupling is shot.

I am of the opinion that the wrong lube is better than no lube. I have two of the 77 skil saws, one has always had a diamond blade on it for tile, paver bricks,and such. Has the 90w in the gear box. The other has a combo rip blade. rip saw has a small leak in the gear box, I filled up with nlgi 1 grease maybe ten years ago, no problems.

The above is a bit of a 'make do' fix, but if attention is kept regarding the set screws, it should work.

get a pulley to match the 1.25 shaft. pulley needs to have set screws. after setting up new pulley, tighten set screws, till they make a mark on the wisconsin's output shaft. Grind a small flat on the shaft where the set screws land. re install, tighten set screws till they take a good bite, you should be good. If you can run the pulley tight against the 1-7/16" step, using the threaded end and a nut, so much the better.

Okay, my bad. block is dry sleeve. nevermind.

not crazy. Find someone with a portable boring bar. all you need to do is pop the oil pan off, remove piston in that cylinder, get bored out for thin wall sleeve. then you hone to size after install,clean up real good, reassemble. not a totally terrible job, but still time consuming.

i believe the hour meter is at 11,000 on my buddy's tractor. it dug a lot of basements, put in quite a few driveways.

Hi mike. that chain looks to be about the same as the one on a jd 490e that my best buddy owns. 6 years or so, i have been trying to get him to commit to a full undercarriage replacement. 6 years he has been saying "maybe in the spring" already shortened chain by 1 link

Probably a new holland engine. they were 6.6 and 7.8 liter. look at the block, possibly a CNH logo cast in to it somewhere. sturdy engine, used in stationary installations and marine, as well as agricultural and truck.

This has been sitting here for more than a week, nobody has chimed in, so I will take a poke at it. Disclaimer,the last time I had an 8n was 1979, so I could be relying on memory a bit much. Begin by loosening the hood from the front cowl, set the hood back a bit. Gas tank fits pretty tight to the hood, so work around it as best as you can. Remove front cowl (radiator grill),or whatever you want to call it. Radiator comes out next, giving full access to the front of the engine. Original thermostat is inside the upper radiator hose.

to reassemble, use a couple of ratcheting chain booms. easy peasey.