supermechanic

When installing the shanks, if a tight joint all around can be fitted, a weld parallel to the length of the cutting edge, at both top and bottom at the rear of the shank (the furthest point from the tip), is preferable to a perimeter weld(all around the shank). If the new shank fits the edge loosely, a perimeter weld is needed, but it will create a stress riser at the toe of the weld.

Pre-heat and post-heat are your friends when installing new shanks.

I have replaced hundreds of teeth and installed dozens of new shanks. The price for the kit shown is incredibly good. I usually made sure a few spare keepers and teeth went out with every machine.

When I was young, my father told me of his dentist being killed in a collision with a horse. I believe the horse went up on the hood, and came in through the windshield.

Did some roadside recovery on class 8 trucks years ago. Some transmissions rely on pumps to keep the lube oil flowing. If the particular transmission in the truck you are towing does not have a pump on the output shaft, extended towing may cause overheating from lack of lubrication. Damage may follow. This is likely where the idea that the rear would lock comes from. It was a written procedure that any flat towing was done with the axles pulled. Tow truck driver was not expected to know which transmissions contained both a front and a rear pump, hence, all were treated the same. This was in my shop, your experiences may vary.

Those things are loud. I spent two weeks making cove with the exact set in a radial.

3 or 4 cans in my kit, down to where the brush won't reach, but way too much in the bottom to throw out.

You're happy, I'm happy. All is good. It has been an adventure keeping these three trucks going. We got them second-hand from the telephone company; all still have the original 11' utility body and Hi-Ranger bucket lift. The two with the automatic trans have the hydraulic PTO belt-driven on the front of the engine; I like to tell the intelligent soul who engineered this what I really think of him.

"Your mechanical pump will not suck through an electric pump. " Won't suck through a rattle pump. Old style carter and holley low -pressure pumps with an impeller will flow. "Personally I'd just fix the return lines" Return line problems will come back; I found the longest fix lasted six years. YMMV

"Would it be better to run it full time or just to prime it when cold? " Try it both ways; a pull on a steep grade should tell if the mechanical pulls enough through the electric that is first in line.

Best update you can do with the IDI is the electric fuel pump . A nice Holley motor-type pump at each tank. 8 or 10 psi is enough. Don't use the 'rattle' pumps. No more cranking till the battery is almost dead to get fuel into the injector pump. Even with new return caps and lines on the injectors, air will eventually cause a drain-back problem at the inj. pump. Been running 3 IDIs here since about 1995, maybe others have done better with the return lines, but this works for me. I've run the electric into the mechanical, and I've blocked off the mech pump and gone all electric. Both seem to work. Wire in a switch on the oil pressure to cut the pump for safety. Manual bypass to prime before cranking (or same button if you are running manual glows). You will be amazed how easily the engine starts.

Imagine the biggest dong ever. Then imagine it bigger. Then imagine it in the middle of a public square. On a platform. With people walking around it. And not one of those people paying any attention to it.

I sometimes wonder who determined that bat crap is the craziest? Rat crap, pigeon crap, frog crap, snake crap, what's wrong with them? Yes, I know this is an old thread, but we have no pictures, so I need something to fill my time.

I believe I understand how yours is configured. Years ago, I worked on a pumper from American-LaFrance. V12 flathead, 24 spark plugs, two distributors, two carburetors, a tinkerer's dream. Driveshaft to transmission ran directly through the pump; I don't recall if the pump would spin at all times, or if there was a disconnect. Neat thing I do remember is the water by-pass for the engine cooling, you could use the water you were pumping to cool the engine.

These have always been my go-to solution. https://www.ebay.com/itm/388798988661?chn=ps&google_free_listing_action=view_item

Interesting. Had a 1985 chevrolet tandem tanker (EX VFD) that we used for water at the construction company. Pump was on the pto. Odometer gear is on the output shaft of those transmissions. Side note: our tanker had a 454 gas engine, got about 3 miles a gallon. Slower than drying paint.

Them Rogators look handy. I think I would hire myself out if I had one.

To rule out something in the ABS, what is the pedal reaction with the engine off, key on?

That's a good way also, as the bottom hoop just needs to be grafted into the gasser support. Have done this. Currently have 3 Ford IDIs in my fleet.

As mentioned above, do this after dark, when all are inside the nest. Chlorinated brake cleaner is non-flammable, so the chance of someone burning down the haymow is minimal.

Chlorinated brake cleaner. Two cans, two people . Use the red straws to make a concentrated stream. Get the stuff that is known to the State of California to cause just about everything this side of the Second Coming. Non-chlorinated is just fancy spray acetone, not nearly as effective.

While everything is apart, look closely at the bottom of the radiator support. Ford did no favor when they attached the batteries to the support. Replacement diesel radiator supports are occasionally available, usually costing about twice as much as the support for a gasser.

They run, and they run, and they run. Get one early, and you won't have to spend so much time chasing repairs, leaves time for important stuff.

My go-to close-range rifle would be the Marlin 444. Open sights, nothing to get caught on brush. 35 Remington is another good one. There is a newer thing called a 375 big bore, which is a 38 caliber on a 30-30 case. All will work. Including your 308

My personal fleet has trucks from 1968, 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1995. Automobiles are from 1992, 1993, and two from 1997. My daughter has the only outlier at 2014. Guess which one has needed the most work? Every vehicle gets a chassis lube twice a year, oil changes usually around 5000 miles. The trucks with limited use get an oil change every two years, regardless of mileage. The vehicles I keep are examples of the most trouble-free models from American automobile production. I was recently offered a quite large sum for one of my trucks. I sold it. (How many can you drive at once?)