supermechanic

as on any flat tappet motor, if you are breaking in a new cam, remember that the only oil to the cam lobes gets there by splash action. Run the engine fast enough at initial start up to ensure a plentiful supply of oil in this area. Of course, if you are running used cam and lifters, as long as the same lifter and lobes are in contact, not a problem. OTOH, if you got lifters mixed-up, and they are riding on different lobes, you have a hot mess awaiting you.

Also check for correct heat range on the spark plugs. Too hot a plug will detonate the intake charge, causing sputtering, backfiring and such. engine will run fine until a good load it thrown upon it.

WHAT DO YOU WANT TO KNOW? I had a big planer, actually a 4 head shaper, would do 24 inch by 6 inch, all sides at once. It used a 40 hp 240 volt 3 phase motor. I have a 90 kw generator, powered by a 7 liter turbo diesel. It took all the generator has to start the motor. I figure a generator needs to rated at least twice the capacity of the motor in order to overcome starting loads. I donated the planer to a local engine club as they have a sawmill made by the same company, seemed like a good pairing of equipment.

It is interesting how this thread showed up today, I just finished doing a small rewire on my emergency genset about an hour ago. i use a 15 kw diesel , a 2-71 detroit, 1200 rpm. this will take care of my whole house. I have propane hot water, range, and clothes dryer, but I came across this behemoth generator real cheap, otherwise I would have propane power on the genny as well. I have it outside, it rarely gets below -15 here, and have not had any issues with starting. i try to exercise it every month. I last needed it during hurricane sandy, it ran for a week straight, used a bit over 100 gallons of fuel. `

check battery voltage

Point noted. main takeaway from this, majority of the time, diodes, weather they are blocking, or stator , do not fail. most alternators go bad from worn out brushes.

This is for the benefit of anybody with a bare-bones charging system, I.E., one with no charge indicator or ammeter, this following test is quick and dirty and always works. while the engine is running, alternator spinning happily away, hold a steel tool to the bearing housing on the back of the alternator. if you have done everything correctly, a strong magnetic field will attract the for-said steel object. As any electrical generator /alternator depends on magnetism for operation, the presence of a strong attraction will indicate if you are charging. If the bearing housing does not suck fast the wrench or screwdriver you are holding, then you are not getting any charging from that alternator.

As with every thing else, cheap stuff isn't good, and good stuff isn't cheap. best advise in descending order: 1 Be born rich 2 Marry rich 3 Go into a co-op with a few others , buy the best mill you can . 4 Look for estate sales, bankruptcy sales, an so on. 5 Take it on the chin, man-up and buy a mill that will actually do more than make sawdust and steal your time. If you choose option 3, define in writing how the co-op will be dissolved, and assets redistributed. DISCLAIMER; I have a mill, it is a major investment, in time, space, and money. there are other hobbies that will give great satisfaction, with much less investment, if the mill you choose has money draining from your wallet, instead of filling it, then this is a hobby.

This stuff does an an incredible job. https://www.domyown.com/jt-eaton-nectus-2g-second-generation-rodenticide-716s-p-16865.html Had a large infestation. After traps failed, got the bait. End of problem.

torque reaction is opposite of engine rotation

the driver side is the side that lifts

I see reference to hemlock a few times in the preceding posts, there must be two types of hemlock, the stuff in PA grows big, but is one of the quickest things to rot when water gets on it. Most of the hemlock on the east coast has been infested with a little woolly bug, it sucks the life from them. if they are not already dead, they will be soon. I wonder if enough black locust is available? that stuff lasts. My father made some posts from black locust in the 70's, they still hold up.

Another thing, if the motor needs to freewheel in the non-energized position, you should use a motor spool.

A motor with integrated relief valves will have spring loaded, shim adjustable cartridge vales on both the input and the output lines of the motor. this is called a crossover relief, and bolts to the back of the motor housing. Some motors that are designed to run in both directions may have a third line connected to the case of the motor. This is the drain line. It must be connected to the tank, it takes pressure off of the shaft seals. a further explanation of the motor spool function is the A port and the B port are combined in the neutral position. So if you tried to use a motor spool on a cylinder, there would be no load holding function with the control assembly in the neutral position.

motor control spool has internal relief, which allows motor to have a 'soft' stop. If motor used with standard spool, case rupture can result due to momentum of driven load over rotating, causing motor to act as pump, pressure will spike, and the weakest thing in the system has to give. a standard spool can be used if back-to-back relief valves are plumbed into the motor lines, preferably right at the motor.

What does the Bureau of Land Management have to do with tires?

could be part of a shift fork

don't forget cooling. All of that extra fuel make heat. should the radiator be on the skimpy side as it is, upping the output will require increased cooling capacity as well. I am reminded of a piece I worked on a few years back, a forestry mower needed a new engine, old one was tired. found a low hour engine, did the swap. worked like gangbusters when the weather was around freezing. summer came along, tractor overheated. had radiator opened up, scrubbed out, re-installed it. still overheated. after a week of going around with this, I pulled the valve covers, and found the injectors on the replacement engine were a bit larger than what was in the original. swapped out the injectors, no more overheat.

IH was one of a few manufacturers that built trucks for the us govt. All of the manufacturers build to the same plan. If it was made by Kaiser, it had a 6602. If it was made by Mack, it had a 6602. If it was made by Studebaker, it had a 6602. if it was made by Oshkosh, it had a 6602. And so on. Can you imagine the confusion if you were the manager of the government motor pool, and in your inventory were parts for a dozen different versions of the same vehicle? How about if you were the mechanic and you needed to 'borrow' a carburetor from a shot-up or otherwise damaged truck to repair another? How many hoods would you lift to find the same engine? Government issue is just that, all built to the same plan.

https://www.tirerecappers.com/tires/farm-construction-tires/26575r16-retread-tri-rib-farm-tire/

agree on the good price. top speed is too slow to be safe in todays traffic. gas motor gets about 3 miles to the gallon. a few big towing outfits around me got their start with these, as soon as they can get something more modern, they do. army wrecker then goes to the back lot, and sits. can't sell them, somebody will then be looking for a slice of your business.

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Seriously, don't ruin what works. reverse is designed to maneuver the dozer into position for the next push. pulling backwards kills the idlers, track adjusters, puts undue strain on the track chains and is avoidable.

I had a bit of a deal getting them to track the excavators the correct way until I solved it by installing a small strobe on the dash, it is connected to the reverse alarm. Seams like pushing the sticks away from you to travel forward was not intuitive enough.

If one of my employees hitched on to a tree that large and pulled in reverse, I would fire them on the spot.