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supermechanic

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  1. A bit of further explanation; If the refrigerant in the system gets low, the pressure; and therefore temperature, of the refrigerant will also be lower. In a correctly operating system, the temperature of the refrigerant as it enters the evaporator will be right around the freezing temperature of water (32°F). As the air moves over the evaporator coils, the moisture in the air will condense on the coils. This condensation will drip off the coils, and go out the drain tubes. When the refrigerant is low, the temperature of the refrigerant at the beginning of the evaporator coils will be colder than the freezing point of water (less than 32°F). Because the coils are so cold, the condensation that forms on the coils will freeze. Then ice builds up on the coils, it will restrict the air flow through the evaporator. Because of the restriction, the refrigerant can't absorb as much heat from the the indoor air moving over the coils. This causes the refrigerant to boil later in the evaporator, which causes ice to form further along the coils. This situation continues to progress, until the whole evaporator is frozen. When this happens, the refrigerant will start to boil in the suction line. This cause the temperature of the suction line to drop, and just like in the evaporator, cause the condensation to freeze. Eventually the freezing works its way all the way back to the compressor, which is where the troubles really start. If allowed to operate in this condition for too long, liquid refrigerant can make its way back to the compressor. If this happens, the compressor can be"slugged" This means a 'slug' of liquid enters the compressor, and being a liquid, is incompressible. Damage follows. When the refrigerant level drops too low, the system stops working. So this problem will occur in a narrow zone, where the refrigerant is low, but not too low.
  2. Easiest thing to check is to look for frost on the suction line at the compressor. If you have frost and no cold at the vents, evaporator core is frozen.
  3. The box on the front of the Rumley is the cooling tower for the water. They had not figured out radiators yet.
  4. Years back I built a temporary blasting booth. I had a 10 by 10 metal fence panel dog cage that I lined with tarps and I used wood shipping pallets for the floor , tarp was also under the pallets. The cage was left open on one side for access. This worked fairly well for containment of blast media. I didn't have any neighbors complain about dust , due to the timing of my blasting coinciding with the farmer across the street disking.
  5. Three words to heed while blasting. Supplied air respirator. It' s amazing how little things (like being able to breathe) make life worthwhile.
  6. Check out a post from 10 years ago "td 5 chains" Also, I found my 40 year old berco catalog. Looks like everything smaller than a td-8 used 6 inch pitch chains. Berco also listed wear limits, new chain was actually 5 31/32, wear limit 6 1/8.
  7. Do not believe that I am knocking your project, I think small crawlers are cool. I have a 1918 Cletrac, a 1930ish Cat 20, a 1959 JD 420, a 1962 JD 1010, and two 1956 Allis HD 6's
  8. You will spend quite a bit more than 1000 for a set of tracks. Used? the machine is over 50 years old, all tracks are about the same age, tough find. I saw a thread on a different forum concerning the fitment of CTL rubber tracks for some of the smaller machines, it seems like a good idea. I wish I had bookmarked that thread, I believe I was searching for tracks for a JD 420 dozer. Next question, will you be putting a lot of time on this tractor, or is it a hobby piece, take it to shows and such? If you are just going to look at it, put your money into paint.
  9. Randy, make sure you do the thing with the spark plug on the frame rail. I have a 340 industrial that did exactly as you said, I cleaned out the fuel lines, carb jets, sediment bowl, tank screen , all of it. Still had the same problem, much more than 1/2 throttle, and it quit. threw some new sparkplugs in it,problem solved (or so I thought). A few days later, same thing. Long story, short version: New plugs worked until they got some soot on them, cleaned the plugs, worked again. Got suspicious of the ignition coil, replaced that, no problems since. I believe what was happening is the spark was not strong enough. So when the throttle opened up, and the cylinder pressure became too high, the spark would not jump the gap.
  10. If you are looking for a rear with deep gears, the military truck grave yards may have something for you. Bridge transport trucks, and m139 rocket transporters used something around 11 to 1 reduction gear sets. axle length hub to hub is over 9 feet, uses 10 bolt pattern budd wheels. these units are queer ducks, either the yard owner is happy to see them leave on the cheap, due to little demand, or they price themselves out of a sale.
  11. you need something similar to this. https://www.marchpump.com/resources/pump-plastic-metal/kynar-pumps/
  12. Get the crankcase vent out of the intake tract. A draft tube is fine.
  13. Is this unit outdoors? What about fine , blowing snow filling the intake housing a few months back, plugging the filter,. and maybe the oil sucked up during an exercise?
  14. "at least a couple turns) the oil filter was soaked, and had sucked oil up from the crank case vent" did you mean the air filter was soaked?
  15. As I understand it (as explained to me by the man who supplies all my fluids), electrolysis and corrosion occur mostly in systems that have a lot of dissolved air in the coolant solution. So , if you have a system that leaks, and requires frequent make-up fluid, or have a consumption problem, which also necessitates frequent addition of coolant, you will find that no manufacturers product will offer proper protection. The thing to remember, all coolants require replacement as the chemical additives are depleted. A good reading on the hydrometer only indicates freeze protection, you can have worn out fluid that won't freeze till -40. There is also a new trend towards the ELC (extended life coolant) that is marketed by Caterpillar. I have insufficient experience with this product to say whether it is the way to go. If you keep it fresh, keep it clean,and keep it full you should have very few problems.
  16. What do you run in the rest of your equipment? will you stock different coolants for different pieces? keep it simple, use what you have been using. If you currently are running all different colors/ types consider switching all your equipment to dexcool. did the dexcool switch about 7 years back . Best move ever. now all trucks, tractors, light trucks and associated equipment use the same stuff in the radiator. I get the 55 gallon drums of premix, less hassle with keeping solution strength up to specs. Also, when was the last time you mixed full strength antifreeze with distilled water, you most likely used what comes from the hose.
  17. one click and I found this https://www.herschelparts.com/aspx/prodDetail.aspx?id=16505
  18. And guar gum, what in blazes is a guar?
  19. Emulsified hydrogenated tropical oils, oooh yummy.
  20. I realize that I am late to this thread, but here is my contribution. Truck shops seem to have less of a markup on batteries. My local Mack dealer sells group 31 at half of what the tractor shop wants. It's the same battery, tractor dealer has fancy label on battery. Starting batteries are made in only a few manufacturing facilities, the difference between brands is often just the plastic sticker on the outside. As for the leaking battery case, Shoo Goo, Goop, and Sneaker Saver all work wonders on plastic battery cases. The stuff really sticks.
  21. Back in high school My best buddy had a 1972 Plymouth Fury Pursuit Special. Still had the spot lamps in the window posts, and a big number 14 on the roof. Cool thing I remember is the hand set throttle on the dash, also had a 160 mph speedometer. The trunk in that car was huge, like four bales of hay huge. (also fit three kegs of beer quite nicely)
  22. Do you have a photo of the inside of the plastic cover? I recall seeing a switch contact in some . (not the big contacts for the motor, a small springy brass/ bronze thing.)
  23. I have stored a 7.3 idi diesel for 20 years so far. I filled the engine completely with oil. I backed off the the rockers to seal the cylinders, then took out the glows, filled the cylinders as well. Plugged up any places where the oil wanted to run out. I don't have a need for it yet, so I can't tell you if my scheme was successful or not.
  24. Brakleen and other chlorinated solvents release or decompose into phosgene gas when exposed to intense ultraviolet radiation(think arc welding here). Phosgene is a chemical warfare agent. I will cause extreme discomfort even at very low concentration level in air. If you have chlorinated solvents, best use them outside.
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