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supermechanic

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Everything posted by supermechanic

  1. Side note: I believe the big block chevy was invented in order to turn people into mechanics.they sure do make plenty of power, but the valve train is fiddly. the ones I was responsible for seemed to eat camshafts about every 50,000 miles.
  2. most likely, all it needs is a new fan clutch. i had 7 of these in a commercial fleet, not firetrucks, but c30 4 speed big blocks. got rid of the last one about 7 years ago. at highway speed, cooling was ok. In slow traffic, watch out. if you can't hear the fan howling on a long, hard hill, that shows the fluid coupling is shot.
  3. I am of the opinion that the wrong lube is better than no lube. I have two of the 77 skil saws, one has always had a diamond blade on it for tile, paver bricks,and such. Has the 90w in the gear box. The other has a combo rip blade. rip saw has a small leak in the gear box, I filled up with nlgi 1 grease maybe ten years ago, no problems.
  4. The above is a bit of a 'make do' fix, but if attention is kept regarding the set screws, it should work.
  5. get a pulley to match the 1.25 shaft. pulley needs to have set screws. after setting up new pulley, tighten set screws, till they make a mark on the wisconsin's output shaft. Grind a small flat on the shaft where the set screws land. re install, tighten set screws till they take a good bite, you should be good. If you can run the pulley tight against the 1-7/16" step, using the threaded end and a nut, so much the better.
  6. Okay, my bad. block is dry sleeve. nevermind.
  7. not crazy. Find someone with a portable boring bar. all you need to do is pop the oil pan off, remove piston in that cylinder, get bored out for thin wall sleeve. then you hone to size after install,clean up real good, reassemble. not a totally terrible job, but still time consuming.
  8. i believe the hour meter is at 11,000 on my buddy's tractor. it dug a lot of basements, put in quite a few driveways.
  9. Hi mike. that chain looks to be about the same as the one on a jd 490e that my best buddy owns. 6 years or so, i have been trying to get him to commit to a full undercarriage replacement. 6 years he has been saying "maybe in the spring" already shortened chain by 1 link
  10. Probably a new holland engine. they were 6.6 and 7.8 liter. look at the block, possibly a CNH logo cast in to it somewhere. sturdy engine, used in stationary installations and marine, as well as agricultural and truck.
  11. This has been sitting here for more than a week, nobody has chimed in, so I will take a poke at it. Disclaimer,the last time I had an 8n was 1979, so I could be relying on memory a bit much. Begin by loosening the hood from the front cowl, set the hood back a bit. Gas tank fits pretty tight to the hood, so work around it as best as you can. Remove front cowl (radiator grill),or whatever you want to call it. Radiator comes out next, giving full access to the front of the engine. Original thermostat is inside the upper radiator hose.
  12. to reassemble, use a couple of ratcheting chain booms. easy peasey.
  13. Hello Mike. I hate to disagree with any one on an internet forum, as it usually starts a flame war. Original poster wants to change idlers, why peel back the entire track chain to the sprockets? I went to school on the heavy equipment dealership that I worked for, back when I was the mechanic shop supervisor. (34 years). They taught me a lot of tricks, one of them being not to disassemble anything beyond immediate need.
  14. here are some tips. break the track chain over the front idler, if you have access. the track chain needs support, else the rails may want to bend in when pounding on the pin. also, when the chain is on the idler it helps keep it steady. also, leave the track shoe (pad, grouser, whatever you want to call it) installed, as it will also keep the chain rails aligned.
  15. usually a two person job. hammer-swinger and helper. helper holds the pin driving bar. bar has a handle on it to keep hands and fingers out of the impact zone.
  16. https://www.mcfeelys.com/3-8-16-x-5-8-in-solid-brass-threaded-inserts-for-hard-wood-qty-10.html
  17. I am not a 2-stroke genius, but I have been around these finicky motors long enough to know that 90 psi is just about 1/2 of what is needed. do a compression check after pouring a little bit of STP, Motor Honey , or Lucas in the cylinder. I will bet the numbers come up significantly on the wet compression check.
  18. I did the very same thing to an 8n in 1979. at that time the new 'square' coil was like $90. western auto sold round coils for about $8.50 This 8n of yours wouldn't have a peculiar clunk in the transmission, would it? could be the same one.
  19. I remember a farmer across the valley from me who used to "treat" his machinery to a coat of shellac every fall. when his farm got broken up for cookie-cutter mcmansions, his stuff got auctioned off. Occasionally, a part of his collection surfaces, easily identified by the 'protective' coating.
  20. Ditto on the supplied air respirator. Urethane paints are toxic on the order of an insecticide. true story, \ At the age of 18 or so,I had to have a boat. 18 year olds have no money. Boat was a real roach. !7 foot tri-hull, bow rider of unknown manufacture, probably 25 years old, or more. After a few weeks of sanding and laying on fiberglass resin, I was ready to paint. I had boat upside down on trestles in the yard, in the shade of a huge maple tree. After carefully measuring the reducer, catalyst, and paint, I mixed it up , and began spraying. First two coats went on with out a problem, I mixed up another batch after letting the fog coat and full wet coat set a bit. May be an hour had passed, and I was ready to lay on a final coat. In the mean time, the wind had shifted a bit, unknown to me. Shortly after i began my last spraying, a cloud of paint enveloped the maple tree. Insects of every type rained down on my freshly painted boat, not just a few, but thousands. My fresh paint was more effective at trapping bugs than any sticky-tape bug trap ever invented. Boat ended up getting an unintended wet sanding and two more coats of paint. The effectiveness of that paint to instantly kill every living thing on or in that tree still amazes me to this day.
  21. It was already broke. Anything you do is better than leaving it as it was.
  22. Ace, I believe you have the correct diagnosis, "vacuum leak". The most important thing to keep in mind here is the fact that the crank case is part of the fuel/air manifold. The underside of the piston does the pumping for the induction air. The most expedient repair is replacing the carb with an adjustable one, in order to 'fatten up' the mixture at idle, if indeed the shaft seals or case gaskets are passing outside air. ultimately, a leaking shaft seal will require replacement. For most folks, this deep of a disassembly on a saw is beyond their level of comfort, also, special fixtures and pullers may be needed. I have a lot of time invested in two-cycle engines, they can be temperamental when not set just right.
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