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Everything posted by supermechanic

  1. Ditto on air brakes. Exam wants specific numbers, I.E., air pressures and leak-down rates.
  2. As for finishing, 98 percent of a paint job is getting a smooth surface to paint. Fill, sand, fill, sand,fill, sand, and so on.
  3. sandblasting has a nasty effect on large , smooth panels ( think hood, roof, doors). you may find the formerly flat surface now buckled or rippled. blast should be confined to small areas otherwise not accessible to sandpaper.
  4. If you have a big stationary tank that supplies your appliances, It can be adapted to run the genset as well. Advantage here is always fresh fuel. Propane does not degrade in storage. Usually, people make sure the 500 gallon tank is always at least 1/4 full, so you do not need to worry about emergency fuel. Downside is minimal. If the generator is the only thing you have that needs propane, not as handy. Running around in an ice storm looking for bar-b-que tanks is a joke. Engine runs the same on either fuel, just uses about 1/5 more propane as compared to gasoline .
  5. My father purchased a Briggs and Stratton about 7 years back, is has proved a worthy unit. Came with a float charger to keep the battery topped. Use ethanol-free fuel, and run the carb dry after each use. It gets used about 2-3 times a year, never a problem.
  6. Oak will not last if it is in the weather. maybe 7 years at best. Did one of my trailers in locust , lasted about 15 years. Did one deck-over in Apitong, nice wood, but really expensive. Only been on 5 years now, still looks good. cca southern pine is a good choice, as long as extreme point loads are avoided.
  7. Click it and it disappears. Linkie no workie.
  8. if you already have brand x stay with it. If you need direction, I say buy Milwaukee. Had a Lincoln, didn't last. The new Li-ion batteries have the old ni-cad stuff beat. So if you have a ni-cad dewalt get the new milwaukee, you will be glad you did. I typically use a case of grease per week, every week.
  9. one might think the larger the diameter, the more surface area to grip with, so less tension for same effect. i say change it to something larger and see if this theory holds true.
  10. Mellings and a few others will make custom liners. here is a link for mellings. https://www.melling.com/contract-manufacturing/cylinder-sleeves/
  11. I have one in my shop, it works well for chipper knives. Paid 500 for it years ago.
  12. "Where do they get all the stuff they drag into these places!" Mice can conjure fluff from thin air. Those who failed at this did not live to breed.
  13. ITP/ BERCO book lists single flange roller Pn. IN-2274c, and double flange roller, Pn. IN-2275c. These fit TD 18 &18a, TD 20 &20a, 250 loader series B Also td20c and 250c loader. after a serial break, the chain pitch was increased to 8.5", but the rollers stayed the same. IHC part numbers are 604922c92, single flange, 604923c92, double flange.
  14. HERE IS AN INTERESTING FACT CONCERNING MULBERRY TREES. (damn caps lock) In fall, the leaves don't color, they just brown a bit, then on the morning of the day of the first frost, as the sun warms up the leaves, all of the leaves drop at once.
  15. I can't be sure about what you have, but in one case I found the only connection was a low side port built in the rear surface of the compressor, had a knurled cap over it.
  16. JASS 1660 - SUPERMECHANIC is missing the "1" on the front of his price estimate, isn't he. That's HYPERMAX'S Cummins-Killer. It's ALL over their website. Individually priced, 21,135 retails 18,000 on sale 11,900 https://www.gohypermax.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=ac1c22c9-c515-4b4a-82cc-8df2dccc5adb
  17. "Dad did some sampling of the JD Break-in oil and was not overly impressed. " What was there to be impressed about? A break-in oil is/was designed to have no anti-friction metallic salts added, the zinc and other stuff will go to the hottest part of the engine, I.E. the piston rings. If the rings don't seat correctly (wear in) you will have an oil burner. Lack of these elements is what make a break-in oil what it is. So the cheapest, no additive oil is what was/is considered break in oil. In modern times, the surface finish of the various parts has been made much finer, thus negating the need for special oils. But, if you are assembling with 1960's machining tolerances, the proper oil is needed. There is also a method of loading and cycling the newly rebuilt engine to maximise the effectiveness of the break in process.
  18. possibly not, but that is also about $20k, maybe more. the 7.3 has good bones, the engineers at IHC over built this one, as evidenced by the photos of the build above. I don't know if these mechanical injection engines need to have anything done to the bottom end, but it would not surprise me if they were left stock.
  19. 7.3,the power joke. you will never be the first one to the end of the block, but the truck will fall apart long before the engine is worn out.
  20. runs like a top? so it spins in circles, and eventually falls over.
  21. Sounds like there is still some dirt in there. Put the palm of your hand over the inlet of the carb. Then have someone crank the starter. If you don't get fuel in your hand after a few revolutions, you need to go back and look for the obstruction.
  22. Alternate applications of penetrating oil and heat, plus the advice from the above post.
  23. my buddy; "hey, I've got a really neat little binder that would feel right at home at your place." me; "I was not aware that I needed another tractor." my buddy; "the first step in treating your condition is to admit it exists".
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