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Absent Minded Farmer

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Everything posted by Absent Minded Farmer

  1. That's a $20 - $75 plow around here. Don't see them bring much more elsewhere. Mike
  2. Looks like a great find! You have to own nearly all the wheatland IH's in Canada by now, eh? Mike
  3. The 10-20 & Nuffie look great together. Also curious about the winch. Almost looks like an early Hyster. Mike
  4. Oddly enough, the pics in your first post did not show. Sledgehammer's got it. Two way Cub plow. Mike
  5. If that's EP in front of 783(?), it's most likely Oliver. Lots of EPxxxx numbers on my Plowmaster. Mike
  6. Would love to find a '25 or '26 Regular on steel. Just don't seem to be any in this area anymore. Mike
  7. The part number is 668957R11. The frame is about half the value of the baler on a good auction day. The knotter stack comes out of the trip clutch. You have to disconnect the shaft that drops down to the needle yoke, unbolt the knotter frames, unbolt the packer relief anchor support from the outer knotter shaft bearing support, then you should be able to grab it by the bearing support & pull it toward you. That should get the assembly off. As you take everything off, make sure everything stays in order. That's a lot of parts & a lot of shim washers tucked in there. When you get the offending frame off, you have to gut it. The only thing the frame comes with is a bushing. I recommend welding the piece back on. Have one welded on mine in the exact same spot yours broke. Works fine. Though I didn't weld it so that's why it holds Lol! There are four salvage machines listed on Tractorhouse. Every once & a while a used or NOS complete assembly will float across eBay. Be sure to get the knotter service manual. I know I'm forgetting a couple steps & it takes a little monkeying with the trip dog to get it to line up in the clutch upon reassembly. Been a few years since I had mine apart.... like 50 times. >:v( Should you need the manual right away, go to the CaseIH technical publications store. You can buy it & download as a .pdf it all in one fell swoop. Mike
  8. That Case pull type looks like an F2. Too small for an A6. Interesting to note, it looks like it's PTO drive & has a power unit. Strange. Mike
  9. I saw that too. There were a few tractors at that auction that went for stupid money. No idea what brought it on. Shill bidders?? On a different note, I was watching a different auction & a really nice All Crop 66 brought $150. Mike
  10. Early on, I wasn't fussy at all about how the plow was set up. Got a little more serious about it after turning my nice flat hay field into a rolling ocean with broad, arcing waves. The next time the plow touched the soil was going to be different & it was. My experience with it is, the plow & the tractor need to be matched to each other. There are several adjustments between the two that apply to the center of draft alone. Then (for lack of better terms), adjust the plow's pitch, yaw & roll. Then I made more fine tuning adjustments when in the field. Once that whole mess was straightened out, I had a plow! That H even pulled it a little better & the Ollie two bottom would glide along like a duck through water. Minus the one clay patch, ten acres of combine corn stubble went under, with the tractor in 4th & a little better than half throttle. Now if I could just learn to plow straight!! Mike
  11. Wegner's has both 130's & 230's listed. Mike
  12. There are three 130's listed on Tractorhouse under dismantled machines. One in Oregon, one in Pennsylvania & one in New York. Mike
  13. Here you go. Can't get it flat as the latching mechanism in the IH binder is rusted tight. Mike
  14. Indeed I do. PN 495458R1 is a stationary shear blade for the right rear bale chamber side. The knife goes on the plunger & is PN 11437PC. Mike
  15. Glad you hit the like button. It reminded me to update this post. That frassin' battery leaked again! Leaked from that seam where the top cover connects to the rest of it & leaked out the vent. Don't know what in the heck is going on, but I think a call to the dealership is in order for tomorrow. Mike
  16. Everything checked out. I don't mind doing it again, practice is a good thing. Mike
  17. It should be ok? The clutch & TA were adjusted last fall & it hasn't seen much use since. Everything seems strong so far. Also don't have to wait forever for the gears to wind down before shifting. Now that I think of it, I'll grab the book & go over things again just in case. Mike
  18. Went over the regulator. Cleaned up the points & set it back to original air gaps. The charging is up to 13.85v & the mA went down to 92. I think if I change out the gauge that's reading a slight discharge, even with the battery disconnected, that might solve the rest of the problem. Was just out on the road giving the TA & clutch a workout after adjustments there. We'll see if there's a leak again. Mike
  19. Gave it a half turn & it was better. Gave it another half & it's good as new. Did a brake test in 4th TA & DD with no slippage & no other issues. Thanks to you & the others for the info. Mike
  20. How do I best adjust the clutch & TA on my 560 to account for wear? It's just getting to the point where it's putting up a little resistance when pulling it out of gear & takes a little extra longer for the gears to stop before I can put it into gear. It wasn't like that when I got it. It was the only 60 series I've been on that didn't give you time enough to have a coffee while waiting to engage a gear. Mike
  21. Looks like I have my afternoon plan then. At least the weather is nice. Mike
  22. I had exchanged batteries back in the spring due to a leak from the same area. Not so sold on the leaky seal idea, but certainly not impossible. Mike
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