KWRB

I like this thread. It reminds me of my childhood. How many alphorn factories do you think there are? Just one? I visited one the first time I ever went to Switzerland when I was 17. Somewhere there's a picture of me trying to play it. Also in German class, we sang and danced to German folk music. I know it's not identical, but this reminds me of that and how much fun I had. I was the best of the boys and all the girls wanted to be my partner. I loved it. I peaked too soon. Sigh...

I like them too. But mostly 43, 45 and 4786's!! I've never farmed with any of them, so I can't quite weigh in on that, but I think non Snoopy 88's are ugly. I used to think 2+2's were ugly too, until I did my homework and learned to appreciate just how revolutionary they were. Now, they get a pass and I appreciate them. But the others are kinda blah. Blasphemy? Do I need to surrender my login credentials?

There are conflicting opinions on "paint". First off, DO NO USE PAINT. Paint will not stand up to gear oil. The inside will do fine without any coating due to oil splash. With that said, IH did coat the insides of the transmission, just not with paint. The prevailing opinion is that the product used was "Glyptal". I'm very confident that the purpose of this was to prevent corrosion after casting, but before the paint (outside) and oil (inside) to protect the surfaces from rust due to air moisture. Being that it was coated (dipped per DrEvil) for manufacturing purposes, your doing so is purely optional. With that said, I repainted the inner portion of my transmission cover just recently, because it had been blasted clean during sandblasting and I didn't have the courage to leave it bare. I got to thinking all kinds of crazy things like "what happens when I die and the tractor sits for a long time? Will the oil migrate away and it get rusty? Will the rust wreck my new bearings? Will my heirs scrap it if the transmission gets destroyed?" Yeah, I'm a headcase. As for damage spots, the biggest one I've seen is the housing cracking below the bull gears. I'm told that it happens when a bull gear loses a tooth. Eventually the lost tooth gets pinched between the gear and the housing. Hardened steel versus cast iron -the housing breaks. The only other thing I can think of, is to take a look at the threads and look for evidence of over tightening. Maybe the fill and drain holes? They've probably had the most mileage on the threads. Another thing is the cover. My cover was pretty pitted from about seventy years of sitting outside. Also, they wear quickly down to bare cast iron under operators' boots. Anyway, I had that wear filled somewhat before painting my cover. I also boogered up the removal of the brake pawl pin. Still have to fix that. Also, make sure you don't put your gears back on the shaft backwards. It's frustrating and might make you walk away for a week! Last thing I struggled with was re-riveting the reverse gear. Very hard to buck the backside of the rivet on the shaft to reassemble. More may come to me yet. Message me with questions. I'm restoring my C from back to front and just finished the transmission.

Geez. Thank God. I agree you should be all over that utility company until you're convinced they know exactly what caused it and rectify it. Send emails -traceable if something goes awry later if they blow you off. I had to do that with a utility company here who has a gas transmission line and easement through my property. I told them to send me a letter acknowledging their rectifying the problem, signed, and I wouldn't sue them. Now if something happens I have written evidence that they were aware of it in the past and disregarded it. I think they're all overstretched and only grease the squeakiest wheels (I was gonna say "put out the hottest fires" but...). It doesn't make the individual employees bad people, but you've got be a pain sometimes to get problems fixed. Sad but true.

That's how I quit tobacco. Bounced on a gopher hole, swallowed a bunch of cope, and blew chow

Of course it could have only 810 miles and still be totally rotted out, if driven in winter.

I was just thinking about a similar story the other day when you were mentioning Tempos. My first car was a 1994 Tempo that in its previous life had hit a whole flock of deer at once. (Herd, I know. But to see the car, I think they came from the sky). It was two colors, maroon and gray. The gray parts came from a Topaz, so I had a "chrome" (painted plastic) Topaz grille instead of the color keyed Tempo grille. The previous owners were vain enough to take the "Topaz" emblem off the grille, which was hilarious because the car was beat to snot and you could still read "TOPAZ" from the sun fading all around the letters. I put probably a $500 sound system into it with a 6 disc changer in the trunk and hand-me-down amplifier and subwoofer. I was COOL. Automatic seat belts that still required the lap belts be fastened by hand for fear of decapitation or so I was told (so what's the point of the automatic shoulder belt?), Cruise control, no AC, fuzzy dice, NY-made Little Trees Black Ice air freshener, Mustang Key Ring (because you know, Ford Tempo 😆). Best of all, the carved cobra head that I found in a box of junk at a yard sale that I turned into a hood ornament (bumper ornament). It was the Snakemobile and I repeat, I. Was. COOL. It was total piece of junk and life was amazing. I could go places, and girls wanted rides. No one seemed to notice or care that it was a pile of junk!

Yes! There is! There are really crappy -even counterfeit- "equivalent" bearings on the web from no-name sellers. I would advise against buying a bearing from anyone without the reputation of a name behind them. With that said, dealer bearings ARE overpriced and they're all made by someone else -an actual bearing manufacturer- anyway. Further, IH used almost all standard sized bearings in that era, so interchangeable bearings are usually pretty straightforward. I have several interchange guides I use to find the appropriate Timken, NTN, SKF, etc. There's nothing more annoying than buying a dealer part only to see the manufacturer's name and part number on it, and realize the exact bearing could have been gotten cheaper. Send me the IH part numbers of the bearings you may want to replace and I'll see what I can find in the interchanges. Either PM me or use the "quote" reply in this thread.

I guess I should look closer at my H transmission!! 😁

Loop antenna. But yes, they are reading your brain waves too. The ********.

Can you take a picture of the nut? I'm confused as the what needs this elaborate tool? It must be different than a C or H, or I'm misremembering something.

Must be a repair shop.

Where is this?

I enjoyed flying in New England and seeing all the rock walls in the woods and imagining what that looked like when it was all farm. We have them here too. A lot of NY's farms were abandoned all at once around 1920 or something. I attended a lecture by the State DEC Forester, and he explained how our forests are NOT exactly healthy just because abandoned crop and pasture land if no they appear dense and green. If not managed for diversity in and and species, the land will grow monoculture "forests" that all grow up and die at the same time. My woods here are about 30-40 years I think, from massive die off.

It's not like a muffler. A muffler reduces sounds by mixing up sound waves. Sort of like active sound cancelling generates opposite phase sine/cosine waves that cancel each other, a muffler accomplishes that task less precisely by just bouncing the sound around and off walls (baffles). All of the particulate that enters the muffler, exits the muffler. Also the flow rate in, is the same as the flow rate out. So the muffler is a poor analogy in support of a mask