acem Posted August 16 Posted August 16 I often hear how 5 gallons over full helps some problems by covering up seals. How much is too much? I expect there are some places it might leak out. Didn't the early x06 tractors hold less than the later 56 through 86 tractors? Quote
Matt Kirsch Posted August 16 Posted August 16 There's exactly ONE SPECIFIC situation that 5 gallons over full acts as a band-aid for. Irks me to no end when it's touted as a cure-all for everything from hard steering to the gum disease known as gingivitis. Flat tire? Fill the hytran 5 gallons over full! Well, I suppose the pain from the extra $125 or whatever a pail of hytran costs now will make you forget about any of your own physical ailments, so it's kind of a cure-all for gingivitis 😁 It never fixes any other problem aside from that one leaking o-ring on the suction side. Does the extra 5 gallons hurt anything? No. It's extra thermal mass that helps dissipate heat when you're using the hydraulics heavily, such as running an orbit motor. How much is too much is a good question. Never gave it a thought, but now I'd imagine the maximum is one quart before it starts running out of odd places. I don't think there's a "too much" that would cause damage to the tractor. Need to account for expansion as the fluid heats up too. 3 Quote
Chester5732 Posted August 16 Posted August 16 1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said: It never fixes any other problem aside from that one leaking o-ring on the suction side. And it doesn’t even fix that problem. It just covers it up. 2 Quote
Rick G. Posted August 16 Posted August 16 I always kept my Hytran fluid level on my 1456s, 1066, 1466, and 1086 right on the full marks on the dipsticks. Never had a problem with any of them. 1 Quote
HydroTek Posted August 16 Posted August 16 Those tractors barely notice 5 extra gallons The low mark -- where the stick says add one gallon -- yeah , that's a lie '86 series is common for the stop on the stick to get pushed up -- then reads low with 5 gal over -- the oil is just about to the top of the pto shaft -- remove the top link cover -- could easily put another 5 in there 1 1 Quote
brahamfireman Posted August 17 Posted August 17 11 hours ago, HydroTek said: Those tractors barely notice 5 extra gallons The low mark -- where the stick says add one gallon -- yeah , that's a lie '86 series is common for the stop on the stick to get pushed up -- then reads low with 5 gal over -- the oil is just about to the top of the pto shaft -- remove the top link cover -- could easily put another 5 in there And if the tractor spends any time at an angle, the standard fill mark will starve axle bearings. If it's low, they starve real fast. 5 gallons over full is just a good practice. 1 Quote
Sparky Posted August 17 Posted August 17 11 hours ago, brahamfireman said: And if the tractor spends any time at an angle, the standard fill mark will starve axle bearings. If it's low, they starve real fast. 5 gallons over full is just a good practice. Well, we aint exactly running the Indy 500 with them, either. I also get so tired of hearing guys yell, run it 5 gallons over! The best ones are the guys that swear that IH even said to do it...they never said such a thing. Travis 2 Quote
snoshoe Posted August 17 Posted August 17 43 minutes ago, Sparky said: Well, we aint exactly running the Indy 500 with them, either. I also get so tired of hearing guys yell, run it 5 gallons over! The best ones are the guys that swear that IH even said to do it...they never said such a thing. Travis Can mildly argue that. The first time I heard the advice was my first year at the dealership. It came from an instructor at the Hicory Hill training center. But only as a test not a cure. Problem with it in practice was that it usually proved you had an airleak but didn't tell you where. The 5 gal could mask pump shaft seal or jumper tube just as well as the targeted oring. Quote
whweldit Posted August 17 Posted August 17 when I bought my cx90 and loader dealer showed me where on dipstick the hyd oil was. Said we always put 5 gallons extra in when installing loader. Said I would never have to worry about oil not being where it should be. That was in 1999 and I have never had a problem. Quote
acem Posted August 17 Author Posted August 17 I have a training guide for the 86 series closed center hydraulics system. One of the steps in troubleshooting is the fill the transmission 5 gallons over full. If the hydraulics are working right it should work good at 10 gallons low. It can help you run until you have time to money repair. Quote
dale560 Posted August 18 Posted August 18 It takes 10 or really 15 gals overfill to cover the filter intake oring. 1 Quote
acem Posted August 18 Author Posted August 18 But at what level does it become a problem? I realize the higher oil level will use some extra energy. I'm thinking about leaking out some seal or something that's not designed for the fluid to be that high. I'd like to fix the steering issue with my 1066 but never seem to have time. If I could help it out with some extra fluid it would help me get by. Happens occasionally with other tractors too. Quote
axial_al Posted August 18 Posted August 18 I was told that the differential ring gear ran in oil at five over. Is that true? Quote
HydroTek Posted August 18 Posted August 18 1 hour ago, axial_al said: I was told that the differential ring gear ran in oil at five over. Is that true? No park on concrete or level ground and remove the top link cover -- take a look Quote
acem Posted August 18 Author Posted August 18 The ring gear is in the oil on a 4366. But it's way fuller than a 1066 style. Quote
acem Posted August 18 Author Posted August 18 In fact. On the front axle of the 4366, the level plug is in the 'top link cover'. The top link cover on the front axle is actually where the hydraulic suction line goes into the axle. The rear axle oil level is the same I believe. If we filled a 1066 that full it would never have to prime a hydraulic pump. Might help the closed center 86 series too. Quote
ole 815 Posted August 18 Posted August 18 20 hours ago, dale560 said: It takes 10 or really 15 gals overfill to cover the filter intake oring. Yep^ I got a pic of dipstick and the oring between ta housing and rear housing. Add mark is jus above that oring, full is prolly 1/2" above it. 706 if it matters. Cant post pic.....arrrrrg Quote
snoshoe Posted August 18 Posted August 18 27 minutes ago, ole 815 said: Yep^ I got a pic of dipstick and the oring between ta housing and rear housing. Add mark is jus above that oring, full is prolly 1/2" above it. 706 if it matters. Cant post pic.....arrrrrg Not sure I'm ready for this but here goes. The thickness of the gasket between housings creates a mini reservoir between housings. It doesn't take much of a suction leak to draw the oil out of there allowing it to draw air down from the top. Quote
HydroTek Posted August 19 Posted August 19 Yup, true that ... once the oring starts leaking that small area and the gasket is all that is keeping air out of the suction Quote
dale560 Posted August 19 Posted August 19 21 hours ago, snoshoe said: Not sure I'm ready for this but here goes. The thickness of the gasket between housings creates a mini reservoir between housings. It doesn't take much of a suction leak to draw the oil out of there allowing it to draw air down from the top. My oring I always refer to is the seal on suction pipe on top side of filter housing. It takes a bit of oil to cover that tube. Quote
snoshoe Posted August 19 Posted August 19 19 minutes ago, dale560 said: My oring I always refer to is the seal on suction pipe on top side of filter housing. It takes a bit of oil to cover that tube. I have realized that when you've posted before. The 5 gal over was to test the one between housings. The problem was it also affected the two most likely leaks as well. The jumper tube and pump shaft seal. In all honesty I cannot recall ever having a problem with the one you mention. Obviously you have. The jumper tube is almost always improper installation and shaft seal from worn pump. Quote
dale560 Posted August 19 Posted August 19 46 minutes ago, snoshoe said: I have realized that when you've posted before. The 5 gal over was to test the one between housings. The problem was it also affected the two most likely leaks as well. The jumper tube and pump shaft seal. In all honesty I cannot recall ever having a problem with the one you mention. Obviously you have. The jumper tube is almost always improper installation and shaft seal from worn pump. Every tractor that won’t pump oil. The first thing is change every seal on the pickup tube and filters. Dad was a fanatic and wouldn’t let you take cover off with wing nuts on a 66 series and newer. He would make you take the entire cover off and reseal everything with good gaskets. You usually had really good hydraulics when you cleaned and replaced the pickup tube and all the other seals. While you had pto out weld tube and replace seals also. When working on a ta it was just standard at the end to replace all this stuff while oil was drained. Like I said my dad was full on crazy about not taking the easy access cover off once it was sealed. You had to make sure all bolt holes were even and flat like you mentioned on here before. 1 Quote
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