Sparky

If any of your cables came off the wall of an auto parts store, they aren't anywhere big enough. Travis

Just curious....What size are those new battery cables? Travis

Check your battery voltage. Should be minimum of 12.6 volts. If they aren't up there, perform a parasitic draw test... pretty simple on an older tractor like this. Depending on how cold it is, you may need to plug in a block heater for a couple of hours to make your tractor want to start...also if it's really cold there, and you have straight 30wt oil in the crank case...it's going to crank slow unless you get things heated up. Travis

K&M and Hy-Capacity. Best companies for seat suspensions and seats. I use them regularly. Travis

That's a good idea, too. Also, although I put down "bottom of the barrel" parts stores....it is just a C. Brakes are pretty hard to screw up on a tractor like that. Travis

In my experience.... Steiners, All States Ag Parts, A&I are mostly bottom of the barrel.... CIH may be top of the line, maybe not. Look for Hy-Capacity, Ag Parts, Bates...if you want a good value. Do your research.... Travis

That list leaves out the flame cut weights, but yes, that's a pretty much complete list of IH suitcase weights that I know of. Travis

There's at least 5 or 6 different factory IH 100 lb weights. Large hand hole, small hand hole, angle iron hole, no angle iron hole, and the latest style. All have part numbers on them to tell the difference, and if you're really good you can find the mold number on some of them to really match them up. Travis

I'm not a fan of rebuilt/reman injectors...I've had too many 'quality control' issues with them. I prefer to have my original injectors rebuilt if I can. Sometimes, a guy has to improvise, though. Travis.

Well...I'd definitely pull the injectors and have them checked. Yes, not using a tractor hard enough will cause fuel slobber, but injectors (especially on those 361-407's) in good shape is imperative. Travis

Most likely the injectors... If you had the injectors out, why didn't you have them checked/rebuilt? Travis

If you go with the original style weight bracket, you're going to need the spacer blocks, too.... Travis

No way in h*ll did he leave the float out and it ran.... Travis

They only need to be torqued 400-500 ft lbs...any 3/4" drive breaker bar should be able to handle that just fine. Travis

3/4" drive socket. The OTC that I have from wayyyyy back when looks pretty thin, but handles the 400-500lb ft of torque from a 4-foot cheater pipe. The one on the left is the OTC. The one on the right is a Snap-On. Travis