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Everything posted by Sparky

  1. How else do you tighten the wedge bolt on a wheel with the casting on the inside rib, and a full wheel of weights? It's only 400-500 ft lbs, not allllll that you can give'er..... Travis
  2. This is the set up that I'm looking for. Looks handy as heck. Travis
  3. Yep. Run it at PTO speed. Impossible to say what happened to the yoke, really. Could have cracked earlier and finally gave out. Travis
  4. Check the part #'s on the weights...there are a few different #'s, all just a little different than the next. Travis
  5. Yep, that's normal for Tri-stripe tractors with PFC hydraulics. Travis
  6. I have...plenty. But just because of age/wear... Anyway. The correct belt for a York compressor is a 9395 Gates....I put on 9395HD belts. They work well. Also....York compressors don't work well, nor are designed to operate well below 1250 rpm....most tractors I've seen have a decal telling you that. Travis
  7. Good luck. I suppose it could be done, but why would you do it? Travis
  8. No, no....not on the bearing. Between the hub and wheel...still not a good idea at all. Grind the steering stop for clearance and move on. I know that even a popular tractor ""restorer"" does the same... Travis
  9. The 13.6-38 size wasn't even around when the M's were new... Travis
  10. As far as three-point disc mower...9ft should be fine on a 9 or 10, weight wise, anyway. Customer of mine bought a 10 foot Kuhn and had it on he 1066....has had me put weights on front for him. Needs weight on the wheels for when he turns, though. Travis
  11. I've never found it difficult to seal a 400 series valve cover with a cork gasket. Travis
  12. In my experience...the part # is always there, unless it's an aftermarket weight...but the part # is always there on IH weights...sometimes it can be really difficult to locate. I usually scrub them down with soapy water on the front and back side if the # isn't obvious. Travis
  13. This is the list I have...not sure if there is anything else to add. 6818D solid outside cast 6818DA solid center cast 366 109 R1 Split for clamp wheels 366 109 R2 Split for clamp wheels nicer cast 400 078 R1 Split for wedge lock wheels and 30'' 32'' wheatland wheels 400 078 R2 Split for wedge lock wheels more open center for 4'' axle( 1566, 5288, 5488) Travis
  14. I agree with Randy....get the hood decals from CaseIH....they are the correct looking ones. Travis
  15. Sounds like the same problem exhaust manifolds have on small block Chevy engines. The ones braced between the ports are great if you can find them. Otherwise gotta use a manifold spreader to install them. Travis
  16. 400-500 ft/lbs if I remember correctly. Travis
  17. Seriously? Hate to call you guys out, but did that really work? What happened to using a breaker bar? Travis
  18. The OTC socket doesn't look as tough as my Snap-on socket.... Anyway...the OTC socket is #328. Pretty sure it's not even available anymore. Travis
  19. It's not missing squat if you want to go narrow.... Travis
  20. Looks to me like there's plenty of room to move around. Travis
  21. It's funny...as many of these tractors that I've torn apart, I've never really looked that close at these. The tractor these are needing replaced on are just too far gone, and someone has tried to finaggle something out of heater hose and washers it looks like. It's quite the mess, and on top of that, whoever filled it with fuel was pretty messy, too as everything under the tank is "moist", lol. I may have to remove a good one out of another tractor to see what I can come up with. I use McMaster Carr for a lot of stuff, but have never ran across the bushings that Andrew posted, so maybe we hit on something there. Thanks for all the help, guys. Travis
  22. The platform isomounts are a whole lot easier to make compared to these, I believe. Travis
  23. If I'm looking these up correctly, the part number is 536648R1 and it takes eight of them at $33.80 each... Now, I'm all for using the dealer for parts like this, but this price seems a little much for a bushing, even if they will last 50 years. I have a 1066 that has bushings that are just completely done for. I figure a salvage yard will laugh at me if I asked for them. Anybody have a good source or a better idea? Thanks Travis
  24. ""Break-in oil"" Does anyone really know if this is a thing? Can you prove it other than the label says that it is? As far as the first oil change, I run the oil I'm always going to use and change it at about halfway to a normal oil change interval. Travis
  25. Well, dang it...I don't have an 886 with a 360 close to take a pic of. Hopefully someone else will chime in. Travis
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