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Everything posted by Sparky

  1. Sparky

    1086 blower

    Buy the correct solenoid or you'll be doing it again.... Prestolite from Hy-Capacity or the updated solenoid from your CaseIH parts counter. Travis
  2. Depends on what you call the "draft control" lever. The draft control lever is the one labeled "heavy" and "light" on both ends of the gate. That lever should be all the way on "heavy" for normal use of the three-point. The inside control lever should not be put all the way down or forward in the "run" position as this will shut off, or at least slow down your hydraulic remotes. As far as the dipstick being ground off....simply install the dipstick perpendicular to the tractor and it's almost impossible for this to happen. It's simply been rubbed on a shaft or gear...more common than you think. Hope this helps. Travis
  3. Just looked them up...they are a little higher priced, now, but still worth it. They come with instructions. Easy peasy to do. HH1286905 is the part number through Hy-Capacity. Travis
  4. Put the Magnum mounts in when you replace them...same price, better built. Travis
  5. Except on later pto's....on those pto pressure is what keeps the lever engaged. Travis.
  6. Looks fine to me. I'm assuming that your pto engages by pushing the spool down into the pto unit? If it does, your problem most likely is low pressure. Travis
  7. Same wet sleeve setup...so yes. The coolant filter isn't a cure all. Changing the coolant every now and then will do just as much good as the coolant filter will. Travis
  8. Hy-cap has the kit you want that has the tapered pin that fits in the axle, but still utilizes the old school pin style end on the cylinder. Travis
  9. Just to verify that it actually is the belt and not something else, gently spray the belt with soapy water while the engine is running. If the squeak goes away, you know it's a belt or pulley. Travis
  10. 9.5-15 11L-15 10.00-16 All pretty common....You can even go skinnier like 7.50-16 or so, but those sizes seem to be the most popular, even with 34's (even though some people will tell you they aren't). Nothing was a "factory" size...it was simply what the dealer or original owner ordered it with, so you're pretty much open to whatever you like. Travis
  11. Even my little armpit of Iowa has an Oreilly's, Napa, and Carquest...that Murray 59010 is readily available there. Travis
  12. Murray 59010 is a 30 foot roll of insulation tape. If you were close by, I'd sell you a few feet of it. Travis
  13. New insulation tape. Travis
  14. "Original Hy-Tran"......You probably should offer up some proof of what it actually is. Travis
  15. Those rear stands aren't as heavy as I'd like. They would work for holding the main center section of the rear housing after you've taken every thing off, but I don't trust them to holding up a rear end on an 86 series when doing a clutch job.... Travis
  16. Sparky

    1466 Rops ?

    The decal/stripe seems to be a bad attempt at a repaint while adding the late 86 series tri-stripe.... Travis
  17. Sparky

    1466 Rops ?

    Yep, like Dan said, it's a factory 4-post ROPS....those became the factory option around '75, if I remember correctly. Travis
  18. Tractorseats.com (K&M) or Hy-Capacity is where you want to buy your tractor seats. They are quality built. They will last. And they bolt right on. Travis
  19. Definitely get yourself an owners manual for your tractor....It will explain exactly what you need to mount weights properly. Travis
  20. I'm with J-Mech and CIHTECH as far as cleaning goes. I use the Roloc Bristle discs and the Super Scraper along with a good old putty knife and razor blade scraper to clean. Indian head/Wolf's head gasket shellac for some gaskets. Aviation form-a-gasket for some other gaskets. Grey RTV in some places where a gasket isn't used at all. Copper Coat for some head gaskets, Silver paint for some other head gaskets. Nothing at all for some other gaskets. Crisco All-Vegetable Shortening in a can for cylinder sleeve o-rings, and pretty much any other o-ring. Trust me on this one.... Experience will tell you when, where, and how much to use. Travis
  21. The black stripe argument gets going a lot on social media... Plain and simple, there is simply no cosmetic or physical change that proves whether a tractor is a "true" black stripe or not. There are definite serial number breaks that are listed in the parts manuals that can tell you whether a tractor is a true black stripe or not. After 40+ years, there has been a lot (A LOT) of things changed on any tractor...so you really can't tell if a tractor is an actual "true" black stripe just by those changes. Travis
  22. With the amount of reman injectors out there now, the letter on the injector tube doesn't make a difference if they aren't original injectors. Any reman injectors that I've put in are a mix 'n match of letters on the tube. The nozzle tip is the part that makes the difference. Travis
  23. There's a couple of them around this area with that early frame rail. One's a 1066 the other is a 966. Travis
  24. So many people take advantage of this program it's not even funny. I know of at least one person that has went through a salvage yard and wrote down serial #'s to get free gas caps. Travis
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