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Everything posted by Sparky

  1. You must not have bought one in awhile... 224839C91 fuel cap is over $45 a piece now... Travis
  2. Three different heads...well, technically 6 different heads... Old style Naturally Aspirated...p/n 680427C1 Old style Turbo Non "B" or "C" engines...p/n 680426C1 Old style Turbo "B" engine... p/n 688833C1 New style Naturally Aspirated...p/n 680427C2 New style Turbo Non "B" or "C" engine...p/n 680426C2 New style Turbo "B" and "C" engine...p/n 688833C2 Part # is between the #4 and #5 injectors. Travis
  3. First of all....besides building your own engine, where are you going to find a better built reman? I've had good luck with them, although I don't use them much. Secondly...not a thing wrong with heli-coil when done correctly. The cam....well, who knows what happened there. Could have been the break-in procedure or just dumb luck. Travis
  4. Yes.....there are blocks stamped 414, 415, 436, 437, 466, 467, 468....but we are talking about the factory engine in a 5488 which would be a variant of the 466. Travis
  5. For the sake of simplicity and trying not to confuse the confusable any more than they need be, I didn't mention the 467 or 468 that could be there, too. Travis
  6. You do realize if the block serial # starts out with "466DT" that it isn't a factory turbocharged engine? A factory turbocharged 466 block serial # will start out "466TT"..... Travis
  7. I doubt it's your cam bearings on this particular engine. Especially since you have so much pressure at startup. If you can't find a problem with the mains and rod bearings, follow the oil pressure path. Travis
  8. If the bearings weren't line bored, they weren't changed. But...those German diesels last a long, long, long time without needing more than rod and main bearings. Might be worthwhile to drop the pan and plastigauge the mains and rods...something was missed. Travis
  9. So....was the cam bearings replaced and bored as they should be? With that low of pressure, I'm guessing there has been a mistake made, but not sure what to think right off. What weight of oil do you run in it? Travis
  10. I did not realize that. Thanks for the tip. That's probably one of the few things that JD is cheaper on, I'd say. Travis
  11. I'm all for supporting the dealer (because if we don't, the dealers aren't going to support us and our old parts needs), but when it comes to that flasher, I think there is a wayyy easier and cheaper way to have 4-way flashers. That flasher unit is pricey...for being a flasher unit, anyway. Travis
  12. Gotta set the pressure, and check the pressure yearly. Use good fluid, and try to keep the water out of it. Travis
  13. No...a cast center that fits a 1086 will no fit a 1066 because they have different size axles. If you want different cast centers for your 1066 you will have to find them off of a tractor that has the same 3.25" axle. Travis
  14. First of all....1086's have 3.5" axles. 1066's have 3.25" axles. Wheels from a 1086 will not fit a 1066 and vice versa. Secondly, if your 1066 has clamp style wheels, the wedge lock wheels from a 1066 (or any tractor with 3.25" axles) will fit just fine. ....and the same is true of a 1086....although I'm pretty sure no 1086 came from the factory with clamp style wheels, but many things can and have been changed over the last 40+ years. Travis
  15. Yep...those side panels were still louvered in '74 and '75 and had red cabs before the black stripes came out in late '75... Travis
  16. Many dealers and customers that ordered these new ordered them without a pto at all and added the dual speed at the dealership, or they simply switched them out with another tractor. Kind of like most people have never seen a 2-pt fast hitch on an 86 series...well, some guys weren't going to replace all of their machinery when they bought a new 86 series, so they simply swapped the 2-pt off the tractor they traded in and had it installed on the new 86 series. Travis
  17. If the people that truly deserve a "free" gas cap haven't received one yet, they probably don't need it. Jmo.... Travis
  18. Do NOT put stop leak in that engine....good lord... Put a pressure tester on it. You'll find it. Travis
  19. Looks like a good honest one, too. Gonna bring plenty it looks like, too.... Love that style of Chevy. My first pickup was a '68 2wd 3/4 ton I put together when I was 15-16 years old. Travis
  20. Twist the tube. Don't beat, heat, or pry until you've tried to twist. Even if you have to heat, beat, or anything else, always twist. Make the outer part (the knee) twist clear around before even trying to pull it out. Put a 6 ft long bar in between the knee and the tie rod and twist. Travis
  21. Sounds like you've taken the time to understand it. Good job. Too many people don't. Travis
  22. I'm not sure if it will, or even if it could make a difference in your pressure, but I'm definitely curious if it does. Have seen a few come through the shop with that cup installed upside down. Travis
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