acem Posted Sunday at 07:39 PM Posted Sunday at 07:39 PM Anything important I need to know before I replace the harmonic balancer on my 1486? Looks like it's going to be a pain working with the front holster on. Will a standard automotive harmonic balancer puller remove it? Quote
acem Posted Sunday at 07:40 PM Author Posted Sunday at 07:40 PM Oh, yeah. I'm replacing the water pump too. Quote
jass1660 Posted Sunday at 08:57 PM Posted Sunday at 08:57 PM It’s just a dampener, balancers are mercury filled rings that go around the dampener. Quote
TB5288 Posted Sunday at 09:30 PM Posted Sunday at 09:30 PM Good time to pull the oil pump off to inspect it. You will need front crankshaft seal. Quote
CIHTECH Posted Sunday at 10:19 PM Posted Sunday at 10:19 PM 2 hours ago, acem said: Looks like it's going to be a pain working with the front holster on. Many years ago we made a puller for doing them in frame. The spokes of inner member have a dust shield bolted to them. Removed dust shield and used it for a pattern. Made heavy 3/4 thick plate and thread it in the center. Simply bolt it on front pulley run bolt in threaded center hole against end of crankshaft to remove pulley. The front pulley has a timing mark on inner an outer member, see if they are still in alignment. A new razor blade in scraper will cut bulging rubber down flush, then fire it up and hold emery cloth on front of pulley before removing or to clean it up to check timing marks. Agree that checking the oil pump is good advice. Quote
IHC_1470 Posted Monday at 01:33 AM Posted Monday at 01:33 AM Can one get the oil pan off with the front bolster in place? The 1086 that I am working on I do not think would come off all though I did not try as the bolster had to come out for work on it. The bolster was the style that does not use the ball. Quote
TB5288 Posted Monday at 01:54 AM Posted Monday at 01:54 AM 19 minutes ago, IHC_1470 said: Can one get the oil pan off with the front bolster in place? The 1086 that I am working on I do not think would come off all though I did not try as the bolster had to come out for work on it. The bolster was the style that does not use the ball. Yes, no problem getting pan off or on on any 86 series. 1 Quote
acem Posted Monday at 01:57 AM Author Posted Monday at 01:57 AM 22 minutes ago, IHC_1470 said: Can one get the oil pan off with the front bolster in place? The 1086 that I am working on I do not think would come off all though I did not try as the bolster had to come out for work on it. The bolster was the style that does not use the ball. Yes. I have replaced the oil pan on my 1086 with the front bolster in place. Don't think the front end wishbone came off either but that's been a while. But I know for certain I did not take the front bolster off. Quote
FarmerFixEmUp Posted Monday at 03:45 AM Posted Monday at 03:45 AM I hardly ever use a puller to get the balancer off. If you have a friend available and 2 angled end pry bars, put the end between the top 5/8 timing cover bolt on each side and the outer ring of the balancer pulley. Pressure will move it forward, just jeep wiggling the pry bars. If nobody's available just keep alternating side to side and it eventually works forward. 2 Quote
HydroTek Posted Monday at 06:12 AM Posted Monday at 06:12 AM 2 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said: I hardly ever use a puller to get the balancer off. If you have a friend available and 2 angled end pry bars, put the end between the top 5/8 timing cover bolt on each side and the outer ring of the balancer pulley. Pressure will move it forward, just jeep wiggling the pry bars. If nobody's available just keep alternating side to side and it eventually works forward. Yup, done many many of them like that -- just have to walk the pulley off "straight" 1 Quote
Farmall1066 Posted Monday at 09:37 PM Posted Monday at 09:37 PM 17 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said: I hardly ever use a puller to get the balancer off. If you have a friend available and 2 angled end pry bars, put the end between the top 5/8 timing cover bolt on each side and the outer ring of the balancer pulley. Pressure will move it forward, just jeep wiggling the pry bars. If nobody's available just keep alternating side to side and it eventually works forward. Agree!! If you are also doing the water pump, maybe pull the radiator, then you are wide open to do the pulley, seal, and water pump 1 Quote
acem Posted Monday at 10:57 PM Author Posted Monday at 10:57 PM I noticed the wobbly damper because y'all told me to check because the water pump started leaking. That's a run on sentence!!! Quote
snoshoe Posted Monday at 11:01 PM Posted Monday at 11:01 PM 2 minutes ago, acem said: I noticed the wobbly damper because y'all told me to check because the water pump started leaking. That's a run on sentence!!! Saves on punctuation that way. 1 Quote
HydroTek Posted yesterday at 12:22 AM Posted yesterday at 12:22 AM Screen pixel electrons matter 1 Quote
Maynard Posted yesterday at 04:54 AM Posted yesterday at 04:54 AM 7 hours ago, Farmall1066 said: Agree!! If you are also doing the water pump, maybe pull the radiator, then you are wide open to do the pulley, seal, and water pump No need to remove the radiator to do the dampener, oil pump or water pump. Plenty of room to work in there. 1 Quote
Farmall1066 Posted 23 hours ago Posted 23 hours ago 1 hour ago, Maynard said: No need to remove the radiator to do the dampener, oil pump or water pump. Plenty of room to work in there. You are correct, but there have been times on the tractors I’ve been around, a few extra steps to pull the radiator helped a ton. Just an option. Also I got used to pulling the radiator because most radiators needed fixing as well as a pulley, and seal. Quote
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