Jump to content

Maynard

Members
  • Posts

    4,673
  • Joined

Everything posted by Maynard

  1. Was it a solid pin? That's a pretty hefty pin to shear off unless someone had put a roll pin in it.
  2. It's going back blue when it's turn comes up for paint.
  3. IH gave a pressure spec, with hot oil, that the pressure would decrease no more than 40 psi from PTO operating speed to idle. A decrease of more than 40 psi would indicate internal leakage that would make a full reseal imperative if you wanted the clutches to last.
  4. A little heat on the cylinder head around the valve should let them loosen up. The new should look like this... Far superior valve to the originals.
  5. Remove the remote valves to get to it. Photos later.
  6. Signal check in the "motor" valve has come loose. You need 1255052C93 KIT plus o-rings to seal the valve stack. Remove the remote valves, the motor valve is the inside valve slice.
  7. My years of experience with the Sanden compressors differs with your experience. Best fitting brackets I have used. Good stuff.
  8. As long as the crank is good and the cam bearings aren't worn an in frame is feasible.
  9. That is the differential lock control valve. The hitch valve is on the top left, in the area above and just ahead of the rear axle. Rarely the problem. The hitch controller is on the back wall of the cab inside the right side console. "H" is for the hitch position potentiometer that is mounted inside of the right rear cab mount.: "3" means the hitch system is disabled. Usually a short or open in the wiring between the pot and the controller. The hitch controllers have been pretty reliable over the years. I would want to know for certain that the controller is not responding to inputs before getting a replacement or yours sent for repairs.
  10. Yes it can be done through the pump opening. Angle wrenches are a necessity.
  11. Most recent advice is to torque all bolts to the same value, 20-30 foot pounds was spec given. Over torquing is bad. Make certain the bolt threads and nuts are clean of old paint residue and/or corrosion.
  12. Removing the speed shift interlock will not help the range shifting, S-4741 shows how to remove it.
  13. See if this illustration taken from the 66 series manual is better.
  14. 66 and older, the PTO brake is spring applied, not hydraulic except for the 1566s which was the first wih a hydraulic PTO brake. The hydraulic PTO brake did not appear until the tri stripe 86 series. Yep. Agree. Same experience here, of course, even if the brake is ineffective the unit will not get repaired until it will no longer pull a load.
  15. One clarification, the small frame Hydros did not have the dashpot built into the foot and inch valve, the large frame Hydros do have the dashpot feature.
  16. Simple block, steering return oil flows through the block, supplies clutch booster etc, oil for the brakes goes past the plastic pressure reducing valve to the brake inlet.
  17. Best I can do is this grainy photo from the service manual that identifies connections and the parts illustration of the block. The block in question is attached to the clutch boosted, has a plastic valve in it. The 1 GPM is still regulated by the orifice in the brake valve inlet.
  18. You need 1 of 148503C1 and 2 rings, p/n 148501C1 to update to the latest and greatest shift rail and retention rings. The shift rail can be removed through the oval opening above the PTO, Some use a hose to hold the shaft but I can get my short, thick arms in there and replace with my hand. They also recommend using shift fork 398279R2, but at $915.00 US CNH can go pound sand. It is good practice to add a chamfer in the ends of the shift fork if it does not have them. The chamfer will lock the ring in place, where if the end is squared off it could maybe dislodge the retaining rings. It was also common for the rail to break at the bolt hole back in the day.
  19. The bearing spacer is not required in the 71XX, 72XX or 89XX series Magnums. It's good practice to always check and adjust the rolling torque before installing a new seal.
  20. This fault indicates either a bad voltage supply or ground to the transmission controller or an internal controller failure.
  21. The tank that wrapped around the axle was an option.
  22. This style of coupler was standard on a lot of 9XXX Steigers. If you need to couple/uncouple under pressure these work well. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/483431-pioneer-lever-coupler-kit.html
  23. I really like this style coupler.
  24. Same brace, p/n 1251937C1 used from the 5088 all the way through the 8900 extra capacity lower tank. Stock shows 18 in Lebanon, IN depot at $144.00, i'm sure they'd like to get rid of them.
×
×
  • Create New...