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IHC_1470

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About IHC_1470

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  • Birthday 02/24/1956

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    Craigmont, Idaho

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  1. IHC_1470

    C157

    All States in Salem SD might be a source.
  2. Yet what has Steve to loose by doing the injectors and trying it for awhile? If he was to O/H the engine I would assume the injectors would have been gone through at that time anyway correct. So he is not out any money other than some gaskets and his time to install. A few hours of operation should give him a direction to go from here.
  3. The solenoid to the right is for the throttle kicker. It was a vacuum plunger that held the throttle open at around 1800 rpm under decel conditions to help prevent backfiring. Doubt that would be the issue. If I recall correctly you can just unplug the electronic governor system, at least for testing. It is very possible that it is shutting down the carb.
  4. If you do end up putting the combine engine in, while you were swapping the oil pan I sure would be rolling new bearings in unless you know the history of the combine engine. Replace the rod bolts too. The back cover is different so time for a rear oil seal also. I have done that swap and it is not bad to do where you will have both engines. There is quite a few items that need swapped like Matt Kirsch said. Seems like oil pan and oil pump pick up tube, dip stick tube, rear cover were the main things. Not sure on the front cover as mine went into a 3388 so no side rails for mounting but you may need to swap the front cover for your tractor. I did swap injection pump over as I wanted tractor settings and did not want to run the wiring for the electric shut off. I agree with the others it does sound like a lot of your issues are more fuel related.
  5. Probably the biggest issue is if the spinning tire suddenly grabs. The shock load is what is hard on the side gears. Once watched one of my bus drivers spinning on ice and suddenly the wheels grabbed. About three days later I was looking for a pot to drop in as the side gears gave up the ghost.
  6. Good luck with your decision. I am working on one of those project myself at the moment. Dual auger header for a 5000 swather. Needs way more work than what I had anticipated, but at least I have a couple of parts headers that I got for cheep to help me out. Parts are what I expected just was not anticipating the amount of labor I am going to have in it. But at least it gives me something to do besides feeding cows and moving snow.
  7. Would depend on if you want to work on a project or not. Certainly not worth more than scrap at this point and actually I would plan on much less than that. You will have time into loading it and getting to your place. Then if you work on it some and determine that it is scrap then you will have to load and haul again. Do you have a shop you can work on it in or would it be outside? Crawl under it and crack open the drain plugs and see if you get any water out of any of them. Might give you the answer before you go any further. How quickly do you need a working machine? This one sounds like it might need some major time to get back into working shape. What would a machine like this in running condition be worth? I would guess if you count your time as worth anything and you should that you will have more into it than what you could ever get back out of it if you chose to sell it down the road. Maybe someone else's crystal ball will look different. Just my 2 cents for what it is worth. Dennis
  8. Have 18.4x30's on hydro 84. Tractor is just used as a loader tractor no tillage. Probably have about 300 hours on them now. Have had no issues. Can still make out the size cast into the lugs. Seem to be just as good if not better than the Titans that are on the other hydro. Had sidewall crack on a titan you could still see the size cast in the lug but no they would not warranty it as it was to old.
  9. IHC_1470

    DT361 rebuild

    It is a driver for sure. No way to know the mileage I have put on it but I have wore out a set of tires ground the valves once and tightened one rod since restoring the motor. So it has a few on it. I restored it back in the late 70's and used IH enamel paint.
  10. Have never worked on that model Kohler so this is a long shot that may be off in left field and if so please forgive me. Have run across maybe three engines over the years that did that or something similar and in each case they had a US Forest Service approved muffler and the fine mess screen they put in them was getting carboned over and not letting the exhaust out. Something that should be fairly easy to check. The other advise is also good and could also be causing your issue. Let us know what you finally find so everyone can learn.
  11. IHC_1470

    DT361 rebuild

    I am an ASE certified master auto, master machinist, master H/D truck, and master School Bus Tech. Also was School Bus Tech of the year in 1998 for the United States when I took that round of test. Have worked in IH truck and ag dealerships, independent auto and truck shops, service manager at a Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda, and BMW dealership, manager and tech for a school bus contract and now farm so yes have been in the business most of my working life. And I am old school as I believe in diagnosing and repairing not just throwing parts at things until you stumble onto the problem. Also like working on and driving old school machines. Hope that is enough experience for you.
  12. IHC_1470

    DT361 rebuild

    One possibility is the machine shop did not get the radius correct when the crank was turned on the thrust journal. In that case it would tend to lock on the very edge of the bearing when torqued down. Take a feeler gauge and measure the clearance between the crank and thrust face of the main bearing with the cap off. That should give a pretty good indication of the clearance that is there. TGFAIN if you still have the old main bearings post some pictures of all of them. From the wear patterns we probably can get some ideas if the block needs line bored or not if you did not have the machine shop check that for you. J-Mech give TGFAIN some credit, he may not know exactly what he is doing but he is aware there are some issues and he is asking questions. I would venture a guess that we were all in his position when we did our first engines too. That is how we learn, by the mistakes we make. I still have the occasional question come up and I have been doing it for better than 40 years now.
  13. If it turns there then pull the cable off the tach and see it the cable turns there. If it turns there then put the cable back into the tach and turn the cable at the engine end with a drill and see if the tach runs. Also check real close and make sure that the hole is not spun out where the cable goes into the 90 degree fitting. It is possible for the center to turn but is the hole where the cable goes into is spun out it will still not turn the cable. Should add run the drill both directions as one way the tach will not move.
  14. The D239 was in a 5000 swather. Sit over winter and filled the crankcase with antifreeze.
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