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About IHC_1470

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  • Birthday 02/24/1956

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    Craigmont, Idaho

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  1. Makes no difference which way the leads are connect while in ohm position. It was not a stupid question though.
  2. On my 3788 the steering locked much like you describe. That ended up being the steering orbital motor. At one time many years ago there was a bulletin for adding an in-line filter on the hyd feed to the steering. With the amount of junk on your filters it is possible that some might have gotten past I suppose. Does look like an oil change is in order. Think if it were mine I would do filters first and try it. If it works great than dump the oil and maybe another set of filters. Not sure I would put new oil in until I was reasonably certain issue was not something that would require a split of the tractor or having oil drain for a repair. I just hate having to catch new oil with the possibility of getting something into it. Keep us posted as to what you find. Got to thinking about the steering orbital motor. What cause it's failure was a spring in the alternating check valve broke and got into the spool. I ended up replacing the orbital, throwing away the check valve and rebuilding both steering cylinders as I felt there could have been part of the spring in one of them and there was.
  3. Maybe a slide hammer in the hole to pop it out? I just had to do that on mine and the plate just came out without much issue. I just had the outer cover off that the suction hose connect too. Tipped the steel plate side ways and had enough room to work the suction tube around. Question for you. Do you still have the piston pump and is the compensatory valve on the side of the pump good? I am looking for that valve as the spool inside of mine broke where one of the o'rings goes. Pretty sure the pump itself is still good. Would be interested in talking to you about it if you think it is good. Dennis
  4. At least not chasing his tail.
  5. One problem with the 4000 5000 machines, parts are very hard to get anymore really nothing at the dealer level. I have the dual auger header version and if you need a part it pretty much is a go to the machine shop and have it built process. The drive couplers for the augers are very hard to find. Wobble box is expensive to repair. Augers themselves you have to make. The hay conditioner is not big enough to get material through if you are in heavy hay. Besides the fact most of them the rolls are getting smooth and that does not help to pull material through. And IH did not put any sort of slip clutch on the header drive so one has to watch that you do not wrap an auger as that can get very expensive very fast. The cab is noisy if it has one. The steering on the ones I have been around at this point in time are very loose. The first one I bought when you moved the hydro lever forward it would steer to the left and when you slowed down you went to the right. Made for some interesting rides in the hills we have around here. Was wore out pins on the swash plates in the rear pump that was causing that. Yes they still cut lots of hay, just be aware that you need to be friends with a machine shop as the CIH dealer is not going to be much help. The header has been my biggest issue over the years. I spent last winter replacing all the bearings and the most difficult part of that is getting the couplers to unscrew on the auger drive shafts without breaking anything. Also had to replace the main drive shaft that runs through the tube in the header. One bearing had been spinning in an auger tube so that tube was also repaired at the time. I replaced the augers with ones that had much better flighting and it made a major difference in how it feed last summer. Still would wrap once in a great while but not near like it did I worked on the header. They still bring pretty good money around here. They are not a bad machine at all if you can work around the parts issue.
  6. The factory did put electric lift pumps on them. 174362C92 Tokheim pump or 183721C1 Facet pump.The facet pump is the little cube pump and goes on top of the filter housing. The Tokheim has a built in screen and does not look like it uses the water filter according to the parts book. Can send picture of the Facet sit up if needed.
  7. There is a 220 volt electric heater in the barn. At the moment I have a little heater cube going. The plug-ins still work just no lights. From there he feed on to the machine shed and I have no power at all there. As to the neutral I discovered when he wired that he has the neutral and one hot turned around in the breaker panels. The reason I say this is there are two wires the same size and one bigger. That is not a huge problem to resolve if I can locate the open. Right at the moment I am trying to get the water end of the problem resolved. Found a broken section in the PCV line which is now repaired. Still do not have great pressure or flow on the frost proof hydrant that is about 7 feet from where the break was. At the barn itself the water flow is much better, not sure if it is as good as it could be but much better. I have had the guts out of the hydrant about a year ago so I may just dig down to the bottom and see if by chance there is something blocking the opening. I blew it backwards today with air while I had the line open before installing the splice. If there is something blocking it air did not remove it. The place has an artisan well and there is enough flow and pressure that I seldom have the pump on. The place also is somewhat a swamp year around so it is hard to know when you have a leak. I left the hole open tonight although I did sit a round bale on top of it to keep things from freezing and I left the hydrant flowing slowly. Didn't see any reason to fill it back in until a get the hydrant issue resolve.
  8. Yes I agree and probably what I will end up doing. Going to see if I can get the water fixed this morning before the calves run out of water. If not then will have to kick them back out with Mom's. Water is number one to fix and then I will deal with the electrical. For sure the electrical will be run in conduit the next time. The problem with this place is it is nothing but rock. I remember Dad saying they had a heck of a time getting things laid the last time.
  9. I have had the wires out of the breaker and then reinstalled. That did not help. Yes if I end up digging the line mostly up trying to find the damaged spot it will go back in conduit. Think I would have ran the water in black poly instead of the PVC also. It all is what it is at this point. I am aware of inductive amp gauges which clamp onto a wire. That works if the wire makes a circuit. The guy I had out said his tester would show where the open was as a rule except in this case the wire did not go to ground so there is not a complete circuit to follow. The best he could do was locate the wires.
  10. Have an underground feed from shop to the barn that Dad installed back in 1989. He used aluminium wire at the time. One leg and it is a hot leg has gone open. It is not a bad circuit breaker as that shows power at the panel but no power at the other end. I had a guy out to locate the wire which he did but was unable to find the open as it did not go to ground. Water was also laid in the same trench at the time. I also have a water leak so started digging at where I assumed the leak was this afternoon. I kind of thought maybe I would find both issues in the same location. Water leak I have found looks like PVC pipe was used and it is cracked. Pipe is down at around 30 inches but the electrical is closer to 15 inches and not in conduit. Not sure why that was but is what it is. The electrical looks fine what I have exposed. My question is there a good way to test the electrical where I am at to see which direction I need to go to find the open. I am about half way between barn and shop at the moment. The only way I can think of is to probe through the insulation. If I do that what is the best way to seal it back up so do not have future issues at this spot? I may find the electrical issue when I get things opened up enough to work on the water line but thought I would ask for ideas in the mean time.
  11. If you do decided to run it look into an after market drum. Think you will be much happier over the 4 paddle IH.
  12. When you go back with the new transmission make sure that the shift linkage is adjusted correctly. Replaced one for a friend who had a 1680 that was jumping out of 2nd. The linkage would not allow the gears to fully engage. Took one out of a 1470 I was wrecking out and swapped the change gears so he had same ratio and then installed. It was a good thing that I looked at the transmission we put in as the bearings were going out on the bull gear.
  13. No they are not all the same. Grain machine used 130752C1 39t change gear and the rice machines used 130750C1 42t gear. These part numbers are for a 1480. 1460 used different part numbers and different tooth count. And of course the shaft and gear that they run against are also different numbers depending on the gears. You would have to pull the top and look at the shaft and gears to know what your getting.
  14. I would not worry to much about it. It usually comes up under the snow in this area. It does seem to be slower coming out of the ground this year. How many pounds to the acre did you seed and at what depth? Most around here shoot for 100 and 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
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