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IHC_1470

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About IHC_1470

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  • Birthday 02/24/1956

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    Craigmont, Idaho

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  1. One problem with the 4000 5000 machines, parts are very hard to get anymore really nothing at the dealer level. I have the dual auger header version and if you need a part it pretty much is a go to the machine shop and have it built process. The drive couplers for the augers are very hard to find. Wobble box is expensive to repair. Augers themselves you have to make. The hay conditioner is not big enough to get material through if you are in heavy hay. Besides the fact most of them the rolls are getting smooth and that does not help to pull material through. And IH did not put any sort of slip clutch on the header drive so one has to watch that you do not wrap an auger as that can get very expensive very fast. The cab is noisy if it has one. The steering on the ones I have been around at this point in time are very loose. The first one I bought when you moved the hydro lever forward it would steer to the left and when you slowed down you went to the right. Made for some interesting rides in the hills we have around here. Was wore out pins on the swash plates in the rear pump that was causing that. Yes they still cut lots of hay, just be aware that you need to be friends with a machine shop as the CIH dealer is not going to be much help. The header has been my biggest issue over the years. I spent last winter replacing all the bearings and the most difficult part of that is getting the couplers to unscrew on the auger drive shafts without breaking anything. Also had to replace the main drive shaft that runs through the tube in the header. One bearing had been spinning in an auger tube so that tube was also repaired at the time. I replaced the augers with ones that had much better flighting and it made a major difference in how it feed last summer. Still would wrap once in a great while but not near like it did I worked on the header. They still bring pretty good money around here. They are not a bad machine at all if you can work around the parts issue.
  2. The factory did put electric lift pumps on them. 174362C92 Tokheim pump or 183721C1 Facet pump.The facet pump is the little cube pump and goes on top of the filter housing. The Tokheim has a built in screen and does not look like it uses the water filter according to the parts book. Can send picture of the Facet sit up if needed.
  3. There is a 220 volt electric heater in the barn. At the moment I have a little heater cube going. The plug-ins still work just no lights. From there he feed on to the machine shed and I have no power at all there. As to the neutral I discovered when he wired that he has the neutral and one hot turned around in the breaker panels. The reason I say this is there are two wires the same size and one bigger. That is not a huge problem to resolve if I can locate the open. Right at the moment I am trying to get the water end of the problem resolved. Found a broken section in the PCV line which is now repaired. Still do not have great pressure or flow on the frost proof hydrant that is about 7 feet from where the break was. At the barn itself the water flow is much better, not sure if it is as good as it could be but much better. I have had the guts out of the hydrant about a year ago so I may just dig down to the bottom and see if by chance there is something blocking the opening. I blew it backwards today with air while I had the line open before installing the splice. If there is something blocking it air did not remove it. The place has an artisan well and there is enough flow and pressure that I seldom have the pump on. The place also is somewhat a swamp year around so it is hard to know when you have a leak. I left the hole open tonight although I did sit a round bale on top of it to keep things from freezing and I left the hydrant flowing slowly. Didn't see any reason to fill it back in until a get the hydrant issue resolve.
  4. Yes I agree and probably what I will end up doing. Going to see if I can get the water fixed this morning before the calves run out of water. If not then will have to kick them back out with Mom's. Water is number one to fix and then I will deal with the electrical. For sure the electrical will be run in conduit the next time. The problem with this place is it is nothing but rock. I remember Dad saying they had a heck of a time getting things laid the last time.
  5. I have had the wires out of the breaker and then reinstalled. That did not help. Yes if I end up digging the line mostly up trying to find the damaged spot it will go back in conduit. Think I would have ran the water in black poly instead of the PVC also. It all is what it is at this point. I am aware of inductive amp gauges which clamp onto a wire. That works if the wire makes a circuit. The guy I had out said his tester would show where the open was as a rule except in this case the wire did not go to ground so there is not a complete circuit to follow. The best he could do was locate the wires.
  6. Have an underground feed from shop to the barn that Dad installed back in 1989. He used aluminium wire at the time. One leg and it is a hot leg has gone open. It is not a bad circuit breaker as that shows power at the panel but no power at the other end. I had a guy out to locate the wire which he did but was unable to find the open as it did not go to ground. Water was also laid in the same trench at the time. I also have a water leak so started digging at where I assumed the leak was this afternoon. I kind of thought maybe I would find both issues in the same location. Water leak I have found looks like PVC pipe was used and it is cracked. Pipe is down at around 30 inches but the electrical is closer to 15 inches and not in conduit. Not sure why that was but is what it is. The electrical looks fine what I have exposed. My question is there a good way to test the electrical where I am at to see which direction I need to go to find the open. I am about half way between barn and shop at the moment. The only way I can think of is to probe through the insulation. If I do that what is the best way to seal it back up so do not have future issues at this spot? I may find the electrical issue when I get things opened up enough to work on the water line but thought I would ask for ideas in the mean time.
  7. If you do decided to run it look into an after market drum. Think you will be much happier over the 4 paddle IH.
  8. When you go back with the new transmission make sure that the shift linkage is adjusted correctly. Replaced one for a friend who had a 1680 that was jumping out of 2nd. The linkage would not allow the gears to fully engage. Took one out of a 1470 I was wrecking out and swapped the change gears so he had same ratio and then installed. It was a good thing that I looked at the transmission we put in as the bearings were going out on the bull gear.
  9. No they are not all the same. Grain machine used 130752C1 39t change gear and the rice machines used 130750C1 42t gear. These part numbers are for a 1480. 1460 used different part numbers and different tooth count. And of course the shaft and gear that they run against are also different numbers depending on the gears. You would have to pull the top and look at the shaft and gears to know what your getting.
  10. I would not worry to much about it. It usually comes up under the snow in this area. It does seem to be slower coming out of the ground this year. How many pounds to the acre did you seed and at what depth? Most around here shoot for 100 and 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
  11. Also check the air gap of the sensor. They are around .120 of an inch. Believe it is the same sensor used on the rotor so you could swap and check if so inclined. If the channel is shut off then my first thought would be sensor. I believe most of those sensors are basically an on-off magnetic switch. So your sending a digital signal back to the tach and shaft monitor. If you have an ohm meter you can connect to the leads of the sensor and slowly turn the shaft and you should see open-closed readings on the meter. I do not know the voltage so am guessing I have never checked it but would assume either 5 volt or 12 volt. Both pretty common voltages for that sort of circuit.
  12. Do you have the shaft monitor system and if so what is the fan indicator doing? If it is indicating fan rpm and when you slow the fan down the alarm comes on then you could rule out the sensor and look at the wiring that feeds the tach. The machine has two different wiring systems one for tach and one for shaft alarm feed by one sensor. I found on mine last fall that the harness has a connector that comes up through the cab floor that was full of chaff and was wet and was causing some very strange issues. Have to pull the right side cab panel to get to it.
  13. Have you checked the brushes in the generator? Good chance they are wore out. I would guess the generator has a band over the brushes, just pull it and take a look at them. Also run it and see how much arching you have on the commutator as that can give you a good idea what brush contact is like too. If you have a volt meter what is the voltage on the Arm terminal and Field terminal when engine is running at about 1500 rpm.
  14. The only way I have ever seen that sort of damaged repaired is to bore the block over size and install a dry repair sleeve and then bore that sleeve to take the replacement cylinder sleeve. It does make for a good solid repair and I have never had one transfer the crack out into the sleeve. I guess if your not running this engine very much that JB Weld might work. So depends on what you want the tractor to do.
  15. Parking brake set by chance? It is the only buzzer I can think of that goes off and on with the foot and inch valve. Any warning lights coming on?
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