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IHC_1470

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About IHC_1470

  • Birthday 02/24/1956

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    Craigmont, Idaho

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  1. As far as the clutch first thing I would do is go through all the adjustments and make sure they are correct. Pay close attention to the dump valve adjustment and make sure that it is free to move on the pivot. What are the brakes like when this is going on? Steering pump which one is in the system? They originally had a variable displacement pump and sometimes those have been replaced with a gear pump. Where is the oil level on the dip stick? May or may not help to bring it up 5 gallon over the full mark, it is worth the try if it is low. Put some gauges on the system and see what you have for pressures. There is no pump behind the MCV plate on the 2+2 tractors but I have seen the jumper tube blow the gasket. The pumps are a little noise on the 2+2 that I am running kind of a whine somewhat like a hydrostat which makes sense as they are variable displacement pumps. Really sounds to me like you may have a cavitation issue going on. The water at this point, I would just crack open each drain plug and drain off what water you can until you get the issues fixed and then replace with new oil. I know there are 4 for sure but in the back of my mind I believe you will find 5 total drain plugs. In the 12000 plus hours I have been around mine the steering pump has blown apart once, steering hand pump has locked up, the jumper tube behind the MCV blew the gasket, the hydraulic relief valve 113680C91 has gone bad, alternating check valve 142864C95 failed sending pieces into the steering cylinders which required a rebuild. And believe it or not once the steering issue was actually the TA being bad. It has been too long now to say off top of head but the lube circuit is a little different on a 2+2 than say a 1086. TA was still shifting but lube pressures was whacky causing the lube light to come on at times, brakes and steering were both not correct. In each case it resulted in hard steering, the only one that was vary apparent as to what was wrong was when the pump went because there were pieces everywhere under the tractor. Others took some testing with gauges to determine where the problem was. Get yourself a service manual and some gauges and you should be able to figure it out without to much trouble.
  2. Think I know where there is one in a 4100. Would be located in Idaho and I am sure you would have to take the whole machine. Not mine but if you PM me I will try and get the two of you together. I suggested it to Dirtboyz before he found one closer. Pretty sure it is a running motor.
  3. Not exactly what you are asking about, wife wanted a cook stove and we installed a Nordica Rosa a year ago. Does an excellent job of heating the house 1600 sq ft and it also makes very good meals. Not sure if the regulations have changed but at the time cook stoves did not need to meet EPA approval. They do not have a huge firebox but are quite easy on wood. One of the ceramic sides was cracked in shipment and we did not catch it at the time the freight company dropped it off. The business we bought it from was excellent to deal with and sent a replacement at no charge. The wife went with the red option. The person who installed it for us was very impressed with the quality of construction. He installs wood stoves as his primary job and he did not sell this one so I am pretty sure he was telling it as it was. The only issue that I have had to deal with is the door gasket coming loose and needing glued back into place. The door glass is hard to keep clean on the fire box side, really does not bother me that much that I can not see the flames but that would be one thing to consider if your into flame watching. https://cookstoves.net/la-nordica-cooks
  4. Was in the first grade. Believe I was in the school gym. Rumor was Kennedy had been shot and I thought it was one of the school teachers as we had one with the last name of Kennedy.
  5. So what code is it sitting? It has been close to 20 years since I actively work in the motor truck industry so memory is fuzzy. It seemed like the system was capable of sitting code for open or shorted circuit and would tell you which wheel was at issue. There were some other codes that it could sit also. As far as pulling the bulb it works until DOT catches you and then you are down for the count, at least in Idaho that was the way it worked. As I mentioned earlier there can be as may mechanical issues that cause ABS issues as electrical. At close to 2 million I am guessing many of the parts have all ready been replaced more than once. I found the tone ring? tooth ring was an issue where winter salt was used as it would eat up the teeth. As that happened the signal was no longer a clean signal to the ECM. You also wanted to check the wiring from wheels to the frame as there is some flex and sometimes the wire will break inside the insulation. I do not see where you have ever mentioned what codes are being sit, just that it is. That would narrow things down some if we knew if the circuit was going open or not. Since you only posted the one time maybe we should conclude that the issue has been resolved?
  6. Looks like you have the long one but for some reason the flighting is missing between the hubs. I sent you a PM.
  7. I would wash it off asap. Nasty stuff on paint.
  8. Have a question about retorqueing the bolts. Do any of you break them loose one at a time and then bring them back up to specs or do you just see if they will move. I have found that if you just try them often they will not move yet if you break them loose and then come back up that they will indeed tighten down some more. I mark the bolt with a paint stick so I can see how much they turn. Just wondering what most do here.
  9. The pump idea would work. Often had that issue on school buses when I worked on them. They have in some cases close to a 30 foot run from the engine to rear heaters so they can be a real bear to get the air out. A lot of buses do have booster pumps to help move the water. What I have found on tractors is to use a radiator pressure tester, pull one hose off at the block and either shut off or temporarily plug the fitting on the block depending on if there is a shut off valve that you can close. Pump up a little pressure and it will force the water up through the heater core. When you get water flow out of the hose clamp the hose which will stop flow and allow you to reconnect to block. Be sure to kill the air pressure before remaking the connection so you do not have a gusher on your hands. At that point you should have flow and any remaining air in the system will work its way out.
  10. Some suggestions which may or may not help. Loose wheel bearing by chance? Not sure if I remember the correct term for the ring with all the teeth (tone ring)? Anyway how corroded are the teeth? Air gap clearance correct? Any of these items that are out of specs will cause strange signals to the computer. Sounds like it is only the left front wheel giving issues so should not be that hard to find.
  11. Rebuilt the brake system on the ST280 last winter. Original brake was the multi-disc on 2 speed swing transfer case. Original owner had converted it to the twin caliper system on the front diff similar to what you picture but not quite the same. A new master cylinder was $469.00, seals and o-rings for the two calipers were $274.00, and brake pads were $306.00. I sourced the parts from Big Tractor, CaseIH, and a place called Brake Supply. Think the master through the dealer was going to run $1180.00. Pads NLA through dealer so Big Tractor for them. Repair parts for calipers came from the dealer. Master cylinder came from Brake Supply and they did not have repair kits only new master cylinders. Seems that to get the pads from the dealer you had to buy complete caliper assemblies for $3055.00 each which seemed quite high to me. So about half your price at $1049.00. Like you say brakes are important and nothing seems inexpensive anymore. Glad you were able to get them repaired and hope they serve you more many years to come.
  12. In needed a pair of fencing pliers so called the local store this morning. No none in stock.
  13. Never been around a 1440 so this may not be correct, on the larger machines to drain the rotor case unbolt the dipstick tube from the frame and lay it over and that is the drain. That case holds about a gallon of hytran. The front gear case if you pull the right panel to get into the rotor and look up you will find a pipe with a cap on it. I have an old hydraulic hose that I screw on and let it drain through the hose, saves getting oil all over the auger bed. On a 1460 that case holds 88 oz. and runs 135 HEP 85W-140 gear oil. Can not help you with your other questions.
  14. I doubt it would cost that much to analyze it. Service manual and some gauges will probably give you a fair idea what is going on. It might get expensive to fix and then again it might not just depending on what is going on. For instance if it is a flow divider issue often you can polish the spool and they go back to working. Does not take much to make them stick it seems like. Same with pressure relief valves sometimes they are adjustable and sometimes they need replaced and cost does vary. A good hydraulic shop will be your friend.
  15. I think the C engine was the inline Bosch pump.
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