IHC_1470

Wonder if they would still do it in Spokane if one took it to them. Wrong tires for the hillside though. They will have to be swapped out. The interesting thing is I picked up a 1470 this summer that looks like a runner that cost less then the one pictured above.

Wonder if it could be put on steroids and made into a 1470?

I have been able to get parts for a very old field cultivator so thinking you should be able to. Looks like the 13 cpw is actually a 2500 series machine. Maybe this link will help. https://wil-rich.b-cdn.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/2510-2530-Chisel-Plow-Parts-Manual.pdf

No the gauges themselves are not lighted. Like HydroTek said they are 194 bulbs in the twist sockets.

Actually the timing is done in the gear box as you have to get the gears in time. The horizontal auger flighting just has to clear the vertical when together. You can be 180 off but that is very noticeable when you spin it over. Easy enough to pull the pin and turn 180 to correct. If you do not have a service manual I can bring mine up from the shop and post the procedure. Does seem those long bits are called aircraft bits.

I had the gear box out of the elbow when I did it. You have to get the arm of the gear box straight with the drill press to that as you do not wonder off and drill out of the arm before you get to the gears. I had a long maybe 6 inch bit that was very small in diameter. As I recall I rebuilt the box at the same time. It was very dry as I do not believe it had the internal zerk either. I now give it about 5 pumps every 50 hours like you do the lower gears.

Depends on how new you wish to go. I have 2 Hydro 84's both MFWD and they make excellent loader tractors but are not really suited for field work. The front axle driving is really nice for feeding in the winter. The bigger hydro tractors would get you into a cab maybe. They are all older tractors though and that might not fit your needs.

May or may not have the grease zerk. I actually drilled a hole in the arm that goes to the outside of upper helmet when auger is folded in so I could grease with out pulling the inspection cover off. As I recall there was a hole there already between the mounting bolts. Zerk is #7 in the picture.

Good time to grease the gear box while your in there.

Just recently went through this myself. Had a gal turn in front of me on Sept 12 and I totaled the 82 F250 I was driving. 311K, rusted out and insurance payout was crazy high which did surprise me. Anyway I found a 1994 F250 sitting at 140K. Has the 7.3 diesel and 5 speed. XL trim level so pretty basic which is great for a farm truck. I thought I paid to much for it, after looking at the Dodge I did OK at $8500. Nice thing about this truck is no computers to contend with, just a honest work truck that is capable of 20 mpg which was a nice surprise. I have no desires for a new truck or car with all the government BS they now require.

No not at all.

So what would this group consider to be to old of a pickup to buy?

I guess age of a truck means little to me. In fact older is probably better. When I started looking for something to replace the 82 F250 that was totaled in September was not sure what I wanted. Since I was looking for a farm truck really was not interested in power everything. I wanted a manual transmission so that cuts out the new trucks anyway. What I ended up getting was 1994 F250 with 140K miles. No rust and no dents. XL trim so not much in the way of fancy stuff. Standard cab, rubber floor mat, crank windows, and manual door locks. I can live with all that. The only thing I can see on it that has a computer tied into it would be the rear axle ABS. 7.3 IDI factory turbo with the 5 speed. Does not get any more mechanical than that. Average fuel in the 1000 miles I have driven it is 14 mpg and I have gotten as high as 20.5 and low 9.7. Has a flat bed on it and the jury is still out on keeping that or putting a 8 foot box back on it. Anyway well under 10k dollars and I am guessing it will go as far or maybe more over the Ram that started this thread. And I can buy lots of fuel for the 40K+ difference it price. The only issue so far has been getting the glow plug system working correctly. First go around turned out to be China junk plugs that were supposed Motorcraft so the system did not work correctly. Second go around with OEM plugs was a success story. I realize a truck this old is not everyone's cup of tea and not many will be in the condition this one appears to be in. For life as a farm truck this one seems like it fills the position pretty well.

Has nothing to do with the fenders just shows why sometimes it is hard to go to the dealer. Checked on 367677R91 breather cap today. Fits many model IH tractors and in this case it is the oil fill transmission breather for a 3588. Only a cool $179.89. I passed for the time being.

I would say yes.

I like to go with the 100 psi sender to allow for cold oil start ups. Stewart Warner 279-B. Several places ranging from $35-60.

If I recall correctly they are a 33-248 ohm sender unit. Stewart Warner makes them in that range. A 0-80 psi range should work as the engine high idle pressure spec is 65 psi.

They are a little different looking can then what I am familiar with but function should be the same. You said when nut is screwed down the brake is applied. Are you actually screwing the nut down or do you see the nut move down when the brake is applied? I suspect the latter. As I stated the first time when you run the nut down and start pulling the rod out of the can it compresses the spring and contains it. Take the old can with you so you get the same size and stroke. What I mean by size is piston size, they make long stroke can. Like a hydraulic brake system might use a 1 1/2 bore or 1 5/8 cylinder. Both might physically look the same but you would have different braking from side to side because of that 1/8 inch difference in bore size. Replace one or both good question lot depends I guess on how you use the truck. When I was in the business normal practice was to just replace the leaking one. Will also depend on how close they can match up your can. The safe way would be to replace both. I have been away from that sort of thing for a bunch of years now so I am sure prices are not at all what I remember. I would guess you are looking at $75.00-$100.00 a can in todays world. Think I paid around $40.00 in the day.

I posted the link up the page on signs to look for to discover the fakes. The bad plugs have the correct crimp on the top, in this case it was the package itself that has the clue. They do not have the vent punch mark. I did not know about that until I discovered that link. Once out of the package everything else about the plug looks OEM other then the low amp draw. One of the reasons I have tried to put in some of the details on this is hopefully somewhere down the road someone else may find this in a search and it will help them out.

For the price of new cans why bother trying to repair. With new you will have two new pucks to boot. As to your question I have not seem that style anchor bolt, however the ones I have used the nut needs to be run down to the can to compress the spring inside so that it is contained.

So one more update. Contacted the seller about the issue and so far nothing but runaround. Their first reply back "Dear friend, Thank you for your purchase and email. We confirmed with our supplier and they told us the item is genuine. If there are any other problem when you receive it,pls feel free to tell us. Best regards." My reply "Well if the are genuine Motorcraft glow plugs then they are totally out of specs as they only draw 10 amps current. From a dealer the ones I purchase to replace yours draw 25 amps. With your plugs in the engine the electronic controller would not work. When yours were replaced with the dealer plugs controller worked as it should, only thing I changed was the glow plugs. I still question that the glow plugs you are selling are genuine Motorcraft parts based on two things, one current draw is incorrect and second the packaging. All I can say is the plugs did not function as expected and I had to purchase another set to make the glow plug system function correctly." Round two "Dear friend, Thank you for your purchase.Sorry for the trouble to you. We confirmed with our supplier and they told us the item is genuine. Since you are not satisfied with the purchase , would you like us to give you $15 refund if you can keep it?If you think our solution is not good enough, please don’t hesitate to write us.We will try our best to improve it until you are satisfied. Many thanks for your understanding. Looking forward to your reply. Best regards." My reply "Lets see; you are selling a glow plug that is over 50 percent out of range when it comes to amp draw, that will not make the electronic controller work and you wish to offer a $15.00 refund instead of a full refund. Seems like that is great way to care for your customer. I do not doubt that your glow plugs are a genuine glow plug but I seriously doubt they are OEM manufacture Motorcraft glow plugs. The package says different. Do what ever you think is right and will allow you to sleep at night! Round three " Dear friend, we are also sorry about this matter. We originally wanted to send you a new set, but you said you have already purchased a new set. We can increase the refund amount to $20. Are you willing? I apologize to you again My reply "You do what what ever you wish to do. If you can sell a defective product and wish to only offer a partial refund go for it. You have to live with your actions not me. And I am not your friend." Hated to break up the friendship but a guy has to do what a guy has to do 😂 Do you supposed there will be surprise when the feedback maybe is a little negative. I have had an extra hour to think about this since getting up this morning. Really did not wish to rush in to anything, still think the break up had to happen. As far as the truck starting, it is very happy now give the lady 8 hot plugs and she purrs like a kitten. 🥰

I would guess the idea is to stop some of the dirt from impacting it since the cross flow fan is supposed to be pulling in more air. I have always questioned how much improvement the cross flow fan really is. I was disappointed in my machine when I first got it as it really did a poor job cleaning based on book settings. Then I started doing some research and discovered IH jumped the fan RPM up 200 on the machines with the new fan. When I did that the sample cleaned right up. I have sold 2 cross flow fans out of machines I bought for parts. Both guys got back to me down the road and told me they really did not see that much improvement over the old paddle style fan. Always figured they would be the ones to know as they had run the original style for many years. Both went into 1470's which would be a 1460 for everyone else. Glad to know you are back up and going Michael.

I really do not know. I guess they thought us guys in the PNW if were crazy enough to be on a hillside were tough enough not to need a cab. It was really something when the 14xx series came out to finally have a factory cab. It was a very nice step up.

That would be item #42?

Not to steal this thread and IH did not put a factory cab on the 453 combine for some reason. Many of these cabs were made in Colfax, Washington and did not have any foam on walls. You could also stand and operate the machine in this cab. Seems like the name was Comfort King. I am sure there were others that made them too but that is close to 50 years ago and my memory is a little dimmer now days. The service manual for the 453 was actually for the 715. The 453 leveled 4 ways.