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Everything posted by IHC_1470

  1. Go down to the discussion for the carb on the 1983 392 carb. Pretty good picture of the throttle linkage and the return spring system I am talking about. The lever with the wire tied to it has a hook on the bottom that engages with another lever on the carb. When bolted to the engine and the external return spring is connected once you engage the hooks the coiled round spring is taken out of action. If for some reason the return spring would break than the hooks disengage and than the coil spring will return the throttle plates. Takes way more effort to move the throttle at that point. In that example it looks to me like the return spring is connected at the wrong point. Probably also why the lever is tied with the wire. I am also guessing that would explain the comment of the primaries being extremely stiff. I can not see the bottom but I would assume it is not connected correctly.
  2. The spring I am talking about is on the outside. As I recall it was around the primary shaft on the driver side of carb. It is a coil spring that was designed to close the throttles if something went wrong. As a rule if the linkage is all correctly installed it is not even being used. When it trips it takes about 3 times the effort to move the throttles with the pedal. If I recall correctly it was called a throttle redundant system, or some variation of that. Can you post some more pictures of the throttle linkage especially the outside views and I might be able to point it out to you if it was used. It is possible that it was not used on this model I suppose. What I would suggest is put it together and then pull the governor linkage in the direction that it would move, if it closes the throttle plates you should have it together correctly. The governor when it comes into play has to be able to over come the foot pedal to slow down the engine. That is the reason for the fork. It can move the plates open and the governor can pull it closed. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/4150-carburetor-rebuild-kit-k4348 If you go to this site and click on the tech bar it took me to the parts breakdown page. Item 39 shows the spring that I am talking about. Been a few years since I have been into any Holley, but it is starting to come back. While you have this apart it would be a good time to up grade the power valve circuit and install the backfire check valve. It prevents blowing out the power valve. It looks like you need two kits as you have two metering blocks. It is a small ball that goes in the vacuum circuit to the power valve and goes in the throttle base. https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_tune_the_power_valve_in_a_holley_carburetor/ This tells you about that update. Hope this helps. I am on the road for a week or so. I may have some better info when I get home if you still do not have this going by then.
  3. The secondary is opened by vacuum. The linkage does not open the secondary's but actually holds it closed when every thing is correct. You are right you will not be able to control the idle rpm as you have it. The other thing to keep in mind is the linkage has to have slack so the governor can pull the throttles closed when needed. That is the reason for the forked linkage. You should be able to see the wear marks on the throttle linkage at the forks to know how to match it back up. Most of those carbs also have some linkage you have to engage when it is all back together so does not have such a heavy throttle return spring. If you are not sure what I am talking about I will try and find some pictures and post for you.
  4. IHC_1470


    The pendulum system was used on the 151, 403, and 453 hillside combines both 2 way and 4 way leveling. When IH produced the 1470 1670 machines they were only 2 way leveling and used a mercury board system..Hillco from Nezperce, ID built a complete box to replace the mercury system, I believe they used some gyro's to determine the leveling. The 1470 that I run has the Hillco system. It does seem to work a little better than the mercury board did. The 1470 has two leveling speeds depending on how far off level you are. As you get close to level it goes to slow speed. The thing with hillside operations is to not get into a big hurry when turning so the leveling can keep up.
  5. I have had very good luck with the ST1000 from REI. I am pulling out an original IH AM/FM 8 track that still works and am replacing with the ST1000. This will be the third one I have installed.
  6. IHC_1470


    Yes most are auto and usually have some sort of manual over ride.
  7. IHC_1470


    Life is not interesting unless you are on the edge or slope as the case may be. Flat is rather boring for us hill siders.
  8. On the 12 what is the voltage at the batteries? Sounds like the alternator is charging. Need more info on the other tractor.
  9. I am running group 31 in Hydro 84.
  10. Think I would pull the starter. Hot terminal indicates high resistance or excessive starter draw. Had the starter on the combine start just fine and the next time all it did was click. However you could also see the battery cables jump when trying to start it. Different starter solved the problem. Since you say it is the solenoid terminal going into the starter it is also a good possibility that the contacts inside the solenoid are burnt. Usually the first one to go is the battery terminal. If the terminals have not been turned you can turn them 180 degrees and get more life out of the solenoid as a rule. If you have never had the cap off a solenoid you need to take remove the starter and switch terminal nuts so you can push them into the cap as you pull it free as they have wires attached. The battery and the ignition bypass terminals will be OK as they do not have any wires attached to them. If you have a voltmeter you could also see what the voltage is doing when you try to start it. An amp meter for measuring amp draw would also be helpful, not many people have that though.
  11. Of the three 2+2's that I have two of them are just singles. One with 23.1x30 bias ply the other with 18.4Rx38. The 23.1x30 even though on the 3388 will out pull the 3588 with the radials. Just not enough tire on the ground with the 18.4's. Neither tractor is loaded with fluid. Thinking I will put duals on the back of the 3588 in the future. I pull a 13 shank model 55 chisel plow. If I recall correctly it would have been Low 3 direct with the 3388. I have not tried it behind the 3588 so not sure what it would do.
  12. IMO a lot has to do with combustion chamber design. Engines with a pre-chamber always seem to make more noise to me over direct injection.
  13. IHC_1470


    Check with your dealer too. They offer many reprints.
  14. Would that fifth wire by chance been for back up lights that the lens seem to support? Just thinking out side the box.
  15. Do a little research on the subject "Radium Girls" and self-luminous paints.
  16. Thinking of replacing tires on a ST280 Steiger. 24.5x32 Firestones are on it at the moment. Like everything else, at the moment supply seems to be a problem. It appears that Samson has a supply of them. I have some 18.4x30 Samson tires on a H84 and they have been on for several years now and I have been happy with them. Of course they do not get pulled or roaded very much since the tractor is used only for loader work. Any one have experience with Samson in this application? Any other recommendations? I know Firestones are the go to tire if you can get them. While spending the money would radial tires be an improvement or stay with bias tires. Thanks. Dennis
  17. I have pulled mine twice over the years. You may have to lift the motor a small amount. Mine I can not get the belt out and I assume the puck as settled over the years with out lifting it up a small amount. The shaft is tapered, put a little pressure on the pulley and hit the end of the shaft with an air hammer and it pops right off. Leave the nut on shaft to protect the threads.
  18. Why not just remove the pulley? Then you should be able to slid that mess off the end of the shaft.
  19. Yes the yoke is same in the 1010-20 header oil wobble box with the exception there was a change with the pins and bearings at the top end. I would have to look back and see just exactly what was needed with the two pivot pins at the top of the yoke. Do not recall if you go from needle bearings to bushing or the other way. The aftermarket people are selling that part now and I did get one last winter but sent it back. A new arm would not go onto the tapered splines. A used arm would. New from CaseIH the new arm went on fine. Not sure if all the aftermarket shafts have over sized splines or not. Just something to be aware of. The new shaft from CaseIH did require the newer bushing/bearing arrangement which ever way it goes the parts books are not very clear on that small detail. The more I think about it I believe they went to a bushing instead of needle bearing. The holes are smaller in the new yoke shaft. Required new pins to fit bushings the other end of pin was correct size to go into the head.
  20. The hydraulic reservoir is under the seat, pull the cushion and you should see the fill plug. Any good hydraulic oil should be fine in that tractor.
  21. The last cooler that I replaced the oil was coming out the radiator overfull tube due to the pressure difference. Drain the water, remove four bolt and the cooler should be free. Replace the o'rings on the water tubes and the gaskets between the cooler and block. Dawn soap works pretty well to clean the oil out of the cooling system.
  22. Yes just adjust each one until locked and then back off.
  23. I have worked on many dual cylinder trucks over the years. Can not say I ever run into cams on the rear brakes. All have been star wheel adjusters. On the front brakes you adjust the cam in the direction of rotation until wheel locks and then back off until just free. Do that on both top and bottom shoes. I would assume same directions apply for rear if equipped with cams. On rear brakes with star wheels as I recall you pull the handle of the adjuster tool towards the axle to tighten and you go until wheel locks and then back off 3 clicks on used brakes and 5 on new according to the service manuals I used. I usually backed of 4 to 5 clicks on used to give just a bit more clearance. The top adjuster is always the fun one as the spring pack is in the way. Snap-On adjuster S9523 is the best adjuster I have found to make that job a bit easier. I would think a centering tool would be most useful when putting new brakes on. You still have to make a final adjustment once everything is installed. The shoes should center themselves when adjusted tight and then backed off. Your description does sound like brakes out of adjustment.
  24. Finally had a chance to look at the plow today. Mostly it was badly out of level. Think I turned the crank 8 turns to get it level and I am out of adjustment screw travel. The front was quite a bit higher than the rear. Now the plow is only about 3 inches above ground when out. I suspect I am going to have to rebuild the rear lift linkage to get rid of a lot of wear. The other adjustment I made was on the diagonal brace. I shortened it by about an inch. From the tractor seat it did not look like the plow was pulling straight and a tape measure confirmed that. Not sure that made much difference on how it was leaving the furrows and I could not tell any difference in how it pulled but the gps seemed to be much happier with the position of every thing. It does have 16 inch shares installed. After the above adjustments the field appeared to be much more level. Think Dad bought this plow around 1967 so it has had a few acres pass under it. The slots have been built up in the past on the lift rod to the rear wheel. I am thinking of cutting that rod and putting a turnbuckle in the middle so I can adjust it that way. May see if I can find another plow in the area and get some measurements. I would suspect when it was new that it raised quite a bit higher than it does now. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions.
  25. The biggest issue I have with all this is the government push. Lets go back to the early 1900's. At that time as the automobile was becoming a contender in transportation there were at least three forms of power being used to move said automobile. There were those playing with electric power, Stanley Steamer was in the running, and then we had internal combustion engine powered automobiles. Given time the consumer made the choice and internal combustion was the winner. I do not recall the government helping any of these early companies to get a leg up on the competition. The time may have come for EV's to now shine. If that is the case the consumer should be the deciding vote not the government. Is that really the purpose of government anyway?
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