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IHC_1470

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Everything posted by IHC_1470

  1. Friend put some on a D5. Think he got them off EBay. Probably were not top of line. They did not last anytime at all before failing, figured to much vibration from the tracks.
  2. I would be a little careful running that old gas. I know of more than one engine that the valves stuck from varnish after running for about 1/2 hour or so. That would be enough to make a grown man cry.
  3. I tried it one year here. Ended up swathing it to get it to dry down. Everyone told me how bad the straw was to deal with. After swathing when it went through the machine it was just a powder. However swathing it was a different story; 60 acres and I went through 2 sickles to do it. About like cutting wire and wrapped like crazy on the reel. 12 foot header on the swather, can not imagine what the combine header direct cutting would have been like. Was a very interesting crop to say the least.
  4. Youngest daughter is learning to make linen. She needed some tools (equipment) to make it happen and wondered I could help her out. Since I do 99 percent of the equipment repairs here I said yes probably could. Had no idea what I was getting into. Now it is not red but was still fun to do. Still not quite done with the hackles; the boards with all the nails, still making the fine one. I think there are close to 300 finishing nails used to make the fine one. I will cut the medium and course one apart when finished so they can clamped in a vise. Here is a link to how linen was made years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLOPCAJKeLE
  5. I also have a hot water pressure washer which works great for most clean up. However I just purchased from home depot a product called oil eater #206155625 which might be of interest to you. Have not personally tried it out yet and I got it to use in a parts washer. The reviews seem good on the product so time will tell. It looks like you could dilute it and brush or spray on your tractor and than wash off. If you do not have a pressure washer maybe use this stuff and take tractor to a car wash?
  6. There is another way to approach getting the pistons down a little lower if you can find the spec on what they are suppose to be. I had the same issue a few years back with a D246. Believe the deck had to be surfaced about .020 also. Instead of playing around with the tops of the pistons the machine shop redid the bottom end of the rods in effect moving the piston down .020 in the bore. Should not be a problem for a good machine shop to handle.
  7. Steiger put quick connectors in the cooling systems on their tractors not sure if they did it on all the series or not, the Series 3 Cougar that I have still has them on it. Not sure if it was so they could quick fill the cooling systems as they were building them. Not sure I ever saw anyone around here use them for warm up purposes.
  8. Yes. Think it was called Federal Yellow. The construction line was yellow. 4100 tractor was yellow. Sure there were others but what comes to mind at the moment.
  9. I had it many years ago. Remember I was uncomfortable for a bit but did not think it was really that big a deal. Thought about the shot once or twice and that is as far as I went or probably will go.
  10. John primarily did crawler seats and mostly Cat seats. Not sure if he is doing much of that any more due to health issues. He is a good friend and I have had him do work for me in the past. I think he has seats around the world.
  11. Why not just recover what you have? That is what I did on my 1470. Think the total bill was like $110.00.
  12. Anyone have a service manual on the wobble box? Rebuilding a couple and was wondering if they had a specific preload on the timken bearings.
  13. Have you checked with a hydraulic shop by chance. I needed a pump last summer for a Steiger and the local to me shop just made one. About half the price the CaseIH wanted. They indicated they could build most pumps without many issues.
  14. I have no idea what your hoses look like but will throw out this idea which I have used a couple of times when hoses are NLA. Have a muffler shop bend you tubing that fits the shape of your old hose and then just use straight radiator hose to connect at the ends. They can swell the end of the tube if needed to size to the rubber hose and you certainly do not have to worry about it collapsing in use. Just an idea if you can not find the correct hose.
  15. I have quite trying that on my M18. Took the gears out once which they warrantied. Tried it again on another plugged zerk and sounded like they were going to let go again. I like the gun and it has pumped around twelve 35 pound buckets of grease through it now but only in high. Depends on what is plugged sometimes just jacking and taking the load off will get the grease moving again. On a 45 vibrashank the axle pivot shaft can be bad for plugging. Take grease on day and the next maybe not. Usually lowering to the ground and getting the weight off will allow it to take grease again.
  16. I have not checked with Raven yet but it was suggested to me that you set the antenna height to the height of the front axle pivot pin, turn off tilt compensation in the GPS and the machine itself becomes the gyro as it levels back and forth. Makes sense when I think about it.
  17. I have used Romaine Electric quite often for parts.
  18. That is true except often I am not in the machine. I have great hired help yet I have them spoiled with auto steer in the tractor and they do tend to be all over the place at times in the combine. Not sure how long it would take to pay for itself if we could maintain close to a full cut but it would no doubt increase productivity if we could. It is that time of year when one is trying to help the guy in the red suit with ideas😁
  19. Think I will talk to Raven and see what they have to say. Plus do a little more research and see if you can turn the tilt off in the node. I know there are some newer machine running in the area that must be running auto steer although I have no idea what system they would have. So it is possible just not sure what issues that I will have to over come.
  20. The header makes the same width cut no matter how step a hill you are on as it stays even with the ground from side to side. The only variation and it is probably not over 6 inches is when the machine levels they tend to pull the header side ways a small amount. The header pivots at the bottom end of the feeder house but the feeder house moves a little with the machine. This picture give a pretty good idea how far from center the top of cab can get and also you can see how the bottom of the feeder is still pretty level with the ground. As I mentioned earlier in the post the machine itself would actually be taking the place of the tilt gyro. Not sure if it would confuse the system or if it would work just fine. I may just put the EPro in the machine and run it next summer and see what it acts like before I invest in the node and wiring to add the MD unit. I was just planning on transferring the MD unit in and out of the machine as needed but would have the wiring and node permanently installed if it would work.
  21. I bought https://www.ebay.com/itm/372093138161?hash=item56a27ab4f1:g:GI0AAOSwXyxfjs9z this last summer. Had four 23.1x30 tires to do on the 3388. Figure it has all ready paid for itself. Have a slide hammer bead breaker and have broken down the inside bead with it many times but the hydraulic was so much nicer and way easier on my arms and shoulders. IMHO tractor tires are easier to do on the tractor rather than taking them off and having to wrestle with them. You can get about 90 percent of the fluid out by just rotating the valve stem to the bottom and let the tractor down on to the tire. You can probably catch most of it in 5 gallon buckets if you want to save it as it runs out. When it stops jack the tractor back up and rotate valve back to the top break the tire loose from the rim pry the first bead off and pull the tube out. Would not surprise me if you will have to pry the tube free from the rim with a tire iron as it is probably rusted to the rim. When you get most of the tube out rotate the tire and as you do what fluid is left will usually run out into the tube that is hanging outside the tire. After it has transferred you should be able to pull the rest of the tube out. You can take a knife to the tube to get the rest of the fluid out if needed. Finish pulling the tire off the rim take a needle scaler to the rust and if you have a rim good enough to reuse you will be ready to go back together. Probably a three hour job if you have not done it before. Really very little lifting as you can let gravity work for you if rim is still on tractor. Just be sure if you do it yourself that you put the tube in with the valve stem on the right side of the rim for the hole. Don't ask why I know this!
  22. That may have been me. I did put auto steer on the 3388 last summer and discussed the issues I ran into on this forum. What the dealer tech finally figured out was with the cab being on the rear of the tractor that the node was getting confused because the tractor cab was going the wrong direction in the turn compared to a normal articulated tractor. Once the node was moved to the front half of the tractor and the antenna moved forward so it was above the hinge things worked as expected. I would not want to do anything normal or easy what would we have to talk about if that were to happen?
  23. I am considering installing auto steer on the 1470 combine. It would be a Raven EPro system with the MD drive. Question I have is how well would it work with the cab moving several feet left and right of center when on a hill. The other issue with a leveling combine is when they level the header moves a few inches left or right of the line too. You get used to actually moving the steering wheel a little when you feel the machine level, it becomes second nature. Or would you try and mount the antenna out on the end of the header so hopefully it would get a signal with out the machine blocking it. If antenna on top of cab would you turn off the tilt compensation in the computer if that is even possible. Basically the combine itself would be the tilt gyro so maybe I am over thinking the issue. Anyone played around and worked through this issue all ready?
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