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Posted

Hi all ive got a 1980 1086 and i need to have the injection pump rebuilt. Can anyone guide me through a step by step process on how to correctly time the engine and remove the pump. Im mechanical inclined just have never done one on a dt414 thanks

IMG_0967.jpeg

Posted

Wash it up good first or clean off with brake clean and air hose . Remove  the injection lines off the top of the pump and bump the starter over with the throttle on and watch the fuel deliver out the ports . It will rotate counter clockwise and number 1# port is closest to the radiator . Stop turning when you see the fuel coming up out of the port just before number 1 and then finish turning the motor with the fan and belts to 18 degrees .

shut the fuel off at the filters remove the steel lines from the filters to the back of the bump , the the rubber supply hose, and oil supply line  . Unhook the throttle cable and the left front lower side panel so you can remove the remove the cover on the front side of the injection pump . The gear can stay on the pump and then take the nuts off that hold the pump to the front cover / take the one off next to the engine block first / 9/16 “socket , then the bottom bolt 1/2” then the outside one nut and off it comes . After it’s off tip the pump up on its gear end and let the oil drain out before taking it to the fuel shop . 
Danny 

  • Like 3
Posted

Crank dampener pulley. 

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Posted

The timing pointer is at about the 2 o' clock position on the front cover real close to the dampner pulley. Like DirtBoyz07 said, now after #4 pumps fuel out the fitting roll the engine with the fan blade( probably have to tighten the belts ) from the pump side of the engine clean the pulley with brake wash and wire brush. As yo turn the engine a little at a time keep cleaning and you will find the timing marks then align the pointer with 18 degrees mark on the pulley.  What's the reason for removing the pump??

Posted

Injection pump needs a rebuild poor starting on tractor. Requires use of hand primer and cranking over and back and forth to get it to finally catch. 

Posted
2 hours ago, IH 560 farmer said:

Anyone have a picture of the timing marks on the pulley and where is the pointer to line them up

Pointer at the right arrow, and timing marks on the dampener at the left arrow

IMG_6764.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Qc.Can.IH man said:

Pointer at the right arrow, and timing marks on the dampener at the left arrow

IMG_6764.jpeg

Very helpful thank you sir

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, IH 560 farmer said:

Thanks very much danny. Do you time the 18 degree mark on the flywheel or the crank pulley

Either method works -- there is no pointer for the flywheel, but the mark is the centerline of the 2 bolts holding the cover and the centerline of the crankshaft -- just like all of that series of engine 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

Either method works -- there is no pointer for the flywheel, but the mark is the centerline of the 2 bolts holding the cover and the centerline of the crankshaft -- just like all of that series of engine 

Thank you sir

Posted

Another method to determine number one on that pump (and my choice) is to remove the small cover on the side of the injection pump

Rotate the engine and watch thru the cover for the drive pin on the gear that turns the pump head -- get low and look upward
when you see the drive pin -- not the mark
Continue to rotate the engine to 18 degrees

This will put the pump on the number one compression stroke
now remove the pump 

The rebuilt pump will come with the lock screw installed , and set to 18 degrees 
Be sure to remove the lock after installing the pump -- likely there will be a tag on the pump explaining this 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, IH 560 farmer said:

Hi all ive got a 1980 1086 and i need to have the injection pump rebuilt. Can anyone guide me through a step by step process on how to correctly time the engine and remove the pump. Im mechanical inclined just have never done one on a dt414 thanks

IMG_0967.jpeg

Installation Instructions...

AMBAC 100 Install and Time_001.JPG

AMBAC 100 Install and Time_002.JPG

AMBAC 100 ReTiming..JPG

  • Like 3
Posted
34 minutes ago, Maynard said:

Installation Instructions...

AMBAC 100 Install and Time_001.JPG

AMBAC 100 Install and Time_002.JPG

AMBAC 100 ReTiming..JPG

This method is what I always used. Turn them up on timing mark. Pull pump off. Have pump fixed and it was usually returned on same spot it was removed. I no fire after turning a bit . Take gear bolts out turn pump one turn and away we go. Quick and fast. Took probably  150 ih 100s off over years probably 25 times it was out one turn.

  • Like 2
Posted

50/50 shot on those engines if it will be on the correct compression stroke when the timing marks are aligned

Easy to get correct by looking for the drive gear pin before removing the pump , as I described 

I just do not like doing a job more than once -- so the time it takes to look for that pin is minimal 

  • Like 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, HydroTek said:

50/50 shot on those engines if it will be on the correct compression stroke when the timing marks are aligned

Easy to get correct by looking for the drive gear pin before removing the pump , as I described 

I just do not like doing a job more than once -- so the time it takes to look for that pin is minimal 

Not to be mean or anything. I was never trained as a technician so quick and fast and be done was order of the day.

this reminds me of the many v8  gas engines I installed. Usually last thing I would do is turn cam timing marks up away from each other to be on 1. But if it was a long block look at lifters and set it to 1 or just take your chances. I never put dist in until engine was in for clearance at bell housing bolts.

over the years taking pumps off like was posted you would get people ask about those marks. Other people had told them they needed to do it like that I just did it my way.

Posted

LoL, you would have to try a lot harder to be mean to me

Quick and fast is what it takes -- but also do it right the first time

Any re-do in the shop (or field) costs money out of the Mechanics pocket 

This pump job is pretty simple to get right -- and done once 

you may have been lucky a few times -- but those times that the job had to be done again cost 

On the other hand, I cant count how many times I have went out to the Farm and re-done work 
...I suppose that has put money in my pocket -- but the aggravation level was high 

Posted

That paint scheme came out late in the 86's. If that's a 81 model 1086 it may be a b series engine.  Timed at 15 degrees from factory. But 18 wouldn't hurt. 

Posted

I always found it way faster to align the timing marks before removing anything, then try to figure it out later.  Applies to all motors.  The Ambac was great because the mark inside the pump window was easy to access.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

That paint scheme came out late in the 86's. If that's a 81 model 1086 it may be a b series engine.  Timed at 15 degrees from factory. But 18 wouldn't hurt. 

It appears to be a Triple Stripe 81 model. I thought the B Series arrived in 1979.

Literature dive time or I might not sleep tonight...

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, IH 560 farmer said:

I believe the tractors an 80 or an 81. So should i set timing to 15 degrees

Check the stamping on the engine -- milled flat pad also has the serial number
if it has 415 , then a C model
if 414B , well a B model 

Posted

I know nothing about your 1086 pump .

This isn’t what you asked for.

I do suggest you have someone that rebuild that does on a regular basis ihc pumps.
id ask how many of these pumps have you done? 
do not use the cheapest !

again not what you asked but my jobber told me how to remove ,ship and install , did exactly as he told me. 
got pump back and it installed , It has run excellent ever since. Best money I have spent on the 560 .

my opinion , when I had no experience what is in need of pump rebuild , I got the best I could find on this site at the time. 
 

 

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Posted

AI's opinion.

 

The switch to the "B" series engine (DT-414B) on the International Harvester 1086 tractor generally occurred with the 1980/1981 "Tri-Stripe" models. While specific, universally accepted engine-to-tractor serial number breaks can be difficult to pinpoint, the "B" series engines were implemented during the later years of production, with 1981 models (starting around serial number 51671 or higher) typically featuring the updated engine. 
image.png.b928ede03a0ff90bf4021961d5d30c13.pngRed Power Magazine +4
Key Information on Engine Identification:
  • Engine Identification: To definitively determine if you have a "B" series, look at the engine model/serial number stamped into the cylinder block on a flat surface on the left side, below the intake manifold.
  • Engine Model Numbers:
    • DT414: "A" series engine (earlier models).
    • DT415: "B" series engine (later models/1981).
  • "B" Series Improvements: The "B" series engines often had less blow-by at idle and improved reliability compared to the earlier engines.
  • Tractor Series Changes: 1980-1981 models featured further upgrades, including "tri-stripe" decals and improved hydraulics. 
    image.png.7bbb8bb8f4050385eb1ef2cb6143532c.pngRed Power Magazine +4
If you are looking for specific engine parts, verifying the engine block number (DT414 vs DT415) is more reliable than using the tractor's serial number. 
  • Like 1

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