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About RBootsMI

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    St. Johns, MI
  • Interests
    Logging, trucking, diesel power, Oliver, IH, and Silver King tractors

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  1. Yeah, every area is different and has different needs. It's not that dry here. If we have to rip up a road when it's dry we use our carbide scarifier teeth on our trucks, but will brine it immediately after to lock it down. That really sucks, nice roads are so much better for everyone. Not that you should, but people always tell us that you can drive 60 on our gravel roads just like the paved roads. I tell them that's great and all, but please don't, since it tears them up sooner.
  2. I guess I should have said that yes, if you have a good maintenance program, trucks work great for scraping roads. If you have 2 tracks called roads, then no, they probably wouldn't lol. We have 16 drivers so that helps, and also we only have to scrape spring and fall mostly, since early in summer and mid summer we scrape all of our roads for brine, that way you don't have to mess with them most of the summer. If you don't brine them, all that dust blowing away is all your binder, so you're just left with a bunch of stone, which isn't a good road anyway. Some of our townships get 3 applications of chloride over the summer, very little maintenance needed after that.
  3. Our county has 1138 miles of roads, but only about 900 miles of gravel roads. Each territory is a township and a quarter, and each territory has a driver with a scraper truck. That person scrapes the roads, cuts the trees, mows the roadsides, patches the potholes, and plows the roads. We have 2 graders in the county, and one operator. The other grader is a back up. It is not usually used for scraping roads as that's what the trucks are for, although it does occasionally get used for scraping. It normally is used for winging back the really badly drifted roads in winter, and it's job all summer is laying down new gravel on roads that are being regraveled, usually about 150 miles a year. I'd say most of the 50 miles of gravel roads in the area I take care of by myself get scraped around at least 10 times a year. Some don't get traveled as heavy, so they might only have to be scraped 4 times a year or so. Poor maintenance of a road is what causes it to take more maintenance to be nice. All roads I scrape get a minimum of 6 passes during scraping, usually do about 8-10 miles a day. The adjoining county of mine has trucks, but they have guys that dont know how to scrape with a truck very well either, so they do most of their scraping with graders. Which is fine, but they don't get over them very often, so their roads are usually trash. A good gravel program helps a road as well, very important, but it must be done.
  4. Trucks are only awful for grading roads if you aren't doing it properly or at the right time. Too dry, it'll never set down. My territory has 50 miles of gravel roads I grade. With 16 different territories in this county that are graded with trucks, I'd have to say that it works just fine. A spring ride or camelback suspension will for sure not grade a road as well as a truck with air ride. The spring rides and camelback suspension trucks will feed whatever the suspension is doing right to the underbody, they cause a lot of chop, but it can be done no problem if you know what you're doing.
  5. Central MI. The passenger side of my sideplow is about 6.5' tall. No chains unless we are trying to peel only ice after an ice storm. We had 2 ice storms the preceding days before these pictures. That little snow pile in the middle of the road in the one pic is about 4' high, had to clear a little to get a good run at it from the intersection. The last pic is a few hours after I already made a pass down both sides of this gravel road, drifts are already over waist deep. 250 miles of plowing at an average of 40 mph each day. Did that every single day except the last 3 for the last 3 weeks. If it got bad I'd go back and get my Vee plow. That is about 7' high and will throw the banks higher and farther than a sideplow. I only use the sideplow to get a full lane width clear on both sides, you can't do that with a Vee. At 70,000+ pounds, I can pull more with full lockers than a grader, especially on ice. I'm carrying about 18.5 ton in the box for traction. Had to pull out 2 trucks last week that the grader couldn't because of the ice underneath. But I have a reserve of built in traction in the box.
  6. RBootsMI

    Not a good day to be an Oscar Meyer wiener

    Don't stick your fingers where you wouldn't stick your..... weiner. Ross PS, did they get the weiner pulled out in time? (For the next gig), geez !
  7. RBootsMI

    Broken bolt in bell housing

    It will be hard, but a good mill should be able to gnaw through that with a good bit. Take it to a machinist, have them mill it out right to where it would be almost into the threads. Steel is hard, and can be made harder by heating, but can also be made softer by heating. A good machinist with quality tooling can get that. Ross
  8. Those TD7's are a good machine, probably a better machine than the old style TD9. Parts availability for the machine itself is pretty good, and 4B parts are dirt cheap. I obviously can't see the rollers, idlers, and pins and bushings, but if the rails and sprockets on both sides look like the one in the picture, they are in very good shape. Yeah, track adjuster shaft is rusty, pads are worn down, not a big deal. I did have a full set of 14" pads for a TD7 that were like brand new, and a full set of 24" pads off a D5C Cat that were brand new take offs, but after trying to sell them very reasonably for a long period of time, they both went as short iron last spring when the prices were up. The average price of one new track pad used to be around $25-35 each, around 10 years ago when I gave up wrenching on that stuff for a living. Ross
  9. RBootsMI

    Another fine mess i got myself into..

    At least it has a body on it!! If that was in Michigan it wouldn't have a frame or body left on it to restore lol
  10. RBootsMI

    Black walnut log value

    Price is all over the place really. Had an arrow straight 32" diameter 24' long walnut log I cut and sold about 4 years ago. Got $1800 for it at the mill, only walnut in the bunch of 50 logs I cut and hauled in. 2 years ago I cut one that I sold in one piece as a 31' log. I haul Walnut that way to the mill, that way they can cut it in the length they want. It had 2 crooks in the log, each one at 10 ft intervals, so essentially it had 3- 10 ft logs in it. The butt log was a veneer log, the middle log was a #1, and the log on the top, the smallest, was 14" at each end, and was just a regular old saw log. I got $800 for the whole thing, only because I got a premium from it since the Asian buyers happened to be there and wanted it, otherwise it'd been a $5-600 log. My dad's cousins own the local mill, so they treat me pretty good. Honestly, the price of timber and saw logs is way down compared to what it was last spring, when it was the highest it had been in 10-15 years. I was getting $ .75 a board foot for soft maple, up to $1.40 board foot for good red oak and white oak. It ain't like that now, the prices have dropped a ton since the trade war with China came in to effect.
  11. RBootsMI

    Pickup Glider Kit

    How's the mileage on the new stuff? Let's make the engine a couple liters larger to make up for the power loss from the emissions stuff. But wait! It uses more fuel?!? The 2001 Lumina I used to drive would consistently get 33 mpg. Now, it seems you have to drive one of those tiny tuna can cars for the manufacturer to brag about that kind of mileage. My 96 250 Ford has 302,000 miles on it, gets 10,000 mile oil changes with 15-40 dino oil, and will still pull 20-21 mpg if I don't drive like an A-hole. It will start in sub zero temps if I can't plug it in, and it would sure cost a lot less to fix at a body shop in a front end collision as a newer vehicle. Some of the digital heater controls on the early - mid 2000 vehicles are getting hard to find, and expensive. A part like that is dealer only, and the dealer isn't gonna carry it forever. All this electronics stuff is going to do, is cause everyone to buy more used cars when you have to knock it in the head do to driveability problems due to electronics. We have a brand new Peterbilt that has been to 2 dealers that will start and run some days, and most days it wont start. They both had figured it was the ecm by the feedback from the diagnotic software. After an ecm replacement, nothing has changed. We've had this stupid truck for 4 months and it's spent 3 months at the dealer. We don't go by mileage, we go by hours, it has 56 hours on it. If this thing didn't have all this electronics crap on it, it'd be a pretty easy diagnosis for it, but it seems like it's just like some of the new cars, the logic isn't working right, and no one knows why. The newer Freightliners we have are 10 times worse than the Peterbilt. We have 6 that cannot seem to go a month without a check engine light and de-rate for an emission issue, or caused by an electronic issue somewhere.
  12. RBootsMI

    Gasket sealer on chainsaw

    Ah yes, Yamabond. I also see that when I typed in 'moto seal' it auto corrected and I didn't catch it!
  13. RBootsMI

    unemployment benefit ?

    Same here Pete. Patching potholes, plowing snow, cutting back roadsides. More snow=less tree removal and more snow plowing. Less snow=more tree cutting and less snow plowing. Ross
  14. RBootsMI

    Gasket sealer on chainsaw

    If you don't want to order anything if your local parts store doesn't stock much loctite stuff, any part store should have something called 'moto Deal. It's in a small tube like silicone would come in, gray in color. Crankcase halves, saw jug to crankcase, that's what the actual intended use for this stuff is. It works real well, I've used it for a long time on all of the saws I've built, rebuilt, pieced together, etc. Also use it on my dirt bike, motorcycle, and quad projects where this type sealer is designated for use instead of a gasket.
  15. Need to join up with farm bureau, run for director or board member. The wreck it all foreigner mega dairies around me have family members that are board members in Farm Bureau and other such groups. Lobbyist groups. Not that this involves crops, but sort of same deal. If they can get something agreed upon, passed, looked upon as a smarter choice whether it is or not, you can bet that it isn't going to benefit someone like you or me. It's going to benefit guys like them that have 25,000 dairy cows, and the bto sell outs that provide them with the materials to expand more, and take over smaller guys. When they run for a board position, or seat on a panel, and people that don't know them are voting, most probably think these guys know what they are doing since they are so "successful". Getting government grants by being considered a foreign business startup here in the US would be sure to give an advantage. When was the last time you were given millions to start up your farm? Change the name of your farm and try it, I'll bet it won't change anything. You're a "small", domestic farmer, not the one they want you to be.