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RBootsMI

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Everything posted by RBootsMI

  1. Maybe not funny, but funny you say that. My brother works on the turbines, and within a week or 2 of them coming on line, he told me he wasn't allowed to tell me what kind of bird it was, but that it was a huge brown bird with a white head that got wiped out by a turbine blade. Their policy is that they have to report it, and where it was and all, to the appropriate agency, whoever that is. They had to pay, I think he said, a $15,000 or $20,000 fine. I hit more birds with my truck in a year than those things with kill in their lifetime
  2. Without really seeing the tree, that log in the bottom of your first pictures is either Butternut or Black Ash.
  3. That how you guys do it over there?? Strange...?
  4. Who knows how it will go now, but my local Carquest is a dealer for SK stuff. If I break a gearset in a ratchet, I can take the new parts with me and do it myself if I need it right away, which is what I always do, or I can leave it there and their rep will get it and fix it his next time around, which usually is about every 3 weeks. I broke the housing around the head where the gears are on my long handle half inch ratchet and they just handed me a new ratchets, said it was warranty and they would give it to their rep to take care of. I see a lot of articles lately about the Chinese loaning money to poor nations with ridiculous terms, "debt traps" if you will, to places that have valuable resources, lumber, ports, precious metals. If the country can't pay it back, the Chinese can assume control over the resources or area per their agreement until they are fully compensated in their eyes (never).
  5. didn't know that, luckily every pair I have are the originals US ones.
  6. I switched from full time heavy equipment mechanic and welder 10 years ago to full time truck driver. I work on stuff on the side when I have time, I don't advertise, I don't have to ask for work, and I rarely work for people I don't know. I have work for the rest of my life if I want it. I'd still rather drive truck now-a-days.
  7. Upper rollers get like that when people don't shovel out their tracks. Looked at some excavators for a friend when he was buying one, could always tell who was BS'ing me when they said they always kept their tracks shoveled off.
  8. RBootsMI

    Ken Shaffer

    I laid mine down after some idiot pulled out in front of me and I almost rear ended them. Last I remember was watching my bike slide away from me and hit a curb on its side as I slid down the highway kneeling, then rolling onto my back before I went into some landscaping. You're right though, at least trees won't pull out in front of you unexpected, or make a poor turn.
  9. Copper Harbor and Brockway Mountain Drive are worth the drive up the Keweenaw if you get bored on your way to Ironwood. Those big ol boats sure are amazing. Back in my heavy equipment repair days, the dealer I worked for sent me and another guy to the limestone mine in Rogers City, which I think is still the largest limestone mine in the world. We worked up there 2 winters in a row, rebuilding their 2 seven foot cone crushers, one each winter. Nearer spring, when the boats were back moving on the lake, at lunch or break I would walk out the back door of the crusher plant and onto the dock where the freighters and tug barges would pull in to get loaded. It seemed like there was only about 8 feet between the boat and the concrete docks on each side of the biggest boats, you could almost touch it. The huge conveyors at the mine would swing out and load, and load, and load for hours, and you could watch the draft markings on the hull disappear as she took on the limestone. I believe it was around 30 feet of draft. I was told that the water depth in the dock was 60 feet deep, and it sure looked it. The crusher plant was 12 floors high if I recall, and you could go up there and look down at the boat being loaded and get a great view of what was going on. One of the sailors offered to let me have an up close look on the boat, but I didn't have a TWIC card like the other guys around there, and apparently that is needed to get onto the boat. I would have loved to get up there while it was in action. The amount of material one of those things will hold is astronomical. It wasn't a great job, but I sure got to make a lot of memories over the years. Enjoy your MI trip!
  10. How much rain did you end up with? We got 10" last week spread over about 3 or 4 days. It washed stuff out, but it wasn't too bad since it had been so dry it soaked a lot of it up, but we still have a lot of standing water and the river is well over it's banks. I spent all week trying to fix the gravel roads that got beat up from 4 days of rain with cars hammering them. Did you have crops planted in those flooded fields?
  11. Yes, if you just have to fix a few links, and your tracks are tired, using master pins and bushings are an ok way to get by. Now, you can make any bushing you have a master bushing by trimming the ends flush with the link, but if the bushings are broke through, they're trash. Bushings (master type) can be installed on a link in the field with 2- 8 pound hammers, one in each hand. Have to be master bushings since you'd just be driving them on until they're flush with the edge of the link. Obviously you can't set bushing depth of a regular length bushing on a link with sledges. You can also press the bushings on in a regular shop press if they're master type, if not you could use big sockets so the bushing will push through the link into the socket, you'd use the socket on one side with a flat plate on the other until you're depth is good on one side, then move the socket and the flat plate to the opposite side of the link to set the depth of that side as well. One thing to remember, if you're doing this in the field, you use the master bushing technique since regular bushings won't pass between the links on the adjoining link, unless you're using a portable press to push each link on as you go. Much easier on marginal tracks to just push the bushing end of a pair of links together in mating pairs and then driving a pin through them on the machine. Always hand drive pins through at the sprocket, halfway up the sprocket, that's the easiest way, and always have the pad bolted onto the link that has the pin boss you're driving the pin through, otherwise you'll just be spreading the link trying to drive the pin through. You can hand drive a regular pin, they'll just drive hard all the way through, unlike a master pin that is slightly turned down in the center. Cool the pins and warm the links before you drive them if you're not a good sledge operator. A worn pin can be reused if need be and if it isn't too wore out, and is just like a master pin. It'll drive easy since the center is worn down. Also, remember, always wrap the tracks under the machine, bushing end goes under first. Start the bushing end under the sprocket, no pad on that link only, hook a good long chain to that end bushing, run it up and over the front idler and over the tcr's, and next to the sprocket. Now pull straight back on it until you can get it up on top of the sprocket. If you have to stop and rehook shorter, go for it. Get that bushing link pulled around far enough it will land on the center of the rear of the sprocket. Oh yeah, release the track adjuster fitting if it's grease, or back the adjuster all the way off before you pull the track over. Leave the pad off that first link, that will allow you to swing your hammer through that gap to drive the pin in. Set the machine down on the rail before it starts to pull the pin end of the rail too far underneath the machine. If you're by yourself, no machine to wrap tracks, you can usually wrap the tracks the way I described, but wrap the end of the chain around the final drive or sprocket to winch it up and over, just chain it right so you don't tear anything up as the chain spins around. If you're just trying to get by for a while, master pin and master bushing fix will work just fine. If the pins are loose because the links are whopped, run a weld around them. And welding a broken link is just fine, they weld easy, and work just as good. If you want to do it right with all new pins and bushings, pay someone to do it, there is a reason track press tooling has tooling for all different sized pins and bushings with all different depths for each to set them just so. If they aren't pressed to the right depth on either, the pads won't fit. If you have time to kill, and the ability to make tooling to set the depth correctly on the pin and bushing at the same time, a shop press would work, but a whole rail is a lot to handle without a roller bed to set the rail on. It would be very time consuming. Tooling and saddles were constantly getting worn out, and most saddles were around $1500, and all of the track tooling was around $35,000. With the right tooling, an actual track press with a roller bed to lay the rail out on, I could run both sets of medium sized dozer tracks up on the press, take the pads off, press them apart, press the new pins and bushings back in, and bolt the pads back on in anywhere from 8-10 hours. Most dozer tracks were narrow enough you only had to take the bolts out of one side and leave one of the links bolted to the pad, that saved a lot of time. Could do that on machines that had pads less than 30". Clear as mud right?
  12. Ah good ol' Chinese Elm. Only good for making a guy that doesn't know to properly file his chain feel like he knew what he was doing when the entire bar sinks into it and it cuts like a homesick beaver.
  13. Before I became a full time truck driver I used to be a heavy equipment and truck mechanic. However, I started out busting tracks. Hundreds or thousands of sets. Repair, replace, rebuild, did it all. Ran a 250 ton track press, used it to pin and bush old rails, press apart seized up rails that had set too long without enough internal wear to prevent them from rusting together. Did pins and bushings on a D375 and PC750 Komatsu down to a Ditch Witch trencher. Installed the last available set of aftermarket JD P&B's in a JD 40 crawler, installed what JD said was the last OEM JD P&B's they could find in their parts database in a JD 420 crawler. They couldn't use aftermarket, because like stated, I used the last aftermarket set anywhere in a 40C for someone else. I remember those pins and bushings for that 420C that came from JD were sold individually, and each pin and each bushing came in its own little John Deere bag with the part number on it. If I remember correctly, the bushings were $28 each and the pins were $24 each at the time (15 years ago). We had one of those portable pin presses like shown above, I never knew how to use it, or the interest in learning how, I busted almost every track by myself with an 8 pound sledge with a 2' handle, a propylene rosebud and a pin hammer. Heat it, hold pin hammer in one hand, swing the 8 pounder with the other. Once they move a little they come right out as long as you don't swedge the pin over. Broke PC400 track routinely by myself. I always chuckled when I saw someone else use that portable pin press. Not only because I could have my track split by hand before they could have the portable press out of its case. But also because that portable press had a pressure gauge on the port a power that was hooked to it that was green, yellow, and red. It said in big letters on the side of the press "IF YOU'RE IN THE RED, YOU'RE PUSHING YOUR LUCK!!!". I loved seeing that phrase every time someone got it out.
  14. I have a feeling I know of the most recent one that you're thinking of.
  15. no no no, don't you know the only ones that were traitors were the south for seceding from the union because they didn't want the govt telling them how to live their lives. Oh wait, neither do these idiots, they just want the govt money to live on, just don't tell them what to do. Hypocrites.
  16. Dad used to have 3 404's at one time, I never paid much attention to them though. I do remember them being an interesting tractor, being so small with a 3 point. I used one of them to plow in my dog fence at one time 15 years or so ago. They're all gone now. Thanks for the info, I'm gonna check a couple salvage yards nearby and see what they have on hand. I drive right past Worthingtons every day and know all the guys in there, I'll stop in and see what's hiding around there. Ross
  17. I'm in central MI, so not too far north. I'm not sure if I want to mess with this thing or not. He says make him an offer, I hate that. I saw a couple on online auctions recently that sold for 12-1500. Yes this one has like new tires and a loader, but the rear end housing is cracked 90% of the way from top to bottom, thats not gonna be a 2 hour fix obviously no matter how its done. I would bet if I offered him $1000 for it he'd say no. Maybe not, but that's the feeling I get. We'll see, I'll keep you in mind if I get this thing and can't find anything nearby. I appreciate the replyear Ross
  18. I had a Galion 118 grader that had a little bit smaller engine than your 18, it had a UD554 engine. When I got it the lower radiator hose was off and the radiator and block were full of mice nests. I tore apart the radiator and cleaned and resealed it, and flushed and flushed the block until it came out clean, although there was just no way to get everything out of the places you couldn't reach. It ran great, worked great until one day it got a hot spot and cracked a head. I believe a part of a mouse nest that I didn't get out got moved somewhere it didn't belong, and it made a hot spot that cracked the head. I was always real careful about start up and shut down. Anyway, I was able to have the water pump rebuilt, but it took about 6 months until they were able to figure out what to do with it since parts weren't available. They found a shaft/bearing that would work or be made to work, and I believe had the ceramic seal custom made. They said they hadn't done one like it as long as any of the old boys could remember. As long as the impeller is good, somebody should be able to redo it somehow. I sold my engine minus the new clutch, injection pump, and water pump for parts to a fellow in Utah I believe. Seems this guy built WD9 engines, (maybe for pulling? I can't remember...) as the 554 supposedly used the same impossible to find rods, sleeves, pistons, valves, as the WD9 engines. Anyway, I sold the rebuilt water pump to a fellow from southern Illinois that had the same 118 Galion. Still have the high dollar new clutch setting on the shelf (who knows why?) and I still have the injection pump, an A pump like yours, that worked great when it cracked the head. It has been setting on the shelf for about 4 years, it was filled with oil when I did. If you get in a tough place and can't get it going, if you wanted to pay shipping on it (it's heavy), I could send it to you to see if it still works ok. If it does we can figure something out, if not, you could keep it for parts. Just an idea if you get into a tough spot.
  19. I found most times you can cross the bearing numbers online, verify the dimensions, then search the Timken, SKF, or New Departure number on Ebay. Many many times you can find the bearing you're looking for as a NOS bearing. It may be 50 years old, but brand new in it's old yet dilapidated Timken or SKF box. I only buy the ones that have the actual picture of that bearing itself, just to make sure it's not rusty, and I like to see in the picture where it says it's made in USA or some other first rate country, not China. I did the same thing with my Silver King transmission, rear end, and final drives, and a quote from the local auto parts store where I get a decent discount, and the bearings were around $1200. I bought all of them except 2 that I couldn't find on Ebay for $350. It has definitely been worth my time.
  20. I know of a guy that has a 240 Utility tractor with a 2001 loader on it. It's a pretty nice loader and tractor, has a weight bucket on the rear and all. And a broken rear end housing that is most likely because of this. I would think a 2001 loader is an awful lot of loader for a 240U myself. Anyway, I know there weren't a lot of 240s built compared to the others of that style, and most likely even less so 240 Utilities, I can say I've ever seen another one around me. He wants me to make him an offer on it, has new rear tires too, but I'm guessing that the whole rear end/ transmission assembly isn't going to be easy to find, let alone nearby. Are there any models that the rear end assembly is the same that would interchange, like a 424 or 504? I wouldn't mind buying this thing and saving it, but not if I can't find a rear end for it, or if it costs twice as much as the tractor because they're hard to find.
  21. Now they 'hire' people to stay at home...
  22. I'm in Gratiot, we don't pick up the deer, just drag them off the road. We had 33 in a 2 mile stretch at the end of winter a couple years back. Those stupid things are thick around here as well.
  23. We have to keep all the old non emissions trucks as spares at work to use when we ask too much of our new emissionized, electronic trucks. Plowing snow on 250 miles of county roads a day is very hard on trucks, and when you jam that snow everywhere and it melts, guess what? The truck is either gonna be dead or derated for sure, happens every winter, to every one of our new trucks. So I walk out to our back barn and get my old 15,000+ hour Sterling with it's original C12, and plow. It might not be as fast or powerful, but at least it starts and won't derate on you.
  24. Very nice job, I like the gas tank fix. Sometimes you just gotta do what ya gotta do to get something working again. A fix like that, and the radiator will work just fine for what it will be used for now.
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