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About cbfarmall

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  1. cbfarmall


    I used a $20 aftermarket Harley coil in place of the oem $150ish coil. Been running that way for 2 years now. Not a pretty install but effective and cheap and reliable.
  2. I have to correct this after some thinking. The plate for the oil pan bolts is over the cap and that plate bolts to the seal retainer which is impossible to access without a split.
  3. I just had my C281 apart and saw no reason you couldn't roll in main from underneath once the pan and that rear pan plate thingy is removed. Might get a little tight at the back, against the bell housing plate, however. Chris B.
  4. That didn't seem likely, but OK.
  5. If you did decide to use a 450 carb on the SM, you will have to swap choke shafts. SM uses a pull rod, 450 has a cable. If you want a bigger carb, I hear the W9 carbs are a step up in size. Don't quote me on that, though.
  6. For whatever reason, the 450s are a personal favorite, even though they are a bit of a dinosaur for the time. I was happy to get an original LP model. Missing plenty of parts but it had alot of the ones that counted.
  7. Should mention that the Behlen PW steering motor, which I resealed last year, promptly started leaking out of the front o-ring. Shaft didn't feel bad and there was a tiny bit of play in the needle bearings but I tried an equivalent sized quad ring and that completely stopped the leak. Also, when I bolted the motor back in, I made sure the shafts were lined up and tightened the brackets before the couplings. One hour of mowing in 90 degree weather and it stayed dry. I'll call that a win.
  8. Shot in the dark, but did you check the valve selectors if they are in between one way/two way pressure positions. That and maybe the little traction control thingy with the spider gears that I always hear about.
  9. I haven't had to get into the rear/trans of one of these yet. Closest I got was replacing a bad pilot bearing on the input shaft of the diesel. None of them make any noise, so.... Did both clutches on the diesel and LP, TA on the diesel. Far as the points cam lobe, it's probably a cautionary tale to lube the fiber rub block on new points. How else could that happen? I couldn't sell a tractor I just did all your work on, unless that was my intent from the outset. Chris B.
  10. I guess whoever had mine ignored the crack and leak for a long time and the crack propagated to the camshaft bore. I was under the impression this was a replacement block for all the proper applications not just a repurposed power unit motor. The date code shows it as a 1968 casting. Pretty sure the big 4 cylinder gassers were well obsolete by then. Anyway, thanks. Chris B.
  11. I was also a bit surprised to find the points cam worn out. Never encountered this one. The distributor bushings were tight, so I cleaned it up and reassembled with a good cam and new advance springs. It has the proper LPG 16 degree advance plate/rotor. I'd love to find whoever owned this tractor before and ask him if it was a personal enemy. Between the bucket of junk I unbolted, the worn cam, filthy block from using drain oil, and all the hillbilly repairs some either loved or hated this thing. I still have the right rear rim to swap. Loaders are very useful for breaking down beads I've discovered.
  12. Putting the front end together took the whole morning. I was rewarded with an easy start up that afternoon. Engine maintains 60 psi +. At first, it ran quite poorly, very lean on the high and low sides. Closing the choke would smooth it out considerably. Went back thru the LP regulator and reset the low pressure lever to the proper height. The hydraulics didn't prime readily. Instead of waiting it out, I ran some oil into the plug on top of the pump. Before I tore it apart, the clutch would slip. So, the TA got a new clutch and IPTO shaft. New main clutch and plate and flywheel surfaced. The TA definitely works and pulls in 5th low.
  13. At this point my buddy came over to help me fly the motor, rails, and bolster back on and set the head in the place. I replaced a couple head studs with some aftermarket specials, but not cheap. Turns out none of those studs would take 110 ft-lbs torque so they all came out and the originals went back in. I had to use, temporarily, a grade 8 bolt to replace the one broken original stud. I used the IH method of setting valve lash 4 at a time. It was easy to find TDC on #1 this way and install the distributor.
  14. This motor is first time I've had the privilege of installing one of these rear seals. It is a bit of a soup sandwich as my friend would say. Seems like 10 people will have 10 opinions on the best way to assemble one. I had already taken the time to flatten the seal retainer which was pretty badly warped.
  15. Mains were all plastigauged at .003, rods were .0015.
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