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Piero's Achievements


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  1. Hi .... We need to replace our FarmAll M tractor, mostly to brushhog our fields. Our brush hog is an older 72" Woods brand that requires 30 to 35 HP at the PTO shaft. What newer (than the M) FarmAll tractor would fit the bill ?? My wife would like it to be more compact than the M, where she seats hi above ground and find it unsafe. Thanks to all.... pierre*
  2. What i notice here seems to corroborate what you say 560Dennis.... as i'm finding that some parts that were looser immediately after the dunking are now harder to move. Makes me nervous.... !? If it'd be spring or summer still, that wouldn't be a problem, but with winter at the doorsteps i'll just have to hope for the best !!!
  3. i do i need to say it again; thanks to all and everyone whose opinions/suggestions helped me in sorting out this mess. ???
  4. I wrapped it up as per Duntongw insights on Friday... ; xtra mucho well oiled everywhere. (and just about as much Dragon's Milk (a dark beer) ingested !!) Then upon awakening yesterday i had a “AH-HA !!” moment…. and went outside again to unwrap my "Night before Xmas " surprise ? ! I then proceeded to dislodge the clutch by putting a long rod in my hammer drill and bumping the flywheel/clutch assembly. Lotsa PB Blaster on the splines of the shaft... and kept at it now and then, and resting for a few hours inbetween hammering sessions. Well -->It worked !!! The clutch is free !!! The engine is still not as easy to turn as before the accident though, but a lot easier than just after. The tranny thus seems OK... yeahhhh ! My guess is that M's engine only need a in-situ rebuild, and that would be a nice spring-days job…. I'll leave the clutch wedged in so i don't have to deal with a stucked one again in 6 months. I got the tricycle gear out of the grainery… and will check it out to see if the wide front wheels fits. I got the front bucket brackets/supports on wheels, and will try to haul that assembly out of the way when the weather gets better later this week. Then jack the front section of the Farmall and 1- remove the wide front, 2- install the tricycle (if it fits…). Then, and thus "ready", i'll forget it once again till April/May, when i'll be able to rebuild that engine... fingers crossed still ! If, after rebuilding the engine, everything checks out OK.. i could switch back to the wide front end before reinstalling the blade.... At least i now see a clear path to recovery...
  5. I'll wrap it up tomorrow... ; oil and protect as much as i can, as Duntongw wisely suggests. (i've bought Fluid-film, spray type Cosmoline, Stabil fogging oil, and have cans of Beoshield B9 and another one that i forget the name at this time... and will report what worked best in the spring) But i'll still have another go at trying to dislodge that clutch. I'll de driving thru Wisconsin quite a few time these coming months, and could try a different country route everytime, just to see if i can find a parts donor tractor if so needed. But for that i need to know what else is wrong, ie: is the tranny good or not !? It can't be split at the moment because of that damn broken front end; as the front wont roll as it is, and where its at just doesn't make it any easier, + that freaking snow wayyy ahead of its regular due time.... duh, & F#*% ! I guess that i'll be "practicing my patience" . .. ... ....
  6. thx iowaboy....what you say jives with everything on this end. Just that i had hoped to only rebuild the engine without splitting the tractor... but so are the dices thrown !! I'll cover the whole shebang for the winter, and check things out again when the snow melts next spring. So my next question (to the group/forum..); what sort of winterizing can i do to mitigate further damages.. ? I'll have the winter to re-rebuild all removable parts... which is OK. How may separate the clutch from the flywheel (??)... as that once done i could possibly see (by isolating it.. ) if the tranny is also damaged. Damaging it further is of no consequences if its thin enough to warrant replacement.... or am i wrong ? (i'd use a scrapper, or a rivet-busting chisel in very good shape, or.... (?) )
  7. Thanks for the suggestion stronger800... but then is my only other alternative for freeing a stuck clutch is to split the tractor ?? And once split, can the clutch be saved anyways ?? I wonder if i can see/measure how much pad material there left from looking at it from the belly pump area... something to try tomorrow. I'm aware i'll not get that FarmAll going before next summer... but it would ne nice to know whats "waiting" me job wise... and find/buy the materials needed before hand. ( &... we're on a tight budget ! )
  8. I reckon that several guys asked me about the clutch. Truth is i couldn't, nor my friend helping me troubleshoot (and he's knowledgable with farmAlls..), notice anything wrong with the clutch by depressing it !! As one pushes on the pedal i can see the TO bearing slide till it contacts the clutch, then the person depressing the pedal feels the increased pressure as i see the fingers move some ways..... but ultimately the disk remains fused to the flywheel. Tomorrow, if the weather permits i'll try delicately inserting a thin blade (scrapper?) inbetween these two parts. Unless someone tells me otherwise.... Also; as i was removing the #2 rod cap yesterday, i notice a few drops of antifreeze (fluo yelowish-green color) drip. Haven't seen that (antifreeze) nowhere else.... any ideas ??
  9. when i first did removed the belly-pump (lLiftAll pump on that tractor) yesterday... i was kinda "hoping" to find a rock, or something similarly hard rubbing/jamming everything, but i see only a small sector of the flywheel, and nothing that could "seize" it !
  10. OK... the starter is removed, and while a helper rocks the engine by hand at the front fan pulley i'm looking at the clutch/flywheel assembly from underneath, thru the belly-pump opening. I can see the shaft going to the transmission (thus after the clutch) also rock back and forth. This being independent of the clutch pedal released or jammed tight in the "in"position with 2X4. ( The FarmAll is stationary (tires on the ground) because of its broken front left spindle. )
  11. Ok... after s'more finger freezing, this is what i did and discovered. I removed the belly pump... and at first sight all looked good in that flywheel/clutch/pump space. Then i went back to crankcase bottom, and removed the #2 crank rod cap. The engine was immediately much easier to turn, although only for a few degrees. Then, looking for an explanation.... i noticed that the clutch-flywheel are stuck together !! When i depress the clutch pedal, i can see the T/O bearing being pressed against the clutch "fingers"... but nothing operates; ie both parts remain firmly attached/fused together. I tapped it lightly, then medium hard... but with no encouraging results. Any special tips on this ?? (thks cbfarmall, not removing that front cover makes it easier on me. kal; the tractor entered the pond going at about 1/3 speed, in first gear) ( am i correct in assuming that that #2 rod is bent ?? )
  12. thanks guys.... i intended to work on it today, but just couldn't with all the to-dos ! Tomorrow i'll try again... first, i'll look thru the sparkplug hole for "something foreign" in the chamber (maybe even go in with a copper wire to see if i can snag something ??), and second; i'll remove the #2 rod cap and try to turn the engine to check if its any easier. I do have another question; about the only place i haven't opened is the gears cover on the front... is that "compartment" sealed from the crankcase ? There might be water there too... but its kinda hard to get to ! Maybe just drill a small hole on the bottom, and seal with silicone it in the future.... would that be a OK "solution" ??
  13. well.... Duntongw, thx for the help, and i'll stay in touch. Tomorrow i'll remove the "Lift-All" hydraulics unit (which i should anyway..) and maybe I can peek thru there !? Hey VacDaddyt; that's a possibility and i'll check that route in the morning light. I dunno about removing the head, and will read further about that route... The night may bring further wisdom. . .
  14. Duntongw; you say "if you push the clutch in and try to spin engine, that will tell you it is between the flywheel and the end of you crank, if it still does not turn over". What is there between the flywheel and the end of the crank that could cause that (so much resistance) ?? & thx again...
  15. forgot to point out; at the "hang point", piston #2 is at TDC... and i can still depress both valves on that cylinder.
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