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AngrySailor

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AngrySailor last won the day on January 4

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  1. Farther east than that. I’m located in PEI. I did sail mostly on the lakes and east coast of Canada and the US, been down to Chesapeake bay and up to Baltimore, made one Atlantic crossing back in ‘15 I think? Don’t hold back on my account, I can take it! so today I should try and do a little sandblasting for a fella. I have two smallish tractor mount snow blowers to touch up for him for resale. Also finally got a water pump for this CAT telehandler thing in I have to install soon too. Hopefully weld that shaft maybe tomorrow.
  2. Had to fix a friends round bale burning boiler today so no progress on the Detroitson. My girl and I are apart due to work and the ronAIDS so when she asked what I did the last couple days I was thrilled to tell her that I played with my shaft all day and it got 6 1/4” longer!
  3. Did you measure the crank for out of round? That -0.002” may have had room at the small (worn) part of the throw and been tight 90* to that. Also did you check the oil hole throw the throw was clear? On large ship engines we don’t necessarily “grind” a crank if it eats a bearing. These bearings are big as in 18” or larger. We will polish the crank with a contoured lapping block made for the purpose and install a new bearing of it measures good. They can be ground in place but you would have to cut the ship apart to remove the crank. We also have ~2mm clearance or ~0.078” so it can be in some ways more forgiving than a small engine however there is lots of crank flex hence the large clearance. I’m thinking you had a tight spot...
  4. This is the original clutch release fork. It just rubbed on a hardened washer on the Fordson clutch basket but also ran in the engine oil. Planing to make a sliding sleeve over the input shaft riding on bronze bushings with a Chevy throw out bearing against the clutch. I’m thinking I might dowel pin the sleeve to the clutch fork loosely to stop it rotating which would then allow me to drill an oil hole in the top between the bushings then attach a nice old brass drip oiler to where the old crankcase breather was and run a copper drip tube down to lube the bushings... not sure 100%, I’m winging it!
  5. Test fit done! Numbers worked out, the clutch spline is ~1/4” past the back of the disc splines and the pilot is at a nice depth! WOO HOO!!!
  6. Pushed together nice, used a little heat and a little convincing. Going to mock it up and double check my length as it was all taken by measurements. Much easier to fix before it’s welded...
  7. Yeah they should go together pretty easy with a little heat. I landed at right around 0.002” interference on those stubs. You posted while I was writing the last reply but ya, leaning towards TIG for reasons above also. We were also talking about using the hone oven. Heat to 600-650 with oxy/acetylene, weld, post heat then wrap in fibreglass cloth, place in the oven at 500 and reduce the heat over time. oh, that stub coupler is made from a transport trucks pinion shaft. Tough stuff to work with!
  8. ER70S which is mild steel filler is recommended for TIG welding. 7018 or 8018 seems common also due to being a low hydrogen electrode, haven’t used eutectic 680 before... I’m leaning towards TIG as my 7018 has NOT been stored properly as in a rod oven so moisture absorption is an issue which would introduce hydrogen to the weld... thanks and yes, the welds will need to be machined smooth not so much for balance but there will be a sliding sleeve surrounding the shaft running on bronze bushings I think is the plan. This will slide axially to operate the clutch release. Hopefully with proper post weld cooling the weld won’t be too hard. Worst case I have somewhere a crappy homemade tool post grinder that should put a decent finish on a hard shaft.
  9. Heading to the shop soon here, double check my measurements then press it together and prepare to weld. Gotta figure how I want to cool it... maybe fire blanket or set up a steel bucket with some sand. Looking at 600* preheat and slow cooling. Haven’t decided if I’m going to TIG it with mild steel filler which would be the process for TIG welding 4140 or stick weld it with 7018. It will require multiple passes regardless of which process I use also. Man was that some tough steel to machine!
  10. Eastern canukistan my rusty fren. Input shaft in the works today...
  11. Thanks! The truck is out and home. No damage but didn’t really care anyways as it’s on its last legs. Frame is soft real bad... might take it easy tonight then get after the input shaft serious tomorrow. Scored a nice shaft from a rig differential might work better... gonna be fun either way!
  12. So my truck has been here since Friday evening, spent the night in a friends barn and got drove home by snowmobile Saturday evening when the storm finally let up. Now the truck is plowed in pretty solid. Heading there now with a big tractor to recover it. Went off the road at maybe 5mph, real soft landing just couldn’t even see hardly past the hood. What a mess it’s been up here! That’s why no progress on the Detroitson. Hopefully this evening I’ll get to the shop and finish the input shaft...
  13. rings and gaskets arrived. Had to work on some other stuff last couple days. Hopefully got those jobs about finished up and should be gone this morning. I’m fighting with a Massey Harris pacer that needed carb, wiring and ignition work. It’s running but gotta clean the carb again and recheck float level. It runs wonky. Then I’ll be getting at the input shaft. I picked up a junkyard axle to splice the two together, hopefully I can cut and drill it with carbide... got the pacer running. Distributor advance was seized, distributor was seized in the block/holder and timing was out, bad condenser too. Runs ok now. Maybe tomorrow I can work on the Detroitson... rough few days for my own projects...
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