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  1. That’s not WD 40 but a 50%/50% mixture of diesel and used motor oil. We are next to the ocean and everything down here rusts quickly. I heard this mixture will help keep the rust from spreading since I don’t want to paint. Plus it makes her look sexy don’t you think? Still finishing up a few things but she is looking sharp and has officially done some field work (and some amphibious hotdogging). I took it out into our dove fields with the cultipacker to knock down millet prior to burning. I have yet to get her under a serious load but i’m anxiously awaiting an excuse. I did back her up a tree trying to fully release the steering clutches which still require brakes to make sharp turns. I can feel the plates releasing through the inspection covers but when operating the machine it only tracks left or right with the clutch pulled back. It won’t actually turn a corner. I have sprayed PBB in to the clutch’s to try and free things up. Still working that out and trying to avoid the dreaded clutch removal. I had a heck of a time getting the voltage regulator conversion done on the three brush gen and old 4 position light switch but it’s finally charging and the battery/lights/dash lights/ammeter are working properly. My radiator was a bad leaker and I had to use a magnifying glass to find all the small pinholes and patch them up with JB weld. I replaced the junk thermostat I originally bought with the right one and all is working well. Rad is not leaking at all now and the gauge sits right in the center of the green. Also had to grind out the old temp sensor. Used a chisel and hammer to literally dig it out of the head. Fortunately I didn’t mess anything up. Still having some trouble with the original distillate manifold sealing to the head but it’s not backfiring and the engine runs pretty smoothly. I have a new manifold, gaskets, pipe and muffler for it but prefer to keep it original to the extent possible. I am going to try the wax paper sealant trick and then reinstall the gaskets and see what happens (again). I also need to make a new metal gasket for between the top and bottom of the manifold as there is some blowout from that joint that I previously put sealant in. The tough job has been getting the fuel tank clean. It had a 4 inch solid dry crust of the worst smelling stuff in the bottom of it. It’s been a real process of soaking, scraping, “shopvacing” and repeating. Plus it is divided into three sections and it is really tough to get any tools in the side partitions. I thought I had it clean and put gas in it a few times. After an hour or so the gas was coming out the color of dirty oil with the consistency of honey. Gummed up the fuel pump/carb/sediment bowl a couple of times being overly optimistic. I’ve used about every solvent know to man but seems like soapy water was the most effective (ethanol gas dissolved a lot of the funk too). The UC has no issues to date. The T9 is amazing in the swamp and can go places most tractors can only dream of. It floats on top of mud that swallows rubber tires down to the axle. This thing climbs over downed trees and ditches that were previously off limits. I’m really impressed with what it can do considering it weighs over 10k lbs. As for my part let’s face it- I got a machine that was in pretty darn good working order. Most of my time has been spent cleaning up what was already there. Making and replacing gaskets, scrubbing and chiseling rock hard oil and dirt deposits off of every square inch and sourcing “bolt on” parts to make it whole again (belly hook, PTO etc). The point is that I haven’t had to do much heavy lifting because I lucked into a cherry. I can’t help but wonder if I would have caved under the weight of a much tougher more comprehensive project. I just have a lot of respect for the guys that go full tilt into a project and take it down to the floor and this is me tipping my hat to those guys (you know who you are). Here are a few pix of the progress and PS this machine was definitely Red from the factory. It looks like a dealer repainted it yellow because it’s a very good paint job and the decal work would have been first rate for back in the day.
  2. Mike it’s going good and thanks for asking. Finishing up installing the electrical system and all new fuel lines this week. I will post an in depth update once I have all the basic “rustoration’ completed. My ‘“to do” list keeps growing and I have a bunch more that needs to be done but man it’s looking good and running great. Stay tuned.
  3. Hope everyone is doing well out there and staying out of trouble. This has been a busy couple of months for me with not much time to work on the T9. Nothing but job and family stuff going on here in the deep south. I wanted to give an update of what's up with the crawler refurbish and as usual solicit input/guidance from people that have been in my shoes. Man, Is it normal to pour cash into a tractor that you KNOW won't be worth the sum of the parts when complete? Hopefully I am not alone in this and the final product will be worth all of the effort in a spiritual way (because it sure as @#LL wont be in a financial way haha). Admittedly in month #4 I am starting to have doubts, yet I remain committed. Enough moaning, gory details below C335-Despite my efforts the engine sounds terrible with some loud popping sounds from the exhaust, smoke rising from the push rods, smoke escaping around the manifold and black smoke out of the stack at low RPM. The starter, magneto, carburetor, governor and air intake are about the only things that seem to work like they should. It's been timed and re-timed, I've poured every solution known to man down around the rings and installed the manifold three or four times trying to get it to seat good. Poured kerosene in every orifice and drained it and refilled in with expensive fancy oil. I am pretty convinced I need an engine overhaul top and bottom. Compression test-All the cylinders registered 60-65lbs dry test with the plugs out and throttle open (not much change on a wet test). The absolute highest was #4 at almost 70 lbs wet. I couldn't find a gauge that went to 7/8th inch threads so had to rig up a tester with an old spark plug, a drill and some 5200 marine. In three T9 crawler books not one mentions the correct compression for the distillate head engine cylinders (only the compression ratio). I know this is a low compression engine but that seems really low. However the carb will about suck your hand through the intake if you cover it while the engine is running. Does anyone know what the correct compression should be on this engine? I am currently rigging up a leak down contraption where i can pressurize the chamber and see where it might be leaking from. Manifold-This thing is a hot mess no pun. I have a small horizontal crack (1.5 inches long) on the back side of the manifold facing the engine about an inch above the gaskets and its leaking pretty heavily (or it could be the exhaust escaping just below on the seal). The manifold won't seal with the head no matter how much I torque it down or adjust it. I was considering having someone V out the crack and braise it closed but that won't solve the sealing situation and might make it worse. A straight edge held to both mating surfaces shows they are basically straight (to the eye anyway). I read somewhere about putting loctite gasket maker on the manifold but wondered if that was doing more harm than good? I would have tried it on a lesser vehicle but that doesn't seem like the kind of temporary fix I want to do on this project. If I can't get the manifold to seal, it's hard to diagnose the other issues with this engine. Should I try new manifold studs and toss the mix and match studs that are on it? There are new manifolds available for around $300. Would it best to punt on the distillate manifold and go with a new one? Could this leaking manifold be the reason the engine runs like it does and otherwise is probably okay for a 20 hour a year tractor? Radiator-pulled off the radiator and cleaned it out as best i could, replaced all the hoses and the gaskets on the lower tank outlet elbow and inlet tank. Before replacing the hoses there was so much water leaking out it was hard to tell if the radiator was holding water. After I re-installed it with new hoses and gaskets it pretty obvious the core is leaking and pretty sure the lower tank gasket is leaking also. Man those tank bolts look so rusted I'm worried about getting into them. Seems like there will be more drilling and tapping in my future. All of those bolts for the top and bottom tank are soaking in penetrant now. Unless I can pull off a soldering miracle, I will have to get that core sent off to be repaired or replace it with a new core. Any word on what that might cost? Any suggestions on a good specialized radiator outfit that could help me out? Steering clutches-A few times I have driven the machine around and it will steer right with the clutch and left with the clutch+brake assist only. Pulling back both clutch handles bring the machine to a stop in forward gears. In reverse however pulling back both clutches does NOT stop it and it only turns with brake input. I can't say the clutches are stuck, but I also cant say they are working. Any insight on whats going on with those clutches? Can I get around pulling them considering I have my hands full on the T9 front half? I plan to try the "backing into a tree" trick next time it's running. Fuel Pump-The fuel pump seems to be making every effort to flood the carburetor. The engine actually runs better when I bypass the pump completely. Is this a normal delete for this engine? I have seen a few pictures of crawlers where it has been removed and covered with a plate. I feel like someone said that on this thread but can't find it now. Good stuff-I got new Harley Davidson replacement glass for the guide lamps that where broken and all are operational now. The Emblem guy (Jeff) hooked me up with a new badge for the front grill (Thanks Jeff), I found a replacement generator and cutout relay on ebay for $40 along with the correct belt (belt part # courtesy of a KoO post). I also scored a PTO shaft and cover to run the belt pulley when the time comes (Thanks to John and Debbie at General Gear and Machine). Recovered the old seat bottom and am fabricating a seat back. Bought a NOS 4 position light switch and will pull the trigger on a new wire harness once I get the kinks worked out of the radiator/engine. I cant imagine having all these issues and tons of undercarriage work. The UC on this one seems to really be sharp and no issues so far so thank goodness for that. Long story short-the engine probably needs a complete overhaul. With the prices I am seeing on bearings, sleeves and pistons it looks like it will cost at least $5K in parts and that won't cover the divorce haha. That's way more than I paid and combined it is way more than it's worth. I am sure a million guys before me have found themselves in this situation and struggled with what to do. I am pushing ahead and plan to get this thing right. Can anybody talk some sense into me? Next up-Dropping the oil pan and taking a look under the skirt. Should be interesting... I'll keep you posted on the progress.
  4. I finally have the carburetor issues worked out and it runs really nice. It shows strong oil pressure on the gauge. I filled up the radiator and let it heat up a couple of times. Re-torqued the head bolts to 165ft/lbs and then greased up all the fittings. I decided to throw the old girl in gear and next thing I knew I was driving it. Awesome feeling to have it running. I drove off and banked right and felt the engine go under load but no turn. Turns out the T9 turns left great but the other brake is weak/loose and that steering clutch is also locked up. I think I may be able to pop it loose once I tighten up the brakes but we will see. I might try the “back into a tree” trick also. Good news is the radiator doesn’t leak. I found a NOS top rad hose and it didn’t leak a drop but the other two hoses need replacing and leaked steadily. I don’t want to remove the radiator until I have a good reason so I was really glad it held water. I have flushed it out twice but the water keeps coming out Brown. I’m going to flush it a couple more times. Any suggestions on cleaning agent for the radiator? Is hard water really bad for the engine? Should I lug up 16 gallons of tap water next time? I reinstalled the air cleaner, bonnet, muffler and valve cover. I drove it over to a hose bib with hot water and gave it a good hot power washing (added a couple pix cause it finally looked all put together haha) Things left to complete: Drop oil pan and clean it out and new seal. flush out the radiator and replace hoses. Check water pump. Give the brakes and clutches some going over and check for blown seals. Replace all the transmission fluid. Full electrical with lights and generator. Re-cover the seat. Also starting to look at the belt pulley attachment and what that might take to get hooked up (that cleaned up nice and turned out to be red). I hope to have it in the field planting the June dove fields. Will start on the backend this weekend and see where I stand on that dreaded steering clutch. I’ll keep you posted
  5. https://youtu.be/jjV_G9uVxIo Fired it up!! Turns out the points adjusting screw inside the magneto was stripped out at the bottom of the hole and was popping loose as soon as the points moved. I was able to add a washer so the screw could grab threads further up the hole and that put the spark issue to bed for now. I took apart the carb for the fourth time due to the new fuel needle sticking. I ended up putting in the old seat with the new needle and the carb seems to work okay but needs more attention. I am trying to attach a video of the first engine start. I had several popping sounds before it cranked so I decided to throw my phone up and try and get it on video in the off chance it started. When it fired up I was caught off guard and didn’t disconnect the starter at first haha. Man that thing was blowing some thick black smoke and there was bits of debris and junk flying everywhere at first. To hear that engine has made all the hard work worth it. What an awesome sound! There appeared to be a bunch of smoke coming up from the pushrod holes. Any ideas on what that is? Is the black smoke from the exhaust due to a lean or rich condition? Thanks for all the input so far! Ill keep you posted.
  6. Hey all thanks for the comments. I got spark on all 4 plugs and even had some smoke coming out of the stack the other night trying to start it up. I think the smoke was from the copious amounts of carb-start I was reluctantly spraying in my over exuberance to hear that engine run. I got the feeling my timing was off and I couldn't get so much as a pop out of the engine. I had a weak stream of blackish grey smoke seeping out of the exhaust.There was good air suction going into the carb which seems like good news but much weaker flow coming from the exhaust. Maybe I have the exhaust valves opening when it should be the intakes? I probably need to buy a gauge and check the compression too. Anyway I hooked up a 12v battery to get the starter humming a little faster to see if that helped. The 6V battery was really turning slow but I guess with the low RPM rating on this engine that is normal? Anyway after a few minutes the carb started leaking again. Unfortunately I had to leave and get home to the family before my wife changed the locks. I am planning to go up Saturday and start over with the carburetor. Rust i didn't remove the valves but I cleaned the combustion chambers and had it looking pretty good on the surface (except for two small hairline cracks in the corners of the 2 and 3 chambers uggh). I am thinking of taking the head to a machinist to see about the cracks and have the valves, seats and guides addressed by a pro. Rust I saw in another T series post where it was mentioned sliding that thermostat in the opposite way than the arrow indicates. I did that and was glad because it didn't fit the other way. I ordered the part that claimed to be the replacement for 37634 D. There was no old one in the housing and all that was left was a brass frame from some long removed stat. I cut that out and the new one slid in there perfectly. I was pretty excited to have something (anything) completed despite the whole backwards part. Any thoughts on what to do since it won't go in correctly? Anyone know a good replacement number for the original stats? Suger and Tanker I have read your posts in full more than a few times. I sure do appreciate you looking in on this project. Side note: I was a little surprised to find a bunch of the new parts that I bought didn't really work that well. Two of my "new" spark plug wires were severed at the boot, the new float pin for my carb was sticking, the stat didn't fit except for upside down and the new condenser for the Mag was too short without some creative engineering. I guess they don't make 'em like the use to? Is that typical when buying parts off the big name sites? FYI-I have kept every single part that has come off the T9 including the old radiator hoses, starter brushes, broken studs, carburetor parts, plug and plug wires etc. I plan to go back later and re-install the old parts that still work in an attempt to keep this machine "as found". Based on what I have seen the new stuff is substandard. Hopefully I can get that engine started this weekend. I am anxious to get into the radiator and steering clutches and find out what I have in store. I'll keep you posted. Thanks FatCharlie
  7. Quick update: With Turkey hunting a planting in full swing I have not been able to spend as much time on the T9 as I would like considering I’m not really working right now. I couldn’t get the studs out despite a ton of heat, chisels, easy-outs etc. I ended up drilling them out and retapping and got the new studs in. The head is back on and torqued down!! I rebuilt the starter, carb and put in a new thermostat. Tried to fire it up but the carb was leaking out (stuck float?) and I wasn’t getting spark with my new wires and plugs. I am hoping to go up tonight and throw in a new condenser, points and distributor cap. Hopefully I can get some spark and fire it up soon. I’ll keep you posted. Hope everyone is safe and sound at that this thing will be over soon. Larry I got the lights and they are great. Hoping to find some new lens’ and make three good one out of the four I have. Thank you!
  8. Boots-This is what the hole looks like and I bought a couple of chisels for that. I haven’t tried it yet but I think I have enough of a lip to give it a go. Thanks
  9. MMI yes i have the right equipment now and the basics of how to use it. They don’t give those cutting torches away ($$$). Grabbed some scrap to practice on so I don’t burn a hole in the block next?. And yes I bought some safety gear. I took on this project with no mechanical background so i am learning techniques and acquiring tools as I go. T4 thanks It hasn’t really been determined whats going on with all the different parts. I will try and get the casting codes you mention and post them. I’m sure it was easier for the dealers to sell a nicely painted machine. This tag was under some dirt on the head. Does anyone know what it indicates?
  10. Thanks Larry. I truly appreciate you helping me out on the lights. Mike I have not had any luck with the first stud. I drilled a hole and applied pressure with a matching easy out. It doesn’t seem to be doing anything. I can see the top of the easy out twisting and I’m being gentle with it. I don’t think I could work up the nerve to put 160lbs of pressure on it. I picked up an acetylene torch today so I can put some real heat to it next time. Hoping the RustRed method brings me home. I may try the left hand bits on the second bolt depending on how the first plays out. Thank you for the input. Now I realize if I end up pulling the engine other problems like this may come up. I’m hoping to keep the unit whole as much as possible now. Oh and I want to save the money a machine shop would charge me. I’m in a tight spot with these broken studs. I’ll keep you posted.
  11. I bought acetylene this time but I can borrow a cutting torch. I was worried i might warp the head or do more damage if I put too much heat but not now. How cool does it need to get before I try the easy out? Should it cool completely? I will pull that pump and see whats going. Thanks man
  12. Thanks for all the feedback and good info Fat Dan. Yeah Rustred looking back I may have been a little aggressive. I sometimes leap before I look. With the amount of dirt in there around the pistons I think I made the right call. Having said that, if I could go back in time I would leave it closed up and stick a power washer in there and take my chances. I just got a crash course in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" haha. I drilled one of the bolts today. Went through four titanium coated bits and made a pretty nice 1/4 inch hole almost right down the center. I had the hole flanked by magnets to grab all the little bits. The stud wouldn't budge with the easy out and I couldn't get heat in the right spot due to my cheap propane torch and the remaining studs all in the way. My first priority was not to get anything stuck in the hole so I called it a day after an hour of overly cautious drilling. Went and bought a better torch and some cobalt bits on the way home. Also picked up a small metal chisel so hopefully I can coax them out (in pieces if necessary). I'll keep you posted. I found a rubber plug in the water pipe just above the water pump. It was intentionally blocked. Does that mean the pump is likely broken? Was he letting the water flow by spilling out of the upper radiator tank? I'm having trouble understanding how water would circulate well enough without the pump. Anyway I am going to pull the pump off and see if i can fix that too. Any comments appreciated. FatCharlie
  13. I found a slightly better picture of the ground off numbers. The engine reads 83_ _ DC with an A underneath. I circled the two head studs that broke off. They are pretty close to the surface so I may be able to get them out.
  14. Rust it’s not the serial number. I can’t find a serial number on the engine anywhere. Shouldn’t it be under #1 plug? I was talking about the raised number on the casting being ground off (first picture is the best one I have of that). The exhaust was not covered when they stored it because the bugs where all inside the manifold and the combustion chambers. The head studs are a serious issue and you’re right I may have to pull the engine if it comes to that. ExSW yes that is a really nice two door Laredo. It’s about as mint a car as you will ever see. It belongs to a friend. Any ideas on new studs? Can I have them made?
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